Microwave vs stove - Heating water

[lxskllr]

It has to do with the fact that you're a pious little shithead.

Hmm... Pious?

 

[fleabag]

Graph them together. I bet as you drive both go up together then back down together when you park.

The only correct way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it, but the argument about warming up the truck in winter at lake tahoe was about IDLING a vehicle to warm it up. You can't idle a vehicle to warm it up and expect the tire pressure to go up. You want to warm up your tires and the car, you drive it because doing it any other way is stupid.

 

[Jeff7]

<Raise hand>

Um, stupid question....what is "inflate to sidewall"?
I know it refers to tires, but is "inflate to sidewall" = "inflate to the pressure indicated on the outside of the tire"?

 

[lxskllr]

<Raise hand>

Um, stupid question....what is "inflate to sidewall"?
I know it refers to tires, but is "inflate to sidewall" = "inflate to the pressure indicated on the outside of the tire"?

Yea, to the maximum pressure stated on the side.

 

[Jeff7]

Yea, to the maximum pressure stated on the side.

So, not to be Fleabag2 here, but why is it a bad idea to inflate a tire to the pressure indicated on the label? To what pressure should it be inflated? Wouldn't they label it with a safe pressure?

(Maybe these questions are answered in the original fleabag thread which started it all....might anyone have a link handy?)

 

[eits]

it depends on what kind of stove you have... some stoves can boil water in 90 seconds.

 

[fleabag]

<Raise hand>

Um, stupid question....what is "inflate to sidewall"?
I know it refers to tires, but is "inflate to sidewall" = "inflate to the pressure indicated on the outside of the tire"?

It refers to the fact that users on this board go into a heated discussion about NOT inflating their tires until the sidewall was at the proper height. They said that they could tell when the tires were "inflated to sidewall" when they observed the tires from the outside but it turns out they are wrong and that the only way to know the tire's pressure is when you use a pressure gauge.

 

[Jeff7]

Proper sidewall height? Huh...now you've lost me.

I do it the stupid, simple way: Inflate, check pressure with gauge, inflate a bit more, check pressure. If it's reasonably close to what the tire's label says, and if I'm tired of waiting for my slllooowww inflator, then I call it good enough.

 

[lxskllr]

So, not to be Fleabag2 here, but why is it a bad idea to inflate a tire to the pressure indicated on the label? To what pressure should it be inflated? Wouldn't they label it with a safe pressure?

(Maybe these questions are answered in the original fleabag thread which started it all....might anyone have a link handy?)

Inflating to max pressure COLD will give you better gas mileage and a firmer ride at the expense of a bit less rubber on the road. You may have more of a tendency to slip, especially in wet or snow.

Edit:
Stated pressure on the label may be higher than manufacturer specs. I inflate mine to the max on the sidewall. In winter I sometimes lower it for snow driving. Btw, if you drive to the gas station, no matter how close, your tires are no longer cold. Your numbers will be lower if you check them again in the morning.

 

[fleabag]

Inflating to max pressure COLD will give you better gas mileage and a firmer ride at the expense of a bit less rubber on the road. You may have more of a tendency to slip, especially in wet or snow.

Well if that happens, possibly you added too much air.. Though the best part about adding more air to the tires is that it reduces the likelihood of hydroplaning. I've never found what you've said to occur in straight line braking, but what I have found is that one shouldn't take corners too quickly when it's slick outside, otherwise you might end up kissing the curb.

 

[lxskllr]

I drive a standard, and my Jeep is torquey in the low end. If I have to start on a slight incline in the snow, the tires slip easily. I'm not willing to burn out my clutch to baby it off the hill. It's easier to run less air in the tires.

 

[zinfamous]

Hmm... Pious?

that confused me as well

 

[alkemyst]

I am so hot I just dip a couple fingers in. About 2mins to boil for a large pot.

 

[Rubycon]

How about inflating to sidewall with R502?

What is the purpose of boiling water? It will boil at room temp if you use a vacuum pump. Of course if you're boiling to make it HOT that is about as useless (in fleabag terms) as following the door placard in regards to proper tire inflation. (deflection at operating load to maintain optimal footprint is where ideal inflation pressure is supposed to be IIRC. )

Oh and the nightmare begins as you wake up - with Folgers in your cup!

 

[x-alki]

Poor fleabag, he can't post in the garage anymore so he has to bring his idiot car theories to OT.

 

[PottedMeat]

that confused me as well

i have no idea what the hell that's about.

why is he banned from the garage and free to roam about here? wouldn't it be better to keep him walled up in there?

 

[DrPizza]

Regardless of whether or not it would work at lake tahoe in winter, the bigger problem would be the coolant's toxicity. But even if you had a heat exchanger with a heat exchanger, there would be too much heat loss, not to mention the fact that coolant temperatures rarely get that high in the coolant alone, let alone when you have the loss between two heat exchangers.

Oh and for the asshats that are going to say, "but my car's temperature regularly gets to 230F", I don't give a shit about your crappy corvette or any other such vehicle for that matter because.

Are you implying that when I turn the air on to hot in my car in the winter time that it's toxic?? And, since you're Mr. maximize efficiency, you realize that engines are more efficient at higher temperatures, right? That's one of the reasons engineers spent years trying to develop ceramic engines.

 

[fleabag]

Are you implying that when I turn the air on to hot in my car in the winter time that it's toxic?? And, since you're Mr. maximize efficiency, you realize that engines are more efficient at higher temperatures, right? That's one of the reasons engineers spent years trying to develop ceramic engines.

Too...much..to...handle!


Alright, how about this, why don't you explain to the world why there is a correlation between the size of my shoes and pollen count in April while we're at it.

 

[disappoint]

Roasting in a Peabag fred.

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

Induction elements will boil a given volume of water faster than any other standard heating method used for cooking. Yes, electric kettles are very efficient but the ultimate measure is not just efficiency but total BTUs of heat produced + efficiency. Induction stovetops can produce more BTUs more efficiently (@ 85&#37 than any other heating method currently available. Current induction stopetops can boil a quart of water in @ 30 seconds.

 

[Sho'Nuff]

that confused me as well

I believe he meant to say, "pompous."

 

[x-alki]

Looks like fleabag is itching for another ban. Can the next one be permanent?

 

[Tiamat]

Are you dumb?

Resistive heating is 100% efficient, and most of it ends up in the water. There will be a small loss in the wiring, and some heat leaking from the pot, but the vast majority will be in the water. It's like taking a pot and sticking the stove burner inside it.

lower voltage? I don't see the relevance. I2R losses in the wiring are damn near zero (which is why the cord doesn't melt).

qft

 

[ShawnD1]

I'm thinking the most efficient way, energywise, to bring water to a boil would be by reducing the pressure above the water to near vacuum.

Are we trying to boil water or are we cooking food?

Another thing to do to make water boil faster is to add something with a lower boiling point. Adding acetone to water makes it evaporate much faster. In the chem lab we use acetone to dry glassware.

So, not to be Fleabag2 here, but why is it a bad idea to inflate a tire to the pressure indicated on the label? To what pressure should it be inflated? Wouldn't they label it with a safe pressure?

The label on the tire and the label on the car have two different meanings. The tire's max pressure loosely indicates how much weight the tires can theoretically hold. You want the tires to remain flat and have a lot of surface on the road, so a combination of this expected area and max sidewall pressure indicates how much weight is on that tire. the car's pressure spec is similar but the opposite. the car company knows how much weight will be on that tire and they know how much surface area the tire needs to be safe, so a combination of that will tell you the ideal pressure for this particular car.

Example: cars often list the front tires as being higher pressure than the back tires. This is because the bulk of the car weight is on the front tires. You want both the front and back tires to have the same surface area on the road, so the front tires must have higher pressure to make this happen. Does that make sense?

Are you implying that when I turn the air on to hot in my car in the winter time that it's toxic?? And, since you're Mr. maximize efficiency, you realize that engines are more efficient at higher temperatures, right? That's one of the reasons engineers spent years trying to develop ceramic engines.

Higher temp doesn't always mean more efficient, but engines definitely have a preferred temperature. My Corolla drives like fuck when it's cold, but it only drives like shit once it's warmed up, so cold is obviously bad. Similarly, if an engine is too hot, fuel will detonate too fast and the engine will begin to knock. Too hot is also bad. We established how this works in that garage thread about the 1000HP car that is hard to drive. It's a really interesting thread

 

[Born2bwire]

Very nice. Though you need to have the pots/pans for it or buy new.

I don't like them because of that. For example, aluminum does not work on induction cookers unless it has a ferrite core. That means I have to get one of the ugly modern art stainless steel Moka pots than the traditional aluminium version. Minor quibble aside, the cookers that I have used, very cheap ones though, do a very bad job of cooking because the cooker works in pulses. I guess if I used a good solid cast iron pan the heating would even out but with a simple pot or pan this causes the heat to cycle up and done. Personally, I would prefer a traditional hotplate as I have more even heating and a variable heat setting (the cookers that I have use predefined heat settings but I'm sure better ones avoid this problem).