Anubis
No Lifer
that is if you buy that status symbol BS
my dad is a successfull Doctor and he would never pay 10K or a stupid watch My sister is a succesfull lawyer and she thinks the same way, her watch cost like 400$ , there are infinitly more important things you coudl spend 10K on then a watch, a 100$ watch tells time just as well as a 10,000$ one
I didnt say anything about rings, but i do have a similar opinion on them, diamons look like cut glass and arnt worth the money,
and you are extreamly shallow if you value the cost of something over the meaning behind it
Well you are right about the Swiss kind, I have one and I paid $200 and MY chronograph WORKS. If fact I've compared it to a real rolex and there IS NO DIFFERENCE. The fact that your Chrono does not work tells me its a fine "fake" but not swiss made.
Link Read the "Rolex Replica Comparison Chart"
Its link on the left.
The moment someone wants to see your watch and the try to unscrew the lugs for the Chronograph and try to push the button they will know this is a fake.
Also they will know its fake by other factors. What kind of car do you drive? you get my point. That particular watch is the MOST popular Rolex at the moment there are waiting lists just to buy a REAL one.
- Dec 11, 2002
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I just turned 18. I have no need for a rolex. No one would think it's real even if it was anyways. Of course I value the cost of it a lot more than the meaning, because I value what I could get for the cost of the watch a lot more than the meaning that I get no benefit from.
I can't tell buy the two Tags I bought from dealers, one died (was RMA), the other one gets sent back to their repair shop a few times.. Not what you would expect from $2k watches.. but crap happens.. I been eyeing a Omega Seamaster.. maybe for x-mas this year, ill finally get it..
- Dec 11, 2002
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Yeah your chronograph is also battery operated, so is your entire watch, running on quartz.
Go read the myths and facts guides on that site. And you'll know it's impossible to get a close replica for $200, as the cost of "swiss made" parts and manufacturing far exceeds $200.
Originally posted by: Papagayo
Originally posted by: FuZoR
still a fake rolex....
ditto
But I still love mine.Dude It's not battery run it perpetual motion like a REAL ROLEX. I never said mine retails for $200 I said I got it for $200 In fact the person I got mine from was a watch dealer and he owed my dad a few favors and I wanted the watch so the guy took a loss on it, he sold them for about $600-$800 depending on the look of the customer. Don't be hating me because my Chrono WORKS.
ALSO IF YOU LOOK AT THE CHART (at the link I gave) YOU WOULD SEE a Grade 1 fake is a Genuine SWISS ROLEX and it retails for $700-$1200 and Wholesales for $500-$700
Why do you think your bro gave it to you its BROKEN the Chrono doesn't work. He doesn't want a busted watch. So bottomline is your bro gave you a busted watch for your birthday.
I own 3 tags and they all worked really well. All three of them are 10+ years old! Still accurate as hell
- Dec 11, 2002
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What kind of perpetual movement? Japanese made Mitoya crystal replica watches only cost $200.
Well now that you explained that the dealer took a loss on it, it's more credulous that you got your fully functional one with perpetual movement for $200.
Goto www.eurofakes.com , they have a grade1 swiss made replica that costs $1500. If you read on the message board on that site, most people are saying you need to pay $1500-$2000 to get a good replica for the daytona model.
The other models are much easier to counterfeit than the daytona model.
And if you read the pdf's on that site, it'll tell you that pretty much all chronos for the daytona replicas do not work, and only the very top quality ones work.
I'm just happy that mine doesn't work as a calendar, then I know mine isn't battery operated.
Don Vito Corleone
Elite
- Feb 10, 2000
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There's a whole lotta bad intel floating around here . . .
ETA makes movements, not "crystals." The pic appears to be a decent Daytona replica, but mislabels the crystal as a "crown," which is something else entirely.
There's no reason this watch would have cost $600-700 to make, much less $1500, if the chrono features don't work. ETA 2824-powered watches (which I assume this is) are available for as little as $150. ETA make nice movements, but a 2824 is NOT comparable to a modern Rolex movement in quality or design.
The fact that this watch has an ETA movement (assuming that too is not counterfeit, which it could be) does not mean the watch itself was made in Switzerland. I have a German watch with an ETA movement, and there are any number of watches made in Asia and elsewhere with ETA calibers.
Even if the chronograph features worked (as they apparently don't), and the watch had a sapphire crystal (which I doubt it does), the watch could be made and sold for $600 or so, and a quick Google search reveals Daytona replicas with working chronos for less than $1K. With a non-functioning chrono, if the ETA movement is genuine, the watch should run $200 or so, unless the case/face/crystal are of exceptional quality.
ETA makes movements, not "crystals." The pic appears to be a decent Daytona replica, but mislabels the crystal as a "crown," which is something else entirely.
There's no reason this watch would have cost $600-700 to make, much less $1500, if the chrono features don't work. ETA 2824-powered watches (which I assume this is) are available for as little as $150. ETA make nice movements, but a 2824 is NOT comparable to a modern Rolex movement in quality or design.
The fact that this watch has an ETA movement (assuming that too is not counterfeit, which it could be) does not mean the watch itself was made in Switzerland. I have a German watch with an ETA movement, and there are any number of watches made in Asia and elsewhere with ETA calibers.
Even if the chronograph features worked (as they apparently don't), and the watch had a sapphire crystal (which I doubt it does), the watch could be made and sold for $600 or so, and a quick Google search reveals Daytona replicas with working chronos for less than $1K. With a non-functioning chrono, if the ETA movement is genuine, the watch should run $200 or so, unless the case/face/crystal are of exceptional quality.
- Dec 11, 2002
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DonVito, I don't know where you get your info from, but I just read pretty much all the pdf's on that replicacenter site. They said it's pretty much impossible to get a genuine eta movement "crystal"(which is what they called it), for under $700. I know it's not made in switzerland, but all the parts are from switzerland and assembled in china, then shipped back to switzerland for fine tuning, which is what I read from that site.
That site also explained that ETA is in the business 3 times longer than Rolex, and thus ETA movement is comparable if not better than Rolex movement.
According to the site, if the band is very shiny like a mirror, then it is using low grade steel, and is japanese made. But my band has a slightly brushed texture, and is not completely chrome, which indicates it's using the high grade 440 stainless steel, exclusive to swiss made watches. Then according to that site, swiss made watches usually all use sapphire lens.
Also under the time adjustment "crown", there is the rubber sealant gasket, which is also exclusive to only the highest quality replicas.
Lastly, the true 3d holographic sticker on the bottom is also exclusive to the highest quality swiss made replicas.
That site also explained that ETA is in the business 3 times longer than Rolex, and thus ETA movement is comparable if not better than Rolex movement.
According to the site, if the band is very shiny like a mirror, then it is using low grade steel, and is japanese made. But my band has a slightly brushed texture, and is not completely chrome, which indicates it's using the high grade 440 stainless steel, exclusive to swiss made watches. Then according to that site, swiss made watches usually all use sapphire lens.
Also under the time adjustment "crown", there is the rubber sealant gasket, which is also exclusive to only the highest quality replicas.
Lastly, the true 3d holographic sticker on the bottom is also exclusive to the highest quality swiss made replicas.
Wow, so mich misinformation in here. ETA movements are not on par with an in house Rolex movement. Most Rolex movements (including the one in the Daytona) are COSC certified, most ETA's are not (unless the user of the movement decides to get it certified).
Your watch is not as great replica, and anyone who knows a little about Rolex can tell it apart very easily from a real one. To start with, the laser etching is not seen unless under high magnification (meaning, either using a loop, or some other form of high magnification), and even if your camera could capture it at that distance, it definitely cannot at the angle you took the picture, and the lighting situation. The etched coronet (not crown) is also much smaller than the one on your fake. To take a picture of the laser etched coronet on my Rolex, I need to dim the lights, set my camera to "Magnification mode", and sit the lens of the camera about 1 cm from the crystal, and at an angle from the bottom. I then need to enable the flash, and then take the picture. Also, if you are focussed on the dial, the laser etching will not be seen. You need to focus on the crystal itself.
Another problem is the sub dials. On your fake, the silver outlining of the sub dial is too thick compared to the real Daytona. And the color of the red on your dial is wrong.
Their are other problems with it, but I do not feel like going in to it. Suffice it to say, anyone who has seen and held a real Daytona would be able to see yours is fake.
Also, a fake is a fake. Their is no point in spending that kind of money to get a fake with an ETA movement, when you can get a very good Omega for the same amount of money, or save up and get the real thing instead of trying to be a poser.
Your watch is not as great replica, and anyone who knows a little about Rolex can tell it apart very easily from a real one. To start with, the laser etching is not seen unless under high magnification (meaning, either using a loop, or some other form of high magnification), and even if your camera could capture it at that distance, it definitely cannot at the angle you took the picture, and the lighting situation. The etched coronet (not crown) is also much smaller than the one on your fake. To take a picture of the laser etched coronet on my Rolex, I need to dim the lights, set my camera to "Magnification mode", and sit the lens of the camera about 1 cm from the crystal, and at an angle from the bottom. I then need to enable the flash, and then take the picture. Also, if you are focussed on the dial, the laser etching will not be seen. You need to focus on the crystal itself.
Another problem is the sub dials. On your fake, the silver outlining of the sub dial is too thick compared to the real Daytona. And the color of the red on your dial is wrong.
Their are other problems with it, but I do not feel like going in to it. Suffice it to say, anyone who has seen and held a real Daytona would be able to see yours is fake.
Also, a fake is a fake. Their is no point in spending that kind of money to get a fake with an ETA movement, when you can get a very good Omega for the same amount of money, or save up and get the real thing instead of trying to be a poser.
dude, doesn't matter if your is a real or an expensive fake, if you are like ~18yr old, people will assumed it's a cheap fake! unless you are bling bling. I suggest that you sell it to me now to avoid the embarssment.
- Nov 27, 1999
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