Sorry can't resists, huesmann. Various words from your post (none re-arranged):
</Beavis & Butthead mode>
Sorry, back on topic.
</Beavis & Butthead mode>
Sorry, back on topic.
These break deals are nothin but come ons. Very seldom will you get out of these places that cheap. Most of their mechanics work on a percentage basis. I suggest taking your car in to the dealer for a oil change. While there try getting one of the mechnics phone numbers because they(the younger ones) all do work on the side. A few months ago my muffler went bad. I took my car into CAR-X for a estimate. The estimate was around 400 bucks which was 40 bucks more than the dealer was charging. So, I went to the neighborhood parts store and bought the muffler and pipes for around 110 and found one of the mechanics i know put it on for 40 bucks.
Installation is probably not included. I recommend looking for dealer coupons. One of the Toyotal dealers around here has replace brake pads and resurfacing rotors for $99.95.
Please quit spelling it BREAK, IT'S BRAKE.
Please quit spelling it BREAK, IT'S BRAKE.
That's pretty good price for dealer, honda want $179 with coupon and $250 without coupon, even pepboys charge $119. Midas charge $39 per axel is that mean $79 for the front and $79 for the rear?
Those Midas lifetime brakes cost to them are like 7 bucks. Those are the lowest friction grade pads you can get in the market. They can warranty your pad but not the labor in the future. Don't expect them to perform anything like OEM spec brakes. Then rotors brake sensors are not included.
Is there anyone that can recommed a good place online to buy brake pads that are inexpensive but good quality? I've been looking for ones to replace my fiancee's pads on a Jaguar X-Type but they seem expensive as hell everyplace I look. Thanks.
For something like a Jag (even though now its a Ford) its best to find a forum specific to that brand and see what people have to say. Generically I would look at some place like Jegs.com or Bap/Geon, but some more exotic cars it may be best to focus on the manufacturer. Also nothing is wrong with using a rebuilt part.
BTW with a Jag you better get used to expensive as hell.
One comment on finding a good mechanic and getting him to work on the side directly for you, give him a shot at finding the best parts source. They often have connections and deals you couldn't even dream about.
BTW with a Jag you better get used to expensive as hell.
One comment on finding a good mechanic and getting him to work on the side directly for you, give him a shot at finding the best parts source. They often have connections and deals you couldn't even dream about.
UsandThem
Elite Member
- May 4, 2000
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And quit spelling it axel, it's axle.
BTW, it's been said here more than once, there's no reason to turn your rotors unless they're warped, which you'll know yourself.
midas is for car newbies. this thread should be locked. every bad thing said in this thread is true
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
- Feb 18, 2001
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Actually, that was not what was said, and that is also not true. There are many reasons to cut a rotor, and a few that can ruin a rotor. Overheating, hardenting, cracking, blueing, and warping are all very good reasons to replace a rotor. Minor (very minor) warping can be corected by getting the rotors cut, but cutting a warped rotor will lead to thin spots that are more likely to overheat, crack, blue, and warp again.
Cutting (or replacing a rotor) will cause longer stops though. Why? The uncut rotor is burnished, and some pad material is transfered to the rotor, which assists with braking. Cutting the rotor will remove the inperfections, but will also remove the burnishing. a new or cut rotor will require a break in period so the pads "take a set" to the new rotor.
NOt only is the rotor not burnished, but now material has been removed (duh). Removing material fromt he rotor reduces the amount of heat energy the rotor can store and disapate in a given period of time. This will make sucessent stops take longer than an uncut/new rotor.
Some manufacturers/OEMs suggest that the rotor is resurfased with a pad change. However, this is not always the case. If I remember correctly, Ford put out some TSB's on NOT cutting rotors unless they were deeply groved, or the customer was complaining of pulsations.
The fact of the matter is, there is no hard and fast rule in all instances. The decision should be made my a competent mechanic/Tech that is familiar with the vehicle and the drivers habits.
no kidding pads = 8-$25 per set (with some few exeptions most are <$13, turn rotors = $9 each (depends on where you go.
last brake job I did cost all of $9.50 (I didn't need my rotors turned, and I only needed my front brakes.
I would suggest getting the pads yourself and then letting a local mechanic install them.
I plan to do the same. My Honda dealer wants $229.00 for my front brakes of my Civic 2001 EX.
Any good places to buy Honda OEM brake pads, nothing fancy but replacements just like originals.
BTW I have heard so much about Midas that I don;t even look in that direction when I pass em daily on my way to work.
I plan to do the same. My Honda dealer wants $229.00 for my front brakes of my Civic 2001 EX.
Any good places to buy Honda OEM brake pads, nothing fancy but replacements just like originals.
BTW I have heard so much about Midas that I don;t even look in that direction when I pass em daily on my way to work.
Yes that is what was said. I said it. Normally no reason to turn a rotor unless it's warped.
BTW, you said:
There are many reasons to cut a rotor, and a few that can ruin a rotor.
And never gave the other reasons to cut. You then said:
Overheating, hardenting, cracking, blueing, and warping are all very good reasons to replace a rotor.
You gave reasons to "replace". I never said anything about when to replace or not replace a rotor.
And you do know that many mechanics sand the rotor to purposely remove the burnish you say is good? Who cares about a break in period.
Yes when turning, material is removed, but that's why there are minumum thickness specifications. I'd rather remove a little material if I can, than to put up with a warped rotor, or buy a new rotor. Maybe it'll warp ever so lightly quicker (if it's in spec) than if that material wasn't removed, but at least I got another use out of it before replacing it.
I've worked at a few shops incl. dealership service and they never really followed what you're saying and never had problems.
Rotors do not warp. Pulsations or rotor thickness variances are caused by uneven pad transfer.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...warped_rotors_myth.htm
However, it is very important when changing pads to get all of the old pad transfer off of the rotor, so the new pad compound does not conflict with the old compound, and cause nasty things like severe rotor grooving and permanent damage to aluminum wheels. This is done with brake cleaner and some sandpaper.
for most commuter cars, it is not much more money to just replace the rotor. I certainly never turn rotors on my racecar.
For those of you going to midas for your brakes (and probably paying $300+ for a brakejob) you would be surprised how easy it is, and how few tools it requires to do it yourself. For well under $100
UsandThem
Elite Member
- May 4, 2000
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Hey, come on, its Axl, not Axel Rose. You don't need vowels for that guy's name.
Also, for the price of dealer pads and labor, you're just better off buying good aftermarket pads. Porterfield R4S pads might run you $80 an axle, and it's not like it takes more than an hour of your own time to install them. If you really don't want to, take it to a shop. One man hour of labor should run about $60, for a total of ~140, and you'll have a set of pads superior to just about any OEM.
quote:
Originally posted by: elgorey
Rotors do not warp.
You have absoluetly no idea what you are talking about do you?
I will second that.
I read the article in the link and totaly disagree! 14 years as a mechanic/service manager, and have personnly inspected probably thousands of brake rotors. THEY DO WARP! And if they are machined to much, they can warp very quickly. Most of the discussion here has been pretty good, and maybe what the cause of a vibration is not important to most people, but I had to comment on such misinformation.
Originally posted by: elgorey
Rotors do not warp.
You have absoluetly no idea what you are talking about do you?
I will second that.
I read the article in the link and totaly disagree! 14 years as a mechanic/service manager, and have personnly inspected probably thousands of brake rotors. THEY DO WARP! And if they are machined to much, they can warp very quickly. Most of the discussion here has been pretty good, and maybe what the cause of a vibration is not important to most people, but I had to comment on such misinformation.
Midas once charged my wife $340 for a brake job that I could have done for $60. I was out of town and told her to take the car in when the brakes started making some noise (most brake systems have some sort of advance warning before the problem becomes serious).
Midas scared her into a complete system overhaul and overcharged her at least twice what it was worth.
Two years later, when their cheap pads had worn out, we find that their warranty is only good for the part. Addtional labor, just to change pads, would be over $120.
I will never do business with Midas again.
Midas scared her into a complete system overhaul and overcharged her at least twice what it was worth.
Two years later, when their cheap pads had worn out, we find that their warranty is only good for the part. Addtional labor, just to change pads, would be over $120.
I will never do business with Midas again.
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