Question about "turning on computer" without a case.

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purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
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I could do the resistor -> LED in parallel though right? Like just to be sure that it's doing what I expect it to do? I never realized how useful an LED would be for these projects lol.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
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I could do the resistor -> LED in parallel though right? Like just to be sure that it's doing what I expect it to do? I never realized how useful an LED would be for these projects lol.

better to disconnect, see if circuit will work correctly.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
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When I turn it on it shoots to like around 4v or so and slowly goes up to 5.17v after about 20-30 seconds.

If it is 4+v it is already logic 1 from the start. And 20-30 sec is way too long to hold the button down. Damn it.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
52,859
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If it is 4+v it is already logic 1 from the start. And 20-30 sec is way too long to hold the button down. Damn it.
Yeah I had the multimeter pins on the 2 before I turned it on. When I turn it on. the screen blanks out for like a very short time and the very next reading is the +4v. I don't get why it slowly goes up to 5v though. Wish I understood this more so I could try different things lol.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
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Yeah the capacitors and resistors are slowing down the rise to 5v. I was hoping it would be slow enough for xor (with both input attached) to pass 1 for a short period of time then turn to 0. But it doesn't look like it is doing that. Going to check the spec sheet of the xor again to see what is low enough to register as 0.


Lol 2V registers as 1.

So right now you have 2 resistor and 2 caps in the rc delay right? I need to do some math.
 
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sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
95,029
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Try this.

PWRPin-- resistor 1-- resistor 2 -- Capacitor 1 and 2 in parallel -- XOR Input 1

PWRPin -- XOR Input 2

XOR pin 3 --- PWRGRD
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
52,859
5,732
126
Yeah the capacitors and resistors are slowing down the rise to 5v. I was hoping it would be slow enough for xor (with both input attached) to pass 1 for a short period of time then turn to 0. But it doesn't look like it is doing that. Going to check the spec sheet of the xor again to see what is low enough to register as 0.


Lol 2V registers as 1.

So right now you have 2 resistor and 2 caps in the rc delay right? I need to do some math.
Yeah that is what I have on the PWRpin going to XOR1.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
52,859
5,732
126
Try this.

PWRPin-- resistor 1-- resistor 2 -- Capacitor 1 and 2 in parallel -- XOR Input 1

PWRPin -- XOR Input 2

XOR pin 3 --- PWRGRD
Just saw this after I replied. I'll give this a go in a bit after I grill and chill.

Even if we can't get this to work, I appreciate the help and effort you are putting into this.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
52,859
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It's fun xd
I agree it is fun. But I want to wrap it up because it's like the last thing I need to do before I can put my cabinet back. I worked on some other stuff for it today too where I had to make a long ass IDE cable (6ft) and then extend a power wire and my gun harness. But since that is wrapped up all I want to do now is wrap this up and I can put my cabinet back in it's spot and clean up.

I mean I could put it back in it's spot now because this game is going to be on the harness that is outside of the cabinet running on those long cables, but it won't be easy for me logistically to take multimeter readings and stuff where it will be sitting, so i'm holding off on that for now.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
95,029
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I agree it is fun. But I want to wrap it up because it's like the last thing I need to do before I can put my cabinet back. I worked on some other stuff for it today too where I had to make a long ass IDE cable (6ft) and then extend a power wire and my gun harness. But since that is wrapped up all I want to do now is wrap this up and I can put my cabinet back in it's spot and clean up.

I mean I could put it back in it's spot now because this game is going to be on the harness that is outside of the cabinet running on those long cables, but it won't be easy for me logistically to take multimeter readings and stuff where it will be sitting, so i'm holding off on that for now.
09181-Big_Dome_Pushbutton_-_Red-01.jpg
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
95,029
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That's too boring, and it wouldn't be clean for my liking. The external game is going to sit on top of one of my Rush 2049 cabinets. I don't want to have to have a wire just to start the motherboard for that game if it's hooked up.

meant as a joke.
 
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purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
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Okay had some time to do it and it isn't working, and when I check XOR1 and XOR3 it is 5.12v immediately when I turn it on. When I turn it off it drains pretty quickly. Same thing when I check XOR2 and XOR3.

I do have the caps so that positive side is running on the resistor side and the negative side on XOR1.

Here is how it's wired up ifspacing works.

Code:
PWRPin --> resistor --> resistor --> cap -> XOR1
                                 |
                                 |-> cap -> XOR1
PWRPin --> XOR2
GRDPin --> XOR3
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
95,029
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damn it....

you want to try this?


you just need that 555 timer chip, keep using the same resistor and cap to get about 1 second. Pin 4,8 connect to +5V, the 5V with resistor you connect to PWRPIN and PIN3 goes to PWRGRD. Where the 47kOhm resistor is, use 1 of your 10KOhm resistors. Ground after cap is ground from psu.



Needless to say, use the breadboard first.

 
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purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
52,859
5,732
126
damn it....

you want to try this?


you just need that 555 timer chip, keep using the same resistor and cap to get about 1 second. Pin 4,8 connect to +5V, the 5V with resistor you connect to PWRPIN and PIN3 goes to PWRGRD. Where the 47kOhm resistor is, use 1 of your 10KOhm resistors. Ground after cap is ground from psu.



Needless to say, use the breadboard first.

I can probably run there later.

It says to use 2 kids of resistors 470 and 47k. Are you saying to use the 10k ones for both of em? Microcenter has the 470 ones but I didn't see 47k.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
95,029
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I can probably run there later.

It says to use 2 kids of resistors 470 and 47k. Are you saying to use the 10k ones for both of em? Microcenter has the 470 ones but I didn't see 47k.

you can just use your resistor and cap, the values of resistor and cap affect the timing. If you use the values in that page you get like 5 seconds on which is too long
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
52,859
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Just went to Microcenter and got the timer thing. I also got more caps and resistors just so I have one without cut legs lol. They are cheap as shit anyways. I also got an NPN transistor since I was there. It was like $3 extra in parts. Do you think the original one with NPN could still possibly work or you think that isn't going to work based on the trouble I've had thus far?
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
95,029
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Just went to Microcenter and got the timer thing. I also got more caps and resistors just so I have one without cut legs lol. They are cheap as shit anyways. I also got an NPN transistor since I was there. It was like $3 extra in parts. Do you think the original one with NPN could still possibly work or you think that isn't going to work based on the trouble I've had thus far?

No go with the timer, the original circuit was flawed, it will flicker.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
52,859
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Okay I got it working in the breadboard with just using batteries for +5v and ground. Light stays on for like 1 second or so then cuts off.

I'm going to keep everything in the breadboard and hook it up to the harnesses I made to hook into the motherboard and PSU and cross my fingers lol.