I think my PSU just blew up!!

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Bobthelost

Diamond Member
Dec 1, 2005
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Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
so how is a PSU not compatible, like I've seen ppl say the NeoHE isn't compatible with their asus mobo or whatever? I don't get it, what is the big difference between the NeoHE series and the truepower series besides the fact that it is modular? Surely the wiring in the 24 pin connector isn't different.... 12V is 12V, 5V is 5V, 3.3V is 3.3V isn't it?

I'm not sure if there is a known technical reason for the compatability issues, could be that either the motherboards or the PSU don't fit ATX specification properly (for example the PSU won't source enough power for the motherboard to start up [note, complete shot in the dark]).

But there are lots of reports of compatability issues with the Neo HE and Asus motherboards. Antec have aknowledged the problem and have versions of the Neo HE line that are compatible that they'll swap out, although they claim that a BIOS update should fix the problem too (never heard of it working) in some cases.

Just because they both have Neo at the start doesn't mean they are anything alike inside ;)
 

Apocalypse X

Member
Jan 10, 2006
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Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
so how is a PSU not compatible, like I've seen ppl say the NeoHE isn't compatible with their asus mobo or whatever? I don't get it, what is the big difference between the NeoHE series and the truepower series besides the fact that it is modular? Surely the wiring in the 24 pin connector isn't different.... 12V is 12V, 5V is 5V, 3.3V is 3.3V isn't it?

just what as I though sparky saying he has seen postings of Fortrons going belly up when he doesn`t even understand that 12v is not 12v. Its all about the amps.
Amps vary depending on make and model.
 

socalcyclist

Member
Mar 2, 2006
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New PSU is due to be delivered by UPS later this evening. What are the chances the computer will fire right up with no problems once I swap it out?
 

SparkyJJO

Lifer
May 16, 2002
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Originally posted by: Apocalypse
Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
so how is a PSU not compatible, like I've seen ppl say the NeoHE isn't compatible with their asus mobo or whatever? I don't get it, what is the big difference between the NeoHE series and the truepower series besides the fact that it is modular? Surely the wiring in the 24 pin connector isn't different.... 12V is 12V, 5V is 5V, 3.3V is 3.3V isn't it?

just what as I though sparky saying he has seen postings of Fortrons going belly up when he doesn`t even understand that 12v is not 12v. Its all about the amps.
Amps vary depending on make and model.

O please just because I said something that you disagree on doesn't mean that I'm clueless about this stuff :roll: I've been working with computers, power supplies, and other stuff for over 6 years, I KNOW all about amps. My point is 12v is 12v (the voltage is the same, aye?), and if the amps are about the same, then why the compatibility issues?

By the way, here is my post near the bottom with PROOF of fortrons dying - I know what I'm talking about, ok? ;) I don't randomly post stuff unless I'm sure about it. Apparently YOU don't know what you are talking about.

Please, go stuff your personal attacks in the closet and keep threads on topic, ok?
 

Fullmetal Chocobo

Moderator<br>Distributed Computing
Moderator
May 13, 2003
13,704
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I'm not sure if you are referring to the same thing, but there are some incompatibilities that exist, such as with (some?) DFI mobos & Seasonic PSUs. The problem is that the DFI mobos call for a -5V line, which the Seasonics do not provide. The -5V line was removed with the new ATX spec.

EDIT for correction. It was the -5V line, not the -12V. Thanks Galvanized for reminding me.
 

SparkyJJO

Lifer
May 16, 2002
13,357
7
81
Thanks fullmetal. I didn't know they were removing that, all the PSU's I've had (including my current one) has the -12V line.
That is the kind of post we need more of - something that answers a question instead of personal attacks. This thread has had more than its share of those - Gagan, LouiSSSSS, then Apocalypse. No more please :)
 

Fullmetal Chocobo

Moderator<br>Distributed Computing
Moderator
May 13, 2003
13,704
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Sorry, I was slightly mistaken. It was the -5V, not the -12V line. (I couldn't find my PSU manual, else I would have double checked). (Thanks GY for pointing that out)
 

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
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http://www.formfactors.org/ 5th link down. Bottom of page 3. version 2.01, June 2004,
Remove -5V reference. iirc some older sound cards need the -5V. The Seasonic vs DFI issue I know nothing about.

A respected (by me) member of this board did state the -12V was soon to leave the spec
in the near future.


...Galvanized
 

socalcyclist

Member
Mar 2, 2006
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Since we're discussing -5V lines, my original Enermax 425W had a bad -5V line according to the local computer shop. But when I look at the info for the Enermax Noisetaker 425W it doesn't even list a -5V line. What am I missing here?
 

Fullmetal Chocobo

Moderator<br>Distributed Computing
Moderator
May 13, 2003
13,704
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Originally posted by: socalcyclist
Since we're discussing -5V lines, my original Enermax 425W had a bad -5V line according to the local computer shop. But when I look at the info for the Enermax Noisetaker 425W it doesn't even list a -5V line. What am I missing here?

The -5V line was removed in the ATX 2.0 (IIRC) spec. It was a line necessary for ISA cards, and some sound cards, but the spec has now been removed. Only a few issues have been reported with this, and mostly pertain to specific (NF4 I believe) DFI mobos...
 

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
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Originally posted by: socalcyclist
Since we're discussing -5V lines, my original Enermax 425W had a bad -5V line according to the local computer shop. But when I look at the info for the Enermax Noisetaker 425W it doesn't even list a -5V line. What am I missing here?

What are you missing??? NOT clicking on the formfactors link I posted and reading it.
There will be a quiz on this before your next PSU purchase. So do your homework. ;)


...Galvanized
 

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
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OP, I was not trying to be rude with the above post.

Your question about if you should do anything before installing the new PSU.
I would clear the CMOS by using the jumper. It's detailed in your motherboard manual.
It can also be cleared by removing the battery for awhile, atleast 15 minuets to be sure.
Some go as far as leaving it out over night.


...Galvanized

 

socalcyclist

Member
Mar 2, 2006
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Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
OP, I was not trying to be rude with the above post.

Your question about if you should do anything before installing the new PSU.
I would clear the CMOS by using the jumper. It's detailed in your motherboard manual.
It can also be cleared by removing the battery for awhile, atleast 15 minuets to be sure.
Some go as far as leaving it out over night.


...Galvanized

No problem, I didn't take is a being rude. A little smug perhaps but that's cool. :) I did click the link but that's written in a language I don't understand and would take me hours to translate.

Why do you recommend clearing the CMOS? What will that do exactly?

 

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
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Your PSU blow-up could have corrupted the BIOS. So just boot with default BIOS settings.

Then once your up & running, set the BIOS as you like. If you've never gone into the BIOS to change settings and are not familiare with doing it, still clear the CMOS.
Read your manual or get it in pdf form on line.

...Galvanized
 

socalcyclist

Member
Mar 2, 2006
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Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
Your PSU blow-up could have corrupted the BIOS. So just boot with default BIOS settings.

Then once your up & running, set the BIOS as you like. If you've never gone into the BIOS to change settings and are not familiare with doing it, still clear the CMOS.
Read your manual or get it in pdf form on line.

...Galvanized


Manual just states moving the jumper from pin 1,2 to 2,3 clears the CMOS. Do I reboot with it in the 2,3 position? It isn't clear on that.
 

GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
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It's cleared with the comp off. The jumper is then reinstalled where it was, then the rig is booted.

...Galvanized
 

LOUISSSSS

Diamond Member
Dec 5, 2005
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u can do the jumper but i recommend taking out the battery for a few hours
then trying again for safety
 

erikistired

Diamond Member
Sep 27, 2000
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Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
u can do the jumper but i recommend taking out the battery for a few hours
then trying again for safety

how exactly is that safer? 5 seconds with the jumper in the 2-3 position has yet to fail me for resetting a bios.
 

socalcyclist

Member
Mar 2, 2006
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GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS!! (mostly good, though, I think)


UPS delivered the PSU and they managed not to step on it too much cause it worked. Pulled out the old one, installed the new one with and wala everything came to life again. :) :) :) :)

Bad news: It loaded up to Windows XP log on screen asking for a password for user "Owner". Well I've never seen this screen before and have no idea what my password was cuz the computer shop installed windows for me. Anyway, the computer sat idle for awhile, went into sleep mode and shut itself off cause that's what I had the "power options" set for before all this started. So I pushed the power on button again and no screen this time - waited and waited, pushed buttons, moved mouse but the screen will not come on. I thought "oh shiite" the screen won't come on. Well, clicking the power button a couple more times starts it up again with the screen this time and it went straight into Windows XP logged in as "owner" without asking for a password. All "appears" OK now. It's just that was a hokey startup sequence I had to go through there. Not sure what all that was about.

I dunno, I guess everything is kosher. I'm running memtest now and will let that run for awhile.

Feel free to chime in with any comments. I'm just so happy everything appears to be ok. :)
 

Madwand1

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2006
3,309
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76
Originally posted by: fisher

how exactly is that safer? 5 seconds with the jumper in the 2-3 position has yet to fail me for resetting a bios.

5 seconds? Maybe my electricity is faster than yours. Momentary's worked fine for me.

But my Asus manual says take out the battery, do the reset, dance a little jig, cross your fingers, and then put them back. I just end up resetting too often to do that, and my legs get tired.
 

Madwand1

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2006
3,309
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76
Originally posted by: socalcyclist
wala everything came to life again.

Is that French?

Not sure what all that was about.

I'd check the event logs, and drop into user management and review the user accounts and set / clear passwords and write them down somewhere, and write down where I wrote them down somewhere else, etc.

I don't have any other suggestions (other than a full restoration / backup + reinstallation and continued stability tests, but that's probably overkill). Grats on your recovery.
 

Apocalypse X

Member
Jan 10, 2006
90
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Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Originally posted by: Apocalypse
Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
so how is a PSU not compatible, like I've seen ppl say the NeoHE isn't compatible with their asus mobo or whatever? I don't get it, what is the big difference between the NeoHE series and the truepower series besides the fact that it is modular? Surely the wiring in the 24 pin connector isn't different.... 12V is 12V, 5V is 5V, 3.3V is 3.3V isn't it?

just what as I though sparky saying he has seen postings of Fortrons going belly up when he doesn`t even understand that 12v is not 12v. Its all about the amps.
Amps vary depending on make and model.

O please just because I said something that you disagree on doesn't mean that I'm clueless about this stuff :roll: I've been working with computers, power supplies, and other stuff for over 6 years, I KNOW all about amps. My point is 12v is 12v (the voltage is the same, aye?), and if the amps are about the same, then why the compatibility issues?

By the way, here is my post near the bottom with PROOF of fortrons dying - I know what I'm talking about, ok? ;) I don't randomly post stuff unless I'm sure about it. Apparently YOU don't know what you are talking about.

Please, go stuff your personal attacks in the closet and keep threads on topic, ok?
ok Sparky lets llok at this more clearly--- first of all youv`e been wortking on computers for 6yrs?
You would think thats 6yrs would indicate that you learned something concerning PSU`s.

Yet you say 12v is 12v the voltage is all the same not true....its all about amps. say you have 12v rail with 16 amps verses a 12v rail with 22 amps...thats a huge difference and also lends itself to the quality issue.

There are many reasons for compatability issue. But suffice it to say alot of compatability issues that come up are solved by a simple bios update.

Also those things you call proof are nothing more than statments made by buyers. Also 5these statements are NOT checked for truthfulness or factual statememts. NewEGG has in no way authenticates whether these are true or just over blown non factual statements....

Have a nice day!


here is one
Not the PSU itself dying but that fan sure sounds bad
DOA a few times, died after 6 months on page 3
Another fails
And yet another
Dead quiet, because it IS dead

That enough?