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reciprocating saw for cutting plywood?

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Protip - when using a circular saw have the finished side "down". This minimizes chipping as the teeth make their way through. If you don't have a finished side then don't worry about it.
 
OP
If you think a reciprocating saw is appropriate for getting straight cuts on plywood sheeting, sell your power tools and buy ready made shelves.
 
Humpy said:
A sawzall would work fine for cutting a straight line with a guide clamped on. Go slow, keep the shoe tight to the guide, and clean it up with a sanding block. A hand saw would also work. A table saw or skilsaw would be faster and easier but would not necessarily lead to better results.
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FAIL.

The statement above makes it seem like you've never actually used a Sawzall or circular saw before :hmm:
 
Humpy said:
A sawzall would work fine for cutting a straight line with a guide clamped on. Go slow, keep the shoe tight to the guide, and clean it up with a sanding block. A hand saw would also work. A table saw or skilsaw would be faster and easier but would not necessarily lead to better results.
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Disagree. Yes you can do it, but it just simply isn't the right tool for the job. Small, reciprocating blades (sawzaw or jig) just aren't meant to make long precise rips. I'm good enough freehanding with a circular saw now that I almost never use the table saw.
 
You definitely need a circular saw for that job.
That is what they were designed for (cutting sheet wood).

That being said, a reciprocating saw is probably the most versatile and most used cutting power tool. I use mine all the time, of course I am renovating my house right now.
 
edro said:
You definitely need a circular saw for that job.
That is what they were designed for (cutting sheet wood).

That being said, a reciprocating saw is probably the most versatile and most used cutting power tool. I use mine all the time, of course I am renovating my house right now.
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recip saw on plywood is a bad idea.
 
vi edit said:
Disagree. Yes you can do it, but it just simply isn't the right tool for the job. Small, reciprocating blades (sawzaw or jig) just aren't meant to make long precise rips. I'm good enough freehanding with a circular saw now that I almost never use the table saw.
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I agree and did not state that it would be the right choice out of all available tools. I would use a Laguna TSS because I have one. My point was that if a sawzall or hand saw (both are reciprocating) was the only available, or most economical tool, the cut could be made. It would require an additional step or two is all.
 
1. Write down the dimensons of your piece(s)
2. Go to Homedepot and put 4x8 sheet(s) on dolley
3. Roll it over to the vertical cut table, push button for associate
4. Tell associate the dimensions you want cut
5. Take to checkout and pay
6. Repeat as many times as necessary
 
Humpy said:
I agree and did not state that it would be the right choice out of all available tools. I would use a Laguna TSS because I have one. My point was that if a sawzall or hand saw (both are reciprocating) was the only available, or most economical tool, the cut could be made. It would require an additional step or two is all.
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Agreed. But not only would you want to keep the shoe tight against a clamped guide, but you'd also want to keep the blade angled back as much as possible to minimize wandering. I've got a lot of tools, and would never waste my time "ripping" a sheet of plywood with a reciprocating saw, preferring to use a circular saw instead. And, for most people, a table saw isn't really the best solution because of the space it would require: 16 feet. I use quotation marks around "ripping" because that's not really what you're doing. When you rip a board, you're cutting in the direction of the grain, not across the grain. However, plywood is multiple layers that alternate in orientation. Thus, you're both ripping and cross-cutting at the same time.

However, I'd bet that I could freehand "rip" a sheet of plywood better with a Sawzall than many of the people who posted in this thread could rip with a circular saw (freehand.) Nonetheless, the results in either case wouldn't be good enough (in my opinion) for a visible shelf.


And, it hasn't been said yet, but the best way to do this is to either rip it with a table saw, or circular saw, leaving about 1/16" extra on there, then go down the edge with a router & special bit made for this purpose; the router attached to a guide to ensure a straight cut.
 
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Get a circular saw with a nice fine tooth blade intended for plywood. If you use the blade it comes with, that is intended for ripping and cutting wood like 2 x 4's .. It will leave a very rough cut and may cause chip out on plywood. Hence the need for a blade with a lot of teeth, know as a finish blade. Plywood blades usually have a minimum of 100 teeth.

http://www.lowes.com/cd_Circular+Saw...+BG_449686513_

bg_CircularSawBladeBG_plywood.jpg
 
Search Craigslist for powertools. Good corded versions last forever.
I got a Dewalt reciprocating saw on Craigslist, brand new, for $40.
You can get a cheap circular saw for the same price.
 
DrPizza said:
Agreed. But not only would you want to keep the shoe tight against a clamped guide, but you'd also want to keep the blade angled back as much as possible to minimize wandering. I've got a lot of tools, and would never waste my time "ripping" a sheet of plywood with a reciprocating saw, preferring to use a circular saw instead. And, for most people, a table saw isn't really the best solution because of the space it would require: 16 feet. I use quotation marks around "ripping" because that's not really what you're doing. When you rip a board, you're cutting in the direction of the grain, not across the grain. However, plywood is multiple layers that alternate in orientation. Thus, you're both ripping and cross-cutting at the same time.

However, I'd bet that I could freehand "rip" a sheet of plywood better with a Sawzall than many of the people who posted in this thread could rip with a circular saw (freehand.) Nonetheless, the results in either case wouldn't be good enough (in my opinion) for a visible shelf.


And, it hasn't been said yet, but the best way to do this is to either rip it with a table saw, or circular saw, leaving about 1/16" extra on there, then go down the edge with a router & special bit made for this purpose; the router attached to a guide to ensure a straight cut.
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Probably better than me .... I can't cut freehand worth a damn, I ALWAYS clamp a straightedge, otherwise I drift around like crazy
 
be a man and handsaw that bitch.

In all seriousness, I find even my cheap table saw invaluable, but if space and money is a concern, you can't go wrong with a circular saw either.
 
GuitarDaddy said:
1. Write down the dimensons of your piece(s)
2. Go to Homedepot and put 4x8 sheet(s) on dolley
3. Roll it over to the vertical cut table, push button for associate
4. Tell associate the dimensions you want cut
5. Take to checkout and pay
6. Repeat as many times as necessary
Click to expand...

Actually, this is the best answer bar FAR if the OP doesn't do a lot of wood work (which Im guessing he does not)
 
Circular saws cut pretty damn straight without an edge.
The blade sandwiched in the cut prevents most of the wandering.
It's actually hard to cut an arc with a circular saw.

I suggest you simply drill 1000 holes in a straight line, then use wire cutters to snip out any material left behind. It will leave a perfect edge.
 
also, don't forget to take into account the width of the saw blade... normally 1/8"... depending upon how you line up, it's going to change how far the straight edge is from the cut.
 
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