Questions to Ask When Buying Used [Miata]...

[RavenSEAL]

So within the next week or two, i'm gonna start going around Tampa looking a different Miatas up for sale. My budget is going to be around 5K (<---Poor college student).

So, what should be the first things to get our of the way? (Besides "Show me the car fax?")

 

[JulesMaximus]

I'd just look for one that has no leaks, runs well, appears to be in good condition, has complete maintenance records, and little or no modifications.

 

[Imported]

http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html

 

[RavenSEAL]

http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html

Awesome find!

 

[RavenSEAL]

So i've begun looking hard core and there is a jump margin with Miatas.

From 91-2003, they run for about 5-7K.

From 2006-2010, they run 10-16K.

Does anyone think the jump is worth it in the long run?

 

[HAL9000]

So i've begun looking hard core and there is a jump margin with Miatas.

From 91-2003, they run for about 5-7K.

From 2006-2010, they run 10-16K.

Does anyone think the jump is worth it in the long run?

Mazda really kicked their reliability up a notch in the last 10 years, so if it were me I'd be looking for a later one.

 

[thedarkwolf]

Miatas are reliable as hell so I don't think that matters.

Look for rust in the rockers in front of the rear wheels.
Don't be surprised if the lifters are noisy, pretty normal.

Just find one in good shape in the body style you like.

 

[yhelothar]

I've seen a lot of older ones(95 or older) that eats oil pretty bad. Look at the bumper above the exhaust to see if it's darkened.

 

[Throckmorton]

So i've begun looking hard core and there is a jump margin with Miatas.

From 91-2003, they run for about 5-7K.

From 2006-2010, they run 10-16K.

Does anyone think the jump is worth it in the long run?

If you can afford a newer NC 2006+ one, yes. I think it looks much better and it's safer.

 

[JCH13]

Miatas are reliable as hell so I don't think that matters.

Look for rust in the rockers in front of the rear wheels.
Don't be surprised if the lifters are noisy, pretty normal.

Just find one in good shape in the body style you like.

This.

Check the battery to make sure its vent hoses are still connected.

Check the frame rails for any damage, some people thing they would make a great jacking point, only to find out that the frame rails crumple if you try to lift from them.

I'd bet that there is someone on Miata.net who'd go with you to check out a potential purchase and give you a more experienced, first-hand perspective in exchange for a beer. I know I would if you were shopping around the NH area.

So i've begun looking hard core and there is a jump margin with Miatas.

From 91-2003, they run for about 5-7K.

From 2006-2010, they run 10-16K.

Does anyone think the jump is worth it in the long run?

The NA Miatas, 1990-1997, are considered the best "Miata" whereas the NB 1999-2005 and NC 2006-2011+ are considered progressively better cars while (perhaps) losing a little bit of the spirit that makes a Miata so much fun. If you can live with the basic NA features, I think that's what you should get.

With a $5k budget I'd (personally) be looking for a good condition, rarer NA, like a 1991 BRG, 1994-1997 M edition, a Sunburst Yellow, or a 1993 Limited Edition awe.

I would steer clear of the 1990 to early-1991 short nose crank cars unless you're confident in your mechanical abilities.

 

[jlee]

This.

Check the battery to make sure its vent hoses are still connected.

Check the frame rails for any damage, some people thing they would make a great jacking point, only to find out that the frame rails crumple if you try to lift from them.

I'd bet that there is someone on Miata.net who'd go with you to check out a potential purchase and give you a more experienced, first-hand perspective in exchange for a beer. I know I would if you were shopping around the NH area.



The NA Miatas, 1990-1997, are considered the best "Miata" whereas the NB 1999-2005 and NC 2006-2011+ are considered progressively better cars while (perhaps) losing a little bit of the spirit that makes a Miata so much fun. If you can live with the basic NA features, I think that's what you should get.

With a $5k budget I'd (personally) be looking for a good condition, rarer NA, like a 1991 BRG, 1994-1997 M edition, a Sunburst Yellow, or a 1993 Limited Edition awe.

I would steer clear of the 1990 to early-1991 short nose crank cars unless you're confident in your mechanical abilities.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/2773678625.html
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/2776229418.html

Here are a couple in FL:
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/2758735296.html
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/cto/2776140446.html

 

[MotF Bane]

I'd vote for the NB, looks better than the NA IMO, and I think it has the biggest engine bay too.

 

[iamwiz82]

I'd vote for the NB, looks better than the NA IMO, and I think it has the biggest engine bay too.

NC is 2.0, NB is 1.8, NA is 1.6 for early models and 1.8 for later.

 

[GTaudiophile]

In 2001, I paid $7000 for a 1992 "NA" Miata with only 8K miles on the ODO and in "like new" condition. It now has around 60K miles on the ODO in 2012. Before I found it, it was the kind of car that a grandpa bought but rarely drove and just kept it in the garage. I used it as my daily driver from 2001-2005 when I bought a Mazda3. It now sits in my dad's garage in Georgia; he puts maybe a 100 or so miles on it a year to keep it running. Since I've owned it, the oil has been changed every 3k miles.

I sadly did hit the side of my garage with it once so the front passenger quarter panel has a few dents; most of the car could also benefit from a paint job.

Since 2001, it has needed obvious things like a new battery, tires, wipers, etc. The zipper on the plastic top has more or less failed but that is not a problem since it is a "fair weather" car only now.

In regards to more expensive problems, the air bag sensor needed replacing at about $300. I think this was in 2003 or so. I believe both the master and slave clutch cylinders have also needed replacing. With proper equipment, this can be done yourself. I think this happened in 2004 or 2005. I think I also serviced the brake pads on my own once. The car also seemingly needs a front and rear-end alignment at least once every year or so for best results. That and keeping the tires properly inflated with a full tank of gas and the car just purrs.

What few electronics exist like the A/C system have worked fine and have never needed service. And my car might have a unique issue in that something rattles/vibrates in the engine around 55 mph but disappears within a few mph either way of 55.

Otherwise, it just always puts a smile on my face like no other car I've driven.

Since I do keep the top down all the time, I did buy a tonneau cover for it. Looks like this one but in black leather:

 

[MotF Bane]

NC is 2.0, NB is 1.8, NA is 1.6 for early models and 1.8 for later.

Engine bay, not engine. :awe:

 

[Capt Caveman]

Poor college student? Sure.

 

[JCH13]

I'd vote for the NB, looks better than the NA IMO, and I think it has the biggest engine bay too.

The NA and NB are very nearly the same chassis, just with different skin. I'd be surprised if the NB engine bay was bigger, but you may know something I don't.

 

[MotF Bane]

The NA and NB are very nearly the same chassis, just with different skin. I'd be surprised if the NB engine bay was bigger, but you may know something I don't.

Flyin' Miata: "Our kits will allow any 1990-05 Miata to be turned into a V8. We prefer the 1999-05 cars because of their electronic speedometer, stiffer chassis and slightly roomier engine bay.
The 2006 and later cars can't be converted - yet. We're working on it.
category: General | updated 2010-03-26"

:awe:

 

[iamwiz82]

Engine bay, not engine. :awe:

Reading too quickly. :$

 

[JCH13]

Flyin' Miata: "Our kits will allow any 1990-05 Miata to be turned into a V8. We prefer the 1999-05 cars because of their electronic speedometer, stiffer chassis and slightly roomier engine bay.
The 2006 and later cars can't be converted - yet. We're working on it.
category: General | updated 2010-03-26"

:awe:

:thumbsup: I'd believe it's slightly roomier, especially if FM says so.

 

[MotF Bane]

:thumbsup: I'd believe it's slightly roomier, especially if FM says so.

I've been drooling over their LS3 Miatas for the past couple days, and plotting my bank robbery to fund such an endeavor.

 

[RavenSEAL]

Damn, this thing is niceeee D:

http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/2777875195.html

Lots of miles though

 

[JCH13]

Damn, this thing is niceeee D:

http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/2777875195.html

Lots of miles though

Bitch please. My first Miata had 210k miles, clean oil changes, started and ran like a champ. My current Miata has 170k miles, many of the recent ones under severe turbocharger-induced abuse including a couple over-heats and some racing. Still runs and drives well. 122k is a freakin' baby, 200-250k miles on a stock motor seems to be routine.

 

[Imported]

I own a 1999.. but if I were to do it all over, I'd probably go with a 2001.. Looks a little better IMO, has the better header, and is a bit more reliable (from what I've heard).

However, had I been able to find a 1994 or 1995 R edition like I originally wanted at a decent price, I would have jumped on that.

 

[RavenSEAL]

Bitch please. My first Miata had 210k miles, clean oil changes, started and ran like a champ. My current Miata has 170k miles, many of the recent ones under severe turbocharger-induced abuse including a couple over-heats and some racing. Still runs and drives well. 122k is a freakin' baby, 200-250k miles on a stock motor seems to be routine.

Sounds good, thanks for letting me know!