Questions about speakers

[Anubis]

$9,348.63 in 2011, jease. What speakers do you own? Maybe one day when im a working adult i can afford something like that.

lol yea it can get very silly very quickly


Solo1s post is spot on. I have teh Bic F12 and its great for what it is and what it costs (i got it as a hold over as my old polk sub died and i needed something for the intereum) but it is nothing compaired to the last 3 he listed. Good for a small room but there are many better. mine will be moved to my computers 2.1 setup when i get around to purchasing a new HT sub

 

[sdifox]

lol yea it can get very silly very quickly


Solo1s post is spot on. I have teh Bic F12 and its great for what it is and what it costs (i got it as a hold over as my old polk sub died and i needed something for the intereum) but it is nothing compaired to the last 3 he listed. Good for a small room but there are many better. mine will be moved to my computers 2.1 setup when i get around to purchasing a new HT sub

Someday, I want to do this

http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

 

[Anubis]

Someday, I want to do this

http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

lol ive seen that before

 

[ManBearPig]

You will notice a difference between the HTiB sub and pretty much any half decent sub. There is nothing wrong with that sub, HSU makes great subs. But when it comes to budget subs I think you would be hard pressed to hear/feel a difference between the Bic F12 and the STF-2.

BIC F12:
150w continuous
12" Driver, Ported
Down to 25hz
42lbs
$185 shipped

HSU STF-2:
200w continuous
10" Driver, Ported
Down to 25hz
44lbs
$392 shipped

For comparisson -

HSU VTF-2 mk3:
250w
12" Driver, Ported
Down to 18hz
80lbs
$572 shipped

Epik Legend:
300w
Dual 12" Drivers, Sealed
Down to 16hz
80lbs
$569 shipped

Elemental Designs(eD) A3-250:
300w
10" Driver, Ported
Down to 18hz
70lbs
$455 shipped

Is the HSU STF-2 a better sub than the BIC F12, more than likely yes. Is it worth almost double the price, not in my opinion. Any of the "For Comparison" models would be a much more worth while investment in the long run and all of them them are better HT subs than the STF-2/BIC F12.

Again this is just my opinion based on stuff I have seen on various forums and review sites over the years.

Wow, thanks! I had no idea shipping was $43 for that sub, yikes. I guess if i'm going to pay $400 anyway i might as well get something a bit better, you're right.

 

[sdifox]

lol ive seen that before

I paste that here a lot.

 

[ManBearPig]

I'm going to go fucking crazy until I get a new sub! The surrounds i don't care about as much though.

 

[ManBearPig]

Soo...when i hook up my banana plugs, do i just remove the binding posts (whatever theyre called, the things that screw in so the copper makes contacts with the threading) and then insert the plug?

 

[SithSolo1]

I assume you are asking about inserting the banana clip into the speaker. You just plug it in to the end of the binding post, no need to remove the cap (the part that screws on) you are describing.

 

[ManBearPig]

I assume you are asking about inserting the banana clip into the speaker. You just plug it in to the end of the binding post, no need to remove the cap (the part that screws on) you are describing.

Oh, haha, its been so long since ive even seen the back of the receiver that i dont remember its not solid and has a hole in it. Thanks, i kinda panicked that it wouldnt work lol.

 

[Aikouka]

I've heard good things about the BIC F12 for movies, but I also heard that it's supposedly not as good for music? I only bought my Polk sub because I got a great deal on it, and it does work rather well.

Oh, and you know you want to replace that Onkyo AVR with a nice Denon one that I'm going to be selling soon. :whiste:

I assume you are asking about inserting the banana clip into the speaker. You just plug it in to the end of the binding post, no need to remove the cap (the part that screws on) you are describing.

It's probably worth mentioning that if the Series II Polk Monitors are anything like the original ones, you will need to remove the plastic cap once. The cap has an insert that covers the hole used for the plugs. So you need to remove the cap, take the insert out and put the cap back on.

 

[ManBearPig]

I've heard good things about the BIC F12 for movies, but I also heard that it's supposedly not as good for music? I only bought my Polk sub because I got a great deal on it, and it does work rather well.

Oh, and you know you want to replace that Onkyo AVR with a nice Denon one that I'm going to be selling soon. :whiste:



It's probably worth mentioning that if the Series II Polk Monitors are anything like the original ones, you will need to remove the plastic cap once. The cap has an insert that covers the hole used for the plugs. So you need to remove the cap, take the insert out and put the cap back on.

Wait, you guys meant speakers, i meant receiver. Sure i'll take that Denon you're gonna wanna give away for free! What model is it? I definitely wanna replace this AVR though! What polk sub do you have?

Ive heard good things about both the bic and the polk, but ive also heard theyre not that great. if im gonna be spending $200 i might as well toss in another $150 or so and get something kind of nice. i mean, the whole point of the sub is to go in to the low range...neither of those subs do that too well...not that $400 ones are great either, but at least its better than those.

 

[Aikouka]

Wait, you guys meant speakers, i meant receiver. Sure i'll take that Denon you're gonna wanna give away for free! What model is it? I definitely wanna replace this AVR though! What polk sub do you have?

I'd like to make a little bit off of it to offset the cost of the 2112.

It's a Denon AVR-1910. I need one that actually supports 3D. Although, what grinds my gears is that for the most part, HDMI 1.3 is fairly 3D compliant. The Top-Bottom, Side-by-Side and Checkerboard transmission formats all fit in the standard 720p/1080p spec since they use a 1080p picture typically split in some fashion to contain both the content for both eyes. Blu-Ray's Frame Packing doesn't completely work though. The problem is that Frame Packing is larger (1920x2180 I believe) as it contains two 1080p frames with a small break in between. Because of the larger video frame, the AVR cannot find the audio stream. This can be solved with using an optical cable to transmit the audio, which means you don't get lossless audio (DTS-HD Master, Dolby TrueHD).

The reason why it doesn't work is that it won't transfer an EDID that says, "hey, I support 3D!" :\

There's my 3D rant of the day.

Ive heard good things about both the bic and the polk, but ive also heard theyre not that great. if im gonna be spending $200 i might as well toss in another $150 or so and get something kind of nice. i mean, the whole point of the sub is to go in to the low range...neither of those subs do that too well...not that $400 ones are great either, but at least its better than those.

This is the sub that I have:
http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/dsw/index.php?s=dswpro600

It's alright overall. It's not really worth the MSRP though. I do use a cheaper Polk sub (Polk PSW10) upstairs, but that's mostly because I wanted a small sub with auto-sensing on/off.

 

[ManBearPig]

I'd like to make a little bit off of it to offset the cost of the 2112.

It's a Denon AVR-1910. I need one that actually supports 3D. Although, what grinds my gears is that for the most part, HDMI 1.3 is fairly 3D compliant. The Top-Bottom, Side-by-Side and Checkerboard transmission formats all fit in the standard 720p/1080p spec since they use a 1080p picture typically split in some fashion to contain both the content for both eyes. Blu-Ray's Frame Packing doesn't completely work though. The problem is that Frame Packing is larger (1920x2180 I believe) as it contains two 1080p frames with a small break in between. Because of the larger video frame, the AVR cannot find the audio stream. This can be solved with using an optical cable to transmit the audio, which means you don't get lossless audio (DTS-HD Master, Dolby TrueHD).

The reason why it doesn't work is that it won't transfer an EDID that says, "hey, I support 3D!" :\

There's my 3D rant of the day.



This is the sub that I have:
http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/dsw/index.php?s=dswpro600

It's alright overall. It's not really worth the MSRP though. I do use a cheaper Polk sub (Polk PSW10) upstairs, but that's mostly because I wanted a small sub with auto-sensing on/off.

A)That sucks balls about the 3D.

B)I want your receiver.

 

[ManBearPig]

So my current speaker wire is color coded...regular speaker wire is not, right? How to i know which sides are negative and which sides are positive? Maybe i'm just missing something here. Thanks.

 

[Anubis]

its marked on the casing somewhere

if you got it from monoprice one side should have a blue or white line on it

 

[SithSolo1]

its marked on the casing somewhere

if you got it from monoprice one side should have a blue or white line on it

Like Anubis said, usually the casing is marked in some way. It may be a line or sometimes information is only printed down one side of the pair. Worst comes to worse you could just run it through your hand "pinching" one edge. Since its the front 3 I don't think you should have more than 10ft of cable to deal with per speaker.

Also the polarity of a side of the cable is neutral until you plug it in. If you wanted to put the black banana clips in the red binding post it would work just fine as long as it was matched up on both ends. i.e the black clips in the red posts on speakers and receiver and the red clips in the black posts. Note: I do not recommend doing it this way. The colors are just a guide.

 

[sdifox]

So my current speaker wire is color coded...regular speaker wire is not, right? How to i know which sides are negative and which sides are positive? Maybe i'm just missing something here. Thanks.

usually marked, but just make sure both ends agree with each other, so if you pick the coloured one to be red, make sure the other side is also red.

 

[ManBearPig]

usually marked, but just make sure both ends agree with each other, so if you pick the coloured one to be red, make sure the other side is also red.

so basically as long as both sides match its arbitrary whether i insert them into the + or - sides, right?

 

[Aikouka]

so basically as long as both sides match its arbitrary whether i insert them into the + or - sides, right?

Yeah, the two different wires aren't different functionally. There's just the thin line going down the sheathing to designate which is which.

 

[sdifox]

so basically as long as both sides match its arbitrary whether i insert them into the + or - sides, right?

yeap. the jacket marking is just visual aid. Convention is marked side is positive so you connect that to red. But that is just convention.

 

[ManBearPig]

soo...what should i set my crossover values to?

 

[sdifox]

soo...what should i set my crossover values to?

try 80 first.

 

[ManBearPig]

try 80 first.

For all?

 

[sdifox]

For all?

yes. you may be able to go lower on the mains, but I am not sure your amp will hold up.

 

[ManBearPig]

yes. you may be able to go lower on the mains, but I am not sure your amp will hold up.

Okie dokie, thanks. Why would that affect the amp?