Need suggestions for front brakes and rotors for an 09 Accord LX

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Freejack2, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. Black2na

    Black2na Senior member

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    60's are a race only pad needs heat to work best so those would be more like the r4E portfields. r4s is more like the hp plus hawk pads. doesnt need much heat to be at full bite. street car i would go with the street pads
     
  2. Raizinman

    Raizinman Platinum Member

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    Go to your local Advance Auto, or O'Reilly's, or Auto Zone, or NAPA, and purchase the pads and rotors there. With Black Friday coming next week, there are numerous discounts. If the brakes still have some life, you might even consider ordering from RockAuto. Unless you do some high performance driving or racing, stick with the stock equipment, anything else will be wasted.
     
  3. brainhulk

    brainhulk Diamond Member

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    what race pads do you guys use? the r4e's?
     
  4. JCH13

    JCH13 Diamond Member

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    Yar, R4E. E=endurance, S=street.

    Recently installed R4S pads with Centric rotors on my GF's Civic on the rear axle, it shifted the braking balance of the car to the point where she notices it on her normal commute. She has insisted that the fronts will get replaced with R4S/Centric soon because she likes them so much.

    I really like that Porterfields are made in the USA and they're the best brake pad I've ever used. A company worth supporting.
     
  5. nwf_snake

    nwf_snake Junior Member

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    Raybestos Professional Grade from rockauto.com are a great choice.
     
  6. OmegaSupreme

    OmegaSupreme Member

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    SO you mean a brake job done correctly? You're always supposed to clean and lube the contact points; especially on drum brakes if you don't want noise.
    I dunno about you guys, I've found that Syl-Glide is the best.
    [​IMG]

    I've tried other, supposedly better, lubes and they don't stack up. That includes the synthetic super expensive ones. When it cold, the synthetic lubes get really thick and tends to make the slides stick.

    But I seriously can't stress this enough, torquing the wheels on to the car. Every time I've worked on a car with warped rotors, when I pull off the wheel, each lug nut is tightened at a different torque.
     
  7. Freejack2

    Freejack2 Diamond Member

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  8. AMCRambler

    AMCRambler Diamond Member

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    For a 4 cylinder Honda daily driver? Do you swat flies with bazookas as well? This is overkill. Hop on RockAuto.com and take look at the brands that have the little heart next to them. That's what most people are buying. For rotors just go with Bendix, Centric or Raybestos. For the pads go with a set that have a ceramic compound. Ceramic improves the stopping power in my experience which is always a good thing.

    Rotors are going to be cheap enough that I wouldn't bother even asking if they can be turned.

    Edit: Crap. You updated the thread. I thought this one was new.
     
    #33 AMCRambler, Nov 15, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
  9. SpatiallyAware

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    I don't care how many shoddy brake jobs you do in a year, I have firsthand used brakes by all of the parts stores and napa/oem is far far better quality, stopping distance, and feel.
     
  10. Jimzz

    Jimzz Diamond Member

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    So thats a no.

    Let me get this, you know they are better as they "feel" better. Let me guess you know that k&n gave you more horsepower cause the car "feels" faster as well? Hahahahahahahaha....:D
     
  11. JCH13

    JCH13 Diamond Member

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    Feel... and the whole "quality" and "stopping distance" metrics SpatiallyAware mentioned. Don't cut out inconvenient parts of a statement.

    Also, saying you've done something a bunch of times carries very little credit. No reason for anyone to think you haven't done it a bunch of times incorrectly.
     
  12. phucheneh

    phucheneh Diamond Member

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    Jesus, as if I needed more confirmation that your m4d sk1llz are a joke.
     
  13. Jimzz

    Jimzz Diamond Member

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    He talked about quality, but gave no real difference between his brand and any other. He said they stopped better, but gave no real evidence. Etc…

    I use to be a mechanic and have tried just about everything out there. I also know how to read pads (you know those letters on the side of the pad are regulated). So seeing some other internet rocket scientist screaming that his “insert part” are better yet give no evidence is the same BS I see from idiots that talk about their great k&n filters and all the power they get from them and other snake oil auto products.
     
  14. SpatiallyAware

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    Just because a pad is certified for a certain heat rating doesn't mean jack as far as overall stopping capability, and yes, "feel" - IE how it feels when it starts to fade, and the initial bite as well as progressed bite as you slow down and stop.

    There is a HUGE difference between the 'lifetime warranty' pads from autozone/advance and quality oem/napa brakes.

    There is not as much, but a noticeable difference between the premium autozone/advance and napa/oem.

    You used to be a brake change monkey... Great... So you barely bed in a pad, give it to the customer, they don't come back so it must be an awesome pad, right?

    What a joke. Do some real long-term actual comparisons on your own vehicles with quality parts. Clearly you've spent your life defending the cheapest chinese shit parts you sell at markup and it's tough to open your eyes a bit.
     
  15. phucheneh

    phucheneh Diamond Member

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    Yes, clearly we should all listen to the man who thinks clamping some cast iron between steel and aluminum (or other steel) is capable of actually displacing material and making his rotors warp.

    The lug/stud would break/strip before you could even get close to rearranging the structure of said iron. Your opinions on brakes (and physics...and...logic) are moot.

    It's funny; I was right in that other thread. You are that type of guy who makes sure he has patches sewn onto all his shirtsleeves. So everyone knows how uber he is. Self-appointed shop foreman. The guy who is never wrong; despite being mostly wrong.

    I would put my abilities up against yours any day of the damned week. Yet I actually ask questions and admit when I don't know things...how can this be...?

    Oh, right. There's that whole personality type whose 'I know everything, even if said thing is a matter of opinion or is extremely anecdotal at best' attitude is only reinforced in his deluded mind by the 'defeated' (read: decided you're not worth arguing with) opponent walking away from his 'superiority' (read: brick wall of dumb).
     
  16. OmegaSupreme

    OmegaSupreme Member

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    So that means you don't torque your wheels? Not even with a torque stick? LOL! If you are /were a mechanic, you must get A LOT of comebacks. Hope you like working for free ya hack.

    Edit : I just read the post above and noticed how much knowledge you actually lack.
    Torquing wheels is a certification question. But with all of your vast knowledge, you knew that right?

    As for your comment about how bolts squeezing some metal can rearrange its properties and cause warpage is ludicrous, THAT shows your lack of comprehension.
    Going by your mentality, you don't need to torque anything because you supposedly can't change (your feeble comprehension of) physics. Therefore there's no need to torque cylinder heads either right?
     
    #41 OmegaSupreme, Nov 15, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
  17. SpatiallyAware

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    Ugh... You noobie garage mechanic junkies are getting obnoxious lately.

    This concept that you spew about how if the pad/rotors can lock up the wheel then that's all that matters is fucking stupid.

    You can take a jeep, put 33's on it and still "lock up" the wheels. That doesn't mean there's no point in installing bigger/better brakes.

    There is far far more to braking to the limit (even with ABS) than a matter of simply stopping the rotor. You have to look at the physics of heat dispersion in relation to stopping power. It's not a matter of slowing the rotor down, there is so much more to brake physics than that.

    And, just because you change brakes definitely does not mean you know what you're talking about. I hate to relate this, but you and some of our other newer "mechanics" (IE oil change guys) are absolutely identical to the guys at best buy formatting computers for $300 over any stupid little problem. Just because you work on cars for a living does not mean jack shit. Actually, in all honesty, the fact that you work on cars makes most of your biased opinions suspect.


    I have owned and personally worked on countless vehicles. I don't mean I changed the oil and sent it out the door..... I've tried different products, different brands, and come to my own unbiased conclusion on what works and what doesn't. For much of my life I used autozone/advance 'premium brakes', but once I personally used and realized how much better napa/oem brakes are I haven't gone back.. And this is not over 1, or 2, 10 or even 20 vehicles.

    Without going into detail, this is not some random conclusion, or internet fact sheet comparison... Autozone/advance "store brand" premium brakes are absolutely terrible. They do not perform as well as napa/oem. You and jim arguing that these brakes are "just as good" actually shows your stupidity quite obviously.

    And again, there are many things where I would consider it acceptable to 'cheap out' on. Fram filters, chinese sensors, none of these things are parts your life relies on. Brakes and tires, however, are. Having good brakes and tires can literally mean life or death in an emergency stop situation. The fact that (some) of you try to act like just because it's a beater or whatever means it's ok to buy shit brakes is absolutely stupid.
     
    #42 SpatiallyAware, Nov 15, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
  18. Jimzz

    Jimzz Diamond Member

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    And again do you have anything to back that up other than your butt dyno? :D
    I guess you think Wagner and Raybestos makes junk pads as well?

    Oh and do you know who makes napa or advance pads? :whiste:
     
    #43 Jimzz, Nov 16, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2012
  19. SpatiallyAware

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    Butt dyno? This is firsthand comparison experience here.. Again, not one or two cars, but many vehicles over an extended period of time (both mine and close friends). And, it's not a slight difference - it's extremely noticeable in the numerous back to back situations I've tried them in.


    And are you really so naive to think that raybestos and federal-mogul just make one pad/compound, and simply stick them in different boxes?

    The napa pads are made to a higher standard. They are of better quality. You insisting that they're all the same shows that you, personally, do not have much experience of actually using these parts.
     
  20. Jimzz

    Jimzz Diamond Member

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    First... Hahahahahahahahaa More butt dyno info it seems.

    And what do you have to prove that?
     
  21. JCH13

    JCH13 Diamond Member

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    I'm curious, what do you have to prove otherwise? This is not a rhetorical/smart-ass question.

    If all of these brake pads are made by the same manufacturer that is not evidence that the pads are all the same.
     
  22. Jimzz

    Jimzz Diamond Member

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    Where did I ever say that? You are trying to say you are taking the high road but then come in and try and put words in my mouth I never said.

    SpatiallyAware said something like what you are now trying to tie to me. "And are you really so naive to think that raybestos and federal-mogul just make one pad/compound, and simply stick them in different boxes?"


    I, as posted, said for street driving the advance gold pads will work fine and using the others is a waste unless you are towing/racing.
    Also I have used probaly 60-70sets of napa pads, for the most part they are reboxed Brake Parts Inc (raybestos sub) pads. Some cars get differant makers but that is due to raybestos not having them in their lineup and/or they buying them else where. Some other makers for napa pads have been/are Satisifed, Akebono, and Novatek to name a few I remember.

    And for those butt dyno hereos out there that don't have the option of seeing the hundreds of differant pads like some of us, check out the MSD you can learn a lot about who makes what and whats in them and not look like an idiot. ;)
     
    #47 Jimzz, Nov 16, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2012
  23. JCH13

    JCH13 Diamond Member

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    I never put words in your mouth, and I never quoted you or claimed you said anything in that post. I just saw a direction where you seemed to be going.

    What do you mean when you say "reboxed raybestos pads"? Are you implying that NAPA/Advance Gold pads are all the same? Or do you mean something else by that?

    So far you have failed to provide anything other than general anecdotal evidence yourself. If you have specific reasons why you think the differences between NAPA and Autozone Gold brake pads are trivial or non-existent I would be very much interested in hearing them. Are the part numbers identical? Are the lot numbers identical? Is there some code we should all be looking for printed on the brake pads somewhere? Please share what you know!
     
  24. Jimzz

    Jimzz Diamond Member

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    No you saw what you wanted to see and as my other post show, I never said or implied that.

    And as said, again, for street driving the advance gold pads will work fine and using the others is a waste unless you are towing/racing.

    And for those butt dyno hereos out there that don't have the option of seeing the hundreds of differant pads like some of us, check out the MSD you can learn a lot about who makes what and whats in them and not look like an idiot.

    Heres the MSDS for napa...
    http://www.uapinc.com/msds/MSDSSearch.asp

    Advance
    http://www.aapmsds.com/default.aspx

    Carquest
    http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/...oreId=10151&catalogId=10651&content=msds.html
     
    #49 Jimzz, Nov 16, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2012
  25. JCH13

    JCH13 Diamond Member

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    For those of us who haven't seen hundreds of brake pads, care to explain what we're looking for and what the differences are in the MSDS sheets?

    Care to explain why Advance Gold pads are fine for every day driving unless we're towing or racing?