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I'm about to lose it. Spent 3 hours on this. (Spent probably 10+ hours on this) SOLVD

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What cr2250 said.

What happens the next time you want to do this replacement? Do you want to go through this mess again? 😉
 
Ferzerp said:
What cr2250 said.

What happens the next time you want to do this replacement? Do you want to go through this mess again? 😉
Click to expand...

Read entire thread... then realized who the OP is.

Seriously, resolder your factory connector. check all your fuses, and plug your FACTORY stereo in to test everything.

Then go buy the adapter you need, and install your new head unit.
 
This is the best way and if you can not find the adapter locally, go to Crutchfield.com
They will have it and the ones they sell are sure to be the correct one for your car and radio.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701721/Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=2977

x120701721-f.jpeg


You still have to wire this to the radio, other end plugs into the factory harness of the car. It provides the following connections for the radio:

Connections:


  • 12V constant power
  • 12V switched power
  • chassis ground
  • power antenna turn-on
  • illumination
  • dimmer
  • left front speaker +/-
  • right front speaker +/-
  • left rear speaker +/-
  • right rear speaker +/-
 
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Who wouldn't buy the wiring harness adapter so that connecting your new receiver to your car would take less time than me typing this? Only Trident. Good luck. Next time do the opposite what your brain tells you.
 
I can't solder the connector back on guys. I don't have enough wire to do that. I cut it super short so that I would get as much wire to use as possible.

Only alternative would to go out and buy an old connector for my car and then the adapter... My soldering skills suck anyway and I don't know if I have a working soldering iron.
 
Capt Caveman said:
At this point and with your skills, I'd take it to a custom auto stereo shop and have them fix your mess.
Click to expand...
This. It isn't even a more complicated HU and a more aftermarket unfriendly car like the LS.
Getting a Z130BT installed in there correctly and working with the original factory audio is an experience I don't much care to relive 😵
 
First two rules of working on cars:
1. Trying to do something the cheap way will usually end up costing more.
2. Trying to do something the quick way will usually end up taking longer.

Looks like you figured this out the hard way.
 
Guys wtf. The thing will make whirring sounds when yellow power and yellow red from. At are put together but won't boot unless all the power wires are all connected together. I mean four in one big knot. Wtf.......
 
TridenT said:
I can't solder the connector back on guys. I don't have enough wire to do that. I cut it super short so that I would get as much wire to use as possible.

Only alternative would to go out and buy an old connector for my car and then the adapter... My soldering skills suck anyway and I don't know if I have a working soldering iron.
Click to expand...

Well since its already fucked up might as well make best of the situation 😀

Buy the damn harness (only will be using as a reference, unless you can re-solder to pins). Match up the pins with your factory harness. Use the factory harness to match the spliced wires.

Then when you have the original wires mapped out to the aftermarket wires, solder the original wires to the radio wires (knowing what each original wire was connected to).

Sooo here is a easy way to interpret what I just said.

A=wires you spiced off the factory harness
B=Factory harness
C=Aftermarket harness

A = B = C

You win!
 
WhoBeDaPlaya said:
This. It isn't even a more complicated HU and a more aftermarket unfriendly car like the LS.
Getting a Z130BT installed in there correctly and working with the original factory audio is an experience I don't much care to relive 😵
Click to expand...

Yeah, I installed a Pioneer (p3300BT) in my dad's vette.

In order to retain the factory door chimes and other stock features, I had to use this fancy relay (gmos-01). Also used a bypass since I didn't want to find the parking brake wire. So it was a wiring mess for a while till I got it all installed. I was scared that I may have missed one wire or two since I had to make so many connections 😀
 
TridenT said:
Guys wtf. The thing will make whirring sounds when yellow power and yellow red from. At are put together but won't boot unless all the power wires are all connected together. I mean four in one big knot. Wtf.......
Click to expand...

Umm, that sounds like you weren't turning the ignition on when you have them connected the way they're suppose to be. At least that's what I'm guessing since your english is working about as good as your stereo at this point. 😉
 
cr2250 said:
Yeah, I installed a Pioneer (p3300BT) in my dad's vette.

In order to retain the factory door chimes and other stock features, I had to use this fancy relay (gmos-01). Also used a bypass since I didn't want to find the parking brake wire. So it was a wiring mess for a while till I got it all installed. I was scared that I may have missed one wire or two since I had to make so many connections 😀
Click to expand...
Hopefully the pinouts were easily available. Trying to find detailed pinouts for the more uncommon factory nav/THX/amp setup was like trying to find the holy grail 😛
Incidentally, in the unlikely event anyone needs any info for the LS, feel free to hit me up on PM.
 
WhoBeDaPlaya said:
Hopefully the pinouts were easily available. Trying to find detailed pinouts for the more uncommon factory nav/THX/amp setup was like trying to find the holy grail 😛
Incidentally, in the unlikely event anyone needs any info for the LS, feel free to hit me up on PM.
Click to expand...

Or when each speaker has its own mini amp... That was a rough install!
 
At first I was like ... wow another TridenT adventure thread. Now I'm like How the fuck could anyone screw up the simplest stereo installation ever.

Now we all know.

" I can't solder the connector back on guys. I don't have enough wire to do that. I cut it super short so that I would get as much wire to use as possible."

#1 rule: Always, Always leave yourself a back door to get back to where you started.
 
It's been working nicely all day. Only downside is that if the car goes off... all the settings are lost and it acts like it is brand new. 🙁
 
MrPickins said:
You need to make this connection:



The head unit needs constant power to retain settings.
Click to expand...

Did you read what I did? I put those two wires plus the ignition+red/yellow together. ALL OF THEM in one twist cap thing. It doesn't work if I just do it the traditional way... (I mean, it doesn't even turn on)
 
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