I failed at replacing transmission fluid. What is this going to cost me?

[Bartman39]

I'd think you could put in a rubber expansion plug, at least temporarily. Boat shop is one place to find something like that...made to fit livewells, drain holes, etc., in boats.

Something like these:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...gs"|~ ~|categoryl3:"610667 Expansion Plugs"|~

They're neoprene and they do come in various diameters.

I would opt for this type of repair since any drilling and or tapping could result in shavings getting into the system... A rubber expansion plug like this will work but be sure it is for oil NOT water as the compound makes a difference (water type will swell and split with oil contact)... You can also check with a local parts house or even a hardware store but just be sure of the type of material its designed to work with...

 

[sontakke]

It does not help you but doesn't everybody first removes the filler plug or oil cap *before* removing the drain bolt? That is just a good practice.

One should be able to do some hacking with jbweld or thread repair kit. The oil there is not going to be under pressure, so there is much less chance of leaking from the repairs.

 

[DaTT]

Serious question, when did they start putting drain plugs in automatic transmissions? I have always used the "drop the pan" method.

 

[NutBucket]

Uh, that's been common for many years now. But its certainly not universal AFAIK.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

It does not help you but doesn't everybody first removes the filler plug or oil cap *before* removing the drain bolt? That is just a good practice.

One should be able to do some hacking with jbweld or thread repair kit. The oil there is not going to be under pressure, so there is much less chance of leaking from the repairs.

So much +1 to this. It's amazing how few online guides seem to mention this. Always always always remove the fill plug first. Use a little heat on it before stripping the connector.

And as others said, I would buy an expanding plug before replacing the case. I might even epoxy it in if you know it can be filled via the dipstick.


Drilling and tapping a cast trans case is not something I would risk unless it's an absolute last resort.

 

[LTC8K6]

If there are enough threads left in the hole, you might be able to put a pipe plug in there with thread sealer. Find one that has the same thread with a hex key type head on it.

Sorta' like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TWP2SQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

 

[DominionSeraph]

Never mind.

VV, yeah, I wasn't expecting to see a hole at that angle so I interpreted the depth/perspective completely wrong. Now I see he broke the neck.

 

[LTC8K6]

It looks like he broke #12.

He broke what is just below #12. The "neck" on the case. What the bolt and washer seal on.

 

[sontakke]

That picture is not very clear. I am not sure what "neck" you guys are talking about. Was neck protruding out from the case? Why would a manufacturer come up with such complicated casting? Unless 3 foot cheater pipe at the end of the breaker bar was used, it is almost impossible to break off the part of the casting. Only if there were a manufacturing defect in the transmission case, it would be possible to create this situation with no cheater pipe. Ironically, a big impact gun would have removed the bolt easily.

 

[LTC8K6]

He broke the raised round threaded part of the transmission case that the bolt screws in to. He broke the transmission case. The "nut", if you will...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/...onda Pilot EX 4WD/ATFFillBolt_zpsa0baf1f2.jpg

The part the bolt threads in to.

 

[natto fire]

Serious question, when did they start putting drain plugs in automatic transmissions? I have always used the "drop the pan" method.

Do yourself a favor and stay away from Honda auto trannys, they don't even have pans.
As for others, it is hit or miss whether they have a drain plug. I have come across quite a few older ZF units in Volvos, Jeeps, and Toyotas, which have them. Panning is part of the proper maintenance regardless (gotta clean that magnet!), but it is much easier to drain the fluid from a hole than spilling a bunch while dealing with dropping the pan.

OP: I would go with the tapered plug method suggested above.

 

[bryanl]

Serious question, when did they start putting drain plugs in automatic transmissions? I have always used the "drop the pan" method.

When did they stop putting in drain plugs, in the 1960s? Japanese cars still have them. They're very convenient for minimizing spillage when dropping the pan.

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

He broke the raised round threaded part of the transmission case that the bolt screws in to. He broke the transmission case. The "nut", if you will...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/...onda Pilot EX 4WD/ATFFillBolt_zpsa0baf1f2.jpg

The part the bolt threads in to.

Yes, it's the neck, nut, whatever its called. I'm going to call a few places tomorrow and see what can be done. Thanks for all advice so far. I really appreciate it.

 

[sontakke]

Can you post the picture showing the breakage? I am not honestly not getting it from the picture unless it is just sample picture.

You will probably not believe me but you might even be able to duct tape it back because the oil there will not be under pressure. Seriously look in to re-threading/epoxying it shut. On many Hondas, that hole is used for some post purchase aka TSB use i.e. even the Honda dealers can NOT use that place to fill in the transmission as oil jet passage is put there. I do not see any downside to shutting down the whole area. Your aim is to make sure that the repair is leak-proof to transmission oil. Use appropriate chemical or mechanical means to achieve it. Replacing the case means replacing the transmission itself. You are talking about multiple thousand dollars. Unless you have money tree growing in the backyard, don't go there.

And yes, try to differentiate between a screw and a bolt Seriously, even though I can't give you the exact definition of each, I know it when I see it.

 

[LTC8K6]

Can you post the picture showing the breakage? I am not honestly not getting it from the picture unless it is just sample picture.

You will probably not believe me but you might even be able to duct tape it back because the oil there will not be under pressure. Seriously look in to re-threading/epoxying it shut. On many Hondas, that hole is used for some post purchase aka TSB use i.e. even the Honda dealers can NOT use that place to fill in the transmission as oil jet passage is put there. I do not see any downside to shutting down the whole area. Your aim is to make sure that the repair is leak-proof to transmission oil. Use appropriate chemical or mechanical means to achieve it. Replacing the case means replacing the transmission itself. You are talking about multiple thousand dollars. Unless you have money tree growing in the backyard, don't go there.

And yes, try to differentiate between a screw and a bolt Seriously, even though I can't give you the exact definition of each, I know it when I see it.

It's pretty simple. He broke the transmission case while removing the ATF fill plug. He posted a pic of the damage already. I posted a pic of the plug in place to show the part that he broke under the plug.

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

I'll try to post pics of the broken pieces when I have time today. I was finally able to recover the broken pieces (2 pieces).

 

[JCH13]

Yes, it's the neck, nut, whatever its called. I'm going to call a few places tomorrow and see what can be done. Thanks for all advice so far. I really appreciate it.

It's called a boss. ^_^

Pretty good advice thus far.

If it were me I would want to replace the housing or otherwise repair the damage. Drill/tapping isn't too scary, it helps to use grease on the drill/tap to catch metal chips.

I have had really bad experiences with expanding rubber plugs, but YMMV.

Good luck.

 

[LTC8K6]

It's called a boss. ^_^

Pretty good advice thus far.

If it were me I would want to replace the housing or otherwise repair the damage. Drill/tapping isn't too scary, it helps to use grease on the drill/tap to catch metal chips.

I have had really bad experiences with expanding rubber plugs, but YMMV.

Good luck.

I think it's a boss until you machine it into a threaded hole.

 

[halik]

Should be able to drill enough for a tap and extract the plug without drilling completely through the plug. Then replace it with a new one. Hours work tops.

I'm thinking this, get a real short bolt and tap the hole. You might be able to do it with the trans still in.

 

[LTC8K6]

I'm thinking this, get a real short bolt and tap the hole. You might be able to do it with the trans still in.

I don't think there is anything stuck in the hole, though.

The hole is what broke. :biggrin:

 

[halik]

I don't think there is anything stuck in the hole, though.

The hole is what broke. :biggrin:

Right, but there's still an opening - he just busted off the neck. All you need is half of cm of threads on the opening to screw somethign in.

 

[LTC8K6]

Right, but there's still an opening - he just busted off the neck. All you need is half of cm of threads on the opening to screw somethign in.

Yeah, it's just a question of how much of the threads are left.

I suggested one of these, with the right thread of course, and some removable thread locker.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...Q?tag=at055-20

 

[skyking]

Clean it up, and either use an expansion type plug or some other fix. It is totally not worth replacing the casting.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

self tapping bolt?

 

[slag]

I'd clean the area with brake cleaner and then thread the bolt in as best as I can. Then mix some JB weld and coat the rest of the threads to form a new fitting and recreate the boss. Never plan on removing that bolt again, but it should hold up well and last the life of the car.