Oxidizied / flaking clear coat solution,

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JCH13

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Sep 14, 2010
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So you waxed it start and end of summer, and then paint oxidized, ??

But you were and wanted to paint it those colours anyway, ?? at the end of the year,

The PO waxed it right before I took delivery of it in November 2010. I waxed it in the spring of 2011 and part-way through the summer of 2011. By fall 2011 it was oxidized on almost every upward-facing surface.

Oxidized paint typically winds up with a texture that soaks up moisture like a sponge. This moisture can result in rusting and rotting body panels. I had a decision to make: buff, polish, and wax several times per year to try and maintain a failing paint job, or have it re-done. I chose to have it redone, with a clear coat, to protect the body panels for many years.

Sure, I could have spent several hours every couple of months buffing, polishing, and waxing my car to stave off a new paint job. But my time is worth money to me. I would rather pay for a paint job that will look good for many years then spend [3 hr X 4 operations X 5 years] = 60 hours buffing, polishing, and waxing my car (not to mention the cost of consumables and tools). I can think of much better ways to spend that time.
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
484
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JCH13....I understand/empathize completely...I'm waxing to stave off the inevitable...

My "new-to-me" 05 Camry in the ubiquitous tan, has started to lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...

It will last another year of hot Florida sun, and regular waxing, but I'm sure by next summer it will need, and deserve, to be re-clearcoated and the degrading areas in the paint refinished...

I'm sure it will be a $1000 job...but it will be worth it...until then I've got some waxing to do...
 
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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
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91
JCH13....I understand/empathize completely...I'm waxing to stave off the inevitable...

My "new-to-me" 05 Camry in the ubiquitous tan, has started to lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...

It will last another year of hot Florida sun, and regular waxing, but I'm sure by next summer it will need, and deserve, to be re-clearcoated and the degrading areas in the paint refinished...

I'm sure it will be a $1000 job...but it will be worth it...until then I've plenty of waxing to do...

Yep! That's how it goes. I can't imagine how many times in FL you'd have to wax/buff to keep up with it... it's just so much wasted time and energy...
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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JCH13....I understand/empathize completely...I'm waxing to stave off the inevitable...

My "new-to-me" 05 Camry in the ubiquitous tan, has started to lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...

It will last another year of hot Florida sun, and regular waxing, but I'm sure by next summer it will need, and deserve, to be re-clearcoated and the degrading areas in the paint refinished...

I'm sure it will be a $1000 job...but it will be worth it...until then I've got some waxing to do...

Hey Kitatech,

Can you please tell me what colour your 05 Camry is,? :)
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Hey Kitatech,

Can you please tell me what colour your 05 Camry is,? :)

Read much? :hmm:

JCH13....I understand/empathize completely...I'm waxing to stave off the inevitable...

My "new-to-me" 05 Camry in the ubiquitous tan, has started to lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...

It will last another year of hot Florida sun, and regular waxing, but I'm sure by next summer it will need, and deserve, to be re-clearcoated and the degrading areas in the paint refinished...

I'm sure it will be a $1000 job...but it will be worth it...until then I've got some waxing to do...
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
377
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Read much? :hmm:



I have to tell you this is not the first time, i have had a bad flu,

But I will tell you this the first time I have had a bad flu and laughed so hard the :'( greenflu stuff is running out of my nose, :D, along with the tears running down my face, you are so funny mate, thanks,


:hmm:,,,,,,,:D.

I am laughing so hard I can not Google toyota paint specfication, "ubiquitous tan", is that a metalic,?

:D, or a sunburnt white, :D:D:D.
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
377
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41
JCH13....I understand/empathize completely...I'm waxing to stave off the inevitable...

My "new-to-me" 05 Camry in the ubiquitous tan, has started to lose its clear-coat in some areas, and some spots in the paint underneath are starting to oxidize...

It will last another year of hot Florida sun, and regular waxing, but I'm sure by next summer it will need, and deserve, to be re-clear coated and the degrading areas in the paint refinished...

I'm sure it will be a $1000 job...but it will be worth it...until then I've got some waxing to do...


I still cannot find any sort of Tan colour in the Toyota paint specs, but it really does not matter,

So, considering the above factors, regular waxing under a hot Florida Sun,

First thing that springs to mind is wax breaks down much faster in hotter conditions, so I am assuming say, 2 months, before it starts to lose its shine,

Also springing mind is as we all know, to do, “ and expect” to get a good wax job, you “ must” completely remove the previous last oxidizing wax job, let’s face it, there is no quick fix to “ wax job”,
In my opinion removing oxidized wax “can” only quickly done, by washing any and all wax/polymer polishes “ off” with any the “designed” solvents sold today, not hard to do,
Once you have removed the wax and the oxidized wax polish, without removing any of the actually clear coat or paint surface, you can access any and all oxidization in and on the clear coat or paint surface, a big plastic 10x magnifying glass helps,
If you find small or large areas of even slight or shallow /thin oxidization, they must be removed to whatever depth they are, , with a cutting compound that contains “ no wax or anything else” mixed with the cutting compound, the focus being to remove oxidization and hand buff/ shine the clear coat or paint surface,
My line of thought is it would be pointless to put a clear polish on an oxidized unpolished surface, it can only defuse the true colour shinning the polish clear coat,
So, I would suggest to new guys in the above situation or circumstances to buy the smallest plastic bottle of 3M regular light cutting compound, it is a machine cutting buffing compound, as well as being a very good hand cutting compound, and is easy to remove light oxidization, water soluble, and hand buffs to a perfect shine, unless there is still some oxidization there, so you just cut it with the fine compound until it is clean and buff shines, Without any polish to mask or disguise oxidation, ,
So the clear coat or solid paint surface shines, and under magnification shows a lot of clean fine scratches, no oxidation, invisible to the eye, and the perfect surface to apply any polish, any polish is forced in to the micro fine scratches for maximum grip on the paint or clear coat surface as the polish cures,

At this point please consider which polish you will apply now,
My suggest is not to use a polish that will oxidize in 2 months, My suggestion is use a very hard setting polymer, that contains NO WAX with very advanced Patented UV protection, from my experience of 17 years, I would suggest you will not need to remove any polymer oxidation for at least 2 years, just light detergent washing the car, and animal skin shammy dry to the best shine,
You will also note when applying Nu-Finish over and into stone chips that have a small rust ring around their tiny little stone chips butts, that nu-finish will quickly remove the rust ring by rubbing, and saturate the oxidizing metal surface on the bottom of the hole, during my experience over the last 17 years stone chips are sealed and stop oxidizing for many years, that is what I have experienced,
Also applies to scratches and surface areas with surface rust, please note I will show pictures soon of 3 small pieces of metal, 1, polished clean and shinny, 2, partly oxidized, 3, well covered in rust, I will then apply 2 ample coatings, now, and one more coat in three months, and every 12 months, of nu-finish, which I just so happen to know will seal metal from any further oxidation for at least 3 years,
Please, give it a go, I cannot begin to tell you how good it has been “ not” having to rub any wax on my and others cars for 17 years, Thank you God.
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
484
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I found a couple of cans of simple spray cleaning/polish/wax at a thrift shop, FW1 Racing Formula and had used it in the past for keeping the headlight plastic clear...worked great for that so I tried it on the camry's finish...and it's still beading after 4+ months...

lg24.jpg


"Tan" is what Toyota calls "desert sand mica"....

camff.jpg


It's still clean and smooth, but UNDER the clearcoat there are several spots of degrading paint...I'm okay for now...but...
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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Thanks, that makes it easier,
I agree,Very clean and smooth alright,



I was really surprised to see the colour, desert sand mica, very nice,


I have been looking at a white Camry that has been parking in our back parking lot, looks around the same year model as yours, I like the white colour cause it looks “ clean “,


But seeing yours, I like yours because it looks a really “clean and classy”, if you know what I mean,??,


You mention beading which reminds me that nu-finish is a really mad bead er too, which I have not previously mentioned,
I would say after looking at you headlights that the driver’s side looks “ not so crystal clear “, and suggest both could do with a plastic headlight buffing,


And also I would mention the reflection along the passenger’s side shows a little, “ not so crystal clear reflection, it looks good, but from my experience I think u could get a better mirror reflection, if you had a mind to. ( my compliments to you, for not having “ any door dents “, or shopping trolley dents visible there, that alone is a near miracle, 8 year old car,


I do not want to be pushy or anything, but I would like to get these points of my interest. across to the new guys, ,
You say “ UNDER the clearcoat there are several spots of degrading paint”,


1, makes me think that on many occasions I thought I was looking through the clear coat to see paint surface oxidizing, but I found it was only the surface of the clear coat only “just” oxidizing, as I sanded it, I do not know or have I seen the spots on your car you refer to, but I have had enough experience to say, it is just so very hard to tell, and the words “ optical illusion “ is a real key ,
So with that in mind, I would suggest with all respect, you could investigate further on a spot say a few inches by a few inches, before you spend the $1000 dollars on a clear recoat, ???.


I will also mention that I often buff, or sand and buff, light and heavy oxidized in small patches through the clear coat to good paint, on a bonnet, or roof, or boot, I do not remove the clear coat off the whole car, ( I only do that when I get paid to, that is a lot of work), then I lightly buff the whole car, then I apply the nu-finish polymer layer, and provided the polymer coating is applied every 1-2 years, there is never any problem, moisture, or rain does “not” suddenly seep under the whole clear coat , and lift the clear coat over the hole car, we have a lot of hot days, which does not affect the clear coat around a small sanded patch, the polymer coating seals it, of course the polymer coating eventually begins oxidize, but only on the surface,


( please note, I have been using this polymer for 17 years, and I will swear blind, that UV radiation does not get “through” it’s clear coat, and is absorbed at the surface,)


And please note that nu-finish is also a fine cutting liquid as well, so applying a coat of nu-finish over a 1-2-3 year old coat of nu-finish, cuts away or polishes away the or any oxidization that may be or is on the surface of the previous coating of new finish,


I refer back to the picture of the yellow Mazda and it’s oxidized dull surface, I just rubbed hard and nu-finish cut down the solid non- oxidized paint level ,and buffs the good paint surface, and you can see the mirror reflection finish there in the picture,


Anyway, sorry to bag on, I just trying to share with everyone,
Thanks again for posting the pictures, nice car.
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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Just picked up a polish job on a BMW bike ( smoked ) screen, I gave it a 30second buff, ( sorry I forgot to get pictures of the quick buff, ) and found minor pitted oxidization on the lower front section of the screen, , got some before pictures,










We have arranged that he will remove the screen and drop it off asap, and I will check the oxidized pitting again under magnification, but I think I will machine sand that local area with pitting with 180, for just a few minuties,
My line of thought is the pitting depth is around the scratch depth of p180, when sanded for a short period of a few minutes, then I will change the sanding pad to 600, for a few mins, which will begin to level out the surface just above the p180 scratches, then change the sanding pad to 1200 to further level out the surface approaching the bottom of the p180 scratches, then again change the sanding pad to 2000, to eliminate any all imperfections, then quick 3M buff, so I can then visually check for anything I have missed, if the surface shows no imperfections, I will then buff the back of the wind shield,


My experience is the back of a wind shield is rarely pitted, and is only has minor oxidization by engine fume and road grime circulated behind the screen, so, the back of any screen only needs to be buffed clean,
I “could” further buff with the next stage, plastic “ grade “polishing compound, but most contain a wax or a polymer polish additive, which is not like to be suitable for applying Nu-finish polymer coating, please note 3M contains no silicone, or waxes ,


Also please note, I have previously referred to my experience that applying nu-finish seals rust spots in stone chip holes and scratches,
I have prepared a ongoing test where I found 2 small pieces of rusted car body metal ,




And coated them with Nu-finish,





I will leave them for a few days in the sun to cure a little then recoat them with a fresh coat of nu-finish, allow that to cure in the sun for a few days more, and then begin to subject them to periodic wetting down with water. Then placed back in the sun,keep u updated.
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
484
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ino,uno,soweno....

Here's a close-up of the Camry's lights....they're okay for being 8yrs old....I do wax/polish them once a month...at least...whenever I have to "wax-off" bird droppings....They're standard halogens, and since I don't do much night driving they're okay even if they're not HIDs

g0pj.jpg
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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ino,uno,soweno....

Here's a close-up of the Camry's lights....they're okay for being 8yrs old....I do wax/polish them once a month...at least...whenever I have to "wax-off" bird droppings....They're standard halogens, and since I don't do much night driving they're okay even if they're not HIDs

g0pj.jpg

Wow, seeing your tricky picture opening up nearly threw me out of my chair, amazing, and quite a “ SHOCK “, I must admit I have looked at a lot of headlights, but never like that,


In future please post warning, “Next picture may cause old guys to have heart attacks “,


They do look great, and note if you are waxing them every week, they should look , that good,


Please consider, some of my random thoughts,


You did say the car was new to you, perhaps suggesting it had a very good life before you got it, ?? especially considering it looks near new, in my eyes your car and your efforts make the car look almost brand new, ( my hat is off to you, very good effort Sir, I sure you understand how it feels to arrive everywhere you go, in clean and class, )


I would give you % 99.99 on the head light, very nice,


As I have been writing this I just checked around the forum I found this,
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2331988


It is a fun read, a lot of people have fun putting a smile on everyone’s face and mine too , as I was reading it and bang, I saw the 3 last pictures, and realized this must be the guideline for measuring head and tail light restorations,


I mean check any headlight restorations with pictures of “ their car” in a dark car park with similar lighting, against any decent brand new car, or at any new car yard with their strong lights on at night,


You can see the blue car is much old then the silver car is new, please note older blue car head and tail lights are fuzzy, dull, most probably could do with a restoration that will still look a older car but will have the same crisp as new sharpness that new plastic has as shown in the silver car pic, and almost, just almost like your headlights,


I have a heap more written for you, I just have to try and un-jumble it a bit first, ,


In the mean time could you please show some pictures of your tail lights, please?.
Back asap.
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
484
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Here are the tails, and the other side, and a view from the driver's seat...

camx3.jpg


The Japanese built Camry's seemed to use a different "silver" on the interior housing than US built Camrys and Corollas (my neighbor's Corolla is the Camry's twin...and he got tinted after I had bought mine and pulled into the next space...)
...the plastic is still clear, just a "warmer" silver...and is as good as I can do...the car was garaged by the previous owner I believe...They are a bit less red than here (the shot was taken in morning light)

kycz.jpg
 
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ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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The 05 Camry's @ 105k miles now...170km....

Beauuuutiful, I would be happy for you to drive me anywhere and everywhere i usually have to go in that car, :biggrin:

%99.9 imaculate interior, beautiful, to me, it is not so much about having a new interior, it is all about my interior being "clean", so clean it looks new, ( I have a little mental disorder about sitting in someone else grim,)

Smooth shinny boot and rear quarters, mmmmmmmmmmm.

OK, Quicky Questions please.


Do u remove old wax before applying new coat, if so how, ??,



I assume you wax the tail lights, ?? they look so good I figure you must,
Wax the hubcaps, ??, they look so good I figure you must, and I can tell you they will buff up better than they are now, not sand or any of that, but a new shine,


Wax the Toyota badge on boot, ?? is it Very hard to get all of the wax type polishes out of the gaps,??.


OK, Just to be quick, please tell me if I can advice you on anything on your car, everyone can see your method works second best to mine, (smile )
So, I would not blame you if you were worried about how much more time you will have on your hands if you decide to change methods, (haha )
Another thing is I would like your permission to use your pictures in my computer, to show people I will always argue there are 2 ways to keep you 8 year old car looking as good %99 as the day it was made, yours and my methods,


Also I see on your car, a few, little things that could be “lets say” improved, or discussed,??.
I figure I can,


1, private message you and tell you, with my suggestions to easy fix,


2, post and share with the new guys,


Your choice,


Last but not least, do you own a buff, or drill, do you buff your wax with a electric buff??, do you paint the house??, make and sand wood furniture, ?? that sort of stuff, besides being an actual wax expert, ( the proff is in your pictures, please don’t get me wrong, some of us use and like drills, some of us do not want to start using electric for many good reasons,

;)
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
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Spray wax (FW1 cleaning wax), wipe and done...that's it...done with hand sponge a few old towels.

The only other thing I've done in the nearly 5 months since waxing...is wipe the morning rain/dew off 2x a week to keep any dirt accumulating on the top surfaces where sun and dirt would bake/dry out the finish...that keeps the flat surfaces smooth and the wax staying slick longer...
For tires, Meguiar's Hot Shine™ High Gloss Tire Coating that I brush on so it doesn't gloss.

Nothing more...
I've probably spent less time waxing/cleaning than most have posting here :)

The only "mods" I've done...tint, removal of name badges at the rear, cotton seatcovers from Habit for Humanity Restore, floor mats (upgrade carpet from my old Altima and rubber from ?) and a $7 steering wheel cover from W'mart.
 
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ino uno soweno

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Soundmanred
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ask the creeper stalking me.
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icon1.gif

Loving the 2+2 nonmatching rims.
Must be a trend with kids these days.
__________________
You really don't want to play in that playground.

The wheels are here, just need tryes,



The 2 wheels on each end "could" go on the GT4, the wheel in the centre is off the GTT, all, 17x7.
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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Spray wax (FW1 cleaning wax), wipe and done...that's it...done with hand sponge a few old towels.

The only other thing I've done in the nearly 5 months since waxing...is wipe the morning rain/dew off 2x a week to keep any dirt accumulating on the top surfaces where sun and dirt would bake/dry out the finish...that keeps the flat surfaces smooth and the wax staying slick longer...
For tires, Meguiar's Hot Shine™ High Gloss Tire Coating that I brush on so it doesn't gloss.

Nothing more...
I've probably spent less time waxing/cleaning than most have posting here :)

The only "mods" I've done...tint, removal of name badges at the rear, cotton seatcovers from Habit for Humanity Restore, floor mats (upgrade carpet from my old Altima and rubber from ?) and a $7 steering wheel cover from W'mart.

Hey, kitatech,

Sorry for taking so long to get back, been busy as, :sneaky:
You say,

.is wipe the morning rain/dew off 2x a week to keep any dirt accumulating on the top surfaces where sun and dirt would bake/dry out the finish..

I degusted to hear you leave the morning rain/dew the other 5 days of the week, is that vechular abuse, or something, :D just joking,

5 months is good for beading, for a wax, but it is the latest wax, and I am thinking, or hoping the the "cleaner" part is giving wax longer life, older waxes had a reputation for only lasting 3 months in my book,

The car looks very good, and you are happy with way your method, That is why I like your post,

Please note, someone, I think, is thinking I use wax like you, for that reason I would to clarify that I do not use wax. I do a totaly different method,

Bottom line is we are both happy, keep us posted please, :)
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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Update on the GT4 is I applied 2 coats of nu-finish beck in picture with the Stereoscope on the roof, I applied nu-finish some 4 or more weeks ago, maybe 6, ??.


This morning I looked at the roof and saw it was dirty, so I just grabbed the stainless steel scourer pad, and microfiber cloth, and buffed the dirt off the dirt and thought this is pretty much how I will clean the GT4 until can get it closer to water for a pressure clean,
Please note , while looking for a specific time , 4 weeks ago , I noted a wrong word, my spelling checker puts in the wrong word for me sometimes, sorry, and some extra info I would like to add at this time, [[[[[[[]]]]] like that,


I have in the past 15 years used the above magnification to observe small tests on how hard is this polymer surface compared to the slightly abrasive materials such as microfiber cloth, results were very fine rubbing marks can be made to dull the shine using too much force, but those can be buffed up again with much less force, best used to dry dust and buff, the microfibers swallow dust particles which removes dust factor and no stretching, [[[[vertically x virtually ]]]] a dust off dry wash from storage, excellent for bucket wash, [[[[( Bucket wash demo and pics coming, )]]]]]




Next is the stainless steel mesh pad, which dulls the polished polymer surfaces easy with some pressure, [[[[ or too much pressure]]] and also [[[ then ]]]] again buffs that dullness to the best shine, “with the lightest pressure” and removes tougher grime, mainly a lot of light buffing on a polished surface, please note, each s/s strand is thin and wide, I buy these pads at the supermarket, then my dog chews at them and sort of makes bigger, 2 maybe 3 times bigger, ( some dogs like balls, my dog lovers s/s pads, ??, anyway, as it has worked out the s/s sourer turns into a s/s fluff ball, in my observation as I am buffing the fact that the s/s fluff ball is a fluff ball result in a very light and lower pressure on the abrasive cutting or scratching abrasion on the surface of the hard polymer,



If I buff with a new, more tightly woven and packed s/s pad, it will scratch and dull the polymer surface,


I will get some pictures of new s/s pads to show anyone who thinks they might purchase nu=finish and conduct their own observation, as pictured, just remember to fluff in s/s pad before lighly buffing,
Also, please note, a warning, is that the s/s pad and the microfiber tend to dull and scratch the surface of a factory 2008 clear coat, sorry I should have brought this to your attention earlier, I buffed this white bumper and quickly saw the clear coat was getting duller,
…………
.


so please do not try s/s scourer pad, “ OR ANY SCOURER PAD ON “ ON WAXED clear coat, or any clear coat without having first applied nu-finish polymer,


So again to be clear, I only use the s/s scourer pad, and or microfiber on cured nu-finish to dry wash and wipe the dust off, over the whole car,
So, please note in this GT4 picture,
……



I have dry buffed the dirt off in a circler motion and left the roof un-buffed and dirty under the fluffed pad and the microfiber cloth,



Car location is in drive way of 20 heavy and industrial metal fabrication workshops, all constantly grinding and very dusty, traffic all day long,
Please note the definition and clarity of the mirror shine, in both left and right buffed areas, and under the remaining dirty areas not buffed, the clear mirror reflection shows the building and windows,


Next is another observation I thought to make today, pictures and info coming asap,


Also have a new to me set of head lights to buff, this has got to be a quick job, and asap,


Also heard report today there is local headlight cleaning service advertising $99 in free on line advertising, me thinks I might nose around and see if I can find out how busy he is,
Back soon, :)
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
484
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Next week will be 5 months with FW1 spray cleaner/wax....and last week my neighbor's Corolla got waxed....last night it rained and thought this might make for an interesting/fun sideXside...

oe68.jpg
 
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ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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Hey , Kitatech, that is one of those wide bodied “ Cam-olla “ hahah,

You are very straight with that wax line,
Thanks mate, great picture again,



I am thinking after seeing your all posts,

You must be a “wax junkie “. 5 weeks between fixes, ha ha.



Does your friend use same wax as you, and how about some pictures of his headlight lens, please.

Up-date on gt4, just getting it to shine better now, need a special wheel nut to change mags,






And Yesterday afternoon a guy comes to me telling a story about his friend being picked out by the local police for faded headlights, so he needed his done quick,
The top picture extensive fading, please note black strip on the top of the lenses has faded white,







Under picture shows first sand with electric orbital vibrating sander, p240, 5mins, then p600, few mins, then p1200, min, then p 2000 few mins, and buff,

Under side shows I concentrated the first p240 sanding centre left of the head light, as can be seen, and got deep enough to remove all oxidization, centre left section is clean and clear, centre to right side of lens is misty, up and close I can see oxidizing, far left blinker area shows misty appearance, indicating further sanding is required,


Next pic shows passenger side head light lense, fading all over, please again note, black strip is also fade dull white,







under picture shows, Running out of time, I sanded with p1500 and heavy buffed the light twice with 3M reg, misting shows light pitting, please note, black strip shows small imperfections, not jet black, indicating oxidation,
He is coming back to finish the headlights and oxidizing clear coat repair and buff, soon,new guys please note, I sand and buff, to locate or see if there in any oxidization, then resand and buff untill there is no pitting or bluring or misting left.



Next pic show 90s ute, bonnet dull, buff and cleanup required, get to it, asap,

 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
484
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Hey , Kitatech, that is one of those wide bodied “ Cam-olla “ hahah,

You are very straight with that wax line,
Thanks mate, great picture again,

I am thinking after seeing your all posts,
You must be a “wax junkie “. 5 weeks between fixes, ha ha.

5 months is waaaaaaay more than I expected without having to "work" for it...spray is just too easy...

Does your friend use same wax as you, and
how about some pictures of his headlight lens, please.

My neighbor just went to a car wash where they hand-waxed it...I don't know what wax they used...but we'll see how long it goes.
SEE post #113 above...his is an 08 Corolla LE..
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
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5 months is waaaaaaay more than I expected without having to "work" for it...spray is just too easy...



My neighbor just went to a car wash where they hand-waxed it...I don't know what wax they used...but we'll see how long it goes.
SEE post #113 above...his is an 08 Corolla LE..

You say,

5 months is waaaaaaay more than I expected without having to "work" for it...spray is just too easy...

JCH says,
Sure, I could have spent several hours every couple of months buffing, polishing, and waxing my car to stave off a new paint job. But my time is worth money to me. I would rather pay for a paint job that will look good for many years then spend [3 hr X 4 operations X 5 years] = 60 hours buffing, polishing, and waxing my car (not to mention the cost of consumables and tools). I can think of much better ways to spend that time.

Yep! That's how it goes. I can't imagine how many times in FL you'd have to wax/buff to keep up with it... it's just so much wasted time and energy...

I say, ?????????????.

Anyway Kitatech,

I am very happy to hear you are happy, and sharing this with us,

I wonder Is there any reason why you could not leave the next wax for another month,??. and make it, polish every 6 months, The car does look really good at 5 months,
20mins x 2 = 40minuties waxing, a year is certainly better than =60 hours a year,, ,​
Have you considered leaving the next wax until you can see and find some reason to “need” to wax it, as a observation, ??

I hope everyone (and JCH/black ) now realizes that i do not use any sort of wax in my methods, but please be assured " if " I ever lose my supply of nu-finish and have to change my method, ( which has worried me for 17 years,) I will be trying FW1 as first option, thanks to you.

And from when you first started posting, if anyone asks me, "which wax is the best". I tell them Kitatech is demonstrating how FW1 wax / CLEANER is lasting up to 5 months, and it looks good to me, DIY. actually 2 people have recently asked me about wax, and thanks to you I can confidently give them the facts on wax with a cleaner, (and the facts about wax addicts, haha,)

Kitatech, I am also very happy we have 2 and more coming choices of solutions,

I understand some solutions might not suit some people for many different reasons, so having you on this thread keeping us up-dated with FW1 is great, . I hope i am encouraging you to keep posting, and supply pics of your observations, which are always interesting, ,




You have %100 creditability rating with me,​


I was wondering how your friend’s headlights changed from foggy to bright and shiny in 113picture above, and now assume your friend had that fixed, where he had his car waxed, at the same time, maybe they gave it a professional sand buff and clear coat with Urethane, ??​


We are lucky you/we can keep an eye on how he progresses too,​
And please note the water beading on your car has more beads retained on the bonnet, then your friends car, he just had his waxed, yours is 5 month old, obviously they are in the same conditions, same rain fall,​


I wonder could you please ask your friend how much he paid, and if there was a fuss or more money paid to clear his headlights, ??,​


Also looking back at post 113, I see tiny white dots on the Corolla lens, ( almost no white dots on your lens ), I can assure you they are tiny stone chips, and wonder if you could just check on that by just running your finger nail on it, it should feel lumpy, next time your pass the car, please,​
 

kitatech

Senior member
Jan 7, 2013
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Here in Florida September is the peak month for hurricanes/rain at the highest winds, so putting a new coat of wax on it in Sept. will be wise I think....the next waxing would be in January just before I visit relatives who live on the ocean....waxing to protect against salty/sandy air...and again in March for the same reason (a different visit to different relatives also on the beach)....as I said, it's only a 20-minute spray and wipe with an old towel...easy...too easy....

The Toyota finish/clearcoat is staying smooth and the spray wax seems enough for now...I do expect in a couple of years (it will be 10 years old by then) it will need refinishing...and by then the car will be paid for so it will get a new "coat" for going out on the town...

My neighbor got a $30 wash-and-(hand)wax special and is VERY pleased....he's past doing such work himself and paying $30 three times a year is just fine with him....

His lights are crystal clear and he's done nothing to them...I am jealous though of the cool silver I see there...my warm-tone reflective surface looks "dull" in comparison, but the lenses are clear and that's as good as I can expect after 8 years....
 
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