little kitchen "refresh" project in the works

[Greenman]

buy some pipe and the fittings you need, glue them together with a hub p trap. I am done using that cheap shit with the compression fittings that never quite works out with proper slope/angles/etc. doing it with real pipe you can make it so that it takes up less space and will never leak or have a vent issue.

NIBCO 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Hub x Hub P-Trap with Union Joint C4895HD112 - The Home Depot

The NIBCO 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV P-Trap with union joint is used in residential and commercial drain, waste and vent systems. The PVC DWV P-Trap features a union joint and hub x hub connection. The P-Trap provides a water seal so that wastewater will automatically be trapped in the arc of the...

www.homedepot.com

Never had an issue with it, and it can't have a vent issue because the vent is behind it. It's also the same I.D. as PVC or ABS. In my experience it's a much more flexible and serviceable system than using glued pipe. Correctly installed it should be trouble free for decades.
Use whatever floats you boat. I've always operated on the premise that anything outside the wall should be easily serviceable.

 

[herm0016]

Never had an issue with it, and it can't have a vent issue because the vent is behind it. It's also the same I.D. as PVC or ABS. In my experience it's a much more flexible and serviceable system than using glued pipe. Correctly installed it should be trouble free for decades.
Use whatever floats you boat. I've always operated on the premise that anything outside the wall should be easily serviceable.

Still easy to service because you use a compression on the tail and have the hub on the trap.

 

[Greenman]

Still easy to service because you use a compression on the tail and have the hub on the trap.

Ok. I still don't see how the system is better. The fittings come in all the same angles and sizes, the same ID, it's just a glue or compression choice. If I saw some compelling reason to use it, I'd switch in a heartbeat.
If it's just that you find it easier to install, then that's what you should use. I have no problems installing the compression fittings, or getting a tight clean setup, and don't have to use solvent cement inside new cabinets.
It's a trivial issue.

 

[Homerboy]

Welp, order the counter tops. Go the faucet. Picked up the flooring (LPV). Forgot about the shiplap before I checked out, but that can wait I guess.
The one thing that has thrown us for a curve ball is the sink. Apparently 30" composite (our cabinets are 33" outside to outside) sinks are a bit rare...

 

[bbhaag]

Welp, order the counter tops. Go the faucet. Picked up the flooring (LPV). Forgot about the shiplap before I checked out, but that can wait I guess.
The one thing that has thrown us for a curve ball is the sink. Apparently 30" composite (our cabinets are 33" outside to outside) sinks are a bit rare...

Can't wait to see how it turns out. Be sure to post some before and after pics!

 

[herm0016]

ALFI brand AB3020UM-T Alfi Trade 29-7/8" Undermount Single | Build.com

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www.build.com

Build.com has great selection. Decent prices. I have gotten quite a bit from them. Whole bathroom sink/faucet package, whole door hardware package for a house, etc. The seemto know the products, Like offering key alike for door knobs, even if you want different styles and finishes, proper drains for the sinks you get, etc instead of figuring it out yourself.

 

[Sukhoi]

With a composite sink be careful to not crack it when tightening down the drain fittings.

 

[Homerboy]

well, now we're in a dead lock because my wife has decided to paint the cabinets. Of course it has now been two days of color samples, for the walls, shiplap and cabinets. A few test samples etc etc. She just can not decide.

That being said. I'm going to get started on the flooring ASAP (coming weekend) If I'm tearing up the existing laminate flooring, and laying down LPV on the plywood subfloor, do I need an underlayment?

 

[Greenman]

well, now we're in a dead lock because my wife has decided to paint the cabinets. Of course it has now been two days of color samples, for the walls, shiplap and cabinets. A few test samples etc etc. She just can not decide.

That being said. I'm going to get started on the flooring ASAP (coming weekend) If I'm tearing up the existing laminate flooring, and laying down LPV on the plywood subfloor, do I need an underlayment?

Check the specs in the box to start. Then take a critical look at the sub floor. Any ridges or valleys will telegraph through the flooring.

 

[Homerboy]

Check the specs in the box to start. Then take a critical look at the sub floor. Any ridges or valleys will telegraph through the flooring.

guess the tear-out/up is step #1. I'm guessing that laying down a thin cork underlayment isn't going to hurt anything. At worst, it will make a (nominally) more comfortable floor and even out any imperfections in the sub.

 

[Greenman]

guess the tear-out/up is step #1. I'm guessing that laying down a thin cork underlayment isn't going to hurt anything. At worst, it will make a (nominally) more comfortable floor and even out any imperfections in the sub.

Check the specs before you use any underlayment. There are certainly specific requirements. I haven't used enough of the material to have any expertise.

 

[Homerboy]

Check the specs before you use any underlayment. There are certainly specific requirements. I haven't used enough of the material to have any expertise.

yeah after the last post I just went and looked

Home Decorators Collection 7.1 in. W Ash Clay Click Lock Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring (23.44 sq. ft./case) S422105 - The Home Depot

Backed by a lifetime residential warranty and 5 year commercial warranty, Home Decorators Collection ash clay vinyl flooring is beautiful and durable, making it the perfect solution for any home. Install

www.homedepot.com

Underlayment is apparently pre-attached.

 

[Greenman]

yeah after the last post I just went and looked

Home Decorators Collection 7.1 in. W Ash Clay Click Lock Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring (23.44 sq. ft./case) S422105 - The Home Depot

Backed by a lifetime residential warranty and 5 year commercial warranty, Home Decorators Collection ash clay vinyl flooring is beautiful and durable, making it the perfect solution for any home. Install

www.homedepot.com

Underlayment is apparently pre-attached.

Read the install requirements carefully. I've seen some that require a level of flatness that I've never seen in a wood framed floor system. My hunch is that it's a method of avoiding warranty claims.

 

[mrblotto]

Wow Homerboy, very very nice indeed! I've been doing a TON of stuff around our house too. Well, I've been doing the easy stuff lol. I'll make a post about it as I dont wanna hijack this one. Just wanted to say way cool!
*goes to store*
*buys cap*
*doffs cap in Homerboy's general direction*

Oh, I'm not sure what 'rolling shelving' is?

 

[Homerboy]

Wow Homerboy, very very nice indeed! I've been doing a TON of stuff around our house too. Well, I've been doing the easy stuff lol. I'll make a post about it as I dont wanna hijack this one. Just wanted to say way cool!
*goes to store*
*buys cap*
*doffs cap in Homerboy's general direction*

Oh, I'm not sure what 'rolling shelving' is?

shelving that rolls out of the cabinet. Sort of like a (flat) drawer within the cabinet. Priceless for pots and pans and being able to get that stuff in the back of a cabinet WAY more easily. It's pretty much a must-have

 

[Homerboy]

Weekend Update:

After weeks of agonizing and paint samples and test boards, my wife had the 3 paint colors picked out (cripes)

Ceiling painted. Didn't get new fixtures up yet though as we had to paint one of them.

Chipped away the sidewall tile so installers could get better/accurate measurements (they are coming Friday to measure)

Built a new cabinet/shelf for above the fridge. We got a new fridge last year and it was taller than the old so had to remove the cabinet at the time. Couldn't really find one to match existing (and expensive) so after a year of a bare wall decided to just build something.

It's nothing special, but I'm proud of it (minus don't janky cuts that will be hidden). Sadly, lumber is out of control. That's $110 of wood and I took the cheap route for 3 of the panels.


Wife's supposed to start cutting in the walls and trim this week (we'll see ) We'll get the fixtures up some night too I hope.

Black sink was delivered at it looks rad.

 

[highland145]

..

 

[Homerboy]

..

You don't know how many people have sent me that. Somebody said though that if you look up the sku in that picture nothing comes up. And plywood was not THAT expensive when I went. 2x4' cabinet plywood was $30. I bought 2 of those, and 2 end-glued 2/x4 sheets at $20 a piece.

Regardless, lumber is a JOKE right now. Insane.
Seems the housing boom (and renovations and do-it-yourself projects that people are doing during quarantine and with their Biden Bucks), coupled with a reduced supply chain has really put the squeeze on the industry.

In fact here's a search for 3/4 plywood

Search Results for 3/4 plywood 4x8 at The Home Depot

Search Results for 3/4 plywood 4x8 at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

nothing comes close that $90 price tag.

 

[highland145]

You don't know how many people have sent me that. Somebody said though that if you look up the sku in that picture nothing comes up. And plywood was not THAT expensive when I went. 2x4' cabinet plywood was $30. I bought 2 of those, and 2 end-glued 2/x4 sheets at $20 a piece.

Regardless, lumber is a JOKE right now. Insane.
Seems the housing boom (and renovations and do-it-yourself projects that people are doing during quarantine and with their Biden Bucks), coupled with a reduced supply chain has really put the squeeze on the industry.

In fact here's a search for 3/4 plywood

Search Results for 3/4 plywood 4x8 at The Home Depot

Search Results for 3/4 plywood 4x8 at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

nothing comes close that $90 price tag.

It was on the internet so it has to be true.

3/4 plywood is $60ish here. Hate it for all of the contractors/buyers. Houses don't stay on the market and the prices are high.

 

[Homerboy]

Update:

Knocked out the floor this weekend. I was a little disappointed when I tore up the existing laminate (pictured below) as I would have sworn that when the kitchen was remodeled 20 years ago they took out the existing linoleum. But apparently they didn't. Regardless, it was all leveled and smoothed out for the most part so I was able to lay over the top of it. Just left me with the same large transitions between rooms. The LPV was kinda a pain in the ass as I had to start in that door way with small pieces, then work around into the the space under the stove, get all the courses matching up etc. And when you don't have a solid wall to pound against, every whack with the hammer moves every damn piece you've already laid down. Between the 3 doorways, the pantry door, the door to the basement and the door into the bathroom (which I still need to replace the flooring in, but that's happening after the kitchen is entirely done) it was a very tedious and repetitive job as I had to keep going back and re-anchoring/adjusting.

Did the tear out on Saturday along with a few new pieces then went from 9am-6pm on Sunday. I am REALLY freaking sore today. The pics aren't a good respresentation of the flooring - there isn't as much of the "white" areas as it looks like in the pics.

Countertops on the 5th. Wife has a lot of painting to do on the cabinets still

 

[Homerboy]

Countertops installed.
Plumber coming tonight to hook up faucet etc. Normally I would do myself, but I found a friend of a friend who does side jobs and there is just no way it's not worth paying him the money versus me trying to get up between that sink basin and the wall to secure that faucet. I'm too fat, old and tired to wrestle with that.

There's some raging debate (mostly internally with myself) going on with how to do the backsplash in some areas. I wish the previous installers did not put tile on the side walls. Forcing me to do the same now.

 

[deadlyapp]

Did you think about getting some smaller pieces of the countertop cut up so you could use that as the "trim" for the counter? Would be a nice transition, just have to caulk the base of it and just glue it to the wall as long as it is mostly flat.

 

[Homerboy]

Did you think about getting some smaller pieces of the countertop cut up so you could use that as the "trim" for the counter? Would be a nice transition, just have to caulk the base of it and just glue it to the wall as long as it is mostly flat.

You mean like a little 3 inch "heal wall" going up the backsplash? If so, while you can do it and many people do, it's not that "fashionable" anymore it seems. In fact you can see the line on the exposed wall from our previous countertops that had it.

 

[herm0016]

looks great! you can always skim it with joint compound and sand flat / paint for the sides. agree that it would look cleaner than doing some trim on the edge to cover the end of the ship lap. the "countertop curb" is way out of style. looks a lot cleaner without it.

 

[Homerboy]

looks great! you can always skim it with joint compound and sand flat / paint for the sides. agree that it would look cleaner than doing some trim on the edge to cover the end of the ship lap. the "countertop curb" is way out of style. looks a lot cleaner without it.

Thanks! I don't mind the sidewalls being covered. The only real debate/issue is one spot shown below.
See the side wall on the right of the stove? the backsplash will go on that wall too, but how/where do we finish it?
Does it go just to the edge of the counter top and stop? then have a top and edge trim on it?
Does it go all the way to the door molding and then down to the baseboard too? and only have a top trim? If I do that, then I think we need to copy that "shiplap as wainscoting" look around the rest of the kitchen as well too? This is a huge debate right now in my head and my wife is sick of hearing about it

Sadly, I also realized yesterday that I need to get outlet "extensions" to make up for the 9/16" depth of the shiplap. Didn't think about that. Also there's a slight issue with the handle on the faucet hitting the back wall in the off position. there's just not enough space. Going to have to have the faucet turned a little. Millions of little things...