Mirror on a mantle

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lxskllr

No Lifer
Nov 30, 2004
59,384
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Here's a quickie...

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edit:
The idea is to use a bent nail or something as an anchor between the glass top and wall, tie the string to that, then run the string to a rail, or to eye hooks in the back of the mirror. You need to make sure it's secure, and can hold the weight of the mirror. The idea's very rough, and can be modified for your exact setup.
 
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tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
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The idea is to use a bent nail or something as an anchor between the glass top and wall, tie the string to that, then run the string to a rail, or to eye hooks in the back of the mirror. You need to make sure it's secure, and can hold the weight of the mirror. The idea's very rough, and can be modified for your exact setup.
Ok, gonna have to study this... not getting it. If I want to mount what exactly would you recommend? Would it help you to see a photo of the wall?
 

lxskllr

No Lifer
Nov 30, 2004
59,384
9,915
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I have time for typing now, but I'm on a phone, so I can't make pictures(easily). We'll start from the start. You have...

plaster wall
marble mantle with a glass plate on top

First, I'm assuming you have room to lean a mirror on the mantle. It's deep enough to keep the mirror from toppling, even if the base is secure, right? If not, you'll need a top anchor, but it won't have to hold the full mirror weight. Just enough to keep it from falling away from the wall.

Main goal... Keep the bottom of the mirror from sliding away from the wall.

I imagine the glass has a gap of some width at the wall. If there's zero gap, then my idea won't work. The idea is to stick something between the glass and wall(not shown in my pic above, but it's where the strings are going at the top) that'll hold firmly as a wedge using friction. A nail if the gap is wide, or something like a knife blade(cut a chunk off a crappy table knife) if it's narrow. Attach a string to that, then tie the other end of the string to the mirror. Result = bottom of mirror can't go farther from the wall than the string will allow. The wedge you made between the glass and wall will hold it in place.

Potential problems...

You get carried away tapping the wedge in place, and break the glass.

Tapping the wedge in breaks the epoxy bond, and the glass comes loose from the marble.

You loosen the epoxy, but don't notice, and weight of the mirror slooowly pushes the glass away from the wall, your anchor comes loose, and the mirror falls.

As noted above, if the angle of the leaning mirror is too steep, it could topple from the top, so that'll have to be accounted for.
 

tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
1,501
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We'll start from the start...
Ok, no, there's no gap. Now, I understand you. I'll place photos. I think it's the only way to explain....
The fireplace:

The glass:

Profile of mantle:

Hole in wall (faint outline of bubbled plaster under hole) where I tried to hang the mirror:

 

lxskllr

No Lifer
Nov 30, 2004
59,384
9,915
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I don't know. That's kind of a tough setup. How about a suction cup anchor, like you'd use in a car for a cell phone? I don't really trust them, but the one in my truck has been up for a couple months now. Stick it behind the mirror, and run a tether to that. It would be non destructive.
 

tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
1,501
23
81
I don't know. That's kind of a tough setup. How about a suction cup anchor, like you'd use in a car for a cell phone? I don't really trust them, but the one in my truck has been up for a couple months now. Stick it behind the mirror, and run a tether to that. It would be non destructive.
But what about for drilling anchors. Any ideas?
 

lxskllr

No Lifer
Nov 30, 2004
59,384
9,915
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But what about for drilling anchors. Any ideas?
At the top? A screw as deep as you can get should be sufficient. It only has to keep the mirror from tipping forward, and most times won't have weight pulling on it.
 

tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
1,501
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At the top? A screw as deep as you can get should be sufficient. It only has to keep the mirror from tipping forward, and most times won't have weight pulling on it.
So are these picture nail hooks I was trying never gonna work? Was the nail at 45degrees not going far enough into the brick maybe? (crap, maybe it wasn't going into the brick at all). I don't get what kind of wall those are made for then?
 

lxskllr

No Lifer
Nov 30, 2004
59,384
9,915
126
I think those are for drywall. Plaster doesn't have enough holding capacity for heavy objects. I don't have a lot of experience with plaster, but the experience I've had was a pita.
 

tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
1,501
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Ok. Can you recommend an anchor type (or screw and anchor combo) for a deep hole in brick with 1.5cm plaster in front? :rolleyes:
 

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
18,883
641
126
Why not some double sided tape holding a cleat in place? You could find something decorative to use as a cleat and have the cleat as long as you feel is needed. Multiple cleats if you find something that looks nice but is not long enough.

Fasten the cleat to the glass mantle with the tape, wait the time the manufacturer recommends for it to achieve a good bond and you have something to keep the mirror from sliding off. Some of these modern adhesives are really, really strong.

When you move out, twisting off the cleat or sliding a sharp blade under it will break the adhesive bond. You will then need to scrape off the remaining adhesive with a razor blade and probably use some solvent to finish the job. The glass can easily withstand that treatment without it being damaged.
 

ISAslot

Platinum Member
Jan 22, 2001
2,890
108
106
Those look incredibly sturdy. But don't you use anchors with them? Surely, they don't screw into the brick?
They go directly into the brick. No anchors. The key to adhesion is the specific hole size. They typically come with the bit.

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
 

tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
1,501
23
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They go directly into the brick. No anchors. The key to adhesion is the specific hole size. They typically come with the bit.
That looks incredible. I hope I can get one long enough. I want to get a screw that can go a good 10-12cm into my wall. 1.5cm of plaster and then another 8 of brick.
 

tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
1,501
23
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Could I get some advice on this?
@ISAslot , I went and got some of those concrete screws. Got them 4" long. So only about 3" are in the concrete because 5/8" of that is only in plaster there's about a 1/4" sticking out and kind of hovering in the slightly oversized hole. I've included photos.

Do you guys think I should fill in those gaps with spackle? Something else? Or just leave it because those screws are secure enough?

 

shortylickens

No Lifer
Jul 15, 2003
80,287
17,081
136
This isnt directly related, but I recommend NOT using philips or slotted screws. They end up being a pain. Go to the hardware store and spend a little extra. Get some screws with torx or robertson heads and higher quality steel. Believe me you will be grateful in the long run.
 

ISAslot

Platinum Member
Jan 22, 2001
2,890
108
106
Yes, at least I thought that's what you meant?

The mirror has thick plastic shielded cabling on the back fastened with D-loops to the wooden frame.
I see. If they're solid then it could work. Since the screws are hidden by the mirror, spackle seems unnecessary.

I was first envisioning a horizontal ledger tapcon'ed to the wall which would give you a wood base for your typical attachment methods.

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
 

tinpanalley

Golden Member
Jul 13, 2011
1,501
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I see. If they're solid then it could work. Since the screws are hidden by the mirror, spackle seems unnecessary.
So, the spackle isn't gonna help fill in those holes to hold the screw heads better?
I was first envisioning a horizontal ledger tapcon'ed to the wall which would give you a wood base for your typical attachment methods.
So, will this not be as secure? And if I do decide to go with a setup like you're describing, isn't the screw hole pretty much compromised already gauge-wise?
 

ISAslot

Platinum Member
Jan 22, 2001
2,890
108
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So, the spackle isn't gonna help fill in those holes to hold the screw heads better?
The spackle wouldn't and any structural integrity.
So, will this not be as secure? And if I do decide to go with a setup like you're describing, isn't the screw hole pretty much compromised already gauge-wise?
My concerns with the current setup is that the head of the screw might not have enough 'lip' to keep the wire truly secure behind it. Also, there's no clamping force exerted between the wall and the head. Is it solid in the hole? The old hole may be compromised. You can tell if you sink the screw but it just spins and doesn't bite.