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my paint needs help

ElFenix

ElFenix

Elite Member
Super Moderator
how do i fix this?

(the etched in water drops, for ragingbitch)

t7LaoGD.jpg
 
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RagingBITCH said:
Fix what? Learn to take a picture.
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BUT MY IPHONE IS TEN MEGAPIXELS.:\

Yeah, I can't see anything there. Camera flashes should show paint flaws pretty easily. Giant glowing orbs (streetlight?) that wash out everything, notsomuch.

I'm gonna also guess it's acid rain. Possibly cracking paint. Or just swirl marks that the camera is making look funny.

edit: sure seems like a lot of texture. I thought it was a vinyl top at first. That'd be some pretty bad acid rain.
 
phucheneh said:
BUT MY IPHONE IS TEN MEGAPIXELS.:\

Yeah, I can't see anything there. Camera flashes should show paint flaws pretty easily. Giant glowing orbs (streetlight?) that wash out everything, notsomuch.

I'm gonna also guess it's acid rain. Possibly cracking paint. Or just swirl marks that the camera is making look funny.

edit: sure seems like a lot of texture. I thought it was a vinyl top at first. That'd be some pretty bad acid rain.
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there's nothing that can be felt. those are all microscopic water etching edges. there's really that many of them. i'm actually pleased the camera picked them up.
 
Car it totaled. Dump it and buy a new one

When was the last time you waxed the car? What type of paint and make/model of car. I am pretty certain a professional detailer will correct that. If it's an expensive car spend the money. If not time to learn.
 
power_hour said:
Car it totaled. Dump it and buy a new one

When was the last time you waxed the car? What type of paint and make/model of car. I am pretty certain a professional detailer will correct that. If it's an expensive car spend the money. If not time to learn.
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mazda3. been a while since it was waxed.
 
I bet if you used a good cleaner wax that would all go away.

Read up on properly washing the car (I prefer lambswool, rinse after every wipe, dry properly with MF drying towels)

Dark paint like that gets screwed up VERY easily. Once it's in that condition you have to wax once a month to hide blemishes if you want it to look good.
 
I'm doubtful about cleaner wax doing it, but it's worth a try.

Start with the easy stuff and only step up in agressiveness as much as you have to.

I would start with a good wash with plain ol' dishsoap. Ivory seems to be recommended the most, but that might just be a brand-saturation kinda thing.

That strips any wax, oil, grease, ect off of the paint. Then do the cleaner wax, which is just mildly abrasive.

If your buffing pads (handheld or those on a slow-speed orbital buffer) are getting really black from paint transfer (they'll also just get dirty- but that'll be a lighter color), your clearcoat is shot.

If they don't, but the scars are still there, another Ivory bath and claybar might be a good next step.

Then you're pretty much down to rubbing compounds and high speed polishing.
 
Wash and dry your car first then I'd recommend trying a good quality paint cleaner, then wax. If you are really anal use a showroom glaze between the cleaner and wax. I like Meguiars myself.

Clay bar should provide good results too. I'd probably start with that because it is less abrasive to your clear coat than paint cleaners.

I don't like cleaner waxes personally.
 
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Come to think of it. I had a Silver 2004 Mazda3 and it was shit for paint quality. I had swirls like that but not as noticeable due to the colour I think.

Not to piss on your thread but Mazda's paint quality on the 3s is really a sore point with me. After the first year I knew multiple people complaining of fading and chipping and Mazda just ignored them. Until they had a secret recall due to all the cars rusting to hell and back. I got lucky and ended up with mostly swirls and some fading but very little rusting.

What year is yours?
 
manimal said:
I have seen some abused paint. Getting someone who is decent to show you helps.
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A dual-action or random orbit buffer should be pretty idiot-proof. I've never seen one that turns very fast, especially under load. I'm not sure how fast an electric DA you can get. Some air ones can spin pretty fast, I guess.

High-speed polishing is where you burn through paint. These devices do not have elliptical orbits and can spin very quickly.
 
phucheneh said:
A dual-action or random orbit buffer should be pretty idiot-proof. I've never seen one that turns very fast, especially under load. I'm not sure how fast an electric DA you can get. Some air ones can spin pretty fast, I guess.

High-speed polishing is where you burn through paint. These devices do not have elliptical orbits and can spin very quickly.
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never underestimate a noob who reads something on the internet
 
Too many people get a pad, attach it to a carpenter's drill and proceed to grind their clearcoat to all hell. Ever see a nice black car with horrible, horrible swirling along the edges? Yeah, that guy fucked up.
 
I just saw (Advanced Auto Parts) that Meguair came out with "attached to your own drill" version of Dual Action Polisher. The idea sound pretty ghetto but Meguair is extremely reputable brand and if they came out with it, it has a chance of working. I trust 3M, Meguairs etc to not fleece me. When it comes to automotive refinishing products, those are top dogs There is also $10 off (or mail-in rebate). I just got the AAP booklet in the mail.

Why don't you be a guinea pig for all of us?
 
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