"Official" DFI nF4 Ultra-D / SLI-DR Thread

[Dug]

Got my DFI ultra up and running this last week.
Most painless install I've done in a long time.

Waiting on new power supply before I overclock though. The ol' Antec 380w just ain't cuttin it anymore.

 

[deadseasquirrel]

Originally posted by: The Pentium Guy
Hey, Could you please give the link to your RAM (spam38) - and are you using Winchester?

That wll help a lot,
Thank you.

It sounds like exactly what I used with both my DFI builds-- an Ultra-D and an SLI-D. Corsair Value Select at the 'egg

 

[Snowice]

Originally posted by: mooncancook

mooncancook: Goodluck finding a 24pin PSU with removable lines. Oh and:

"Overclocking the DFI with a 20pin on anything less than 500 (600 if your running SLI), regardless of adaptor is highly dangerous. We do not recommend overclocking of any kind on a 20pin or 20pin adapted to 24 PSU." - DFI Support Email.

dang! that defeats the purpose of getting the DFI board. i guess i'll have to live without OC for awhile which is fine for now, and wait for a 24pin psu with removeable lines. hmm... sell my A8N-SLI and get a decent psu...

24pin psu with removeable lines....

Antec NeoPower 480w

OCZ ModStream 520w

TTGI Plug-N 550w


you choose

 

[tennesota]

Does anyone know why these DFI boards have extra power connectors [FDD-type/HDD-type] mounted directly to the PCB?

 

[Headd]

24pin psu with removeable lines....

Very nice. Not cheap but thank you for the information.

 

[Snowice]

Originally posted by: tennesota
Does anyone know why these DFI boards have extra power connectors [FDD-type/HDD-type] mounted directly to the PCB?

Search these messages

edit: link fixed

 

[CheesePoofs]

Originally posted by: Snowice

Originally posted by: tennesota
Does anyone know why these DFI boards have extra power connectors [FDD-type/HDD-type] mounted directly to the PCB?

Search these messages

that's a broken link.

I think the extra connectors are to provide more power for 2 cards when you have an sli setup, but i have also heard that they should be connected when you only have one card.

 

[hondAS2ooo170]

so this mob has probs witht eh corsair value select mem.

wat else?

 

[Snowice]

got a question. does anyone know what the pci express frequency is for in the bios? it's default setting is 100mhz, and you can up it to 400 somthing. has anyone messed with it? i've seen someone set it to 103. dont know why tho.

 

[deadseasquirrel]

Originally posted by: hondAS2ooo170
so this mob has probs witht eh corsair value select mem.

wat else?

I have 2 of these boards set up. 1 Ultra-D and 1 SLI-D. Both are using Corsair Value. Both are running perfectly.

One is my old man's. He's running a 3000+ @ 222 * 9x with a 180 divider (3200+ speeds). He doesn't want to do anymore than that.

The SLI is mine. My 3000+ is running at 2500mhz right now, RAM divider at 120 to keep the ram at 200mhz.

Both builds went fine. When my dad was messing with his post-build, the mobo wouldn't boot back into Windows (even after jumping the Safe Boot and clearing CMOS). So he had to do a fresh install and only use 1 stick of ram at the time of install, then was able to put in the 2nd stick after install. I've had no such issues.

 

[tennesota]

I found the information on the extra connectors. The text posted below is copied from a .pdf file available on DFI's web site.

"The HDD-type and FDD-type power connectors are additional power connectors. If you are using two graphics cards, we recommend that you plug power cables from your power supply unit into the two 5V/12V power connectors. This will provide more stability to the entire system. The system board will still work even if the additional power connectors are not connected."


The nf4sliultra manual can be found here

 

[wmansfield]

Originally posted by: Headd
wmansfield: what HSF are you using with your setup in your sig?

retail heatsink/fan

 

[Lundis]

I got my Ultra-D hooked up now with 3500+ Winchester, Powercolor X800XL
on a Enermax 433W psu. Tried some heavy gaming and stable as far as I can see.
Temprature on idle is amazing (havnt been able check it at load). Dual channel was a no go. Didnt like that 1 dimm was Samsung and 1 was Crucial.
But now to my question. In Smartguardian it say my CPU voltage is 1.07V in red.
Is that bad or is that what it should be?

Lundis

 

[Rhiridflaidd]

1.7 is a high voltage - unless you have watercooling, drop it down to default - and quick.
if it is 1.07, that's low. ? your PSU is struggling.


Default is 1.4v I run my cpu at 1.55v (but the onboard detects 1.52)

105 pci express frequency is working fine for me - that's what the DFI gurus suggest for ATI cards- and 101-102 for nvidia.

 

[Rhiridflaidd]

Originally posted by: toezar
It's likely that i'm doing something wrong, but i'm not having much luck overclocking my cpu so far. Here are my specs:

Dfi nF4 Ultra-D
3000+ with xp-90
Raid 0: Two ata 160gb seagates.
Twinmos 2x512ddr pc-3200 (winbond utt)
SB audigy 2zs
msi 6600gt

The system boots and works fine at 210mhz bus speed. But when I try 220mhz, it freezes (it just keeps restarting, windows never loads). Even when I set the ram multiplier to 3/4, and turn cpu voltage to 1.6 (up from about a 1.35 or maybe 1.4 voltage default) windows doesn't boot (it gives me a variety of error messages about corrupted/missing files or it keeps restarting--maybe my raid is failing to work at these higher speeds?). Maybe I need to set the LDT/FSB frequency ratio lower? What exactly is this setting?

LDT is the multiplier for the onboard memory controler.
The equasion goes memory speed x LDT x2 if ddR = speed of memory contoller.
(Also known as htt- hypertransport bus)

Rule of thumb the controller doesn't work at speeds a lot faster than 2000

So at 1:1 memory at 230 FSB, the LDT needs to be eased back to x4

But you are running a 3/4 divider - memory = 172.5 mhz. at 230 Hz -and the PC still ain't stable, and it ain't the HTT.

Let's look at the 230 3:4 scenario in more detail

So.....
it's either
a. Your memory ain't happy being underclocked - try the 9/10 divider, and run the memory at 207mhz - you know your memory is stable at stock voltages between 200 and 210 (Your Htt though is >2000 and for stability, i'd reduce the LDT multi to x4)

b. If you still have no joy, you at least know for certain it's not the memory, and giving the processor a lilttle more volts is the next step.

c. If still no joy, upping the ldt voltage by .1v, could help. Also try the same with the chipset and memory.

If still no joy, then I'd get the 201 beta bios off the DFI website (as a first step instead of a less official release) After getting the new bios, you need to load optimised defaults in each page for the new bios to work propperly.

If the timings still ain't stable, drop back to 210, leave the divider at 9\10, and up things gently to 220 then 230.

 

[Bonesdad]

Originally posted by: Headd
I believe I have only seen 1 post about purchasing the bundle over at Monarch. Is this not a good deal?

I'm tempted to go with the Ultra D, 3200 90nm (939) Retail w/ Fan, and their thermal grease and it comes out to $354.00. I was also leaning towards the Corsair but after just reading these 20+ pages I'm hesitant now. What RAM would you recommend?

I'm also concerned about the temps. Is anyone running the retail fan? If so please post your temps.

I've been meaning to get Far Cry & HL2, but never had the system to run them., so this is even better to me personally.


EDIT: Also I have the Thermaltake Silent PurePower 420W Dual Fan ATX PSU ,how would I tell how many pins it is w/o opening the case?
20 Pins - Thanks wmansfield

I just ordered my bundle from them...with games and Napster. Ordered Monday, in transit now. Delivery tomorrow (Thursday). Had no problems with Monarch. Guess what I'm doing Friday?

 

[spam38]

Originally posted by: The Pentium Guy
Hey, Could you please give the link to your RAM (spam38) - and are you using Winchester?

That wll help a lot,
Thank you.

Here's the RAM
Yes, I've got a Winchester.

 

[The Pentium Guy]

Thanks, but it looks like others are having problems with this RAM .... did you increase the voltage or anything?

 

[hondAS2ooo170]

Originally posted by: deadseasquirrel

Originally posted by: hondAS2ooo170
so this mob has probs witht eh corsair value select mem.

wat else?

I have 2 of these boards set up. 1 Ultra-D and 1 SLI-D. Both are using Corsair Value. Both are running perfectly.

One is my old man's. He's running a 3000+ @ 222 * 9x with a 180 divider (3200+ speeds). He doesn't want to do anymore than that.

The SLI is mine. My 3000+ is running at 2500mhz right now, RAM divider at 120 to keep the ram at 200mhz.

Both builds went fine. When my dad was messing with his post-build, the mobo wouldn't boot back into Windows (even after jumping the Safe Boot and clearing CMOS). So he had to do a fresh install and only use 1 stick of ram at the time of install, then was able to put in the 2nd stick after install. I've had no such issues.

is there any other issues i need know about?

 

[imported_doc007]

What's a good program to monitor diod temps not that Mobo Monitor isn't updated anymore?
How about a program to tweek voltages and clock speeds from windows that supports NF4?

 

[Snowice]

Originally posted by: Rhiridflaidd
105 pci express frequency is working fine for me - that's what the DFI gurus suggest for ATI cards- and 101-102 for nvidia.

thanks for the info!!!

 

[Headd]

Originally posted by: Bonesdad

Originally posted by: Headd
I believe I have only seen 1 post about purchasing the bundle over at Monarch. Is this not a good deal?

I'm tempted to go with the Ultra D, 3200 90nm (939) Retail w/ Fan, and their thermal grease and it comes out to $354.00. I was also leaning towards the Corsair but after just reading these 20+ pages I'm hesitant now. What RAM would you recommend?

I'm also concerned about the temps. Is anyone running the retail fan? If so please post your temps.

I've been meaning to get Far Cry & HL2, but never had the system to run them., so this is even better to me personally.


EDIT: Also I have the Thermaltake Silent PurePower 420W Dual Fan ATX PSU ,how would I tell how many pins it is w/o opening the case?
20 Pins - Thanks wmansfield

I just ordered my bundle from them...with games and Napster. Ordered Monday, in transit now. Delivery tomorrow (Thursday). Had no problems with Monarch. Guess what I'm doing Friday?

What did you get in your bundle? Did you RAM there as well; if so which?

The bundle + RAM + new power supply... this is getting expensive. (for me at least)

 

[imported_Kiltz]

I'm thinking about purcheasing the DFI Lanparty Nf 4 Ultra one but, I saw this,http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=NzE3LDc=, read Kyle's thoughts. So I was wondering, is the DFI Nf 4 Ultra stable since the review was about the SLI one. THANKS.

 

[mooncancook]

Originally posted by: Snowice

Originally posted by: mooncancook

mooncancook: Goodluck finding a 24pin PSU with removable lines. Oh and:

"Overclocking the DFI with a 20pin on anything less than 500 (600 if your running SLI), regardless of adaptor is highly dangerous. We do not recommend overclocking of any kind on a 20pin or 20pin adapted to 24 PSU." - DFI Support Email.

dang! that defeats the purpose of getting the DFI board. i guess i'll have to live without OC for awhile which is fine for now, and wait for a 24pin psu with removeable lines. hmm... sell my A8N-SLI and get a decent psu...

24pin psu with removeable lines....

Antec NeoPower 480w

OCZ ModStream 520w

TTGI Plug-N 550w


you choose

Nice selections there! I guess i'll be selling my 20 pin PSU. The 550W one looks nice, highest power rating amoung the 3, and the cheapest, does it mean it's crap? i know antec and OCZ are reputable.

 

[shira]

I've read that you need to set the DFI MB's 5-volt jumper in order to enable memory voltage settings above 3.2 volts. But I've also read that if a 5-volt line from the PSU is applied to the DRAM's voltage supply connection on the MB (and if you intend to reliably apply more than 3.2 volts or so, you need to use a 5-volt line), you can get considerable heating of the MOSFETs. This apparently occurs because of the difference between the applied voltage and the actual voltage used (with the excess voltage going to heating).

So I'm wondering if there's some way to reliably and safely divide down the 5 volts (say, to 3.7 volts [which would provide a safe margin if I wanted to apply 3.5 volts to the memory, OCZ VX]) in order to minimize this heating.