adairusmc
Diamond Member
- Jul 24, 2006
- 7,095
- 78
- 91
I do have a question about my surefire's for anyone who knows -
Normally I use the surefire or pentagon branded 123A batteries, but I ran out today and saw wal-mart had 123 photo batteries for it (although much more expensive). Can those energizer or duracell 123 batteries be used with no issue? I noticed that they did not say 123A just 123. Just curious.
Normally I use the surefire or pentagon branded 123A batteries, but I ran out today and saw wal-mart had 123 photo batteries for it (although much more expensive). Can those energizer or duracell 123 batteries be used with no issue? I noticed that they did not say 123A just 123. Just curious.
adairusmc
Diamond Member
- Jul 24, 2006
- 7,095
- 78
- 91
Originally posted by: Nebor
Yes, 123 and 123As are compatible.
But 123s are much easier to come by in SHTF situations.
Thanks.
I use my surefire's a lot for work, and I used up my last two 123a's today. Just curious if I could use the more expensive energizer ones as a backup.
I am gonna order a 30 or so pentagon 123a's though. I like paying less than two dollars a piece a lot better than $10.00 for a 2 of the name brand ones at wally world.
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Yes of course however comparing emitters of today to ones of 2003 is like comparing a C2D to a 2.4GHz P4.
Yes the ARC's were that much. Even the AAA ones that they sell now are overpriced IMO.
I do have a Novatac EDC-P120 reserved though.
It's amazing how much the EDC 120 brightness and runtime improves over the EDC 60. I saw the runtime graph a few days ago. 120Lumens for 40 minutes AND then 60lumens for 65 minutes and it keepins going..
EDC-120 runtime graph
It was only a couple of years ago that it was a struggle to really get 60 lumens out for 30-40minutes.
mugs
Lifer
- Apr 29, 2003
- 48,920
- 46
- 91
Originally posted by: adairusmc
Originally posted by: Nebor
Yes, 123 and 123As are compatible.
But 123s are much easier to come by in SHTF situations.
Thanks.
I use my surefire's a lot for work, and I used up my last two 123a's today. Just curious if I could use the more expensive energizer ones as a backup.
I am gonna order a 30 or so pentagon 123a's though. I like paying less than two dollars a piece a lot better than $10.00 for a 2 of the name brand ones at wally world.
I usually use Battery Station's store brand CR123As.
http://www.batterystation.com/cr123a.htm
They have special pricing for members of Candlepowerforums.
They scored pretty well in the 123 battery shootout: http://www.candlepowerforums.c...showthread.php?t=67078
When you combine the price and performance, they're a great value.
Skip the Mag LED modules, they are a flawed design with poor heatsinking and their output diminishes quickly when in use.
Try a TerraLux from Batteryjuncion.com for $25. The 3D-6D module is pretty solid. There is a "B" version (boost) for 2 cell models, but I've hears some quality complaints on this version.
However, as many of the people here state, there are an amazing amount of options in flashlights these days. From Mag85 or ROP kits down to the cheap AA China pocket torches running CREE XR-E's, you really can't go wrong.
Try a TerraLux from Batteryjuncion.com for $25. The 3D-6D module is pretty solid. There is a "B" version (boost) for 2 cell models, but I've hears some quality complaints on this version.
However, as many of the people here state, there are an amazing amount of options in flashlights these days. From Mag85 or ROP kits down to the cheap AA China pocket torches running CREE XR-E's, you really can't go wrong.
I was under the impression that the heatsinking problem was inherent to the design of the mag body itself and not the drop-in led modules.
So isn't the Terralux just going to cook itself w/o any sort of improvement to the heatsink or a dimming feature like the mag?
Well, the Mags bodies are certainly a non-ideal design from a host perspective, in terms of heat dissipation. However, their are solutions which make the best out of what's there. From the extremely low output of the NiteEyez (and hence no heat problems!
) to Gene Malkoff's nicely crafted slugs, there are designs to mitigate the heat limitations.Based on what I've read, and the lights I've messed with, the TL is a good tradeoff in design. It may sacrifice longevity of the emitter (that remains to be seen, but mine is still running strong), but it seems to be a better performing option. And for the crafty, there seem to be some mods that can be done to the TL module for even better performance.
And, I suppose my negative tone on the Mag module is primarily due to my disappointment that all Mag did was to deal with the same limitations that they originally designed, rather than updating the housing/socket for better performance in their LED products.
RadiclDreamer
Diamond Member
- Aug 8, 2004
- 8,622
- 40
- 91
initial results do look good on tint, I'm not going to buy any new bodies until I see some more results. I already spend too much on hotwires this month. I hope DX has a rebel 6p drop-in soon, I'll buy that if its good.
0roo0roo
No Lifer
- Sep 21, 2002
- 64,795
- 84
- 91
you might want the new rayovac 150
http://www.candlepowerforums.c...howthread.php?t=168166
http://www.candlepowerforums.c...?p=2104602#post2104602
seems to use cree!! finally a cheap cree at big box stores
thing blows away mag upgrade, a brighter new flashlight for about the same price
http://www.candlepowerforums.c...howthread.php?t=168166
http://www.candlepowerforums.c...?p=2104602#post2104602
seems to use cree!! finally a cheap cree at big box stores
thing blows away mag upgrade, a brighter new flashlight for about the same price
I like my Fenix L2T. 2AA flashlights for the win. Considering I already have like 12 or so AAs cycling around in my house it's very convenient to throw another one in the rechargeable pile.
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