Poor temps? What do you guys think?

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fb0252

Junior Member
Feb 8, 2006
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i have TJ07, lots of room with same top fans, though i had plenty of trouble mounting that fan on the Ultima -90. had to mount it while inside the case. i also see that your HS mounting screw on the left just touches the MB HS fins. On mine, oddly, the mounting screw was placed so that the screw interferes with fins.

one more q from newest of the new: notice the power plug (whatever it's called) on upper left of board on your photo, you have two of them, apparently 8 pins total instead of one 4 pin. wondering if the second 4 pin plug is optional. had to RNA my board, and looking for causes why it would boot 5 times out of 20 tries.

 

AndyD2k

Senior member
Feb 3, 2003
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It looks like it's touching but it isn't. Fits just fine. I think you can rotate the bracket so it's facing the other direction. I've seen pics but I'm not sure if it's optimal

As for the 8 pin power supply cable, there was a cap on half of the connector but the manual clearly said to use all of 8 pins. Manual did say it was a must or the system would be unstable. I would check your manual
 

fb0252

Junior Member
Feb 8, 2006
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ooops. maybe i missed that in the manual.

Andy, here's what mine says (sorry to be pest in midst of ur temp problems!):

1. make sure to remove the cap on theEATX12V connector before connecting the 8-pin EPS +12V power plg.
2. Use only an 8-pin EPS 12 V power plug for EATX connector.

I was reading #2 as a suggestion instead of requirement. #1 and 2 look as if they're in a suggestion box instead of main text. and my manual fails to contain the "unstable" language + I'd read somewhere the 8 pin as optional. Might save an RNA here. Can you tell me what u think? txs very much!
 

AndyD2k

Senior member
Feb 3, 2003
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No worries! I don't mind helping. Anyway, that was the exact text in my manual. Sounded more like something that was a must rather than suggested so I went ahead and used a 8 pin cable
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
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1,904
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I said I'd get back today . . . . had to clean up the room so the fam-dam-ily can play a game on my quad-monster. In process, shut down system, then realized I should check e-mail. No post. reset. No cigar. cold reboot -- no cigar. Clear CMOS -- no cigar. Swapped out the memory into another machine. I blew a RAM module. Had a spare-a-pair, like the hare who lost his spectacles.

Intel's specs on the C2D and C2Q are pretty, well, specific. Overall "CPU" temp is "TCASE" -- what noobs are inclined to monitor. "TJUNCTION" core temperatures are measured from sensors within each core. TCASE is always 9C to 15C lower than the core value average.

So something is weird about your temperatures -- unless I missed something catching up on today's posts here.

For all you ThermalRight-ambitious folks ( I read some posts about someone just getting started with the Ultima 90) -- the only thing on the market right now -- barring some new entry and reviews I've missed -- that trumps the Ultima, is ThermalRight's own Ultra-120-Extreme. Look at the May and August Anandtech comparison reviews. I've pretty much validated their results with my own tests.

The Ultima should be neck-and-neck with the (2nd place) Sunbeam Tuniq, and just behind the Ultra-120-Ex in performance. I've chosen the Ultima for a VISTA-64 build (where I found the spare RAM modules today), because I'm modding a different case and it's narrower.

If you want to be a real hotdog about air-cooling, you may squeeze the temperatures down by as much as 10C -- maybe more -- if you want to try foam-art-board motherboard-ducting. I started a long thread last summer on my own exploits in this regard. If you don't find it first, I'll attempt to hunt it down.

You can also trim about 2 to 3C degrees off TCASE and the core temperatures if you use a 95%-loaded synthetic micronized-diamond-particle TIM. I had to mix my own using JetArt CK-4800 and some diamond abrasive powder I bought, but IC Diamond (see HeatsinkFactory) is better, less expensive, and less trouble. About four applications will cost you $5. There should be enough for a graphics card and a CPU, and it doesn't degrade, like silver-based compounds. Further, you can "re-use" it.

Contrary to myth among the forums here and elsewhere, a positive case-air-pressure can provide better cooling if cool air is ducted through narrow apertures around the hot components and then exhausted immediately from the case. You can find more on cooling at the "Cases and Cooling" forum, and you would also find my "Motherboard Ducting" thread there, unless stuff completely expires after several months.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,368
1,904
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One more thing.

The folks at ThermalRight fouled up in their recent revisions for the Ultra and later coolers.

They purposely decided to make the heatsink-base convex along a ridge down the center of the base. THEY say that this is "good." Most of us say that even if the high "ridge" of the base contacts the IHS to absorb all the heat from the cores, it is still better to contact the entire IHS with a flat heatsink base. Therefore, it can only improve things if you lap the base with sandpaper.

ThermalRight Tech-support says this voids the warranty on the cooler because stripping away part of the nickel-plating may eventually compromise the soldering of the heatpipes to the base.

But SVC and some other establishments who "custom-lap" TR heatsink-bases for customers agreed with me. If the lapping is done carefully, and you don't live near the beach with a high salt-content in the air, it should not be a problem for the cooler over its otherwise effective life. The base is Copper; the plating is Nickel; both metals are next to each other on the Galvanic Table of metals, anyway.

Also, some people are lapping their IHS / heat-spreader/ processor cap -- also voiding the warranty. But various members here report significant decrease in the core (and TCASE as well) temperatures.
 

AndyD2k

Senior member
Feb 3, 2003
824
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Thanks Bonzaiduck! Definitely appreciate all the info. I never spent this much time reading about a cpu and the motherboard I ended up with. And I haven't even gotten started with overclocking :)

Anyway, I decided to try the latest Bios after hearing the temp readings may off with recent bios updates - guess what! look at my temps now. I'm sure what is really accurate now. I'm hoping it's the below but it's obvious that I'll have to get in a probe in their if I want better readings. What do you guys think of the below?


Temperatures
Motherboard 32 °C (90 °F)
CPU 20 °C (68 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #1 34 °C (93 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #2 34 °C (93 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #3 28 °C (82 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #4 27 °C (81 °F)
North Bridge 45 °C (113 °F)
South Bridge 45 °C (113 °F)
GPU 48 °C (118 °F)
GPU Ambient 38 °C (100 °F)
HDT722525DLA380 33 °C (91 °F)
WDC WD5000KS-00MNB0 35 °C (95 °F)

Cooling Fans
CPU 1048 RPM
Chassis #1 1507 RPM
Fan #3 1361 RPM

Voltage Values
CPU Core 1.12 V
+3.3 V 3.26 V
+5 V 4.94 V
+12 V 11.87 V
+5 V Standby 4.95 V
FSB VTT 1.23 V
North Bridge Core 1.34 V
South Bridge Core 1.06 V
South Bridge PLL 1.52 V
DIMM 2.08 V
DIMM VTT 1.04 V
 
Sep 17, 2007
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Your CPU temp is colder than your ambient room temp? How does one do that with two low rpm fans and an air-cooled heatsink?
 

AndyD2k

Senior member
Feb 3, 2003
824
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I can't answer that question myself - I can only hope that the temps are correct this time around :)