Question about "turning on computer" without a case.

[sdifox]

I would definitely like to do this without a switch if possible. And doing this kind of stuff is fun to me.

So those parts you are talking about, is that something I'd have to order from like digikey or something? Would I have to get some small empty breadboard or something to hook it all to?

EDIT:

Do you know if this is stuff Microcenter sells in the DIY section, if you are familiar with the store? I have one local.

EDIT 2:

Looks like they have capacitors, resistors, and the transistor. I don't really know what the XOR logic gates are I just keep getting these chips with like 16 legs when I search for em, but your diagram only shows 3 pins. Can you point me to one of those? Here are the parts I found at Microcenter, would these work?

PNP transistor - https://www.microcenter.com/product...-pnp-audio-amplifier-switch-transistor-5-pack

Capacitor - https://www.microcenter.com/product...c10-0060-100uf-16v-radial-capacitors---2-pack

Resistor - https://www.microcenter.com/product/390039/nte-electronics-1-4-watt-10k-ohm-resistor-4-pack

There were multiple results for 100uf caps though so I wasn't sure if they will all work or not.

you cannot buy a single logic gate, they tend to come in a 4x package.

74HCT86 Quad 2-input XOR Gate

74HCT86 Quad 2-input XOR Gate

components101.com

so you have to connect VCC (pin 14) and Ground (pin 7) to +5VDC and GRD from mb to power the chip, then use say pin 1 and 2 as input and 3 as output.
the different capacitors are just different characteristics, not all that applicable to you. The 16V should be good enough.

that is why you use a breadboard and jumper wires to test build.

you also test this circuit with an LED in series with a small resistor. if it works then you hook up to actual circuit. we are talking 5vdc stuff, pretty safe.

 

[Red Squirrel]

I think if I have something hooked up to the PWRSW then I don't need to do anything else since that would be essentially like hitting the legit power button. Although, I do still want it to turn off the PSU so maybe I would need something else.

Yeah you would not really need to do anything to the PSU at that point. What you could do though is have a hard power switch somewhere to cut power to the entire cabinet (For maintenance or power savings etc), then have the normal power button for standby power to turn it on. Typically you'd just keep the main switch on like a computer or most devices that have standby power. Have the front power switch turn on an arduino (or send a signal to one that is already on, whichever one you feel is better) and then have the arduino handle power on sequence. You will need to do some coding but it's actually pretty simple. It could turn on relays to everything you need, including sending a on/off signal to the power switch by turning a relay on and off. Don't need to use an actual arduino either, you could just use an atmega chip with rest of circuitry and then program it the same as an arduino.

There are probably better analog ways of doing this though, microcontrollers are kind of cheating, but they are so cheap it sometimes ends up being the simplest and most economical solution.

 

[purbeast0]

Yeah you would not really need to do anything to the PSU at that point. What you could do though is have a hard power switch somewhere to cut power to the entire cabinet (For maintenance or power savings etc), then have the normal power button for standby power to turn it on. Typically you'd just keep the main switch on like a computer or most devices that have standby power. Have the front power switch turn on an arduino (or send a signal to one that is already on, whichever one you feel is better) and then have the arduino handle power on sequence. You will need to do some coding but it's actually pretty simple. It could turn on relays to everything you need, including sending a on/off signal to the power switch by turning a relay on and off. Don't need to use an actual arduino either, you could just use an atmega chip with rest of circuitry and then program it the same as an arduino.

There are probably better analog ways of doing this though, microcontrollers are kind of cheating, but they are so cheap it sometimes ends up being the simplest and most economical solution.

There is already a hard power for the cabinet.

Keep in mind too, this is one out of 8 games in the cabinet. Unless I am specifically playing this game, I do not want the ATX PSU being powered and giving the motherboard power.

 

[purbeast0]

@sdifox would this work for the XOR gate or is this different? From what I was googling it looks like there are a lot of these quad ones where it's 4 xor gates in one chip.

NTE Electronics NTE74LS32 IC-TTL Quad 2-Input OR Gate - Micro Center

Get it now! Find over 30,000 products at your local Micro Center, including the NTE74LS32 IC-TTL Quad 2-Input OR Gate

www.microcenter.com

 

[sdifox]

@sdifox would this work for the XOR gate or is this different? From what I was googling it looks like there are a lot of these quad ones where it's 4 xor gates in one chip.

NTE Electronics NTE74LS32 IC-TTL Quad 2-Input OR Gate - Micro Center

Get it now! Find over 30,000 products at your local Micro Center, including the NTE74LS32 IC-TTL Quad 2-Input OR Gate

www.microcenter.com

Yeah they are just different manufacturers and what tech is used.
Wait, you linked an OR gate, you need a TTL XOR gate, Exclusive OR.

TTL 7486

 

[Red Squirrel]

There is already a hard power for the cabinet.

Keep in mind too, this is one out of 8 games in the cabinet. Unless I am specifically playing this game, I do not want the ATX PSU being powered and giving the motherboard power.

Oh I see what you mean. Though keep in mind even if it is receiving power it's going to be the same as a computer that's turned off. But if you're going to have 8 in there I can see not wanting all those boards having standby power.

 

[sdifox]

Oh I see what you mean. Though keep in mind even if it is receiving power it's going to be the same as a computer that's turned off. But if you're going to have 8 in there I can see not wanting all those boards having standby power.

Rest of his arcade boards don't have a separate PC attached to them.

 

[purbeast0]

Oh I see what you mean. Though keep in mind even if it is receiving power it's going to be the same as a computer that's turned off. But if you're going to have 8 in there I can see not wanting all those boards having standby power.

I don't mind if that one motherboard has standby power on.

 

[purbeast0]

Yeah they are just different manufacturers and what tech is used.
Wait, you linked an OR gate, you need a TTL XOR gate, Exclusive OR.

TTL 7486

Gotcha. I don't see those at Microcenter unfortunately.

EDIT:

Actually I do see them there and they have em in stock.

 

[purbeast0]

that is why you use a breadboard and jumper wires to test build.

you also test this circuit with an LED in series with a small resistor. if it works then you hook up to actual circuit. we are talking 5vdc stuff, pretty safe.

What exactly do you mean by this?

Reason I ask is because I may run to Microcenter and grab this stuff so play with tonight. Should I just grab a test LED or something?

 

[sdifox]

What exactly do you mean by this?

Reason I ask is because I may run to Microcenter and grab this stuff so play with tonight. Should I just grab a test LED or something?

Yeah. So connect resistor then LED to the B pin on the diagram then to ground. Breadboard will be easier.

A pin is +5VDC.

 

[purbeast0]

Yeah. So connect resistor then led to the b pin on the diagram then to ground. Breadboard will be easier.

Hmm okay I think I get that.

But then like, what do I connect to A to "test" it. Still the +5v?

Going to head to Microcenter and see if I can grab this stuff now.

 

[sdifox]

Hmm okay I think I get that.

But then like, what do I connect to A to "test" it. Still the +5v?

Going to head to Microcenter and see if I can grab this stuff now.

See edit :awe:

I used to have an electronic learning set where each component is in a block when I was in grade 6

 

[purbeast0]

Okay I just got all this shit from Microcenter. Should be everything I need hopefully.

I wasn't exactly sure what you meant by jumper wires are useful to have to test with and they only had these packs of like 10+ for $8 or something so I didn't get any of those.

I'm hoping to play around with it tonight but may not until tomorrow. I guess the idea is to use the breadboard to just put stuff in there without any solder and you can move stuff around if need be, and can test it out? I plan on trying that and then putting it on the other board after it hopefully works and solder it to that. That was the smallest one they had and I won't need wires cause the holes are connected a certain way on the other side similar to the solderless breadboard.

So how exactly do I hook the LED as pin B? The LED has 2 pins on it and I expected just one lol. Other than that, I think I can follow that diagram you laid out in order to get everything setup properly, and then I will just run a wire from the power pin on the motherboard as pin A in your diagram, fire it up, and hope that the light turns on. Should I just expect to see the light flash once or will it stay on?

EDIT:

How the hell do I know wtf connects to what on the solderless breadboard? I expected the back of it to have some kind of diagram so I know what connects to what, but it's just got sticky tape on the back.

 

[sdifox]

Okay I just got all this shit from Microcenter. Should be everything I need hopefully.

I wasn't exactly sure what you meant by jumper wires are useful to have to test with and they only had these packs of like 10+ for $8 or something so I didn't get any of those.

I'm hoping to play around with it tonight but may not until tomorrow. I guess the idea is to use the breadboard to just put stuff in there without any solder and you can move stuff around if need be, and can test it out? I plan on trying that and then putting it on the other board after it hopefully works and solder it to that. That was the smallest one they had and I won't need wires cause the holes are connected a certain way on the other side similar to the solderless breadboard.

So how exactly do I hook the LED as pin B? The LED has 2 pins on it and I expected just one lol. Other than that, I think I can follow that diagram you laid out in order to get everything setup properly, and then I will just run a wire from the power pin on the motherboard as pin A in your diagram, fire it up, and hope that the light turns on. Should I just expect to see the light flash once or will it stay on?

Yeah just need small gauge wire, you don't have to buy the jumper wires. The light should stay on for around a second.

pin B -- resistor --- Longer led leg , shor led leg --- ground.

Watch some YouTube video on breadboard prototyping.

How to Use a Breadboard

Using a solderless breadboard for circuits and electronics projects including resistance, amperage, voltage, and electric motors

www.sciencebuddies.org

 

[purbeast0]

Yeah just need small gauge wire, you don't have to buy the jumper wires. The light should stay on for around a second.

pin B -- resistor --- Longer led leg , shor led leg --- ground.

Watch some YouTube video on breadboard prototyping.

How to Use a Breadboard

Using a solderless breadboard for circuits and electronics projects including resistance, amperage, voltage, and electric motors

www.sciencebuddies.org

I did a quick google search and it looks like the rows all are on the same connection and the columns aren't. And then there is a left/right side. So I'm guessing I have to put the IC chip in the middle to bridge that gap.

Okay and thanks for the LED thing that makes sense about having ground wired to it and you had mentioned that before so duh lol.

So for the "jumper" wire do you just mean basically put the small gauge wire for pin A into the breadboard at the right spot, then just touch the other end of that wire to the power pin on the motherboard while it's on?

 

[Red Squirrel]

Yeah this is basically how the holes connect:

Normally the top rows are power buses so I usually do blue = ground and red = +5v or whatever voltage I'm working with. The top and bottom ones are separate, so you basically have 4 power rails there to play with. And yeah the IC would go in the middle which would break out the pins to individual connection points.

 

[purbeast0]

Yeah I just watched that video in the link above about using breadboards and now it makes sense. Mine doesn't have the bus on the sides of it.

And damn this is super interesting to me and I definitely do NOT need another hobby right now.

 

[sdifox]

I did a quick google search and it looks like the rows all are on the same connection and the columns aren't. And then there is a left/right side. So I'm guessing I have to put the IC chip in the middle to bridge that gap.

Okay and thanks for the LED thing that makes sense about having ground wired to it and you had mentioned that before so duh lol.

So for the "jumper" wire do you just mean basically put the small gauge wire for pin A into the breadboard at the right spot, then just touch the other end of that wire to the power pin on the motherboard while it's on?

Did you watch the video I linked?

 

[sdifox]

Yeah I just watched that video in the link above about using breadboards and now it makes sense. Mine doesn't have the bus on the sides of it.

And damn this is super interesting to me and I definitely do NOT need another hobby right now.

I can't say I have ran into too many breadboards without the power rail on the sides. Not that it matters, just more convenient.

In which case you need to use jumper wire.

Might be easier to use a power adapter from a switch or something to provide 4 to 6 volt sc or 3 AA batteries.

 

[purbeast0]

I can't say I have ran into too many breadboards without the power rail on the sides. Not that it matters, just more convenient.

In which case you need to use jumper wire.

I got the cheapest breadboard I saw so that is why it probably is missing it.

I'll definitely need some jumper wire just to get from the motherboard to the breadboard generally speaking.

I have a bunch of these that I bought when making all these arcade connectors and this will fit on those 2 pins on the motherboard perfectly once I put pins in them.

If I get this working, I am going to owe you a beer or something. It's also for one of the games I have that I think is one of the best light gun games that I had never even heard of until a couple months ago. So all of this will be worth it lol.

 

[sdifox]

I got the cheapest breadboard I saw so that is why it probably is missing it.

I'll definitely need some jumper wire just to get from the motherboard to the breadboard generally speaking.

I have a bunch of these that I bought when making all these arcade connectors and this will fit on those 2 pins on the motherboard perfectly once I put pins in them.

If I get this working, I am going to owe you a beer or something. It's also for one of the games I have that I think is one of the best light gun games that I had never even heard of until a couple months ago. So all of this will be worth it lol.

The power rails are for convenience. And no beer for me thanks. I don't drink

You should have a dc power adapter somewhere in your house of appropriate voltage, like 4 to 6 VDC. Use that to power your circuit.

Or like 3-4 AA batteries.

 

[purbeast0]

The power rails are for convenience. And no beer for me thanks. I don't drink

You should have a dc power adapter somewhere in your house of appropriate voltage, like 4 to 6 VDC. Use that to power your circuit.

Or like 3-4 AA batteries.

I definitely have AA batteries.

But I don't get how I'd just use batteries like that to power it without something to put them in and run wires to it.

 

[sdifox]

I definitely have AA batteries.

But I don't get how I'd just use batteries like that to power it without something to put them in and run wires to it.

You can just line them 3 or 4 of them up end to end all in the same direction and tape it up. The side with hat is positive so that goes to Pin A and the other side is Pin B.

 

[purbeast0]

You can just line them 3 or 4 of them up end to end all in the same direction and tape it up. The side with hat is positive so that goes to Pin A and the other side is Pin B.

Wow no shit okay I may try that because it is easier and it will be much cooler to see that work lol.