rigid forks for a trek 820?

[Fayd]

I have a mid-90's trek MTB that I'd like to convert to a commuter on the cheap. I already have the low resistance tires. So, I need rigid forks and fenders. Any suggestions on some reasonably priced possibilities?

update:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=36602526&postcount=21

 

[drteming]

Can you post a picture of the headset and the stem so I can point you in the right direction?

 

[IHateMyJob2004]

Rigid to cut weight?

 

[highland145]

Rigid to cut weight?

Probably to get rid of the suspension.

OP, I guess there's no lock out.

 

[Fayd]

Rigid to cut weight?

it's a commuter, on flat roads. no use/need for a suspension. more to the point, the suspension just makes pedaling less efficient.

 

[Fayd]

Can you post a picture of the headset and the stem so I can point you in the right direction?

Well, it's a trek 820. beyond that, i'm not sure what you want.

I took some pics that hopefully will be helpful.

http://imgur.com/a/ZhxUm

 

[drteming]

Looks like a older quill stem with a threaded fork. I'm guessing the diameter of the steering tube is 1", though it may be 1 1/8". Search ebay for threaded mountain bike forks and get the one with the correct diameter. You should be able to cut it down to fit your headtube as the NOS forks come with at least 100mm of threaded portion.

 

[Fayd]

Would this work for my application?

 

[Fayd]

Bump for a still valid question

 

[alkemyst]

Bump for a still valid question

There is a great chance that will work, but it's possible you have a 1" headset.

You have to measure it. If the diameter is 7/8" that's a 1" and if 1" that's the 1 1/8".

It's almost definitely threaded.

To others, many front suspension forks don't have a lock out. It's pretty inefficient for a commuter/road bike to have it that way.

 

[Fayd]

What part am i measuring?

 

[alkemyst]

What part am i measuring?

The headset tube. You could also measure your old fork tube.

Trek's came in 1" and 1 1/8" around that time. With your bike's serial number you could call Trek as well and they should be able to tell you.

 

[Fayd]

for an update to the thread:

looked like it would have worked for my application.

I just took the bike to a local trek dealer, and they ordered in a fork that looks exactly like that (with the dark blue paint job). Guess I wait a week till it arrives.

FWIW, I did contact trek's question form. automated reply said they'd get back to me.... last thursday. Haven't heard back yet.

 

[Fayd]

See this is why i hate "local X shop" that some assholes think we should support.

Said local trek dealer ordered me in the fork, said it'd take a week to get there. Took 2 weeks to arrive when they told me it'd take 1. okay, i can handle that...

I pull the existing fork, and test fit the new fork. problem. the steer tube on the new fork is around 10 fucking inches long, with paint the whole way. Steer tube on the old bike is around 4 inches long. This thing is absolutely fucking useless to me. It's going back tomorrow, and they've wasted my time.

 

[FleshLight]

See this is why i hate "local X shop" that some assholes think we should support.

Said local trek dealer ordered me in the fork, said it'd take a week to get there. Took 2 weeks to arrive when they told me it'd take 1. okay, i can handle that...

I pull the existing fork, and test fit the new fork. problem. the steer tube on the new fork is around 10 fucking inches long, with paint the whole way. Steer tube on the old bike is around 4 inches long. This thing is absolutely fucking useless to me. It's going back tomorrow, and they've wasted my time.

That is how brand new uncut forks come. You can cut the steerer tube using a pipe cutter or through a variety of other methods.

 

[Fayd]

That is how brand new uncut forks come. You can cut the steerer tube using a pipe cutter or through a variety of other methods.

that's true for THREADLESS forks.

not the case for threaded forks.

 

[FleshLight]

that's true for THREADLESS forks.

not the case for threaded forks.

You can cut threaded forks:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/fork-steering-column-length-and-sizing

 

[Fayd]

You can cut threaded forks:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/fork-steering-column-length-and-sizing

Alright, yes you can. I lack the tools to do so. When I took the fork back to the bike shop, they looked through their system to find one with a steer tube length that was somewhere near correct, and failed to do so. They offered to cut and thread the tube I purchased, for $50 more. I balked at the price, returned the fork, and left.

for $78 (total cost they would have had me out), i could have bought a threadless fork and stem. ridiculous.

On a side note, this is the sound the crank set makes when I just spin it. (no chain, no load, no pedals even) Pretty sure it's toast, right?

 

[FleshLight]

Check for play in the crank. If its properly torqued and the bearings are properly preloaded, it sounds like the bearings in the bottom bracket are toast. Swap out the BB for a newer one.

 

[Fayd]

Okay, went to a local bike co-op, and the guy helped me pull the crank off. The assembly that came in the bike is a bb-ct92, 68x116.

I can't seem to find this anywhere online for sale. What are my options?

 

[Fayd]

Looking online, it seems impossible to find a match for the stock ball bearing.

looking at my options, I can probably just buy a new front derailleur. however, when I took a close look at my crank set, I noticed 2 broken teeth on the large gear, along with some deformation on the middle gear. this was at regular intervals, so I'm pretty sure it's made this way. however, in the lands of every tooth the metal is bowed inwards some. Is it worth it to replace the crankset as well?