Looking for new, high-performance yet noiseless WC set

[T2k]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Nice link, T! Pumps are a lot of fun to talk about, especially with knowledgable guys like Cathar.

What do you think about this BlueLink HD20 pump I've linked above?

They claim it's quieter than Iwaki yet it's still 420 g/h, one year warranty etc...

 

[slsmnaz]

Originally posted by: T2k

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Nice link, T! Pumps are a lot of fun to talk about, especially with knowledgable guys like Cathar.

What do you think about this BlueLink HD20 pump I've linked above?

They claim it's quieter than Iwaki yet it's still 420 g/h, one year warranty etc...

But it has 3/4 in and out. You'd have to make it fit your system.

 

[HardWarrior]

For the most part, I think a pump is a pump. As long as it's well suited to your needs and will last a while it's all good.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: slsmnaz

Originally posted by: T2k

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Nice link, T! Pumps are a lot of fun to talk about, especially with knowledgable guys like Cathar.

What do you think about this BlueLink HD20 pump I've linked above?

They claim it's quieter than Iwaki yet it's still 420 g/h, one year warranty etc...

But it has 3/4 in and out. You'd have to make it fit your system.

Agreed, but some people love that sort of work. I'm not one of them though.

 

[slsmnaz]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior

Originally posted by: slsmnaz

Originally posted by: T2k

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Nice link, T! Pumps are a lot of fun to talk about, especially with knowledgable guys like Cathar.

What do you think about this BlueLink HD20 pump I've linked above?

They claim it's quieter than Iwaki yet it's still 420 g/h, one year warranty etc...

But it has 3/4 in and out. You'd have to make it fit your system.

Agreed, but some people love that sort of work. I'm not one of them though.

I did enough work on my set-up, I don't need the hastle of fitting a pump.

There was a Rheobus that was pwm but it was the 3.5" model.

 

[T2k]

Originally posted by: slsmnaz

Originally posted by: T2k

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Nice link, T! Pumps are a lot of fun to talk about, especially with knowledgable guys like Cathar.

What do you think about this BlueLink HD20 pump I've linked above?

They claim it's quieter than Iwaki yet it's still 420 g/h, one year warranty etc...

But it has 3/4 in and out. You'd have to make it fit your system.

Well, that's my outer diameter... correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it just a simple fitting with 1/2 on my side, 3/4 on the other and a piece of 3/4 to connect it to the pump and couple of clamps?

 

[T2k]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
For the most part, I think a pump is a pump. As long as it's well suited to your needs and will last a while it's all good.

Well, you brought up those Iwaki pumps first...

 

[slsmnaz]

Originally posted by: T2k

Originally posted by: slsmnaz

Originally posted by: T2k

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Nice link, T! Pumps are a lot of fun to talk about, especially with knowledgable guys like Cathar.

What do you think about this BlueLink HD20 pump I've linked above?

They claim it's quieter than Iwaki yet it's still 420 g/h, one year warranty etc...

But it has 3/4 in and out. You'd have to make it fit your system.

Well, that's my outer diameter... correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it just a simple fitting with 1/2 on my side, 3/4 on the other and a piece of 3/4 to connect it to the pump and couple of clamps?

You'll need to get a 3/4 fpt x 1/2 barb fitting. Not sure what affect that would have on your flow. I was always advised to keep it all close to the same size but I'm new here too!

 

[T2k]

OK I'm pretty much done with my setup - the only remaining item is the pump but most likely it will be a BluLine HD20.
'Chipset-wise' I've checked Swiftech's MCW30 compatibility list and DFI's RDX200 is listed - which looks exactly the same as my new CFX3200:
http://www.dfi.com.tw/Upload/Product_Picture/rdx200.jpg
http://www.dfi.com.tw/Upload/Product_Picture/CFX3200-DR.jpg

 

[T2k]

1 Black Ice Pro III Triple 120mm Radiator
Choose your Color: Blue
Choose your fittings: x2 1/2in. ID barbs (+1.00)
1 Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Reservoir
1 Swiftech STORM Rev 2 Universal High Performance block
1 Sidewinder Rheostat
1 Tygon 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Laboratory Tubing #R3603
Choose your length: 10 feet
1 Pump Relay Switch Kit v3
1 Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler
20 Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/16 in. to 25/32 in.

 

[T2k]

OK, Yate Loons are also on the way, case will be ordered tomorrow. Time to go to bed...

 

[T2k]

YAte Loons are not on the way - this Jab-Tech is simply R-I-D-I-C-U-L-O-U-S. They sent some stupid email regarding some screwup from my bank - interestingly enough every other order went through fine - and when I went to their ite, ther's NO PHONE#, NO EMAIL, just a stupid form-based contact system. Then I sent a reply to the adresses they sent their emails from - bounced back 24 hrs later. Well, I guess then *&^% off, J-T, I'll spend my money somewhere else...

Update: second email to billing@jab-tech.com has been bounced too, despite they explicitely suggest using it on their website: "...simply email [email]billing@jab-tech.com[/email] with the bank details and we will attempt to verify the address.". Sure, after all this crap I'll send you my bank deails... :disgust:

 

[T2k]

Parts started to arrive today - earlier I've got my CPU and chips3et blocks, tubing, res, clamps, rad, rheo, relay sw, my new mobo just arrived minutes ago - but I have just come across his review about the case I'm about to order: http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=10&page=8
Hmm... whereas the first problem doesn't exist in my case - my new mobo is a CFX3200, its layout is better -, the other two listed look pretty serious... and how will my beloved latch system work for a dual-slot VGA?

 

[HardWarrior]

I see it's all coming together. :thumbsup:

 

[T2k]

Well, sort of, yes - thanks for all the help here, first and foremost from you.:thumbsup:

But the case problem apparently really exist: my mobo sports this Karajan module and apparently the 120mm back fan of this Enermax Maxflow case doesn't really like it... and I have no idea how could I install my dual-slot X1900 using its latches either...

I guess I have to give up my latches and find another case :brokenheart: - another 'right-panel-opening' one so I can put it on the left side of my desk...

 

[T2k]

Another question: after closer inspection I've just realizeed my Swiftech Pump Relay Switch v2 came with two outlets, so could switch two external pumps... I was about to buy an Iwaki/Blueline (whichever comes cheaper) but Eheim 1048 is quieter than any of these, right? Pricewise two 1048s cost the same as one Iwaki/Blueline... shouldn't I go with two Eheim 1048s instead?

 

[T2k]

http://heatsinkfactory.com/shop/home.php?cat=303 - does any of these worth the extra $ over Yate Loons?

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: T2k
http://heatsinkfactory.com/shop/home.php?cat=303 - does any of these worth the extra $ over Yate Loons?

the sythe flex has the be the most quietest fans in the market. The Fluid Dynamic Bearing vs double ball bearings is a upgrade in technology. Most hard drives now are on fluid dynamic bearings and if you listened to how loud a old ball bearing hard drive sounds, you'll see the difference in sound quality. HOWEVER and i state HOWEVER, FDB's were ment to stay quiet at high RPM speeds, the sound difference between a undervolted yate loom and a sythe is bearly noticible. maybe around the range of 2-3db's

The choice is up to you however, FDB's were ment to last over time and so are double ball bearings. I have both in my system, 2 sythes in the front at 1200 rpms as intakes and 2 yate looms on my radiator. I cant tell the difference from both when there both on.

Also, i use the TT Armor case. Its a fabulous case because real estate is not a issue when it comes to adding things. Also, the design and layout of the case is just wonderful. Its heavy tho, my system probably weighs close to 75-80lbs fully loaded. Thats about a 8-10 yr old kid!! But it is probably the best case ive had. I hear the CM Staker 830 is nice and if u can afford it the Silverstone TJ-07 is suposed to be the diamond in case world.

But there is my 5 cents :]

 

[T2k]

Thank you for your input! I guess I'll go with the FDB ones - the difference is only few bucks.
However your case won't work for me: I want to put my case to my left side which requires a case that opens from its right. Since I also want front I/O and zero screws (thumbscrews are the minimum), preferably no door or anything like that.
As far as I can see after another day of reading I have two choices: Lian-Li V1000plusII (high-end) or Aerocool Masstige (mainstream)... lemmese':
Lian-Li: looks really nice (silver), thumbscrews but no reset button, ugly price tag
Masstige: Looks fine (silver), cost half of Lian-Li, reset button but not even thumbscrews...

Hmm, actually I can buy thumbscrews myself... and even if I buy the crazy fanless external 600W XG MAgnum EX PSU I'll be just around $300. I'd spend more if I could find *the* perfect case but if I can't, I won't.

BTW anybody knows anything about this PSU? 14cm fan... hmmm... sounds quiet... four rails... :lips: sweet...

 

[aigomorla]

u should really look at the CM stacker 830. Its pannels open on the right side. Also the
Silverstone TJ-07 will put a lian li to shame also. :X if you have uber amounts of money on the case, the TJ-07 would be my first pick, then the CM stacker, and last but not least the lian li.

But i still love my armor, and my rig is perfectly happy in its shell

 

[T2k]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
u should really look at the CM stacker 830. Its pannels open on the right side.

Really? Every review I've read showed the left... are you sure you aren't talking about BTX mobo style?

Also the
Silverstone TJ-07 will put a lian li to shame also. :X if you have uber amounts of money on the case, the TJ-07 would be my first pick, then the CM stacker, and last but not least the lian li.

Well, I'm ready to spend whatever it costs *IF* I get my dream silver/black mid-tower alu case: its windowed right panel opens from top or front, it's fully toolless inside including dual-slot PCI cards and HDDs, comes with front bottom or right-side edge I/O, sports Reset button and has multi thermal zoning.

But i still love my armor, and my rig is perfectly happy in its shell

 

[T2k]

EK-FCX1800 VGA block has arrived today- I'm impressed, one week from order to delivery, straight from Slovenia and its quality is reallly nice! Nice job, Eddy!

 

[T2k]

It seems I'll get another, single 120.1 rad for free - where should I put that?
And is it possible to separate the two pumps or it wouldn't make any difference, so it doesn't worth the extra tubing cost?

How about a res->pump->Storm->BIX 120.1->pump->EK-FCX1800->MCW30->BIP 120.3->res loop?

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: T2k
Well, sort of, yes - thanks for all the help here, first and foremost from you.:thumbsup:

But the case problem apparently really exist: my mobo sports this Karajan module and apparently the 120mm back fan of this Enermax Maxflow case doesn't really like it... and I have no idea how could I install my dual-slot X1900 using its latches either...

I guess I have to give up my latches and find another case :brokenheart: - another 'right-panel-opening' one so I can put it on the left side of my desk...

Its been a pleasure, T.

Is that the audio riser that mounts in the I/O cluster? I got one with my Expert but I already knew from reviews that it sucked hard compared to my ZS so I didn't use it.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: T2k
It seems I'll get another, single 120.1 rad for free - where should I put that?
And is it possible to separate the two pumps or it wouldn't make any difference, so it doesn't worth the extra tubing cost?

How about a res->pump->Storm->BIX 120.1->pump->EK-FCX1800->MCW30->BIP 120.3->res loop?

In theory two rads in a single loop seems like a fine idea, practice is something very different though. Radiators work at lot better with a high dT (delta T, difference in temperature between the coolant and the air whistling through the rad). With two rads in single loop you're depriving both rads of optimal operating conditions, not to mention adding restriction. Besides that, your 120.3 is more than capable of dissipating your current heat dump, and more.

For your parts I'd suggest:

Res->pump1->pump2->BIP3->Storm->GPU->MCW30

The temp difference between blocks will be 1c or less, so no problem there. Positioning your pumps (655's? 18watts a peice at setting 5) before your rad will assure highest possible dT. The res will pool warmed coolant, but your rad will wash that nicely. The actual placement of blocks doesn't matter TOO much, but there's nothing wrong with plumbing for as much efficiency as possible.