I failed in unlocking my AthlonXP!

[WinkOsmosis]

I tried the thermal grease and conductive ink... and I can only set the multiplier from 11-12.5 . It is amazingly difficult compared to the old pencil trick.. how do the people who write those guides get it so perfect? I had an idea though... would it work to fill the gap with white out and use a pencil?

 

[Megatomic]

1) Is that really your girlfriend (the link in your sig)???

2) Which AthlonXP were you unlocking?

3) I don't think you'll be able to use a pencil to unlock the AthlonXP or more people would be doing it.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: SeekingTao
1) Is that really your girlfriend (the link in your sig)???

2) Which AthlonXP were you unlocking?

3) I don't think you'll be able to use a pencil to unlock the AthlonXP or more people would be doing it.

1)
2) XP 1900+
3) Damn! Is there anything better than a conductive pen with goopy ink?

 

[Megatomic]

Originally posted by: Jellomancer

1)
2) XP 1900+
3) Damn! Is there anything better than a conductive pen with goopy ink?

1) :Q
2) Damn! I was planning to unlock the very same CPU this coming week.
3) Rear window defogger repair kit is what most peeps are using. It is what I am planning on using myself.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

With the defogger kit.. do you use the pen or whatever to do it directly or do you use a pin or something?

 

[Megatomic]

Use a pin, you can get a finer line with it.

My plan is to tape off each multiplier bridge set with a small strip of Scotch tape. I have tweezers and a lighted handheld magnifying glass to do this with. Then I intend to fill the holes with superglue. After the glue has sat for about 30 minutes, I will apply a generous dose of the defogger liquid over each pair. When that has sat for about an hour (I swear I will be patient!! ) I will then remove the little strips of Scotch tape. Then I will cover the area with a small section of 3M Super 33+ electrical tape to protect my work.

I am hoping to get the full range of multipliers from doing this.

 

[Megatomic]

Oh and I think that with suitable cooling your CPU should be able to run at 166MHz FSB with a multiplier of 11. That is 1.826GHz and that is what I am hoping to run my own CPU at after I unlock it. Have you tried this by any chance?

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: SeekingTao
Oh and I think that with suitable cooling your CPU should be able to run at 166MHz FSB with a multiplier of 11. That is 1.826GHz and that is what I am hoping to run my own CPU at after I unlock it. Have you tried this by any chance?

I tried setting it to 166x9.5 but not 11. I am not sure if I have sufficient cooling. I'm using an Alpha 8045 but with a Panaflo M1a. I'll go try it now.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Didn't work at 166x11. Computer rebooted while Windows was trying to boot.

 

[Megatomic]

Dangit. What stepping is your CPU? If I remember correctly mine is AGOGA.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: SeekingTao
Dangit. What stepping is your CPU? If I remember correctly mine is AGOGA.

I forgot to check. I got it last March though.

 

[Megatomic]

Mine is about the same age I think. When I get my HHC-001 and my new PC2700 next week I'll be pulling my stuff apart for my overclock. Expect a thread with my experiences. Hopefully you will be able to contribute dude.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

I scratched off the conductive ink between the bridges with an Xacto knife.. so I'm thinking that I will have to fill those in with some hard substance so I can scrape out whatever other substance I use, like conductiev paint.

 

[Megatomic]

That's why I'm going to use superglue. That stuff sets up like a rock when it dries and it doesn't shrink either. It should provide a nice solid surface for my defogger stuff. I'm thinking I might "buff" the superglue so that it is nice and flat with regards to the rest of the CPU substrate. This way the defogger stuff will go on smoothly and not have little air pockets under it.

I've been planning this for a week or so now, I hope my plan is solid. I can't find any problems with it.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: SeekingTao
That's why I'm going to use superglue. That stuff sets up like a rock when it dries and it doesn't shrink either. It should provide a nice solid surface for my defogger stuff. I'm thinking I might "buff" the superglue so that it is nice and flat with regards to the rest of the CPU substrate. This way the defogger stuff will go on smoothly and not have little air pockets under it.

I've been planning this for a week or so now, I hope my plan is solid. I can't find any problems with it.

Are you sure you can cut 1mm strips of tape?

 

[Megatomic]

I can sure try. That's all I can do. If not, I have a backup plan. I will use the same tape, but instead of cutting micro strips and placing them between the bridges I will use bigger pieces and cover all the bridge sets excepting the one I am working on at that time. When one bridge is done, I will uncover it and move on to the next bridge set. This will take all day but I want to do the BEST job I can and get the BEST results possible. When I'm done I hope to have a fully functional 166MHz FSB Palimino that runs at 1.826GHz at 40C loaded with Prime95 running. I don't want to have any misgivings about my work. And I don't want to ruin a perfectly good CPU.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: SeekingTao
I can sure try. That's all I can do. If not, I have a backup plan. I will use the same tape, but instead of cutting micro strips and placing them between the bridges I will use bigger pieces and cover all the bridge sets excepting the one I am working on at that time. When one bridge is done, I will uncover it and move on to the next bridge set. This will take all day but I want to do the BEST job I can and get the BEST results possible. When I'm done I hope to have a fully functional 166MHz FSB Palimino that runs at 1.826GHz at 40C loaded with Prime95 running. I don't want to have any misgivings about my work. And I don't want to ruin a perfectly good CPU.

That's what I should have done.

 

[Kraid2xd]

If all else fails, do the 5-sec mod on the back of your mobo. Easy, cheap, completely reversible, and WAY safer than messing with the cpu. Just make sure you don't short out the wrong pins...

linky:
5 sec. mod

 

[IdahoB]

How to unlock the XP multipler

 

[Haden]

Originally posted by: Kraid2xd
If all else fails, do the 5-sec mod on the back of your mobo. Easy, cheap, completely reversible, and WAY safer than messing with the cpu. Just make sure you don't short out the wrong pins...

linky:
5 sec. mod

Seems very simple, but I didn't understood - this would/should unlock all multipliers for older XP (like 1500+) or just lower ones?

 

[Jeff7]

I went partially by the guide here; got 2 XP's unlocked just fine now using that method. You don't need to cut the tape to 1mm or anything crazy like that. Just put it on either side of the bridges, so that the actual metal is covered - press it down good so that the superglue doesn't cover the bridges at all, just the gap in between. I remove the tape then when the glue is mostly dry, but still a little gelly. Once it solidified completely (about 5-10 min for the glue I had), I used a conductive pen to connect the bridges.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

Originally posted by: Kraid2xd
If all else fails, do the 5-sec mod on the back of your mobo. Easy, cheap, completely reversible, and WAY safer than messing with the cpu. Just make sure you don't short out the wrong pins...

linky:
5 sec. mod

Wow.. why don't more people do this one?

Edit: Just noticed that it doesn't work with Palominos.

 

[WinkOsmosis]

I'm working on unlocking it again, this time leaving the tape on longer while the ink hardens. My CPU is an AGOGA 0150MPM 41F30980233. The top inscription is AX1900DMT3C.

(I'm posting from my Cassiopeia )

 

[WinkOsmosis]

I failed again! I had an idea though. I'm gong to paint around the bridges with liquid paper, then try to get the ink to fill the spaces between the whiteout.

Editt: Nevermind.. I don't have a paintbrush that small.

 

[IdahoB]

Do you have a circuit tester? I know it's tricky because of the size, but you can use tape to stick a pin to each point of the circuit tester, which gives you a small enough point to test each bridge with, as well as test each bridge with all the others to make sure you haven't made a short circuit. Essential for this kind of work so you don't have to keep re-assembling the CPU/Heatsink in order to test it. Keep at it, it's not that hard really. And you really ought to use superglue and proper conductive ink.