Questions about speakers

[ManBearPig]

Also, I'm not switching the wire on the existing speakers. Too lazy. Are banana plugs a good investment?

 

[Anubis]

if you are gonna get plugs you might as well get better wire

and no you dont really need them unless you frequently plug and unplug things

 

[ManBearPig]

if you are gonna get plugs you might as well get better wire

and no you dont really need them unless you frequently plug and unplug things

okie dokie, ill just get better wire for the new ones. though i've heard it really doesnt make a difference (but holy jesus this existing wire is thin).

Oh yeah does anyone know where i could get more information about the sub i currently have that came with the HTiB? All i could find is this: Powered Subwoofer (SKW-770): Bass reflex 290-watt (Max), 10" powered subwoofer. Im wondering how shitty it is since im gonna pair it with the 60s likely lol...

also, random question my brother wants to know: can you connect speakers to a tv without a receiver?

 

[ManBearPig]

alright well im almost positive im going to buy the CS2 tonight and wait til the 60s go on sale. Itll be weird until i get those, but at least it will give me time to try and figure out how to accommodate a gigantic center. hopefully i notice a difference lol...

any objections?

 

[Midwayman]

okie dokie, ill just get better wire for the new ones. though i've heard it really doesnt make a difference (but holy jesus this existing wire is thin).

Oh yeah does anyone know where i could get more information about the sub i currently have that came with the HTiB? All i could find is this: Powered Subwoofer (SKW-770): Bass reflex 290-watt (Max), 10" powered subwoofer. Im wondering how shitty it is since im gonna pair it with the 60s likely lol...

also, random question my brother wants to know: can you connect speakers to a tv without a receiver?

Wire gauge is mostly determined by the power being pushed to the speakers. If you have the same receiver the power should be the same the the wire should be adequate. However due to cost cutting the wire may be undersized. Its only of the worst things to spend money on if money is tight. I seriously doubt you'll notice the difference in wire vs better speakers. Buy lamp cord from home depot off the spool if you need cheap wire.

If it came in a HTiaB the sub is going to be shitty. Building or buying a proper powered sub isn't exactly cheap though. Just hang onto it until you can afford to throw a couple hundred bucks at it. You don't want to end up buying twice.

You can connect speakers to a TV without a receiver, but except in some very special situations you're going to need an amp. I've seen a few TV's with detachable speakers that you could theoretically wire to different speakers. Its something I would avoid.

Check out http://www.parts-express.com/ for bits. Good place to build your setup from.

 

[ManBearPig]

Thanks for the info, guess that puts the subwoofer q to rest lol. I'll buy another one after i take care of the rest of the speakers! And i think i will buy new wire as well, its pretty cheap anyway.

Operation buy new speakers is a go!

 

[ManBearPig]

aosfjkasjfskfjkl cant decide on cherry or black! i was gonna go black for sure, but cherry is like $25 cheaper on the center alone! anyone have any home pics? its hard to find any on the net...

 

[SithSolo1]

Black
- http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/storage/5/1160436/Rear-2-resized.jpg

Cherry
-http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/importkrawler/DSC_2969.jpg
-http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/importkrawler/DSC_2968.jpg

Not my speakers, I have a friend with the black and they look nice but I think I would get the Cherry if I had a choice.

 

[ManBearPig]

Black
- http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/storage/5/1160436/Rear-2-resized.jpg

Cherry
-http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/importkrawler/DSC_2969.jpg
-http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/importkrawler/DSC_2968.jpg

Not my speakers, I have a friend with the black and they look nice but I think I would get the Cherry if I had a choice.

damn, thanks. that cherry really does look good in those pics. im thinking it is more well suited to lighter theater areas than darker environments, where it may be too bright. appreciate it!

 

[ManBearPig]

Bought a black CS2! Woooo. It was $23 more expensive than cherry which is kind of annoying, but cherry would not really work in my man cave. Pretty excited to set this up. Should make it a total pain in the ass for me because im gonna have to figure out how to fit it, and then ill have really mismatched speakers for a while haha. Although that will make me get the other fronts pretty fast.

 

[ManBearPig]

Found this out about the woofer:

Type: Bass-reflex
Input sensitivity/Impedance:
140 mV/20 kΩ
Maximum output power: 290 W (Dynamic power)
Frequency response: 25 Hz–150 Hz
Cabinet capacity: 37 L (1.3 cubic feet)
Dimensions
(W × H × D): 275 × 507 × 411 mm
(10-13/16" × 19-15/16" × 16-3/16")
Weight: 11.6 kg (25.6 lbs.)
Drivers unit: 25 cm (10") Cone Woofer
Power supply North American:
AC 120 V, 60 Hz
Power consumption North American:
163 W

Does this mean anything to you? lol.

The receiver:

Rated Output Power
North American:
130 watts minimum continuous power
per channel, 6 ohms, at 1 kHz with a
maximum total harmonic distortion of
1%
Dynamic Power 180 W (3Ω, Front)
160 W (4Ω, Front)
100 W (8Ω, Front)
THD (Total Harmonic Distortion)
0.08% (1 kHz 1 W)
Damping Factor 60 (Front, 1 kHz, 8&#937
Input Sensitivity and Impedance
200 mV/ 47 kΩ (LINE)
Output Level and Impedance
200 mV/ 2.2 kΩ (REC OUT)
Frequency Response 5 Hz–100 kHz/ +1 dB–3 dB (Direct mode)
Tone Control ±10 dB, 50 Hz (BASS)
±10 dB, 20 kHz (TREBLE)
Signal to Noise Ratio 106 dB (LINE, IHF-A)
Speaker Impedance North American:
6Ω–16Ω

The power rating for the Monitor60 is 20-200W (275 for the 70s) and for the CS2 is 20-175W. Do i need an additional amp? The only reason i ask is because ive seen some reviews where people recommend it.

 

[Smoove910]

130W should be plenty for the Monitor 60's. I have about 80w going to mine and they are plenty loud for me. You can always bi-amp them if you want a little more output, but the receiver has to be capable of it.

 

[ManBearPig]

130W should be plenty for the Monitor 60's. I have about 80w going to mine and they are plenty loud for me. You can always bi-amp them if you want a little more output, but the receiver has to be capable of it.

It's not! No preouts! Would this be more of an issue if i got the 70s?

I might make a separate thread on 60s vs 70s...totally unsure of what to do.

 

[Anubis]

you dont need preouts unless you plan on using an external amp. as we stated earlier you dont need one

 

[ManBearPig]

you dont need preouts unless you plan on using an external amp. as we stated earlier you dont need one

alright, thats that then. ive seen people say that they sound completely different and way better with bi-amping or whatever the hell that is lol. i certainly do not have the money for that, but i wont be anywhere near reference levels anyway. ive heard not having enough power can mess with lows and highs, but im assuming thats only if its not getting enough power it needs, which it should according to you guys.

 

[ManBearPig]

Im contemplating selling all my speakers and current sub, and just using my 3 new speakers and a new sub until i can afford surrounds. This way nothing would be from the Onkyo HTiaB. It might suck without surround for a few months though...

Thoughts?

Edit: also, how horrible is it that my AVR is 6 ohms and the speakers are @ 8 ohms? i thought the AVR was 8 ohms. ahhh

 

[SithSolo1]

Im contemplating selling all my speakers and current sub, and just using my 3 new speakers and a new sub until i can afford surrounds. This way nothing would be from the Onkyo HTiaB. It might suck without surround for a few months though...

Thoughts?

Edit: also, how horrible is it that my AVR is 6 ohms and the speakers are @ 8 ohms? i thought the AVR was 8 ohms. ahhh

Your receiver is more than likely able to run both 6 and 8 Ohm. 4 Ohm would be an issue. If you are going to get a sub, don't get a Polk one. If you can set the M70s to large in the receiver they will run full range. They more than likely go as low if not lower than that HTiB sub and there are two of them. I would keep saving until you have more money for a sub. $200 is just scraping by. If you really have to get one now then go buy the BIC F12 off Amazon for $185. Ideally you want a minimum of $500 for a decent one.

 

[sdifox]

Your receiver is more than likely able to run both 6 and 8 Ohm. 4 Ohm would be an issue. If you are going to get a sub, don't get a Polk one. If you can set the M70s to large in the receiver they will run full range. They more than likely go as low if not lower than that HTiB sub and there are two of them. I would keep saving until you have more money for a sub. $200 is just scraping by. If you really have to get one now then go buy the BIC F12 off Amazon for $185. Ideally you want a minimum of $500 for a decent one.

it's not just a matter of the speakers being able to go low enough. The more important question is whether the amp is powerful enough to do so safely.

 

[ManBearPig]

Ok, im rethinking my plan. What im wondering is how important are subs really for a decent HT? Like what am i getting with a HTiaB sub vs a decent one? The most i would go is this: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/stf-2.html

That was recommended to me. I'd have to save a while for that but if its worth it i will.

 

[sdifox]

Ok, im rethinking my plan. What im wondering is how important are subs really for a decent HT? Like what am i getting with a HTiaB sub vs a decent one? The most i would go is this: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/stf-2.html

That was recommended to me. I'd have to save a while for that but if its worth it i will.

I would rather wait to get decent sub than buy a not so good one and regret it.

 

[ManBearPig]

I would rather wait to get decent sub than buy a not so good one and regret it.

Thanks fox, i suppose I'll do that. Who knows, i may come across some more money and be able to hit your $500 mark, heh. Why are these damn things so expensive?!

 

[sdifox]

Thanks fox, i suppose I'll do that. Who knows, i may come across some more money and be able to hit your $500 mark, heh. Why are these damn things so expensive?!

my speakers cost 6900 including tax, back in 1999.

 

[ManBearPig]

my speakers cost 6900 including tax, back in 1999.

$9,348.63 in 2011, jease. What speakers do you own? Maybe one day when im a working adult i can afford something like that.

 

[sdifox]

$9,348.63 in 2011, jease. What speakers do you own? Maybe one day when im a working adult i can afford something like that.

and it was 7k only because the company was having a sale. I got the 1000 dollar centre free...

mains
Definitive Technology BP2000TL

http://www.definitivetech.com/Products/Products.aspx?productid=BP2000TL#More

Centre

CLR2000

Rear

BP10B


I waited I think a year to get the cash together to build my ht. pre/pro was 1,500, amp was 1000.

 

[SithSolo1]

You will notice a difference between the HTiB sub and pretty much any half decent sub. There is nothing wrong with that sub, HSU makes great subs. But when it comes to budget subs I think you would be hard pressed to hear/feel a difference between the Bic F12 and the STF-2.

BIC F12:
150w continuous
12" Driver, Ported
Down to 25hz
42lbs
$185 shipped

HSU STF-2:
200w continuous
10" Driver, Ported
Down to 25hz
44lbs
$392 shipped

For comparisson -

HSU VTF-2 mk3:
250w
12" Driver, Ported
Down to 18hz
80lbs
$572 shipped

Epik Legend:
300w
Dual 12" Drivers, Sealed
Down to 16hz
80lbs
$569 shipped

Elemental Designs(eD) A3-250:
300w
10" Driver, Ported
Down to 18hz
70lbs
$455 shipped

Is the HSU STF-2 a better sub than the BIC F12, more than likely yes. Is it worth almost double the price, not in my opinion. Any of the "For Comparison" models would be a much more worth while investment in the long run and all of them them are better HT subs than the STF-2/BIC F12.

Again this is just my opinion based on stuff I have seen on various forums and review sites over the years.