PCTC's Antec P190 Modding and Watercool Worklog

[PCTC2]

Well this is going up prematurely but more as a reminder to myself to do the job (I'm on these forums more than I actually work at my job ) but here's my next project. It should be started within the next month (trying to sell my current gaming computer, workstation, and laptop to pay for it all) and the case should be done soon afterwards and the parts will come slowly over the next 5 months. I started planning this almost a year ago and never got to it.

Antec P190 Case
Swiftech MCR320 or ThermoChill PA 120.3
Swiftech ApogeeGTX w/ Copper Top
2x EK-FC88GT/S G92 Full cover GPU Block
EK-150 Rev.2 Reservoir
Swiftech MCP655 Vario
MasterKleer 7/16" ID Tubing
Antec 550W PSU (with P190)

Components:
Intel QX9650 or QX6850
Asus P5E3 Deluxe Wifi
4GB Team Xtreme DDR3-1333 (2GB at first, second 2GB later)
3x WD Raptor 150 in RAID 5
2x Seagate 7200.11 500GB in RAID 1 (Coming later)
PCIe 1x RAID Card (Coming later)
2x eVGA 8800GTS 512MB (2nd Coming later)
Hauppauge 1800 HDTV Tuner (Coming later)
Viewsonic 20" VA2026W surrounded by Viewsonic 17" Monitors
Zalman 850-HP

Other:
Window Kit
Modders-Mesh
4-8 Scythe S-Flex Fans or Yate-Loons
Military Rocker Switches
Blue Cathode Kit
Zalman ZM-MFC2 Fan Controller

I plan to mod the top of the P190, removing the 2 140mm fans and replacing them with the MCR320 with a new mesh top. Three S-Flex or Yate Loon fans will sit below the rad. I am going to install a custom 3.5" bay with 4 rocker switches to power the lighting, watercooling, fans, and AUX powersupply so I can run the watercooling even after the computer shuts off and turn off the lighting at night for crunching with no bling.

Then I plan to add intakes on the sides for the Zalman PSU b/c the case was designed for a straight-through air-cooled PSU, not the side-mounted 140mm fan that the Zalman has. I'll probably add mesh to the 200mm fan intake for looks. I don't really like the intake that Performance-PCs uses on the P190 with a window.

The EK-150 will be mounted above the rubber grommets on the back of the case on the inside if there's room. I'll probably add holes to the motherboard tray for easier wire-routing.

All-in-all, I'm looking forward to this project. Any comments, requests, etc will be taken into consideration.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: PCTC2
Well this is going up prematurely but more as a reminder to myself to do the job (I'm on these forums more than I actually work at my job ) but here's my next project. It should be started within the next month (trying to sell my current gaming computer, workstation, and laptop to pay for it all) and the case should be done soon afterwards and the parts will come slowly over the next 5 months. I started planning this almost a year ago and never got to it.

Antec P190 Case with Window from Performance-PCS.com
Swiftech MCR320
Swiftech ApogeeGTX w/ Copper Top
EK-FC88GT/S G92 Full cover GPU Block
EK-150 Rev.2 Reservoir
Swiftech MCP655 Vario
MasterKleer 7/16" ID Tubing
Antec 550W PSU (with P190)

Components:
Intel QX9650 or QX6850
Asus P5E3 Deluxe Wifi
4GB Team Xtreme DDR3-1333 (2GB at first, second 2GB later)
4x WD Raptor 150 in RAID 5
2x Seagate 7200.11 500GB in RAID 1 (Coming later)
PCIe 1x RAID Card (Coming later)
2x eVGA 8800GTS 512MB
Hauppauge 1800 HDTV Tuner (Coming later)
Viewsonic 20" VA2026W surrounded by Viewsonic 17" Monitors
Zalman 850-HP

I plan to mod the top of the P190, removing the 2 140mm fans and replacing them with the MCR320 with a new mesh top. Three S-Flex or Yate Loon fans will sit below the rad. I am going to install a custom 3.5" bay with 4 rocker switches to power the lighting, watercooling, fans, and AUX powersupply so I can run the watercooling even after the computer shuts off and turn off the lighting at night for crunching with no bling.

Then I plan to add intakes on the sides for the Zalman PSU b/c the case was designed for a straight-through air-cooled PSU, not the side-mounted 140mm fan that the Zalman has. I'll probably add mesh to the 200mm fan intake for looks. I don't really like the intake that Performance-PCs uses on the P190 with a window.

The EK-150 will be mounted above the rubber grommets on the back of the case on the inside if there's room. I'll probably add holes to the motherboard tray for easier wire-routing.

All-in-all, I'm looking forward to this project. Any comments, requests, etc will be taken into consideration.

Mounting the fans on the bottom will be difficult because of the block mounting bolts. I ran into my first problem here. You may need to use a hard mount.

Second problem i ran was the dead air spots next to the radiator. Your mosfets are usually located behind the radiator and fan. You wont get any air going though these components. This is why i also mounted the first 2 fans on the topside instead of inside.


Messure twice and cut once. Dont rush it with an expensive case like that. My case was oly 39 dollars After rebate so i didnt care much about it. But your case is well in the 200 dollar ranges so take it slow

 

[Rike]

I'd recommend using Tygon tubing rather than the MasterKleer. It's more expensive but so much easier to work with. Worth every penny in my opinion.

I've done fairly extensive modding for water cooling with my P180B. I have some pics I can share if you're interested including a dual rad mounted on the top of the case. I'll post some pics later.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Rike
I'd recommend using Tygon tubing rather than the MasterKleer. It's more expensive but so much easier to work with. Worth every penny in my opinion.

I've done fairly extensive modding for water cooling with my P180B. I have some pics I can share if you're interested including a dual rad mounted on the top of the case. I'll post some pics later.

how is it easier? the tubbing is thicker around the walls, each time you stick it in a barb, worm clamps are required instead of zipties.

The temp difference between 1/2ID and 7/16ID is around .2C but you get a better seal around the 7/16ID tubing.


So how is it better?

 

[PCTC2]

Originally posted by: aigomorla

Mounting the fans on the bottom will be difficult because of the block mounting bolts. I ran into my first problem here. You may need to use a hard mount.

Second problem i ran was the dead air spots next to the radiator. Your mosfets are usually located behind the radiator and fan. You wont get any air going though these components. This is why i also mounted the first 2 fans on the topside instead of inside.


Messure twice and cut once. Dont rush it with an expensive case like that. My case was oly 39 dollars After rebate so i didnt care much about it. But your case is well in the 200 dollar ranges so take it slow

Luckily, the P190 is designed for 140mm fans on top. I'm going to offset the radiator as close to the door as possible, using the alignment from the original 140mm fans with the mounting holes closest to the door. This should eliminate any possible clearance issue with the block mounting bolts... hopefully. Otherwise, I'll just build a shroud up top. That's why I'm using the mesh. It'll make the radiator look centered underneath, but it'll be offset to accompany any obstructions.
Secondly, I'll mount those extra Asus heatsink fans for the PWM heatpipe heatsinks to cool them (a little bit).

And I think I'll measure like a few dozen times before cutting. Plus, the case is closer to $500 @ performance PCs. P190, not the P180.

And I'll stick with the MasterKleer.

 

[aigomorla]

500 dollars!?!?!??!?!?!? for a case like that?

i hope its because of the dual PSU's.

Man.... 500 i could of gotten a fully decked out dualy :X

 

[Rike]

Originally posted by: aigomorla

Originally posted by: Rike
I'd recommend using Tygon tubing rather than the MasterKleer. It's more expensive but so much easier to work with. Worth every penny in my opinion.

I've done fairly extensive modding for water cooling with my P180B. I have some pics I can share if you're interested including a dual rad mounted on the top of the case. I'll post some pics later.

how is it easier? the tubbing is thicker around the walls, each time you stick it in a barb, worm clamps are required instead of zipties.

The temp difference between 1/2ID and 7/16ID is around .2C but you get a better seal around the 7/16ID tubing.


So how is it better?

The Tygon tubing I linked to has the same dimensions as the MasterKleer (7/16"ID, 5/8" OD). The MasterKleer is much more rigid than the Tygon. While I'll admit this is an advantage in terms of seal, getting the tubing on the barb is tough with the MasterKleer and a cake walk with Tygon.

I've always use #6 worm drive clamps for my water cooling stuff. I know you usually advocate for using zip ties because they're so easy, but the worm drive clamps give me much great peace of mind. I haven't yet had a leak while using them, so I'm inclined to continue using them. It's probably overkill, but I tend to over-engineer things. It makes them heavier, but they don't generally break.

When it's all said and done, I didn't want to argue which tubing is the best. I prefer the Tygon and consider it worth the money. aigomorla, you think it's not better. That's fine, I have no problem with that. We set up our rigs in different ways and use different parts.

Originally posted by: PCTC2
P190, not the P180.

I know they are different; the P190 is like the P180's big brother. I only offered pics because seeing what others have done has always given me ideas for how to think about my projects. Since the P180 and P190 are so similar, I thought pics might give you an ideas.

Maybe these pics will be useful to you. I did all the mods myself, so if you'd like to ask me about something, feel free.
Case closed with window This pics shows Swiftech coolant additive that I've since replaced as well as a different motherboard (Intel BadAxe2).
Motherboard area floor
Cutout for Swiftech MCR220
MCR220 mounted on top
Inside looking up at MCR220
Rig in its current configuration In this picture, the coolant additive is Pentosin G11 (Blue) with blue UV dye (UV lights are on).

System specs:
Abit IP35 Pro / Q6600 @ 3.0Ghz on Swiftech Apogee | 4 GB Ballistix | EVGA 7900GT on MCW60 | MCP655 Pump | MCR320+MCR220 Rads | Scythe S-Flex SFF21F (x5)

 

[PCTC2]

Originally posted by: Rike

Originally posted by: PCTC2
P190, not the P180.

I know they are different; the P190 is like the P180's big brother. I only offered pics because seeing what others have done has always given me ideas for how to think about my projects. Since the P180 and P190 are so similar, I thought pics might give you an ideas.

I was actually replying to aigo cuz he said $200... that's for the P182 SE...

EDIT: BTW, nice job on your loop and case. Dual rads?

 

[PCTC2]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
500 dollars!?!?!??!?!?!? for a case like that?

i hope its because of the dual PSU's.

Man.... 500 i could of gotten a fully decked out dualy :X

I haven't gotten it yet. I had a P190 (non-window) that I sold with a computer. I liked the case, but I have space-restrictions in my apartment. . I don't have all the space in the world for a dualy or any MM case.

EDIT:
I could always get a TJ07 or TJ09, CM-810, P190 w/out window (only $300), ABS/Tagan/Lian-Li Full Tower Server, etc. I could consider a MM UFO or similar... but I'm limited in width space...
I want a good quality case that is larger than a standard case (preferably EATX) with dual PSU's (TJ09 lacks this, but has space above the mobo for fans) and space for a 120.3 radiator without too much loss of bay usage (HDD or 5.25). That narrows my options down alot. Any other suggestions?

 

[PCTC2]

I think I might go with the Lian-Li v2000 (or its ABS or Tagan variants) because of this thread at XS:

Tri-Loop v2000

but I like the P190 better. I am so indecisive. . At least I have 3 weeks to decide.

 

[shabby]

Theres excessive and then theres lunacy, that tri-loop falls under lunacy.
I thought my p190 was big but that one is huge, 7 bays up top and with enough space to fit 2 120.3 rads.

 

[PCTC2]

Well, I was going to post 3D renders of my project, then I never finished them.

But anyways, I just ordered the parts and they should be here next week some time.

I ordered:

Thermochill PA120.3 with Shroud
Swiftech ApogeeGTX w/ Copper Top
Swiftech MCP655
EK-250 Reservoir
EK-FC88GT (G92) GPU Block
Antec P190
Lots of YateLoons
Blue CCFLs, Window Kit, Dremel, nibbler, and switches
Zalman MFC2
Tygon 7/16" Tubing
IC Diamond TIM
UV Cables and Coils and cable wraps
Other "bling" for my case.

Can't wait for the stuff to arrive so I can start.... double checking my measurements that is.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: PCTC2
Well, I was going to post 3D renders of my project, then I never finished them.

But anyways, I just ordered the parts and they should be here next week some time.

I ordered:

Thermochill PA120.3 with Shroud
Swiftech ApogeeGTX w/ Copper Top
Swiftech MCP655
EK-250 Reservoir
EK-FC88GT (G92) GPU Block
Antec P190
Lots of YateLoons
Blue CCFLs, Window Kit, Dremel, nibbler, and switches
Zalman MFC2
Tygon 7/16" Tubing
IC Diamond TIM
UV Cables and Coils and cable wraps
Other "bling" for my case.

Can't wait for the stuff to arrive so I can start.... double checking my measurements that is.

sounds like fun but, next time, instead of throwing $2500 into a system why not throw $1500 into a system and the other $1000 into my pocket? you'll be within 10% performance and I know I'll sleep better at night.

 

[PCTC2]

haha. It was only $1500 so I think I'll just keep the extra $1000 you're talking about (that I don't have).

 

[ChefJoe]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: PCTC2
Well, I was going to post 3D renders of my project, then I never finished them.

But anyways, I just ordered the parts and they should be here next week some time.

I ordered:

Thermochill PA120.3 with Shroud
Swiftech ApogeeGTX w/ Copper Top
Swiftech MCP655
EK-250 Reservoir
EK-FC88GT (G92) GPU Block
Antec P190
Lots of YateLoons
Blue CCFLs, Window Kit, Dremel, nibbler, and switches
Zalman MFC2
Tygon 7/16" Tubing
IC Diamond TIM
UV Cables and Coils and cable wraps
Other "bling" for my case.

Can't wait for the stuff to arrive so I can start.... double checking my measurements that is.

sounds like fun but, next time, instead of throwing $2500 into a system why not throw $1500 into a system and the other $1000 into my pocket? you'll be within 10% performance and I know I'll sleep better at night.

You have to read his posts carefully (see top post and coming later). The major expenses in his system haven't been spent yet. He hasn't shelled out for the processor, half the ram, raid subsystem, 2nd 8800GTS, or HDTV tuner. Some of the parts he has running aren't in the build list at the top either. After that it'll cost 2500.

Your proposed system will be pretty nice and I wish you the best with your project, but we're not in suspense over ordering parts. More mod work, less neffing.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: ChefJoe

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: PCTC2
Well, I was going to post 3D renders of my project, then I never finished them.

But anyways, I just ordered the parts and they should be here next week some time.

I ordered:

Thermochill PA120.3 with Shroud
Swiftech ApogeeGTX w/ Copper Top
Swiftech MCP655
EK-250 Reservoir
EK-FC88GT (G92) GPU Block
Antec P190
Lots of YateLoons
Blue CCFLs, Window Kit, Dremel, nibbler, and switches
Zalman MFC2
Tygon 7/16" Tubing
IC Diamond TIM
UV Cables and Coils and cable wraps
Other "bling" for my case.

Can't wait for the stuff to arrive so I can start.... double checking my measurements that is.

sounds like fun but, next time, instead of throwing $2500 into a system why not throw $1500 into a system and the other $1000 into my pocket? you'll be within 10% performance and I know I'll sleep better at night.

You have to read his posts carefully (see top post and coming later). The major expenses in his system haven't been spent yet. He hasn't shelled out for the processor, half the ram, raid subsystem, 2nd 8800GTS, or HDTV tuner. Some of the parts he has running aren't in the build list at the top either. After that it'll cost 2500.

Your proposed system will be pretty nice and I wish you the best with your project, but we're not in suspense over ordering parts. More mod work, less neffing.

Thats exactly what I meant, once it's done with this initial build, instead of buying more parts he can just send me the money.

 

[MarcVenice]

Can someone explain the triloop build? I see 2x 3x120mm rads, right ? I suppose 1 does the mobo, 1 does the gpu ? Oh and I missed something, that's on top, right ? 1x120mm fan or something ? That's one wicked build I must say. Once built, how much time does it take to keep it clean, and how often do you have to refresh the water and all that stuff ?

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: MarcVenice
Can someone explain the triloop build? I see 2x 3x120mm rads, right ? I suppose 1 does the mobo, 1 does the gpu ? Oh and I missed something, that's on top, right ? 1x120mm fan or something ? That's one wicked build I must say. Once built, how much time does it take to keep it clean, and how often do you have to refresh the water and all that stuff ?

Sure, one loop is just for the CPU(blue). One is for the Graphics card(purpleish). And one is jsut for the NB/SB and mosfets(pink). The blue loop includes a 120.3 radiator at the bottom as does the purple loop. The pink loop is served by a 120.1 radiator at the top. It looks like the Blue loop is on an MCP655 and I can't tell what the other two pumps are.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: MarcVenice
Can someone explain the triloop build? I see 2x 3x120mm rads, right ? I suppose 1 does the mobo, 1 does the gpu ? Oh and I missed something, that's on top, right ? 1x120mm fan or something ? That's one wicked build I must say. Once built, how much time does it take to keep it clean, and how often do you have to refresh the water and all that stuff ?

the radiator needs to be blown out about 1-3months depending on dust conditions.

The coolant needs to be flushed anywhere from 3months to 1yr on the concentration of your additives. [more additives the longer the coolant lasts, however the cooling properties will decrease]

Keeping it clean... my Queen rig gets her coolant flushed every 3 months on cpu loop. 6 months on gpu loop. She's a dual loop, soon to become tri loop with a POST RAD chiller.

My NAS is a bit more saturated with additives so i do a flush every 6-8months.

I have fan filters on ALL intakes to radiators now so i dont need to dust them off frequently.



The reason why people split the board from everything else is because of the mosfets. Those things really heat up and can effect your cpu loop temps quite drastically. Thats why people tend to split it like that.

I personally dont see the need of h2o cooling mosfets and ram. A simple fan can take care of it and watercooling the mosfets has not shown any increase in overclocking or stability that a fan cant do.

 

[MarcVenice]

Thanks for the info.

 

[PCTC2]

Ewww. Awful V-Droop on my board. I know the specifications call for vdroop so the processor, when switching from load to idle doesn't peak over the max voltage as the increased current from load with a quick switch to idle can spike voltage. But It's 1.46 BIOS, 1.416 Windows, 1.376 P95 Load....

Anyways, I've got it temporarily set up in my P182 because I had to cancel my P190 order because of a bounced check. I am still waiting for my sleeving and fan controllers and switches next week so I haven't done any cable management.

 

[PCTC2]

Here's some pics from the build.

Leak Test

Leak Test 2

Getting it inside the case

The Loop

My ApogeeGTX w/ Cu Top

My EK-FC88GT

My Pump Placement. No more bottom fan...

Almost finished.... needs cabling and hdd drives in. Lights are on though...

Lights!

I'm not organizing this build too much cuz I'm going to migrate to a P190 soon with new hardware. Right now it idles around 28-32C. Loads around 50-55C. OCed to 3.2GHz (400*8) @ 1.46v BIOS, 1.41 Windows, 1.37 load. My 8800GTS G92 idles at 31-32C @ 780/1950/1000 (2000DDR). I haven't tested it's load yet.

And I by accidentally bowed my ApogeeGTX...

And I hate my 680i SLI. Asus P5E3 X38, here I come!

NOTE: The new EK-150 Rev 2 Reservoirs still suffer from cyclone effect.
NOTE2: EK Highflow barbs leaked on my ApogeeGTX Cu. I had to use the 1/2" barbs included with the block.

EDITED LINKS

 

[MarcVenice]

It looks monstrous ?

 

[PCTC2]

Originally posted by: MarcVenice
It looks monstrous ?

It's a little messy and crazy right now until I get my P190 (or another case, when I get the money) so I can mod the PA120.3 into the case. It's rather huge and I was too lazy to go out and buy brackets to rear-mount it.

The worst thing is, I lose a lot of waterlevel in my system but I've had papertowels on the whole system and I can't find any leak. It must be a micro-leak somewhere. Oh well.

 

[PCTC2]

How are you supposed to apply IC DIAMOND 7?!?!?!?!?!
That stuff is like putty. My application sucked so that's why my temps are not as great as they should be (but they're a lot better than my TR Ultra120).