Got my E7200 up to 3.6GHz using 1.216v without tweaking anything else yet. The 9.5x multiplier makes things very easy. Temps barely went up compared to 3.0GHz, but my CPU fan is spinning 125RPM faster at idle. I guess I'm going to have to go for 3.8GHz now.
error8
Diamond Member
- Nov 28, 2007
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Originally posted by: Serradifalco
Originally posted by: jaredpace
55C is nothing to worry about. here is about ~80C (Coretemp) on my E8400:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ja...to#5161909657873254338
80C coretemp is about equal to 70C Realtemp, although I took as high as 92C coretemp. Your E7200 at 40C distance to TJmax still has plenty of headroom temp wise. IMO, you may end up in the high 70sC after you reach an approximate ~1.4 Vcore (regardless of your mhz & if you're willing to let it get that hot).
Gotcha!
***UPDATE***
I am now stable at 3.8Ghz! It requires 1.2375v in the bios. Not too shabby... if I may say so. I am done oc'ing it for now. I will resume when I get a new case. I think I have found the sweet spot between performance and voltage.
This is an exciting chip and I feel it is worth every penny. The thrill factor is amazing. FYI... at first I could not get 3.8Ghz stable at even 1.2625v. I then bumped the voltage on my ram by .2 and voila I was able to lower the cpu voltage to 1.2375 and still achieve stability.
I keep it stable at 3,8 ghz with 1,35 V in bios and you have it at 1,2375 V. Such a big difference between two identical chips.
- May 27, 2007
- 363
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Originally posted by: error8
Originally posted by: Serradifalco
Originally posted by: jaredpace
55C is nothing to worry about. here is about ~80C (Coretemp) on my E8400:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ja...to#5161909657873254338
80C coretemp is about equal to 70C Realtemp, although I took as high as 92C coretemp. Your E7200 at 40C distance to TJmax still has plenty of headroom temp wise. IMO, you may end up in the high 70sC after you reach an approximate ~1.4 Vcore (regardless of your mhz & if you're willing to let it get that hot
Gotcha!
***UPDATE***
I am now stable at 3.8Ghz! It requires 1.2375v in the bios. Not too shabby... if I may say so. I am done oc'ing it for now. I will resume when I get a new case. I think I have found the sweet spot between performance and voltage.
This is an exciting chip and I feel it is worth every penny. The thrill factor is amazing. FYI... at first I could not get 3.8Ghz stable at even 1.2625v. I then bumped the voltage on my ram by .2 and voila I was able to lower the cpu voltage to 1.2375 and still achieve stability.
I keep it stable at 3,8 ghz with 1,35 V in bios and you have it at 1,2375 V. Such a big difference between two identical chips.
I couldn't get stable until I bumped my ram by .2v... so from 1.8v to 2.0v. I was not even stable at 1.250v. As soon as I bumped my ram voltage I became stable at 1.2500 and finally at 1.2375v. I think every board is different so you have to play with different settings to get optimal results. I know my board has been a good oc'er from the start. I will always buy Gigabyte boards after this one. They make a high quality, easy to use product.
My EP35-DS3R seems to have quite a bit of vdroop when cold booting. I am fully stable in Windows at about 1.25v, but to get the board to boot I have to use 1.325v, otherwise it reverts back to stock FSB. Any DS3R owners here have this happen before?
Here's a screenshot of my OC so far:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/4126/36ghzkp0.jpg
RallyMaster
Diamond Member
- Dec 28, 2004
- 5,581
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Man, the overclocking lately has gotten insane. 1GHz overclock on air? A couple years ago, that was barely doable on liquid nitrogen let alone water...
safe temps are the rated Tcase from intel's white papers. on the e8400's i think its 73.2 C. so when you're priming for 10 hours or more, you really dont want it saying 74C or higher. Here is where you can choose realtemp or coretemp.
Heh, and expectations have risen too...
I was slightly disappointed when my E2180 didn't make it to my original 3.4ghz target (with acceptable vcore that is), and I'll probably feel the same way again if I can't get at least 3.8 out of my soon to be purchased E7200 :laugh:
i never said they were
Myocardia: this article seems to consider Tcase extremely important and relevant to maximum operating temparture, as many others will agree. good advice is: if you want to stay safe, stay around 65 (depending on chip & temp reporting software) if you're feeling lucky, 70's, and if you dont care, push it how high you'd like.
So, in order to understand which value is important in a CPU, you have to understand a few variables that are set by Intel.
TcaseMax (TcMax)- This value stands for the maximum temperature measured at the geometric center on the topside of the processor IHS (see picture below)
--- It is termed as "Thermal specification" in Intel's CPU spec sheet
--- It is NOT indicated by the on-die thermal sensor on the die
--- The temperature is designated as Tc
TjunctionMax - This value stands for the maximum temperature at the junction between the processor die and the PCB it sits on, this is usually much higher than the TCaseMax value.
--- It is the temperature of a CPU when throttling occurs
--- Throttling reduces the speed/frequency ? or both the speed/frequency and voltage (TM2) of the CPU
--- As such, when throttling is activated, the CPU temperature should come down......
--- Important : As such, it is important to enable the "CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2)" in BIOS if you are overclocking, just in case something happens and you forgot to look at the CPu temperature. It is a CPU overheating protection function.
Intel's definition of "thermal specification" - The thermal specification shown is the maximum case temperature at the maximum Thermal Design Power (TDP) value for that processor.
(Lowyat V2)
Note : Alternatively, you can use realtemp, which shows you the "Distance to TJMax" which has the same functions.
--------- 5) Is there such a thing as safe/optimum temperature? ----------
Note : If you're not an overclocker, then this question is not really important.
Most people will ask "What is a safe temperature to run my overclocked CPU?"
Well, there is actually no straight forward answer to this.
The "answer" depends on various factors such as:
1) Type of CPU
2) Maximum temperature
3) Duration of high temperature @ How you run your rig/CPU e.g. a few hours a day @ never switched off.....
Type of CPU
This is obvious as different CPU would have different thermal specification.
For example, take a Q6600's thermal specification (TcaseMax):
Q6600 B3 stepping: 62.2'c
Q6600 GO stepping: 71'c
Obviously, if both processors were running at a TcaseMax of 60'c, definitely the B3 will be the more "tortured" of the two CPUs!
And I guess it would be also true for mobile & server CPUs which are more reliable and can take higher temperatures....
Maximum temperature
Unfortunately, there is no absolute value for a safe temperature.
--- some would recommend 60-65'c
--- some would say 50-55'c
--- and some would run their procs at 70'c without any short-term problems
Just remember this : Heat is the number one enemy for your overclocked CPU (voltages comes in 2nd.....)
The higher the core temperature:
- the higher the risk of damage
- the shorter the life expectancy
Note : Remember that the lifespan of a CPU can be very long..... usually >10 years? >50 years?
In general, for current Intel processors, the recommendation is around 60-65'c
Very good in-depth explanation here :
The truth about processor degradation (Anandtech)
Overclocking's impact of CPU's life - by Joe Citarella
Duration of high temperature
Running your CPU at a high temperature for a few hours would definitely be better than running it 24/7
------------------ 6) How to reduce my CPU temperature? -------------------
Can be divided into different components:
1) Casing
2) Cooling (e.g. air, water, more extreme)
3) Air cooling - the fan setup
4) Thermal paste
5) CPU
6) Ambient temperature
7) Power saving methods
8) Overclocking/overvolting
Casing
> Have a good airflow in your casing
--- there are many guides on how to do this, which includes cable management, strategic placements of intake and outlet fans, no dust build-up in the casing or on the heatsink
> Open your side casing panel
--- also be wary of dust buildup with this setup
> Alternatively, you can run naked (no, not you la.... your computer... tongue.gif)
--- if you run your rig without a casing, there won't be any heat build-up that normally occurs in a closed-case system
--- be wary of dust buildup with this setup
Cooling
> Don't use stock CPU Heatsink fan (HSF)
--- use a good 3rd party coolers (e.g. air-cooling, water-cooling or more extreme)
> Ensure your HSF is seated properly
--- sometimes, your HSF is not in proper contact with the CPU (this can happen if you use push-pins to secure your HSF to your CPU)
--- if you have a 3rd party HSF that has push-pins and also screw kit, use the screw kit, as it ensures better contact
Air cooling - the fan setup
Single fan - for maximum cooling, you can:
- Set the CPU fan speed to run at maximum.
- Change to a more powerful fan (usually measured in "cfm", the higher the cfm, the better it is)
- Use a larger size fan e.g. from 8cm to 12cm
Multiple fans - for certain HSF, you can actually put 2 fans, or even 3 fans.
- one fan to blow on the HSF, one fan to suck out the air from the HSF
Thermal paste
Don't use the normal thermal paste that comes with the stock HSF (they are good but not as good as well-known ones)
Use good thermal paste e.g. Arctic Cooling MX-1 or MX-2, Tuniq TX-2
Currently, the best is Shin-Etsu, which is unfortunately not available here
CPU
> Lap your CPU or HSF
--- this will increase the surface contact between the CPU and HSF
--- lapping the CPU will void the CPU warranty..... sweat.gif
> Remove the IHS - not for the average users, more for extreme overclockers (as removing the IHS will void the warranty)
--- By removing the IHS, the CPU heatsink and come in direct contact with the CPU die/chip. This will cause a significant drop in core temperature....
Ambient temperature
Note : Ambient temperature means the general temperature at your location e.g. room, office, etc....
Lower your ambient temperature e.g. in air-con room
Power saving methods
Activate power management functions
--- for Intel CPUs, enable C1E and EIST function in BIOS
--- for AMD CPUs, enable Cool&Quiet function in BIOS
Overclocking/overvolting
As you know, the higher you overclock/overvolt, the more the heat is generated. Hence, the higher the CPU temperature.
Lower overvolting
--- remember the phrase "The point of diminishing returns"
--- This means that when you overclock and overvolt your CPU, there comes a point where you need to increase your vcore by a huge amount but only gain a few mhz in the process
--- for example, this is the results of an overclocked Q6600
----- vcore ----- overclocked speed
----- 1.30v ----- 3.0 Ghz
----- 1.35v ----- 3.3 Ghz
----- 1.40v ----- 3.4 Ghz
----- 1.45v ----- 3.43 Ghz
----- 1.50v ----- 3.44 Ghz
--- if you look at the example above, the point of diminishing return is around 1.40-1.45v, where increasing your vcore from 1.40v to 1.45v only gain you 30mhz (3.43Ghz - 3.40Ghz = 30mhz). In addition, increasing from 1.45v to 1.50v only gain you 10mhz (3.44Ghz - 3.43Ghz = 10mhz)
--- So, instead of running 1.50v at 3.44Ghz, you could run your CPU at 1.40v at 3.4Ghz, which would help to reduce your core temperature by a significant amount.....
this is a really great article. I've copied most of the relevant info for this topic into my post.
source:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/666785/+0#entry16560973
3.8Ghz Stable (More than 8 minutes...)
1.304V load
http://i73.photobucket.com/alb...22/38001304Vstable.jpg
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=366413
My Thread: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=558372
1.304V load
http://i73.photobucket.com/alb...22/38001304Vstable.jpg
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=366413
My Thread: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=558372
Well that encouraged me to try a higher OC, Hazaro. Here's 3.8GHz @ 1.28v
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4007/38ghzlb8.jpg
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=366524
Only problem is every time I cold boot, the motherboard (EP35-DS3R, F2 BIOS) reverts back to stock settings. You'd think that was because it is unstable, but it's 100% stable in Windows; I played Stalker and GRAW2, ran Prime95, Orthos, ATITool, etc., no crashes, no BSODs. I tried higher vcore but it still resets on a cold boot. If I OC to 3.4GHz then reboot, set it for 3.6 or 3.8 it works until the next cold boot. I guess I can't shut off my PC ever again. There's got to be some way to fix this.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4007/38ghzlb8.jpg
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=366524
Only problem is every time I cold boot, the motherboard (EP35-DS3R, F2 BIOS) reverts back to stock settings. You'd think that was because it is unstable, but it's 100% stable in Windows; I played Stalker and GRAW2, ran Prime95, Orthos, ATITool, etc., no crashes, no BSODs. I tried higher vcore but it still resets on a cold boot. If I OC to 3.4GHz then reboot, set it for 3.6 or 3.8 it works until the next cold boot. I guess I can't shut off my PC ever again. There's got to be some way to fix this.
Nice!
Not sure about your boot problem though.
Next stop is 4Ghz, then 1.35V max stable, then well... 4.5GHz
Not sure about your boot problem though.
Next stop is 4Ghz, then 1.35V max stable, then well... 4.5GHz
Not really. I have been doing it for years....
My intel Northwood P4 1.6a (stock 1.6ghz) did 2.72ghz on air....My 2.4b (stock 2.4ghz) did 3.36ghz...and my 2.4c (stock 2.4ghz) did 3.5ghz...
Those were all in the 2002-2004 years
Then in 2006 when I got my first conroe E6600(stock 2.4ghz) it did 3.4ghz.....I bought an E6300 (stock 1.86ghz) and it did 3.4ghz-3.46ghz....My cheapo Gigabyte S3 mobo was able to do near 500fsb. My E6400 (stock 2.13ghz) did 3.4ghz as well....
These were in between 2006-2007....
The only part was in between 2004-2006 when I had Athlon 64's and X2's which got close to 1ghz OC on air but not quite....more in the 800-900mhz range
error8
Diamond Member
- Nov 28, 2007
- 3,204
- 0
- 76
Originally posted by: Hazaro
Originally posted by: error8
Originally posted by: Hazaro
Nice!
Not sure about your boot problem though.
Next stop is 4Ghz, then 1.35V max stable, then well... 4.5GHz
And then a fire in the PC case
My Case is so big the fire will die out before it goes anywhere
Damn, thats a big case indeed
. I like the way you have your cpu cooler installed. That's hardcore!Originally posted by: Hazaro
Originally posted by: error8
Originally posted by: Hazaro
Nice!
Not sure about your boot problem though.
Next stop is 4Ghz, then 1.35V max stable, then well... 4.5GHz
And then a fire in the PC case
My Case is so big the fire will die out before it goes anywhere
What is the name of that case?
- May 27, 2007
- 363
- 0
- 0
***Update***
Ok so I am obviously good at 3.8Ghz at a mere 1.2375v in bios and 1.2000v in cpuz. I have hit a 400Mhz fsb wall. I attribute it to my ram after trying several different settings and combos. Here are my current ram and cpu settings. The ram doesn't seem to oc well. I have the voltage at the prescribed 2.0v.
Can I get a better oc with PC2-8500 1066 ram? I know my mb is capable of a 500Mhz + fsb.
Ok so I am obviously good at 3.8Ghz at a mere 1.2375v in bios and 1.2000v in cpuz. I have hit a 400Mhz fsb wall. I attribute it to my ram after trying several different settings and combos. Here are my current ram and cpu settings. The ram doesn't seem to oc well. I have the voltage at the prescribed 2.0v.
Can I get a better oc with PC2-8500 1066 ram? I know my mb is capable of a 500Mhz + fsb.
yah, or just time your CL4 ram at 5 5 5 15 and run it at 445mhz for a cpu speed of 4000mhz
probably going to require 1.35 Vcore and 2.1 Vdimm
oops: 9.5x multi, so 445mhz = 4220mhz Cpu speed. You really just need 422mhz x 9.5 for 4000mhz
error8
Diamond Member
- Nov 28, 2007
- 3,204
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It's not the ram, it's your Vcore. I keep mine stable, like I said above, at 3,8 ghz with 1,36v in bios and 1,32 V in full load in cpu-z. You have to up that voltage sometime, it's not going to give you 4 ghz on just 1,2 V man. You have a good chip, but not that good.
Also, any ddr2 at 800mhz can do 820-850 mhz at least, by just a small voltage increase and loose timings, even the cheapest PQI or Kingmax modules.
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