• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Looking for new, high-performance yet noiseless WC set

Page 4 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Originally posted by: HardWarrior
Originally posted by: T2k
It seems I'll get another, single 120.1 rad for free - where should I put that?
And is it possible to separate the two pumps or it wouldn't make any difference, so it doesn't worth the extra tubing cost?

How about a res->pump->Storm->BIX 120.1->pump->EK-FCX1800->MCW30->BIP 120.3->res loop?😕
Click to expand...

In theory two rads in a single loop seems like a fine idea, practice is something very different though. Radiators work at lot better with a high dT (delta T, difference in temperature between the coolant and the air whistling through the rad). With two rads in single loop you're depriving both rads of optimal operating conditions, not to mention adding restriction. Besides that, your 120.3 is more than capable of dissipating your current heat dump, and more.
Click to expand...

I see your point. thanks.

For your parts I'd suggest:

Res->pump1->pump2->BIP3->Storm->GPU->MCW30

The temp difference between blocks will be 1c or less, so no problem there. Positioning your pumps (655's? 18watts a peice at setting 5) before your rad will assure highest possible dT.
Click to expand...

Well, it will be 2 pcs of Eheim 1048... I'm expecting it'll be enough, even for such a restrictive block like Storm v2... 😉

The res will pool warmed coolant, but your rad will wash that nicely. The actual placement of blocks doesn't matter TOO much, but there's nothing wrong with plumbing for as much efficiency as possible.
Click to expand...

Sure. Every fitting is for 1/2 ID, so it shouldn't be a big deal... 😎
 
Phhhhhhhheewwwwww, what a relief: I bought my case, window panel, front bezel, PSU and even a cheap true 5.1 headphones for nighttime gaming.
Lian-Li V1000B Plus + window panel in black (my VFD comes in black) and a Seasonic 600W (only two 12V/18A rails but it's OK until I go CF).
Almost everything is here... pumps are on the way, as well as fans - now I just have to pick up an X1900 somewhere and I can start building it (well, sort of: I'm waiting for the new 7200.10-series 160/200/250 gig drives to be available but in the meantime I can just plug in my current SCSI 15K and keep using it as my system drive...) 😀
 
Originally posted by: T2k
It seems I'll get another, single 120.1 rad for free - where should I put that?
And is it possible to separate the two pumps or it wouldn't make any difference, so it doesn't worth the extra tubing cost?

How about a res->pump->Storm->BIX 120.1->pump->EK-FCX1800->MCW30->BIP 120.3->res loop?😕
Click to expand...

you wont need the extra rad, also having more rads will just lower your flow rate which is a very bad thing. I wouldnt even include it in your loop because a 2x120 rad will be good enough for a cpu and 2 video cards.
 
OK, I got it. 🙂

However I might be able to order a Physx card tomorrow, so I have to postpone the WC-assembly until it arrives: I want to hear how loud is it.
If it's audible, I'll put a block on it too (over at {H} somebody already did, so I know it has standard GF4 mounting). 🙂
 
I'm thinking hard about a Physx card as well. It's going to have to be small though. I'd catch hell trying to shoehorn in a full sized addon. :Q
 
Hmm, it seems the 1048 I bought off eBay comes with 3/8" ID barb in one of its 'take - does anybody know where can I buy a 1/2' ID barb to replace it?

Also is there any kind of anti-leaking quick-disconnect-style part? I don't plan to move my machine but if it becomes necessary, it'd be very helpful if I could just disconnect my pumps easily and with no water on the floor...
 
Originally posted by: T2k
Hmm, it seems the 1048 I bought off eBay comes with 3/8" ID barb in one of its 'take - does anybody know where can I buy a 1/2' ID barb to replace it?
Click to expand...

The intake is smaller than the exhaust? :Q A local aguarium specialty shop maybe, if such a thing exists. Perhaps here.

Also is there any kind of anti-leaking quick-disconnect-style part? I don't plan to move my machine but if it becomes necessary, it'd be very helpful if I could just disconnect my pumps easily and with no water on the floor...
Click to expand...

You'll find nice QD valves here. Look under "Pipe, Tubing, Hose and Fittings." This isn't the easiest site to navigate, but they don't fool around with shipping. 😉 Pay close attention to the sizes.

 
Thanks. Yeah, it sounds weird, maybe I just misunderstood something - I'll wait until I actually get it anyway (it's still traveling).
 
look though my store list for the one that sells innotek parts. They use the Ehiem pumps in there systems and might have sell a barb to allow it to go 1/2
 
Wow, this is powerful stupid: the used pump has arrived and indeed it sports two different barb size in its in/outtakes. Freaking weird setup.
 
Originally posted by: T2k
Wow, this is powerful stupid: the used pump has arrived and indeed it sports two different barb size in its in/outtakes. Freaking weird setup.
Click to expand...

nah most ehiems for watercooling are like that. if im mistaken the inlet should be bigger then the outlet. This is so it can draw water more freely while shoot it out at a higher pressure. Remember its not the L output but the pump height, pressure of water it can shoot out, thats the most important.

Im pretty sure this is a innotek ehiem pump. That thing will also require its own innotek resivour.
 
After further inspection I can tell that barbs are the same - 3/8 - but tubing were different - 1/2 and 3/8 - so what am I gonna do, I dunno... I guess I can just use the 3/8 fittings with my 1/2 tubing, right? It's just the question of clamping, isn't it?

Also my Physx has arrived too - where can I get a full-cover (w/ RAM) GF4 block for cheap?
 
IMO, it would be easier to find a peice of 3/8 inch ID than to try to securely attach 1/2 ID to a 3/8 inch barb.
 
you need 1/2" x 1/4" or 3/8" NPT barbs. or you could get a 1/2" T and cut the barbs off. then shave down the 3/8" barbs on the pump you already have. Epoxy the 1/2" cut barbs over the shaved down 3/8" barbs...or you can do what cathar told me to do and put a 1" piece of 3/8" tubing over the existing barbs then put the 1/2" tubing over that and tywrap or clamp it.

mcmaster part number
5463K465 - 1/2" x 1/4" NPT barbs
5463K467 - 1/2" x 3/8" NPT barbs
5228K27 - 1/2" x 3/8" NPT PushOn barbs - the best IMO
 
Any block for your PPU is going to need to take a great deal of factors into account for the right fit. I suspect there will be blocks for them soon, if they are a broadly accepted product. You might try contacting DangerDen to see if they have anything in the works.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top