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"Official" DFI nF4 Ultra-D / SLI-DR Thread

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Originally posted by: ryant

Do you think itll be ok running this with a 400W 20pin? I only have the 1 6600, a 160 WD and a Pioneer109 as well as 3200 Athlon...?
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Yes. Just make sure you plug the 20-pin connector in correctly. You should be fine.

 
Ta, and hell yeah...

OK Ive got the DFI to POST.

A word of advice: The board has a number of auxilary connectors. Im sure you can get away with using the 20pin in the 24 socket, as long as you plug in a 12v standard molex which privodes auxilary power to the board.

The CPU and chipset fans did not start up without this connector in.

Finally, in some cases you must reset the CMOS though the jumper settings on the side of the board before you get video in you POST. Also make sure that the beeper jumper (which is OFF by default) is change so you can listen to RAM / GFX errors.
 
If you get the 510 you'll need a 4-pin to floppy adaptor if you're going to have a FDD 'cause it's only got 1
 
Questions:

1) I have 3200+, 6600gt PCI-express, 2x160 sata, DVD-R, DVD-RW, FD. My psu is enermax 470 which has only 20 pin. Should I use an adaptor to 24 pin?

2) On Karajan module there is a connection for front audio which is jumpered. should I unjumper it in order to connect my front audio cable? I have just 2 speakers which I will connect to the back of my PC but I am interested to find out if I can have the 2 (front and rear) connections working at the same time.

3) What is the "sound" connector on right-down corner just on the side of the led connectors?

4) Does it matter how you connect the led connectors (I mean red-white cables position).

thanks in advance
 
1. Im running mine on a 400W thermaltake, 20pin connector without an adaptor. (3200+,Pio109, 160WD,6600 PCX). Run the extra two molex connections for auxilary power and the board seems to run stable.

2. You can choose between jumpered and unjumperd. If you choose jumpered, the back audio will work and you cannot physically connect any front audio cables. If you choose unjumpered, you can connect fron audio cables, but there will be no connection for back audio.

3. There is no sound connector on the bottom- right of the board. I can only think that you must have seen the schematic or overall view of the mobo's onboard speaker.

4. You cant interchange between the front-leds. This is because the HDD-LED is a 2 pin connector and the PWR-LED is a 3 pin connector.
 
Originally posted by: ryant
1. Im running mine on a 400W thermaltake, 20pin connector without an adaptor. (3200+,Pio109, 160WD,6600 PCX). Run the extra two molex connections for auxilary power and the board seems to run stable.

The 20 pin must be in the center of the 24 pin connection??? So, I must leave space in both sides of the 24 pin?


3. There is no sound connector on the bottom- right of the board. I can only think that you must have seen the schematic or overall view of the mobo's onboard speaker.

Yes. It is the onboard speaker. Should I connect this? With what?

4. You cant interchange between the front-leds. This is because the HDD-LED is a 2 pin connector and the PWR-LED is a 3 pin connector.

I am speaking about the right position of each of them. "Where is the red cable, right or left" etc
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Originally posted by: ryant
1. The 20 pin must be in the center of the 24 pin connection??? So, I must leave space in both sides of the 24 pin?

3. Yes. It is the onboard speaker. Should I connect this? With what?

4. I am speaking about the right position of each of them. "Where is the red cable, right or left" etc
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1. You'll find if you look closely at the connector and the socket theres only one way the connector can physically go in. This is by leaving 4 pins free at one end of the 24 pin socket open and lining up the clip on the socket and the plug. Youll notice that the clip on the socket isnt in the socket's exact centre.

3. Its an onboard speaker. It just is. Theres nothing to plug, it beeps when it must. It beeps when the jumper is connected. Sometimes it does long beeps. Sometimes it does short beeps. You never know. I think youll find that the standard for onboard speakers. 🙂

4. Pass. I officially have no clue what you're talking about.
 
Originally posted by: shira
Newegg has dropped its price on the Ultra-D to $159, shipped. Sales must have slowed down.
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probably due to the protective reaction by nVidia.

anyway, there is one HDD and one FDD aux connection build into the board, do it need to connect them with my psu? i've never seen such things built into a mobo...
 
I've had my Ultra-D for about a week now and haven't really been able to do much with it. The first problem is when I opened the box to find the onboard power and reset switches smashed, all of the pins for the hdd leds and power switches bent forward and the 8 channel audio connector cracked. This is all courtesy of ZipZoomFly I know of at least 1 other person who's board arrived in this condition. I thought at first it happened during shipping but the box it arrived in was in great shape and the board was well packaged. I have since tried to RMA it but according to ZZF's policy they will not take back any physically damaged items. Problem #2 my OCZ3200EL Rev2 will not work in this board whatsoever I found out on the DFI forum that any board shipped with the Bios dated 1-25 will need to flash to the 2-1 bios. There are some more things that I'll post later.
 
Originally posted by: Tyson95
I've had my Ultra-D for about a week now and haven't really been able to do much with it. The first problem is when I opened the box to find the onboard power and reset switches smashed, all of the pins for the hdd leds and power switches bent forward and the 8 channel audio connector cracked. This is all courtesy of ZipZoomFly I know of at least 1 other person who's board arrived in this condition. I thought at first it happened during shipping but the box it arrived in was in great shape and the board was well packaged. I have since tried to RMA it but according to ZZF's policy they will not take back any physically damaged items. Problem #2 my OCZ3200EL Rev2 will not work in this board whatsoever I found out on the DFI forum that any board shipped with the Bios dated 1-25 will need to flash to the 2-1 bios. There are some more things that I'll post later.
Click to expand...

Does it work with the new bios?

 
The voltage controls for the DRAM aren't working it will not move past 2.6 and I'm using some PC4000 EL Gold. I'm gonna flash the Bios right now and hopefully that takes care of it. I was hoping that I could talk to someone at ZipZoomFly so I could get a different board.
 
Originally posted by: Tyson95
I've had my Ultra-D for about a week now and haven't really been able to do much with it. The first problem is when I opened the box to find the onboard power and reset switches smashed, all of the pins for the hdd leds and power switches bent forward and the 8 channel audio connector cracked. This is all courtesy of ZipZoomFly I know of at least 1 other person who's board arrived in this condition. I thought at first it happened during shipping but the box it arrived in was in great shape and the board was well packaged. I have since tried to RMA it but according to ZZF's policy they will not take back any physically damaged items. Problem #2 my OCZ3200EL Rev2 will not work in this board whatsoever I found out on the DFI forum that any board shipped with the Bios dated 1-25 will need to flash to the 2-1 bios. There are some more things that I'll post later.
Click to expand...


I'm glad that you and the other early adopters are ferreting out the bugs. I don't have the confidence or patience to deal with these issues. I'm going to wait a couple of months (or maybe longer; depends on when Venice is out) before I get the Ultra-D. I hope by that point setting up my new system will have become a no-brainer (and the prices will be lower, too).
 
About the led's I think it does. The colored wire is usually +. If they don't light up just flip them around the other way.
 
Does anyone have their board running yet?

Can you tell me whether the heatsink/fan on the motherboard is noisy? I'm trying to build an absolutely quiet system.

Thanks.
 
Does the Antec NeoPower480 have a 24pin connector, you guys think it would be a good choice PSU for the DFI Ultra-D. I'm planning on ordering mine the first day monarch has them in stock, getting a combo with a a64 3500+ 90nm and a gig of corsair pc3200 twinx xlpro. ^^
 
So if I plan to not overclock that much and am inexperienced at troubleshooting/BIOS flashing, what would be better, A8N-SLI or DFI-SLI?
 
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