Recommend a rack mounted air conditioning for server closet

Lil'John

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Dec 28, 2013
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Title basically states it but for some clarification.

I'm going to have a "small" server/network closet that is going to have the following on a rack(25U):
2x Xeon V3 server (4U I believe)
File server (Haswell 2U)
Power/surge protector (1U)
Unknown UPS(see below but 2U + 2U)
Switch (1U)
POE injector (1U)

Rack specifically is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6GNLQE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was considering the following rack USP plus battery extension:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005PAIEL...olid=3K7M0MM7449CS&coliid=I6TS03YTC883G&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170ZTR...UTF8&colid=3K7M0MM7449CS&coliid=IDUQBNBF4QXUE

Is the Tripp worth while?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106AO05...lid=3K7M0MM7449CS&coliid=I128K22IMS0493&psc=1

The closet itself will be ~22" wide and about 48" deep and about 60" tall. Basically, the height and width will be close on the rack itself while the depth should provide ~12" behind.
 

master_shake_

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May 22, 2012
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Lil'John

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I'm not sure if I'd trust that rack to be moved around with that much weight in it.
+ not quoting rest of weight related conversation.

I'm not sure I will end up with "THAT" much weight in the rack. But to throw some numbers out:
ups + battery = 60lbs
AC = 80lbs
2U "big" server = 50lbs case and 2x power (call it 70lbs)
switch = 5lbs
1U smaller server = unknown but it will be under 70lbs
power strips (2x 5lbs each)

So my rough maths says right at an even 300lbs minus weight of rack. All the heavy items will be toward the bottom of the rack so it won't be top heavy :)

I might be more worried about "point load" on the floor.

what worries me more is his measurements for his closet.

my rack from side to side is about 2 feet.

his closet is 22 inches.

Good catch... the good news is the closet isn't created yet ;) My 22" guestimate was from 19" rack width plus the caster pads being about 2" outside the edge of the rack. I will definitely be providing 1" clearance beyond the caster pads.
 

master_shake_

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May 22, 2012
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+ not quoting rest of weight related conversation.

I'm not sure I will end up with "THAT" much weight in the rack. But to throw some numbers out:
ups + battery = 60lbs
AC = 80lbs
2U "big" server = 50lbs case and 2x power (call it 70lbs)
switch = 5lbs
1U smaller server = unknown but it will be under 70lbs
power strips (2x 5lbs each)

So my rough maths says right at an even 300lbs minus weight of rack. All the heavy items will be toward the bottom of the rack so it won't be top heavy :)

I might be more worried about "point load" on the floor.



Good catch... the good news is the closet isn't created yet ;) My 22" guestimate was from 19" rack width plus the caster pads being about 2" outside the edge of the rack. I will definitely be providing 1" clearance beyond the caster pads.

don't forget to take in to account cable management hooks.
 
Feb 25, 2011
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The closet itself will be ~22" wide and about 48" deep and about 60" tall. Basically, the height and width will be close on the rack itself while the depth should provide ~12" behind.

That isn't enough room for airflow around the rack, particularly behind - unless you cut some vents and exhaust the space out to some other room. Which you'll have to do for the exhaust from the A/C unit anyway.
 
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Lil'John

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You're hard pressed to go wrong with APC UPS but yes, you'll be paying a premium.

I don't mind the premium. Thanks for the heads up on the UPS.

That isn't enough room for airflow around the rack, particularly behind - unless you cut some vents and exhaust the space out to some other room. Which you'll have to do for the exhaust from the A/C unit anyway.

The way the closet is "designed" will provide me about 1 foot behind the rack. In essence, the network closet is getting bumped against the angle wall of an A-frame style house(something like this but angled sealing is MUCH lower):
fe131fe3954676a21fe1fb705424ffa4.jpg


Using the picture above, the rack top bumps the sealing before it hits the vertical wall. So there will be a gap of about 8"-12" from rack to vertical wall. So plenty of space around for airflow. The AC will get vented out the back though the wall.
 

XavierMace

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I'm running an SMX2200 with an ERM. Gives me about 2.5 hours run time under normal load. I could add another battery to get another 2 hours out of it.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-SMX2200R...d=1477019128&sr=8-1&keywords=apc+smx2200&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/2DX4705-SMX1...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J1SPDYN5ZXRBQZZMKKGF

Like I said, you're paying a premium, but there's a reason they dominate market. I'd highly recommend paying the extra for the network management card so you can remotely manage it and setup Powerchute so it an do network shutdowns of your machines as needed.
 

Lil'John

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Hmm... that is a very nice setup.

Any opinion on the cooling side?

I will end up plumping an exterior vent for the AC/air setup.
 

XavierMace

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I've never run my racks in a location where they needed dedicated cooling. I've looked at the Tripplite rackmount which seems awesome in theory but as you saw reviews leave a lot to be desired.
 
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Lil'John

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I've never run my racks in a location where they needed dedicated cooling. I've looked at the Tripplite rackmount which seems awesome in theory but as you saw reviews leave a lot to be desired.

I wouldn't say the dedicated cooling would be required exactly. It is more of a severe want to keep noise down in my office ;)

On the Tripplite rackmount, the reviews there were mildly concerning. It was the reviews on their UPSs that concerned me... with all the reviews, it makes me think the company in general has quality issues which I'm not in the mood to deal with.
 

aigomorla

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meh the portable AC is not the most efficient thing to be used.
In order of efficiency

Split AC -> Window mounted = Wall mounted -> portable.

The advantages of having a AC controlled Server room is straight up control of humidity.
That means you wont get anything rusting inside the server vs a conventional Fan on the window one where it pulls humidity into the room.

Also the room will be virtually dust free, as its recycling the air inside the room, and not pulling the dust infested air from outside.

The Con's is that your going to be wasting a LOT of energy on powering the AC, so if your going to do it right, i would go with the most efficient form of AC even tho it will cost you, as the cost in the long run will outweigh the short.

On your listing you would probably need ~ 5000-7500 btu unit, however the smallest ive seen split AC's start at is 9000 btu which would be overkill. It would probably be enough to cool your entire attic.
They start anywhere from 700-1000 dollars without installation, you would need a HVAC certified tech to come install it, as this is not something you would want to attempt on a DYO scenario.

A window AC can be used, however you stated noise was a issue, and well a Split AC moves the compressor to another location, so most of the noise is isolated somewhere else vs a window AC or a Portable.

The cheapest solution is a window AC... you just need to cut a hole in your wall large enough for the window AC to sit.

The worst solution yet easiest is the portal.
As a rule of thumb in portable, you would need to double the BTU to get the same amount of cooling a window AC does, and ~2.5x the BTU a split AC will do....

in short a 9000BTU Split AC => 15000 Window => 22500 Portable.
This is what my HVAC technician said i should approx numbers when looking at AC units.

Hence why i suggest you go split AC from the start.
 
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Lil'John

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why not just buy a standup portable ac unit and pipe it outside?

meh the portable AC is not the most efficient thing to be used.
In order of efficiency

Split AC -> Window mounted = Wall mounted -> portable.

<snip a lot of good info>

The picture above is VERY close to what I'm dealing with. I literally have no space for portable AC unit so that doesn't fly.

A window/wall mount does not work for me at all. I may be living up in "them thar hills" with the hill billies but will make my house look ghetto. So no go there.

I haven't looked into the split AC. Do you have a link to what you have in mind?
 

aigomorla

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https://samsunghvac.com/ductless.php

Samsung makes great units which have a very high SEER raiting.
You want a high SEER, and not a low one.
Personally i will not accept a SEER rating lower then 20.

I suggest you do some other research.
I own a few split AC systems and by far they are superior to all other forms of AC for single room cooling.

There are also a lot of videos on Youtube.
They also go by the name ductless air conditioning.

You should also get in contact with HVAC for a estimate on installation.
Ive seen them charge anywhere from 250-750 dollars for just the installation.
The 250 side if you purchase the unit from them, and 750 side if you purchase the unit separately and have them install, so it maybe in your best option to get it from the HVAC technician directly as you will save a lot more on installation.

Just so other readers know, i sitll think its a bit overkill for you to put in a 9000btu split just to cool those PC's.

That 9000btu split can easily cool the entire attic, but you wont get the efficiency in any other form of AC.
 
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iwajabitw

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Portable AC with Dehu built in. I use them for clients when I am installing a new system for them. Just have to make sure the exhaust is tight to prevent the condenser heat from leaking into the room.
 
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Aikouka

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When I moved everything to my rack (the same one that you have), I ended up having an increase in HDD temperature. To be honest, it really wasn't that bad as none of them were over 40C, but I wanted them at their previous level. All it took was cutting a hole in the door (with an oscillating tool) and installing one of these home theater fans as an exhaust. (They even make one with a thermostat.) After that, my temperatures went back to normal, and that's with the fans on low.

One thing to consider is to try to give yourself more space. I don't like pulling out my rack without turning off the server (or at least its HDDs), so if I can, I try to work without pulling out the rack. I installed a few pod lights on the shelf above the rack in the closet, which work great. I also put a mirror in the back so I can see the rear I/O.
 
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Lil'John

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Portable AC with Dehu built in. <snip good info>

Do you have an example of one you use?

When I moved everything to my rack (the same one that you have), I ended up having an increase in HDD temperature. To be honest, it really wasn't that bad as none of them were over 40C, but I wanted them at their previous level. All it took was cutting a hole in the door (with an oscillating tool) and installing one of these home theater fans as an exhaust. (They even make one with a thermostat.) After that, my temperatures went back to normal, and that's with the fans on low.

I was hoping to enclose the network equipment to keep the noise down in the "office". While it is an office/craft room, it is my extra backup guest bedroom so blasting computer equipment for guests isn't too cool ;)

I didn't consider the fan separate but I'm also trying to not blow more hot air directly into the room. Install won't be too big of an issue... I'm fairly handy(too many years in construction ;) )

One thing to consider is to try to give yourself more space. <snip great info>

I could get my closet longer but there is no way to get it wider. I thought 4 foot long was "plenty" over sized. There is about a foot "pocket" on one side due to the top of the rack hitting the ceiling before the base hits the wall. The outside edge of the closet is a fixed location due to room door location. I don't want to take the time or pay someone to move it over ;)