Took off the ihs of my Opty 144 today. Didn't take too long but I did slice off about 5 resistors. Thankfully my opty still works. However, my Zalman 7700 doesn't seem to be making good contact with the core as ambient temps are the same and load temps are about 4 degrees higher. The zalman is a little wobbly even after tightening it down all the way. I put small pieces of cardboard on the 4 corners of the cpu, but that doesn't help much. I think the CAM socket might be getting in the way. Anybody have any ideas on how to make the Zalman get better contact? A few posts up, someone said they modded the clamps of the heatsink but how would I go about doing that?
RampantAndroid
Diamond Member
- Jun 27, 2004
- 6,591
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The one was me
Beware of using the Zalman 7700 without modding the clamps! I don't think the contact is appropriate with the default distance, what is also indicated by your temp readings! It is far from being tight. I immediately removed it again before even thinking about firing it up
So what I did to mod it: You have these L-shaped clamps with the screws you hook into the cooler bracket, right? These have to go higher up to get more pressure on the screws. Therefore I took some piece of wire and wrapped it around the bracket (above the U-shaped area looking from below). I took some of the wire, cables are usually wrapped with on delivery. One layer on both sides is enough, as the claps still have to fit in and are a little canted then. For this reason you have to use one inner screwhole instead of both outer ones as before the mod.
Damn i should have taken a picture...this is far too complicated to tell...
Originally posted by: Doctorweir
Hmmm...for low 30s...?
lol, that isnt going to improve his performance if it runs 30's....unless he oc's it.
Originally posted by: Doctorweir
The one was me
Beware of using the Zalman 7700 without modding the clamps! I don't think the contact is appropriate with the default distance, what is also indicated by your temp readings! It is far from being tight. I immediately removed it again before even thinking about firing it up
So what I did to mod it: You have these L-shaped clamps with the screws you hook into the cooler bracket, right? These have to go higher up to get more pressure on the screws. Therefore I took some piece of wire and wrapped it around the bracket (above the U-shaped area looking from below). I took some of the wire, cables are usually wrapped with on delivery. One layer on both sides is enough, as the claps still have to fit in and are a little canted then. For this reason you have to use one inner screwhole instead of both outer ones as before the mod.
Damn i should have taken a picture...this is far too complicated to tell...
Wow, that does seem a bit complicated, but good job nonetheless. I'm guessing that means the socket was never a problem for you. If the main problem is that the heatsink sits too high, do you think filing down the metal washers (the ones the screws go into) would do the trick? Thanks again.
File down maybe a solution, but maybe the screws are too long afterwards...
Also considered that first, but the wire trick is much easier and quicker to apply...
Also considered that first, but the wire trick is much easier and quicker to apply...
i have a zalman on one of my rigs iahve done this to and it got good contact so i thought the zalman would work with out any modifiyng , but i rembered that i had lost my screws (damn carpet) and replaced them with smaller ones and used springs between the socket and the screw to give it the pressure sorry for the confusion adn problems about he zalman
RampantAndroid
Diamond Member
- Jun 27, 2004
- 6,591
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Originally posted by: w00t
Originally posted by: Doctorweir
Hmmm...for low 30s...?
lol, that isnt going to improve his performance if it runs 30's....unless he oc's it.
I'm not doing any OCing, but even on the stock cooling before I got my XP90, my temps were fine, and doing a 200 MHz overclock didn't raise my temps by much at all. Why risk it?
want to know becasue i just ordered my 165 tonight and want to make sure to know were the resistors were at, a guyb on the hardocp forums cut off a few resistors and cut some in half and his x2 still worked somehow
Originally posted by: Shimmishim
i've taken the IHS off of my 3700 SD and 148 Opteron.
temps dropped 10C's in both case.
i find razorblades to work best and I always start at a corner. I've measured how far in the blade should go and it should be between 3 to 4 mm tops.
I put tape around the blade at where 3mm is so that i don't go in too far.
going in too far will lead to damaging a resistor?/capacitor? on the chip.
either way, it's not for the faint of heart and does void your warranty.
good luck to all who attempt this!
as for getting more overclock.. in the case of my 3700, i gained nothing.
for my 148 opteron, i gained over 100 mhz prime stable and 200 mhz 32M spi stable.
This is what I used and the edge of the razor is the EXACT depth of not going into deep...
Razor
End Results:
3 Unlocks
Dadofamunky
Platinum Member
- Jan 4, 2005
- 2,184
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HA! Here's a way for Intel Prescott owners to finally say they won't fry an egg on their CPU! :thumbsup:
What a great freakin thread, by the way. But I don't think I'll be doing this, with my XP-90c giving me 42 degrees on a 4200 under full load....
Call me a wimp. I'm too scared to do this to my X2. I'm sure I can always improvise with my Zalman 7000 if the contact or pressure isn't good enough... that is, if I have the guts to actually pop the lid.
I'm sure I can always improvise with my Zalman 7000 if the contact or pressure isn't good enough... that is, if I have the guts to actually pop the lid.Made a shot yesterday and will upload it this evening...however it is not that clear, as I didn't take the HSF out. But I was messing around with my graphics board, so I had a clear side view...
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