I am in need of a sub

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vi edit

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
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PE has some excellent drivers. The RS is a hell of a speaker for $150. But their electronics (amps) are a bit suspect (ground loop hum) and boxes are not that great for the money. The cases in particular are far overpriced and under braced. It's the bracing that is key in the boxes. Deadening resonance and making it solid to eliminate some of the "muddy" sound that others describe. The driver itself is very low distortion. But a cheap and poorly constructed box can make it sound like crap.
 
Anubis

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
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tbqhwy.com
looking at them from what little i know about building sub boxes i agree, i just have no idea how to build a proper one, unless it comes with instructions for idiots like the TH one linked above

any issue with laying that on its side?
 
vi edit

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
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Check this out:
http://zaphaudio.com/archives-20.zip

That's a link to the zip file of cut plans and images from a guy who does a lot of cabinet modeling and speaker building. I used it as a reference for my build of my Dayton RS 12" build. It's over 60 pounds of subwoofer and almost entirely "dead" as far as resonance goes. Sounds great and was pretty easy to put together.
 
Kaido

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
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vi edit said:
The one I linked has a bit more tuning/EQ'ing function to it.

And no, not ported. Sealed. One I like it better for music. Two it's much easier to build. Three, less chance of bottoming out your sub and damaging it like a ported one.

For music purposes where you aren't trying to get maximum extension and/or output I just like the simplicity of sealed. No question on the performance gains going ported for HT use where the extension and output is more needed.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I'm actually in the process of building a pair of 8" subs with the cheapo Dayton drivers - one is ported, the other is sealed. I wanted to see what the difference was in a side-by-side comparison.
 
Kaido

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
50,717
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vi edit said:
PE has some excellent drivers. The RS is a hell of a speaker for $150. But their electronics (amps) are a bit suspect (ground loop hum) and boxes are not that great for the money. The cases in particular are far overpriced and under braced. It's the bracing that is key in the boxes. Deadening resonance and making it solid to eliminate some of the "muddy" sound that others describe. The driver itself is very low distortion. But a cheap and poorly constructed box can make it sound like crap.
Click to expand...

Are there any other sources for lower-end mono amps for subs? I'm using a BASH 300w in my Sonosub, but I have a lot of little projects lined up for the Dayton 25w, 70w, 100w, etc. amps. The BASH models are available in 300 & 500w, but some of these projects are far more budget-oriented and don't require as much power.
 
H

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
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Kaido said:
Are there any other sources for lower-end mono amps for subs? I'm using a BASH 300w in my Sonosub, but I have a lot of little projects lined up for the Dayton 25w, 70w, 100w, etc. amps. The BASH models are available in 300 & 500w, but some of these projects are far more budget-oriented and don't require as much power.
Click to expand...
Parts Express has some cheap plate amps. You can also sometimes find decent plate amps on apexjr.com or ebay.

You don't want to get a regular amp because building the power supply isn't very fun or cheap.
 
vi edit

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
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Anubis said:
with this approach do you need an a HP filter like you do with the tapered horn linked above? MiniDPSs arent hard to work with or expensive, just curious if its needed here or the amp takes care of it for you
Click to expand...

You could use one, but it's no where as important as in vented enclosures. The air spring of the sealed enclosure offers a pretty good amount of protection. Not to say you can't bottom your sub out by being stupid, but you'd have to try to do that.
 
Anubis

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
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tbqhwy.com
alright, think i may give that a go. building that box should not be hard. prob wont make an elaborate faceplate like he did but the rest of the 18x18 cube is pretty straight foreword

 
vi edit

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
62,484
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If you have access to a table saw, a router, circle jig, and jig saw then it's cake.

I've got "fatman" and "little boy" in my HT setup...
https://public.bay.livefilestore.co...9_qDSQABU1dKWPRCXK68pOleQ/IMG_3917.JPG?psid=1

And honestly...That little seal box can pound out some very clean, loud bass. I actually am considering ditching the big ass MFW and building a second, sealed 15" version of the Dayton RS. it's just a very, very low distortion driver that sounds excellent. Doesn't have the excursion or power handling of other drivers, but it just sounds very good.
 
G

glen

Lifer
Apr 28, 2000
15,995
1
81
vi edit said:
If you have access to a table saw, a router, circle jig, and jig saw then it's cake.

I've got "fatman" and "little boy" in my HT setup...
https://public.bay.livefilestore.co...9_qDSQABU1dKWPRCXK68pOleQ/IMG_3917.JPG?psid=1

And honestly...That little seal box can pound out some very clean, loud bass. I actually am considering ditching the big ass MFW and building a second, sealed 15" version of the Dayton RS. it's just a very, very low distortion driver that sounds excellent. Doesn't have the excursion or power handling of other drivers, but it just sounds very good.
Click to expand...
Did you build that from a kit or from scratch?
 
vi edit

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
62,484
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From scratch. It's just a sheet of MDF ripped down, butt joints that are glued & clamped. Used plywood for the internal bracing. Used a circle jig and a router to cut out the holes. Then did a roundover bit on the edges of the holes. Then took a 45 degree bevel bit and routed off the edges of the box to make it less...boxy. I just have a simple black latex enamel that I painted it in. Nothing fancy and certainly not flawless...but it's in a very dark room and not really on display. Built for purpose, not for beauty. :D
 
Anubis

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
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tbqhwy.com
yea already know about the circle jig, impressive the elmers wood glue holds that together without the aide of screws, figured you would have used something a bit more serious like PL premium
 
vi edit

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
62,484
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Nope. Wood glue is crazy stuff. It's actually got a better bite than nails do. You don't want to drill/nail into the ends of MDF. It'll split/crack like crazy. The only reason to use nails or screws is to hold it together while you set your clamps. But that's not even necessary.
 
Anubis

Anubis

No Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
78,712
427
126
tbqhwy.com
yea ive worked with MDF before, it splits like cardboard when you do stuff to the ends of it, well because it basically is very thick layered cardboard
 
H

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
47,982
11
81
vi edit said:
Nope. Wood glue is crazy stuff. It's actually got a better bite than nails do. You don't want to drill/nail into the ends of MDF. It'll split/crack like crazy. The only reason to use nails or screws is to hold it together while you set your clamps. But that's not even necessary.
Click to expand...
I find that the easiest way for me to set up the gluing is to actually dry-clamp the boards together precisely, and then pilot drill into the butt joints so that I can use drywall screws as combination aligning pins/clamps during the actual gluing. I always put the clamps back on after the screws are tightened though, as insurance.

This way, glue setup is very clean and easy. Be sure to select a drill size that is equal in diameter to the shank (minor diameter) of the screws you use if you want to do it this way, though, since even a slight interference fit will cause splitting.
 
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