Intel "Coffee Lake" Builders Thread

[StinkyPinky]

I think 5Ghz is the realistic limit for the vast majority of 8700k cpus if you don't delid. I was curious and went for 5.1. I could get it, but it was hovering around 100. So right at the throttle limit. Once you hit around 4.9 the heat really starts to pile up, and it is untenable at 5.1 unless you delid or have some monster cooling solution.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Cool. I have no problem running my FTW3 stock. What games do you have that have built in graphics benchmarks? I know Resident Evil 6 has one and also Rise of Tomb Raider. We could also do Superposition, Firestrike, TimeSpy, etc.

Anyone else know what else we could run?

I'm not sure which games I own have built-in benches. Probably have to do canned benchmarks.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I would set a fixed voltage at 1.3 with LLC cranked up a decent amount to maintain a stable 1.3 vcore. It's not good to have drastic high swings in voltages randomly like that. Especially when it's not needed. There can be random background tasks that use AVX randomly (I've seen this for myself) which can drop clock speeds and or increase voltage. Even on a fresh install of windows, just sitting at idle you can occasionally see the avx offset come into play for what appears to be no given reason, it's kind of interesting actually. But ya, personally, I would set a fixed voltage, double check stability with a -2 offset and call it a day.

I am seeing an amazing result if the stability test holds. I went in and set Vcore to fixed at 1.3 and moved LLC up to level 2. The system crashed going into Windows. I went in and set Vcore to 1.35 and kept all other settings the same (LLC=2, 50X CPU and cache multiplier, and -2 AVX). Not only did it boot into Windows, but I'm running Prime small FFTs now. According to CPU-Z, the voltage is 1.232 at 4.8 Ghz (small FFT uses AVX, meaning my offset comes into play). Not only that, but I'm seeing max temps have dropped 5-7 degrees across all cores! The MAX core temp after 15 minutes is 70 and most are still in the 60s. Frankly, I can't believe my eyes and am probably going to kill it and restart it to see if I really did pick small FFT. Core 0 has maxed out at 64 degrees so far!

EDIT: Bumped voltage to 1.375 after a crash and after 25 minutes, 4 of the 6 cores are under 70 degrees during the Prime small FFT with the other two maxing at 72 and 71. I'm really starting to wonder if the offset voltage on the Taichi Z370 is broken given the voltages I was seeing and 5-7 degree warmer temps.

EDIT 2: Coming up on one hour, and Prime is still plugging away while I type this message and surf around on the same machine. As it stands now, max temp on 3 cores is below 70 while the other 3 cores have reached 73, 71, and 70. Voltage is fluctuating between 1.248 and 1.264 during this Prime run. Very pleased if this holds up and I KNOW there are some more features I can disable in the BIOS - anyone have a link to a good recent overclocking guide for BIOS setting changes for Skylake or Kabylake? I think I have the voltages under control (or very close), I'm just wondering what other tweaks and changes I can make to lower temps and voltage while maintaining stability.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

I would remount the cpu cooler and ensure that the thermal paste had a good spread across the entire IHS. Your temps are pretty high for what you have, I would look into it if I were you. I'm able to run MUCH MUCH more voltage with just a little kraken x61 cooler that is several years old.

His CPU isn’t delidded, so those temps probably aren’t that bad IMO.

I might anyhow, as I'm not super comfy with the temps. I wouldn't expect it to but... does thermal paste 'age' poorly? Should I just get another stick of AS5, or something better?

Also going to throw another fan into this thing, It's got a fair amount of negative pressure internally and I think it doesn't have enough airflow to feed the 3 fans on this radiator.

Side note, delidding is pretty idgit proof nowadays right? Get a tool (or send to some place to do for you), rip the top off, and throw in with a spacer plate (so the actual chip doesn't get crushed) then grease, mount, and enjoy -15c?

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I might anyhow, as I'm not super comfy with the temps. I wouldn't expect it to but... does thermal paste 'age' poorly? Should I just get another stick of AS5, or something better?

Also going to throw another fan into this thing, It's got a fair amount of negative pressure internally and I think it doesn't have enough airflow to feed the 3 fans on this radiator.

I'm using Arctic MX-4 paste and am pleased. I do have some older Arctic Silver in one of my parts boxes but couldn't tell you how long it is good for. I imagine as long as it is sealed, it is probably good for several years.

Side note, delidding is pretty idgit proof nowadays right? Get a tool (or send to some place to do for you), rip the top off, and throw in with a spacer plate (so the actual chip doesn't get crushed) then grease, mount, and enjoy -15c?

What you're referring to is direct die cooling. I believe most of us who delid aren't doing that - we still have the integrated heat sink. What delidding typically entails is removing the integrated heat sink, cleaning the glue and Intel's thermal paste off the CPU and board, applying a higher quality paste (Silicon Lottery is now using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, I believe), and then regluing the IHS on. In fact, if you set my delidded CPU next to one fresh out of the factory, they'd look exactly the same at first glance. The gap between the board and my IHS might be a little smaller, though.

 

[Campy]

(Silicon Lottery is now using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut,

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal is what they use, Kryonaut is their top of the line regular paste.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

I'm using Arctic MX-4 paste and am pleased. I do have some older Arctic Silver in one of my parts boxes but couldn't tell you how long it is good for. I imagine as long as it is sealed, it is probably good for several years.

That's what I figured, I've been using the same little tube for an age, seems to always be identical, I might have just not used enough of the stuff. I'll probably remount it tomorrow.

What you're referring to is direct die cooling. I believe most of us who delid aren't doing that - we still have the integrated heat sink. What delidding typically entails is removing the integrated heat sink, cleaning the glue and Intel's thermal paste off the CPU and board, applying a higher quality paste (Silicon Lottery is now using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, I believe), and then regluing the IHS on. In fact, if you set my delidded CPU next to one fresh out of the factory, they'd look exactly the same at first glance. The gap between the board and my IHS might be a little smaller, though.

Got it, wasn't sure if delidding included 'leave the stupid IHS off' or not. Man, I wish they'd just use liquid metal/solder for these chips. You'd think with a $400 purchase they'd spring for the extra few cents on the production line. I guess someone needs a bonus though.

Added another fan, *still* have a little negative pressure inside, but this one's half blocked by hard drives so I'm not expecting a huge amount there. Dropped idle to 29c, so a few degrees knocked off, and 4.9(4.4 on avx)@1.255 is humming along at 90c, 100% fan is at 75c, so well above that threshold. I definitely think it's 'not right'.

For reference, I had a 6700k on this at 4.7 or 4.8?@1.375v, that thing never breached 70c iirc.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal is what they use, Kryonaut is their top of the line regular paste.

They did use Conductonaut, but I thought I recently read they were switching to Kryonaut.

EDIT: Nevermind, you’re right - I had my pastes confused. I think they switched to Conductonaut from CLU.

 

[fastamdman]

That's what I figured, I've been using the same little tube for an age, seems to always be identical, I might have just not used enough of the stuff. I'll probably remount it tomorrow.


Got it, wasn't sure if delidding included 'leave the stupid IHS off' or not. Man, I wish they'd just use liquid metal/solder for these chips. You'd think with a $400 purchase they'd spring for the extra few cents on the production line. I guess someone needs a bonus though.

Added another fan, *still* have a little negative pressure inside, but this one's half blocked by hard drives so I'm not expecting a huge amount there. Dropped idle to 29c, so a few degrees knocked off, and 4.9(4.4 on avx)@1.255 is humming along at 90c, 100% fan is at 75c, so well above that threshold. I definitely think it's 'not right'.

For reference, I had a 6700k on this at 4.7 or 4.8?@1.375v, that thing never breached 70c iirc.

It's pretty easy to take off any heatsink / aio / block from a processor as you know. Instead of adding fans and worrying about things, simply take it off, look at the thermal paste application and reapply if it's not right. There should be a fairly even spread across the entire IHS of thermal paste. If there are large spots missing, this would cause the issue. Never be afraid of using "to much" thermal paste, as it's pretty difficult to negatively affect temperatures by using to much. I believe GN did a review on this, as did Jayz2cents (along with trying everything for a thermal compound, such as tooth paste). Just remount the block and make sure you have enough AS5 on there buddy. Before you know it, the temps will be within reason Also, make sure the voltage you are setting in your bios, is the voltage you are actually getting when a full load is on the cpu. Certain motherboards have different functions and abilities that can add MORE voltage, on top of what you are setting. Aka offsets, which could be making you put in 1.255 voltage and getting 1.355 voltage for example. Still though, I can run about 1.4 vcore through my chip before reaching your temperatures, so please remount that setup

 

[thxdd]

They did use Conductonaut, but I thought I recently read they were switching to Kryonaut.

EDIT: Nevermind, you’re right - I had my pastes confused. I think they switched to Conductonaut from CLU.

I was confused by a thread on their forum about some changes they were making. They no longer warranty their chips if people use liquid metal on the IHS as it removes the identifying info required to process warranty claims. They do still use Conductonaut between the IHS and die when delidding.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

It's pretty easy to take off any heatsink / aio / block from a processor as you know. Instead of adding fans and worrying about things, simply take it off, look at the thermal paste application and reapply if it's not right. There should be a fairly even spread across the entire IHS of thermal paste. If there are large spots missing, this would cause the issue. Never be afraid of using "to much" thermal paste, as it's pretty difficult to negatively affect temperatures by using to much. I believe GN did a review on this, as did Jayz2cents (along with trying everything for a thermal compound, such as tooth paste). Just remount the block and make sure you have enough AS5 on there buddy. Before you know it, the temps will be within reason Also, make sure the voltage you are setting in your bios, is the voltage you are actually getting when a full load is on the cpu. Certain motherboards have different functions and abilities that can add MORE voltage, on top of what you are setting. Aka offsets, which could be making you put in 1.255 voltage and getting 1.355 voltage for example. Still though, I can run about 1.4 vcore through my chip before reaching your temperatures, so please remount that setup

Yeah, not my first rodeo I probably went too stingy with the paste or accidentally smeared it weirdly when putting on the pump or something. No biggy.

Monitoring the v from various sources seems to indicate it's getting the correct amount, so it shouldn't be getting 'mystery overvolting' or anything. I think I'll be set once I redo the paste/mounting.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I was confused by a thread on their forum about some changes they were making. They no longer warranty their chips if people use liquid metal on the IHS as it removes the identifying info required to process warranty claims. They do still use Conductonaut between the IHS and die when delidding.

Correct. I had my pastes confused - I think they were using CLU and have moved to Conductonaut. Where I got confused was in the discussion you’re referring to - in that discussion, they mentioned not to use metal TIMs between the IHS and heatsink and to use something like kryonaut instead.

 

[AdamK47]

Cool. I have no problem running my FTW3 stock. What games do you have that have built in graphics benchmarks? I know Resident Evil 6 has one and also Rise of Tomb Raider. We could also do Superposition, Firestrike, TimeSpy, etc.

Anyone else know what else we could run?

Let me be the first to get this party started. I decided to install the GOG version of MDK recently since it was free.

Beat this:

 

[thxdd]

Let me be the first to get this party started. I decided to install the GOG version of MDK recently since it was free.

Beat this:

Haha, this made my morning!

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Let me be the first to get this party started. I decided to install the GOG version of MDK recently since it was free.

Beat this:

I actually still have my second PC build intact in my garage - a Pentium Pro overclocked to 233. Game on!

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Cool. I have no problem running my FTW3 stock. What games do you have that have built in graphics benchmarks? I know Resident Evil 6 has one and also Rise of Tomb Raider. We could also do Superposition, Firestrike, TimeSpy, etc.

Anyone else know what else we could run?

So, I looked through my Steam inventory. The game I play most right now is PUBG, but it doesn't have a built-in benchmark. I've got a lot of older games as well, but I don't see any that I know have benchmarks built-in. I can buy 3dmark on Steam for Time Spy and Firestrike if that's what we want to use.

 

[DrMrLordX]

PUBG is easy to benchmark! Just get caught up in some smoke grenades and see how fast the game is then.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

PUBG is easy to benchmark! Just get caught up in some smoke grenades and see how fast the game is then.

I have the standard recommended PUBG settings (low on everything and ultra on viewing distance IIRC), and at 1200P, I'm usually in the 140+ fps range.

 

[Campy]

I have the standard recommended PUBG settings (low on everything and ultra on viewing distance IIRC), and at 1200P, I'm usually in the 140+ fps range.

A bit off topic but I don't think view distance actually gives you much of any advantage in pubg, so that might be a good way to increase your fps.

 

[TahoeDust]

So, I looked through my Steam inventory. The game I play most right now is PUBG, but it doesn't have a built-in benchmark. I've got a lot of older games as well, but I don't see any that I know have benchmarks built-in. I can buy 3dmark on Steam for Time Spy and Firestrike if that's what we want to use.

The Resident Evil 6 Benchmark Tool is free on Steam. We can run that. Let's do it at 1080p and the highest settings.

 

[dbrons]

Speaking of testing, I havent done any other than watching my temps as I ran a repair operation with WinRar that would heat up my Sandy Bridge system. My 8700k did the operation in a bit less than half the time with temps rising only to 40 for a briief second, most of the time around 35-38.

I see on the splash screen at start up "overclock 29%" I had clicked on the performace tab of an auto overclock setting (Asus maximus XHero). I had previously set XMP which ran my ram at 3600 it's rated speed. It ran fine but since setting the overclock I see the ram is now running at 3200 so xmp must have been turned off by the performance settings.

I notice the cores run up to 4.7 which to me is pretty fast. But I'd kinda like to experiment a little. It runs very cool - using an H115 280mm Corsair I think I may have a real good cpu but I'm not real familliar with the settings I hear you guys discussing here (I do understand the basics of the multiplier, voltage etc.)

Any suggestions, or links to an overclocking guide that I should read? thanks
Dave

 

[IndyColtsFan]

The Resident Evil 6 Benchmark Tool is free on Steam. We can run that. Let's do it at 1080p and the highest settings.

I'll post the picture in a few minutes, but my score was 31148 and rank S.

EDIT: Here you go - sorry for the big pic. I left my 1080 Ti at default speeds and the 8700K was running at 5 Ghz (benchmark must use AVX, because clocks dropped to 4.8 Ghz and I have a -2 AVX offset).

 

[Campy]

Speaking of testing, I havent done any other than watching my temps as I ran a repair operation with WinRar that would heat up my Sandy Bridge system. My 8700k did the operation in a bit less than half the time with temps rising only to 40 for a briief second, most of the time around 35-38.

I see on the splash screen at start up "overclock 29%" I had clicked on the performace tab of an auto overclock setting (Asus maximus XHero). I had previously set XMP which ran my ram at 3600 it's rated speed. It ran fine but since setting the overclock I see the ram is now running at 3200 so xmp must have been turned off by the performance settings.

I notice the cores run up to 4.7 which to me is pretty fast. But I'd kinda like to experiment a little. It runs very cool - using an H115 280mm Corsair I think I may have a real good cpu but I'm not real familliar with the settings I hear you guys discussing here (I do understand the basics of the multiplier, voltage etc.)

Any suggestions, or links to an overclocking guide that I should read? thanks
Dave

Guide starts at around 5 minutes

 

[dbrons]

Guide starts at around 5 minutes

thanks Campy

 

[fastamdman]

I am seeing an amazing result if the stability test holds. I went in and set Vcore to fixed at 1.3 and moved LLC up to level 2. The system crashed going into Windows. I went in and set Vcore to 1.35 and kept all other settings the same (LLC=2, 50X CPU and cache multiplier, and -2 AVX). Not only did it boot into Windows, but I'm running Prime small FFTs now. According to CPU-Z, the voltage is 1.232 at 4.8 Ghz (small FFT uses AVX, meaning my offset comes into play). Not only that, but I'm seeing max temps have dropped 5-7 degrees across all cores! The MAX core temp after 15 minutes is 70 and most are still in the 60s. Frankly, I can't believe my eyes and am probably going to kill it and restart it to see if I really did pick small FFT. Core 0 has maxed out at 64 degrees so far!

EDIT: Bumped voltage to 1.375 after a crash and after 25 minutes, 4 of the 6 cores are under 70 degrees during the Prime small FFT with the other two maxing at 72 and 71. I'm really starting to wonder if the offset voltage on the Taichi Z370 is broken given the voltages I was seeing and 5-7 degree warmer temps.

EDIT 2: Coming up on one hour, and Prime is still plugging away while I type this message and surf around on the same machine. As it stands now, max temp on 3 cores is below 70 while the other 3 cores have reached 73, 71, and 70. Voltage is fluctuating between 1.248 and 1.264 during this Prime run. Very pleased if this holds up and I KNOW there are some more features I can disable in the BIOS - anyone have a link to a good recent overclocking guide for BIOS setting changes for Skylake or Kabylake? I think I have the voltages under control (or very close), I'm just wondering what other tweaks and changes I can make to lower temps and voltage while maintaining stability.

Sounds like a good chip for sure, that is pretty much where I am at. I've got 50x with 2avx off set as well with 1.375 volts set in the bios. I do have my LLC at 5 though. I know for me I am between 1.375 and 1.392 I believe it is for AVX. I could probably drop it a little bit, but my temps are completely fine here so I just kinda said screw it for now lol. I wanted to get my mining up and running and get some gaming in. I'm sure I could fine tweak it a bit more, but I have gotten into bitcoin mining so heavily now that I hate having down time lol. It's like wasted money to me haha.