New Semi Ubuntu/Windows 7 (light)game PC

[kefegg]

Hi Guys,

Im pretty new at this forum but I read allready a lot of posts. And because of planning to build a new PC I would like your advice.

1. What YOUR PC will be used for.
My pc will run most of the time on Ubuntu. Usage will be Multimedia (like playing DVD, mp3, Youtube vids,...), Office apps and developing Android software.
For the rest it will have to run Win7, for the kids and the wife. They use the PC for allround application, Photoshop CS3, internet, email and playing some games. (They would like to play Crisis and BlackOps)

2. What YOUR budget is.
1166-1450 dollar (800-1000 euro)

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
Belgium or The Netherlands

4. IF YOU have a brand preference.
Nvidia (for compatibility with Linux), Intel for there Sandy processors

5. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
Only Hardware, like mice, 17" screen, Laserprinter and speakers.

6. IF YOU have searched and/or read similar threads.
Yep, but I have still some questions

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
I'm not an OC'er but I would like to have the possibility to OC if software between now and 6 years demand so.

8. What resolution YOU plan on gaming with.
I'm running on 1280*1024, I'm planning to buy a Liyama 21"-22"" screen, I guess max resolution will be full HD

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Somewhere around end of June.


This is what I have in mind:

*CPU Socket 1155
Intel® Core™ i5-2500K
4x 3300 MHz

*GPU
MSI N460GTX Hawk
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460, 1024 MB, 256 Bit, PCIe x16 v2.0

*PSU
Cooler Master Silent Pro
700 Watt, ATX 2.03, EPS, ATX12V 2.3, 9 x, 4 x

*Midi Tower Case
?????????????????


*DVD-reWriter Serial-ATA
Sony AD 7260S

*MOBO Socket 1155
GIGABYTE GA-P67A-UD3-B3 (rev. 1.1)
Intel® H67 Express, ATX, 2x PCIe 2.0 x16, CrossFire, 1155

*Hdd 3,5 inch SATA
Samsung HD502HJ 500 GB
500 GB, 8,9 / 16 / 7200, € 0,08*, Serial ATA/300
(2 of these HDD, one for Win7 and one for Ubuntu)

*Memory DDR3-1333
Geil 8GB DDR3-1333 Kit
Light retail GVP38GB1333C9DC Value+

*Win7 64Bit Home edition

1. The PC Case Is a big question.
I'm Running an Antec NSK now, which is pretty quit but Airflow is not so good.
I'm looking for a case that offers both, pretty quit and good airflow.
Do I have to have USB3 in front panel?

2. The Mobo is also a question. I don't prefer a brand, I just selected this one from a site who gave this some good reviews.

3. The GPU, if the price is worth it, I would go for the N560GTX-TI TWIN FROZR II/OC,N560GTX-TI TWIN FROZ.
Benchmarks gave me some good info but is it a big difference in real?

4. If not OC, would the standard CPU cooler cool enough?



Al hints and tips would come in very handy.


Kind Regards,



Kef

 

[Puppies04]

3. The MSI gtx560 TI twin frozer is a nice card, i have decided on one for my new build. The reviews i have come across rate it for it's excellent cooling.

4. The standard intel cooler is absolutly fine if you arent going to OC and would even handle a mild OC

 

[kefegg]

3. The MSI gtx560 TI twin frozer is a nice card, i have decided on one for my new build. The reviews i have come across rate it for it's excellent cooling.

I've been reading also a lot about the 560, only downside I came across was that the cooling blows all the heat right into the computercase. So A decent case with a good airflow is a must have.

 

[mfenn]

You've got a pretty good build so far. To answer your questions:
1. You don't have to have a USB 3.0 port in the front panel unless you want to use it. Cases with USB 3.0 ports are still somewhat thin on the ground, so you might want to get something that fits into a 3.5" or 5.25" bay and provides USB 3.0 ports (like this). The Antec Three Hundred is popular and has pretty decent airflow.
2. The UD3 is my standard recommendation, so you did good there.
3. The GTX 560 is a decent amount faster, but also costs more. I'd say that $155 for a GTX 460 or $200 for a GTX 560 are both fair prices. You'll just have to decide if the extra performance is worth it to you.
4. Yes

As for the rest of the build, everything looks fine except for the PSU. 700W is extreme overkill on wattage and the Cooler Master isn't very high quality. Look for a Antec, XFX, or Seasonic in the ~500-500W range.

 

[kefegg]

If ever needed I would go for that kind of USB3 solution.

The choice for gpu is made, 560 it will be. For what I read it can handle most games on pretty much the highest resolution and qualitysettings on max.

For the motherboard much people have a Asus or Asrock. But because of having a malfunction laptop from Asus if preferred an other brand, so only MSI or gigabyte would be bought. Good choice?
I don't really prefer a brand but I dislike Asus.

The psu is indeed a little to much but also because of reading different posts I supposed that to much is not so bad. I check xfx's for a decent one.
EDIT: I checked XFX and because I want a psu with cablemanagement it will be a 650w psu.


Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

 

[fffblackmage]

For the motherboard much people have a Asus or Asrock. But because of having a malfunction laptop from Asus if preferred an other brand, so only MSI or gigabyte would be bought. Good choice?
I don't really prefer a brand but I dislike Asus.

Every brand will occasionally make a lemon. Any of the brands you mentioned are fine.

The psu is indeed a little to much but also because of reading different posts I supposed that to much is not so bad. I check xfx's for a decent one.
EDIT: I checked XFX and because I want a psu with cablemanagement it will be a 650w psu.

It's not like an overkill PSU is a particularly bad thing, but you're the one who'll end up paying for extra wattage you'll likely never use. Electricity bill might be slightly higher as well, since you'll be sitting at the low end of the load range, where the PSU's efficiency is lowest.

Seriously, 500W is already more than you need. But if you find a good deal on a larger PSU (but equal or better quality!), sure, why not?

 

[kefegg]

I understand that bad luck can happen to anybody, but it always feels like you (in this case me) are the only one with that amount of bad luck.
And in my laptop case it might be more of a "aftersales" problem than just the brand.

About the PSU: I thought I was right but I guess I'm wrong... so for tose who are good in numbers, please help me out.

I thought that if you buy a (example) 600W PSU (80plus) it means that the PSU can deliver a max amount of 600Watt. But it don't mean that you actually use that amount continously.

If i use the Antec PSU calculator and I select what I'm planning to buy with in mind: Blueray, a cable tv card and some usb devices that use power from that usb, I get a recommendation of minimum 507Watt.
So That leaves me, for what is available in the store where I wanna (can) buy everything:
Antec high current gamer 620
Antec true power 650
Zalman zm600 hp, st or rs
OCZ modxStream pro 600
Seasonic m12 620

Other brands like thermaltake, coolermaster,... get good reviews, deliver less than 600watt but they where not that high quality.

 

[fffblackmage]

I thought that if you buy a (example) 600W PSU (80plus) it means that the PSU can deliver a max amount of 600Watt. But it don't mean that you actually use that amount continously.

It doesn't.

When I said you're paying for extra power you don't need, I'm talking about efficiency.

Your rig will probably use ~350W at most. (I'm using the number from this review) Some headroom is absolutely fine, but having too much headroom just means you're paying for something extra you probably won't use (unless you found a good deal on a larger PSU).

Newer CPUs and GPUs have excellent idle power consumption. The review I have linked shows idle power consumption at 161W, but I believe those numbers illustrate the relative power consumption between graphics cards and do not reflect real-world expectations. My own rig with the 5870 consumes only around ~100W on idle according to my Kill-A-Watt meter. Under stock configuration, your rig with the i5-2500k and GTX560 will likely use less power than my rig during idle (>100W).

Now, 80 plus certification only requires PSUs have at least 80% efficiency from 20-100% load. 20% load for a 600W PSU means you'd be guaranteed at least 80% efficiency when you have 120W or greater load. Less than that and you'd probably be seeing less than 80% efficiency.

Source: Anandtech article - Debunking Power Supply Myths

Practically all PSUs will follow a similar curve. Under light loads, the efficiency drops off.

What does it mean? If you have an overkill PSU, you're more likely to sit under 20% load where efficiency is poorest. So you'd pay for burning a few more watts than necessary, on top of paying for a beefier PSU in the first place.

Some people would argue that extra power means you'd at least have room for future upgrades. The problem with this argument is that maximum power consumption in a typical computer has hit a ceiling. Instead of using more power, performance of each subsequent generation of GPUs and CPUs have increased through significantly improved efficiency (doing more work per watt).


I've actually tried very hard to max out my 500W PSU with my current rig. I set my max CPU overclock - 3.6GHz at 1.475V (not something I would use for 24/7 use), and pushed my 5870 just past 1GHz with a pretty high voltage of 1.3V or so (also another setting I would not keep for 24/7 use).

I ran Furmark and Prime64 to get the max load on the CPU and GPU, and this resulted in about ~500W of power consumption from the wall. From the wall. Let's assume my PSU was running at 80% efficiency - which means it was only outputting about
400W. I still had some headroom left.


In your case, I wouldn't buy the 600W PSU unless it's equal or better in quality and it's the same price as the 500W PSU.

Are you in the USA btw? If you are, I would get this:

$70 ($45 after promo and rebate) - Antec NEO ECO 620C
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371031

Antec high current gamer 620
Antec true power 650
Zalman zm600 hp, st or rs
OCZ modxStream pro 600
Seasonic m12 620

Out of your list, I like the Antec HCG and True Power, and the Seasonic. Not so sure about Zalman PSUs, and OCZ PSUs are only just decent. IMO anyways.

 

[mfenn]

If i use the Antec PSU calculator and I select what I'm planning to buy with in mind: Blueray, a cable tv card and some usb devices that use power from that usb, I get a recommendation of minimum 507Watt.

Take a glance at fffblackmage's excellent post for more detail, but I'll add this tidbit: Never trust a power supply calculator provided by somebody who is trying to sell you a power supply.

 

[kefegg]

I must say that building a pc is getting more interesting then I thought
fffblackmage's post makes it more clear for me, and probably you're right about the calculator.

So, I'm not from US and I have just 2 shops to select from and they have these models available in the 500-580W range (better quality).
Antec:
EA 500D Green
BP 500U
HCG 520
TP 550
BP 550

SeaSonic:
X560
S12 energy+ 550
M12 II 520 Bronze

If you guy's can give me you're advice what PSU will be the best/most suitable (I would like to have the cable manage thing to make my case clean and ensure a good airflow), yhat would be wonderfull.

By the way, the Kingston Value Ram is also good, right? Because I think it's stupid to pay extra for a brand's name and have just like about 0.0001% extra speed.
And should it be necessary to buy an extra 120mm fan (for the antec 300) for cooling the GPU?

If I know all this, I'm gonna make my order begin next week and as soon as the parts have arrived I can post some building pictures.

My son took a look at Nvidia's website and he is pretty happy about the gtx560TI.
"I'm finally gonna play good games in high res and no lag"

 

[dma0991]

The Seasonic X560 is very good in terms of quality. I highly recommend that you get it.

I wouldn't say that performance RAMs do not have a place in the market but if you want to overclock and benchmark, performance RAM helps with that requirement. If you would want to bump the CPU speed a little bit higher than stock the Value RAMs will do just fine and works well for the majority of mainstream users.

Get some case fans if you would like to improve case airflow but get silent fans if you could.

 

[betasub]

By the way, the Kingston Value Ram is also good, right? Because I think it's stupid to pay extra for a brand's name and have just like about 0.0001% extra speed.

IValue RAMs will do just fine and works well for the majority of mainstream users.

This. The Kingston (1333?) is fine.

As for an extra case-fan: this is easy to add in later, if you desire. The Antec300 (that you are looking at) has good air-flow with its stock fans, and these can be replaced/relocated if you aren't happy with the base configuration.

 

[kefegg]

-Yep, the Kingston 1333 Value 2*4gb. They are not the cheapest but they get the best reviews.
-I guess that the verdict is made: http://azerty.nl/winkelmandje/winkel...%5B232977%5D=2
This will be my order with a total amount of 1,297 USD (€875)

As soon as I get everything in my hands I start to make it work.
Because of curiosity I decided to build my system myself and safe me some money.
Should I be worried about something except static electricity? For the rest I guess it's all like plug and play, just not plug in to hard :\

 

[dma0991]

If you're worried about static electricity just spend a few bucks getting a wrist strap for some peace of mind. I have never had any issues regarding static electricity till now and I do not wear any form of protection against ESD. Do your build on a hard surface like tiles and not on carpets which would just increase the possibility of static.

As for the computer parts, if it doesn't fit don't force it. Based on my experience if you hear your CPU creaks like it is going to break as you tighten down the lever of the socket don't worry about it as long as you align your CPU correctly to the socket.

 

[mfenn]

The Seasonic X560 is very good in terms of quality. I highly recommend that you get it.

It is very good, but also very expensive. I'd recommend getting either the Earthwatts 500, HCG 520, or S12II 520; whichever is less expensive.

 

[kefegg]

Grrrr, finding "the" power supply is pretty hard.
I hope this is a good one: Antec TP550. It's modular, 48A@12V and it's got a 80+ bronze label.
And the price is a little less than the SS x560

 

[mfenn]

Grrrr, finding "the" power supply is pretty hard.
I hope this is a good one: Antec TP550. It's modular, 48A@12V and it's got a 80+ bronze label.
And the price is a little less than the SS x560

Yes, it's good.

 

[kefegg]

Guy's,

I placed my order this afternoon and I received an email from the store that they have a problem with the delivery of the Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3 motherboard.
Now I have to wait some time or they offered me one of these 2 mobo's:

Asus P8P67 Pro and the Asrock P67 Extreme4.

So, should I wait some time or could I take one of those without any problems? If yes, which suites the best?
I've been reading http://www.anandtech.com/show/4130/the-battle-of-the-p67-boards-asus-vs-gigabyte-at-190 but I still like to here what you all think.

Thanks again

 

[mfenn]

Will they sell either of them to you at the price of the UD3? If so, I'd get the P8P67 Pro. If not, I'd get the P67 Extreme4.

 

[kefegg]

Not for the same price but they give me 15% discount on the Asus so it comes at the same price as the AsRock. (Guess they rather want to sell Asus components :\)

 

[dma0991]

ASRock is a good board but since there is a 15% discount on the Asus board to make it cost the same as the ASRock I suggest getting the Asus instead. The ASRock board is a good option as well. :hmm:

 

[mfenn]

ASRock is a good board but since there is a 15% discount on the Asus board to make it cost the same as the ASRock I suggest getting the Asus instead. The ASRock board is a good option as well. :hmm:

:thumbsup: Agree

 

[kefegg]

They also offered me some other models but I told them that when they announce that a product is available but when ordered it becomes unavailable for more then 2 weeks, that is not my fault. And therefore they offered me some discount. So I guess it's not such a bad deal after all?


Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

 

[Davidh373]

I'd also take them up on the ASUS Pro board at 15% off.

 

[kefegg]

Hi Guys,

I've got my system up and running (good). Only had some troubles with the Asus EPU, TPU settings. I guess turn off all of that would be the best.

This is my current systemsetup:

Scythe Mugen 2 rev.B

MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II/OC

Intel Core i5 2500K / 3.3 GHz

Sea Sonic X-560

Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced

Sony Optiarc AD-7260S

ASUS P8P67 Pro B3 Revision

Corsair XMS3 - Geheugen - 8 GB : 2 x 4 GB - DIMM
240-pins - DDR3 - 1333 MHz / PC3-10666 - CL9 - 1.5 V

2x Samsung SpinPoint F3 Desktop Class HD103SJ 1 TB

Asus U3000 Hybrid TV Tuner


The kids just tested the system with Crysis 2 and Far Cry 2. I must admit that it looks pretty realistic. Everyone happy
I think I'm going to take a shot tp on that Crysis game.

But now I also want to invest in an SSD but I don't know to take 1 for Windows and Linux or buy 2. One for each system.
Which one do you guys suggest? What about the pagefiles and Swap? Now they are on different Partitions and on different disks.
Also this question because of reading issues with Sata Controller on the Asus Mobo and some Sata 600 SSD's.

Thanks for all the advice.