Need advice on a gaming/work build (including a detailed build and questions)

Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
0
0
[FONT=&quot]Hello everyone,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
I am technically inclined and computer literate, but this will be my first time building my own machine. I wanted to see if some people (with more knowledge/experience than myself) would be willing to take a look at my “build” and give me feedback so that I can learn what types of things to look out for, and where best to spend my money.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I have given a breakdown of my build below including some notes and questions about individual items. I have also listed a few alternative components at the end. The prices are drawn from the cheaper sources on the web, but won’t necessarily be the distributors that I will buy from. A lot of the components have been chosen based on not only the specifications/prices, but also reviews.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The machine will be used predominately for gaming (Starcraft II, Diablo 3, Crysis, Half Life 2, etc.), but also for work. I am a mechanical engineer and I work with some larger Excel spreadsheet analysis files as well as some engineering simulation software (no 3D CAD though).[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I am attempting to keep the total cost in the ~$1500 range, and will not be carrying over anything from my previous computer (except a 19” LCD as a second monitor for work related stuff). With that said, I am still open to suggestions of where I should be spending my money, as I generally tend to believe in investing in higher quality products (though I am not interested in shelling out top dollar for THE top-of-the-line hardware). Thank you in advance to those who bother to read my post and/or assist me (I know that it is perhaps a bit excessively detailed and long).[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]CPU: Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ CompUSA) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Leaves room to overclock in the future to lengthen lifespan of build[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*I believe the i7 feature of 8 threads will be useful for some work related engineering simulation software packages which utilize parallel processing (vs. getting only the i5 2500K)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]CPU Cooler: Cooler Master RR-B10-212P-G1 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ SuperBiiz) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Allows overclocking [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Should fit the clearance of the case based on the given dimensions[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Motherboard: ASRock P67 Extreme4 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($163.49 @ Newegg) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Allows overclocking[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Has two PCI Express 3.0 x16 slots, but can only handle dual at x8/x8 mode (not x16/x16 – would this limit the performance of an additional 6950 in crossfire later on?)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*The PCI Express 3.0 x16 slots are compatible with the rest of the hardware (including the 2.1 x16 GPU), correct?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($109.99 @ Newegg) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Is 16GB even needed, or would I be better off with the faster 2x4GB sticks listed below which have a CAS of 7 (instead of 9 as the 4x4GB above possesses)? Or would cheaper 2x4GB at CAS 9 be sufficient?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Or would 16GB at a CAS of 7 and speed of 1333 MHz be better?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*I want to find out what is needed in order for the memory to not bottleneck the system (including when I OC)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 750GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.99 @ Newegg) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Storage of media, files, etc.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Hard Drive: Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Newegg) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*For OS (Windows 7), Microsoft Office, and several other programs/games (I have heard that the space is sufficient for a limited number of programs – which I estimate would be true for my situation, but I might be pushing it) - in the worst case I could RAID 0 a second one of these later on (this would give slightly better speed at half the reliability, correct?) – or would I be better off going directly to the 128GB listed below?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*For loading large work data files (such as 20 MB+ Excel files), would it be better to have them on the SSD speed wise (in which case I might need the extra capacity that 128 GB would offer)?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card ($264.99 @ Amazon) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Potential to crossfire a second one in the future to lengthen lifespan of build[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Case: Antec Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.49 @ SuperBiiz) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Well reviewed, plain styling (which I desire), two case fans, compatible with video card, motherboard, and CPU fan (and the PSU wires should be long enough to reach motherboard even though the case has a bottom mounted PSU)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Power Supply: Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($94.99 @ Newegg) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Is the wattage sufficient, insufficient, or overkill? (Keep in mind that I might OC in the future as well as add a second 6950 in crossfire)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($25.98 @ Newegg) [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Monitor: Asus VS248H-P 24.0" Monitor ($204.99 @ Mac Mall) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*Seems like a decent 24” 1080 for the price (well reviewed)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*The other option is to move to the 27” listed below (I am concerned that since both are 1080, the 27” picture won’t seem as “sharp”)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*My main concern for the selection of the monitor is gaming[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg) [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Total: $1482.87[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]*CAS = 7[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hard Drive: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($185.99 @ Amazon) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Monitor: Planar PX2710MW 27.0" Monitor ($279.99 @ Newegg)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]- I also plan to buy some “Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound” for the CPU heat sink, and a grounding wrist strap.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Additionally, I am looking to purchase a new headset (not really interested in pairing headphones with a clip-on/stand microphone). It would be used mostly for gaming and online work meetings. I want to be in the ~$80 range. My main concern is having a circumaural set which is comfortable enough to wear for multi-hour gaming sessions (I am looking forward to D3) – the sound would be secondary (though important). I have looked at reviews and other forum posts, but the market is so large that it is still hard to pick - I would love additional feedback. A couple of pairs that I have seen recommended include the Logitech G35’s and the Corsair HS1’s. These are both USB, does that usually perform adequately?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I welcome discussion as well as corrections of any mistakes/poor assumptions that I have made. I know it is a lot of stuff, but please feel free to comment on single items.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Thanks again,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Daniel[/FONT]
 

Puppies04

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2011
5,909
17
76
I doubt you will ever "feel" the difference between 1600mhz and 1333mhz RAM, also keep in mind Intel only show the sandybridge cpu's as compatible with 1066-1333mhz RAM although i have yet to hear of anyone having a problem with faster rated memory. The ripjaws X memory you are looking at is rated at 1.6v though and Sandy bridge should only be used with 1.5v dimms. Save yourself some money and order 8gb of 1333mhz RAM you can always add another 8gb at a later stage if you feel you need it.

750W is overkill for this system unless you ever actually do go SLI on the 6950 which you most likely wont want to do because there will be faster cards avaliable once the single 6950 fells too "slow". I would suggest a 650w model from a reputable brand to save a few more $

Don't bother with the caviar black, pick up a 1tb samsung spinpoint f1 which should be around the same price.

If these suggestions free up a few $ i would change your SSD to a 120/128gb model you will find you have more usable space for your programs a game or 2 or even files you are working on.

All sandy bridge mobo's are 16x or 8x/8x. If you did go SLI this wouldn't impact notcibly on your GPU's.

Have a look at the z68 mobos instead of the p67, even if you dont plan on using SSD caching the onboard graphics output is usefull if you ever have a GPU go faulty or decide to sell the machine futher down the line but wanted to keep/sell the GPU seperately. As I said before I doubt you will ever feel the need to go SLI so picking up a cheaper mobo that didn't support it wouldn't be a major disadvantage and will free up some $ for other areas of the build.
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
91
Welcome to AT forums :thumbsup:

CPU
: Unless you actually use hyperthreading-intensive applications regularly, and since you mentioned gaming as the primary use, 2600K is simply a bad deal. 2500K for $220 from newegg, or if you live near a Microcenter you can get it for only $150 in-store.

Cooler: Good, but on your budget I would go for something that ensures quietness on idle for better working atmosphere. The minimum of 600RPM isn't bad, but it's noticeable if the PC is otherwise silent. My recommendation: Scythe Mugen 3 (300-1600RPM, still performs better than 212+).

Motherboard If you just want SLI, you could go with a cheaper Asrock, e.g. Extreme3 Gen3. Extreme4 seems to differ only in its connectivity options. An option for a non-SLI board: Asus P8Z68-V LE for $130. Definitely stick with Z68, you can run the second work-related monitor via the integrated GPU.

Memory: 1) If you're unsure about how much you need, buy 8GB now, and 8GB when you actually need it. 2) 1333MHz CAS9 is all you need for sandy bridge. Most of the time, even 1600MHz CAS9 simply isn't worth paying for. Plus, overclocking Sandy Bridge has nothing to do with memory speed, because it is done multiplier-only. This will be fine: G.skill Value 8GB $42

HDD. Overpriced. Samsung F3 1TB for $60 instead. Better Gb/$, just as fast, just as reliable.

SSD. :thumbsup::thumbsup: If you run out of space on the M4, I'd recommend buying a small OCZ Vertex 3 and using it as an SSD cache. You could even do that right away, that'd speed up loading those large excel files along with everything else that's not on your system SSD.

GPU: 6950 2GB is good, but I'd get MSI of XFX(dual fan) instead. MSI's cooler is superior, while XFX warranty service is superior. Upgrade to GTX600 / HD7000 next year.

Unless you're a really hard core gamer, dual-GPU is not worth it. It forces you to spend more on the PSU, and by the time a non-HC gamer feels like the card isn't quite fast enough, there are better cards you can upgrade to.

If it's within your budget, you could consider the 15% faster GTX 570.

Case: Can do much better than this. I consider the Antec 300 an overpriced low-end case. Get any of these: Corsair 400R for $95; Fractal R3 for $100 (quiet case); Fractal Core 3000 for $70; CM690 II Adv for $70.

PSU: A 750W PSU is overkill for a 6950 2GB. It is enough for crossfire, but as I recommended above, you're probably better off saving cash on this and upgrading to a faster single GPU when needed. XFX 650W for $60 after rebate. Very high quality power. If you insist on the possibility of dual-GPU, get XFX Pro850W semi-modular for $125 - but I don't recommend it ;)

ODD. :thumbsup:

Since you're looking for a new headset/headphones, I would add this to your list of components: Asus Xonar DG $32
 
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Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
0
0
Puppies04 and lehtv - thank you both very much for the useful feedback, it was exactly what I was looking for.

A review of what I learned (with additional questions if anyone has the time):

Memory:
*Get 1333 MHz, 1.5 V, and CAS 9 timing - save money.
*Is there any benefit of getting 16 GB instead of 8 GB?

GPU:
*Won't bother with crossfire.

Motherboard:
*A decent Z68 is good enough (backup/dual video output), and crossfire wouldn't be needed - save money.

PSU:
*I heard that this is something that shouldn't be skimped on, which is why I am interested in the well-reviewed (which of course is more expensive) Corsair Enthusiast TX series.
*Is 650 W good enough for carrying it over into future upgrades/builds (new GPU and/or CPU - but no crossfire)?

SSD.
*I think that I might step up to Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB

CASE:
*Is spending more on the case really worth it? I was thinking of saving money here (not too concerned about installation ease/time and cable routing - I can work these things out well enough). Noise is a bit of a concern and I would like to use the case through future upgrades.
*Are there specific downsides to the Antec 300 - or is it just not as convenient/polished?

CPU:
*How does hyperthreading on the i7-2600K work, would software capable of parallel processing be able to execute 8 processes at once?

Cooler:
*Pay attention to low end idle speeds for working quietly - thanks for the tip.

Sound Card:
*This is only for 3.5 mm jacks, not USB, correct? (In which case am I better off avoiding USB?)


What is the single area that would benefit the most from an upgrade, stepping the GPU up to a GTX 570 (30% cost increase for 15% performance increase)?

For gaming is stepping up to a 27" monitor at 1920x1080 worth it (or does the loss of "sharpness" when compared with a 24" at 1920x1080 detract from it)?

Although I didn't comment on everything, I (hopefully) absorbed the other information as well.

Thanks,
Daniel
 
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titan131

Senior member
May 4, 2008
260
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The Crucial M4 is the replacement for the older C300, so you should go for the M4 instead. The XFX Pro PSU's are very good quality and built by seasonic, same as many corsair units. We too believe in not skimping on the PSU but it's also good not to go overboard and spend more money when there is no benefit.
 

Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
0
0
The Crucial M4 is the replacement for the older C300, so you should go for the M4 instead. The XFX Pro PSU's are very good quality and built by seasonic, same as many corsair units. We too believe in not skimping on the PSU but it's also good not to go overboard and spend more money when there is no benefit.

Thanks for the feedback, I didn't realize the C300 was an older version. I would go with the Crucial M4 128 GB then.

Good to know about the quality of the XFX Pro PSU's - all I have to draw on is my perusing of reviews and forum posts (which indicated that Corsair is good - and I didn't spend much time reviewing others, which is why I came to you guys for help :)).

Daniel
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
91
Is there any benefit of getting 16 GB instead of 8 GB?
The only applications that benefit from that, that I know of, are vmware, video editing / movie making, 3D modelling, maybe even big photoshop projects - and other apps in that sort of "professional" content creation category. 16GB is absolutely useless for gaming.

*I heard that this is something that shouldn't be skipped on, which is why I am interested in the well-reviewed (which of course is more expensive) Corsair Enthusiast TX series.
Corsair TX as well as many other Corsair PSUs are made by Seasonic. The XFX PSU I recommended is also made by Seasonic. Hence, both are practically just as high quality as Seasonic's self branded products - which is to say they're the best PSUs in the market. You can find reviews of the XFX too, e.g. JonnyGuru (9.5/10 performance score).

*Is 650 W good enough for carrying it over into future upgrades/builds (new GPU and/or CPU - but no crossfire)?
Yes.

I think that I might step up to Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB
C300 is old tech, as pointed out by titan131. M4 is the newer, SATA III compatible drive. There is a 128GB version of the M4.

Is spending more on the case really worth it? I was thinking of saving money here (not too concerned about installation ease/time and cable routing - I can work these things out well enough). Noise is a bit of a concern and I would like to use the case through future upgrades.
I think the case is one of the most important components. A good quality case can easily last you 5 or more years and as many builds and upgrades as you think you're going to do in that time - even though front panel connections may change some during that time. Definitions of a good stationary case (for me, at least):

1) Robust build quality so that it doesn't get damaged from being handled (important for longevity and resale value)
2) Flexibility for upgrade decisions you may make in the future (e.g. Can it fit large coolers? Can it fit long graphics cards? How many 5.25" or 3.5" devices can it fit?
Can it be customized for highly efficient cooling? Can it be customized for silence?)
3) Cable management - affects air flow, aesthetics, and ease of use
4) Aesthetics - are you willing have it sit on your desk for a long time?
5) Ease of use - is it functional, is it nice to work with? (E.g. is the PSU bottom mounted? Are the HDD bays easy to access and install HDD's on?)

In Antec 300, I think 1) is definitely met, and perhaps 4) but that's subjective. Many ~$100 cases meet all of these criteria adequately. But if all are met exceptionally well, I could imagine paying over $200 for a case. It's a long-term purchase.

How does hyperthreading on the i7-2600K work, would software capable of parallel processing be able to execute 8 processes at once?
I don't know how "parallel processing" is defined here... unless you mean parallel computing (CPUs from several computers working on a single task).

This is only for 3.5 mm jacks, not USB, correct? (In which case am I better off avoiding USB?)
Yes, USB headsets don't work with dedicated sound cards. A USB headset comes with a low-end sound processing unit within the headset, inferior to a simple sound card like Xonar DG. Your best bet, if you want decent sound quality, is to buy quality headphones and combine with a dedicated sound card which not only improves the output quality but also offers post-processing functions like equalizer (and Dolby Headphone surround virtualization in the Xonar cards). If you need a mic, it'd be a good idea to buy it separately... most headsets just don't have the sound quality of dedicated headphones.
 
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Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
0
0
The only applications that benefit from that, that I know of, are vmware, video editing / movie making, 3D modelling, maybe even big photoshop projects - and other apps in that sort of "professional" content creation category. 16GB is absolutely useless for gaming.

8GB it is then.

Corsair TX as well as many other Corsair PSUs are made by Seasonic. The XFX PSU I recommended is also made by Seasonic. Hence, both are practically just as high quality as Seasonic's self branded products - which is to say they're the best PSUs in the market. You can find reviews of the XFX too, e.g. JonnyGuru (9.5/10 performance score).

Sounds perfect (I was mainly worried about quality/reliability) - the XFX will save me some money then (and stepping down to 650 W will save even more).

C300 is old tech, as pointed out by titan131. M4 is the newer, SATA III compatible drive. There is a 128GB version of the M4.

I will definitely go with the M4 then.

I think the case is one of the most important components. A good quality case can easily last you 5 or more years and as many builds and upgrades as you think you're going to do in that time - even though front panel connections may change some during that time. Definitions of a good stationary case (for me, at least):

1) Robust build quality so that it doesn't get damaged from being handled (important for longevity and resale value)
2) Flexibility for upgrade decisions you may make in the future (e.g. Can it fit large coolers? Can it fit long graphics cards? How many 5.25" or 3.5" devices can it fit?
Can it be customized for highly efficient cooling? Can it be customized for silence?)
3) Cable management - affects air flow, aesthetics, and ease of use
4) Aesthetics - are you willing have it sit on your desk for a long time?
5) Ease of use - is it functional, is it nice to work with? (E.g. is the PSU bottom mounted? Are the HDD bays easy to access and install HDD's on?)

In Antec 300, I think 1) is definitely met, and perhaps 4) but that's subjective. Many ~$100 cases meet all of these criteria adequately. But if all are met exceptionally well, I could imagine paying over $200 for a case. It's a long-term purchase.

It looks like I need to review my case choices a bit more then. I will consider spending a bit more for better quality. I definitely want to try to avoid getting a poor case which I have to replace with future upgrades/builds.

I don't know how "parallel processing" is defined here... unless you mean parallel computing (CPUs from several computers working on a single task).

Sorry that I don't know the correct terms. As an explanation: one of the software packages that I use somewhat frequently runs parametric simulations (i.e. multiple simulations of the same model (set of equations) with different inputs). It can do multiple runs at a time (i.e. two at a time on a dual core chip, four on a quad core). I guess I am wondering if the i7 would allow me to do eight at a time (I may need to figure this out with the makers of the software (whom I work with), as I am sure it is difficult for anyone to know exactly what the software is doing other than the developers).

Yes, USB headsets don't work with dedicated sound cards. A USB headset comes with a low-end sound processing unit within the headset, inferior to a simple sound card like Xonar DG. Your best bet, if you want decent sound quality, is to buy quality headphones and combine with a dedicated sound card which not only improves the output quality but also offers post-processing functions like equalizer (and Dolby Headphone surround virtualization in the Xonar cards). If you need a mic, it'd be a good idea to buy it separately... most headsets just don't have the sound quality of dedicated headphones.

I have heard that an audio card/headphones/separate microphone is the better setup from many people/places, perhaps I should listen, haha. My main concern is still comfort though, as my current cheap pair of headphones leaves my ear lobes in pain after a couple hours of gaming. I still need to do some more searching then.

Thanks for the help,
Daniel
 

VirtualLarry

No Lifer
Aug 25, 2001
56,587
10,225
126
If you are not going to go Crossfire, then yes, step down on the PSU to a quality 650W. But if you do want to go CF, a 750W is the minimum I would recommend.

I would go with 16GB of RAM, just because. Why not max it out, when you can, for such cheap prices these day? I bought 32GB of RAM, 4 kits of 8GB (2x4GB), for $150. Just because. When I finally upgrade my two desktops to SB (or possibly BD), they are both getting 16GB of RAM.

I have 8GB of DDR2 in my current desktops. I rarely use over 4GB, but it's nice to have extra, it speeds things up slightly.
 

anti.machine

Member
Sep 29, 2011
99
0
0
Seems like you got everything worked out here, the only two cents I have to throw in is a lot of people will tell you to go with the DDR3 1333Mhz RAM, and I would agree if the price difference was more between that and the 1600Mhz sticks. Seeing how you can get a slight performance increase with the 1600Mhz (however marginal over 1333Mhz). IMO just spend the extra few dollars and get the 1600Mhz

AnandTech says, "The sweet spot appears to be at DDR3-1600" with Sandy Bridge
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
91
VirtualLarry said:
I would go with 16GB of RAM, just because. Why not max it out, when you can, for such cheap prices these day?

It's not like the prices are going to skyrocket next week or something. I think he has plenty of time to find out whether it's actually needed, before the memory becomes noticeably more expensive. Besides, DDR4 is expected to hit the market some time next year, and Intel Haswell architecture which will probably use DDR4 is expected to be released in spring 2013 (~1 year from Ivy Bridge).

Seems like you got everything worked out here, the only two cents I have to throw in is a lot of people will tell you to go with the DDR3 1333Mhz RAM, and I would agree if the price difference was more between that and the 1600Mhz sticks. Seeing how you can get a slight performance increase with the 1600Mhz (however marginal over 1333Mhz). IMO just spend the extra few dollars and get the 1600Mhz

AnandTech says, "The sweet spot appears to be at DDR3-1600" with Sandy Bridge"

That's a generalization, based on the benchmark suite used by Anandtech. This is predominantly a gaming computer - I can't help but think the faster RAM is predominantly wasted cash. But since the price difference is just $5-10, it's not like it matters a lot either way.
 
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mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
22,400
5
71
www.mfenn.com
OP, you have gotten some good advice here. I'd like to add a few things:
- Even a 550W PSU is plenty for a 6950 2GB. The XFX Core 550W is a reasonable choice.
- I think that the Three Hundred is a perfectly decent case for your needs. Is something like an R3 better? Certainly. Is it twice as good for a moderate build? I dunno about that.
- The SSD would be a very good place to keep your Excel spreadsheets. Excel isn't very optimized for loading a whole spreadsheet in memory and keeping it there, so the fast disk is quite nice to have.
- The Hyperthreading on the i7 doesn't really help you when running dense floating-point heavy code like most numerical simulations. You'll likely find that your overall time to results is lower by running two batches of 4 threads instead of 8 threads at a time. In light of that, it makes sense to stick with the i5 2500K.
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
91
I think R3 is easily twice as good as Antec 300 :/ For a cheap case I'd rather get something like NZXT Source than 300, even if the build quality isn't quite as robust.
 

Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
0
0
- Even a 550W PSU is plenty for a 6950 2GB. The XFX Core 550W is a reasonable choice.

Would this leave expansion for moving to a better (single) GPU in the future? If so, it could be a chance to save some more money.

- I think that the Three Hundred is a perfectly decent case for your needs. Is something like an R3 better? Certainly. Is it twice as good for a moderate build? I dunno about that.

I guess I still need to carefully consider the case. I would like to carry it through future upgrades/builds, so perhaps it is worth investing a little bit more money, we will see. Obviously lehtv thinks it is worth it - my problem is that it is my first build, so I have never had to deal with a frustrating/poor quality case before - I am guessing that lehtv may have had this experience, so perhaps I should learn from it.

- The SSD would be a very good place to keep your Excel spreadsheets. Excel isn't very optimized for loading a whole spreadsheet in memory and keeping it there, so the fast disk is quite nice to have.

Good to know - I think I will go for the 128 GB at this point (for additional games and for Excel work).

- The Hyperthreading on the i7 doesn't really help you when running dense floating-point heavy code like most numerical simulations. You'll likely find that your overall time to results is lower by running two batches of 4 threads instead of 8 threads at a time. In light of that, it makes sense to stick with the i5 2500K.

Good to know. I feel that I am mentally stuck on wanting the 2600K, but everything that I have seen/heard indicates that the 2500K is plenty for my needs (and a ~50% price difference is nothing to shrug off). *Sigh* I guess I need to carefully consider how much I want to spend and see if common sense can prevail.

Thanks,
Daniel
 

lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,897
74
91
Would this leave expansion for moving to a better (single) GPU in the future? If so, it could be a chance to save some more money.
Yeah, save $5. :D

I am guessing that lehtv may have had this experience, so perhaps I should learn from it.
I did have an Antec 900 and I absolutely hated it (after the initial wonder at the fancy blue LEDs wore off). Maybe I'm biased to hate the Antec 300 too :/. All in all though there are so many better cases that you can afford with this budget, I'm pretty sure you'd be disappointed with the lack of cable management, top-mounted PSU, lack of cooling potential and lack of, well everything really apart from solid materials/build quality.

Good to know. I feel that I am mentally stuck on wanting the 2600K, but everything that I have seen/heard indicates that the 2500K is plenty for my needs (and a ~50% price difference is nothing to shrug off). *Sigh* I guess I need to carefully consider how much I want to spend and see if common sense can prevail.
If you later find out that you could seriously benefit from hyperthreading, you can still sell the 2500K and upgrade to an Ivy Bridge 2600k equivalent in March/April 2012 (if intel's schedule holds).
 
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VirtualLarry

No Lifer
Aug 25, 2001
56,587
10,225
126
I know several people that like the Antec 300. It's kind of understated, but it has capacity for plenty of fans, and is a very solid, well-built case. It doesn't have a lot of fancy features though. No USB3, no HD dock, no floppy bay.
 

R4in

Senior member
Sep 18, 2011
278
0
0
I fully support lehtv and mfenn in their choices of components. I might recommend RAID-0 setup of the Samsung F3s for storage along with the 128GB M4 for OS and games.
 

mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
22,400
5
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www.mfenn.com
Would this leave expansion for moving to a better (single) GPU in the future? If so, it could be a chance to save some more money.

Yes. GPU power draw at each "class" of card has pretty much plateaued. I would expect the Radeon 7950 (for example) to draw the same or less power than the 6950.
 

Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
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Based on the advice given and what I have read online, I think common sense has to prevail - I will get the 2500K.

I am going to go pick one up for $180 at a Micro Center, which will hopefully give me the chance to check out the different cases that were recommended in person (I have never been before, so I am hoping that their in-store stock/selection is good - I know that they have some of the cases we discussed on their website). I think that will be the deciding factor for which case I buy - I appreciate all of the advice.

Daniel
 

Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
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Hey guys,

Thanks for all of the suggestions from everyone. A break-down of everything that I purchased for the build is shown in the link (a screenshot of an Excel Table). I got good deals on a few of the items, which is why they were selected in particular (motherboard combo with the chip, HS1A headphones, ASUS 27" monitor).

I ended up going with the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced case (after seeing the difference in person).

http://www.2imgs.com/92e63e14c7

The full total (including monitor, headset, and audio card) was $1467.02 after $100 of mail-in-rebates.

Daniel
92e63e14c7
 

mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
22,400
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Looks good to me, though you may have been able to save some money by getting DDR3 1333.
Also, the Hyper 212 EVO is the latest and greatest in that line. It only costs $5 than the + and gets you a much nicer fan.
 

Spyderyone

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2011
11
0
0
Looks good to me, though you may have been able to save some money by getting DDR3 1333.
Also, the Hyper 212 EVO is the latest and greatest in that line. It only costs $5 than the + and gets you a much nicer fan.

I thought about the 1333, but decided to spend the ~$10 difference for the 1600 MHz, as the link from the AnandTech testing says that it is the "sweet spot" - but at least if I wasted money it is only $10.

After placing the purchase for the 212+ I regretted not getting the 212 Evo, but oh well, not worried about it now.

Daniel
 

mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
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You know, I always found the conclusion from the Anandtech memory article to be really interesting. The author shows page after page of situations where DDR3 1600 is no faster than 1333, but then goes to say that 1600 is the sweet spot. Baffling if you ask me.