You're talking about the etching/fogging, right? I'll ask them again.
Thanks for the tips guys. Got the Acetone so will tackle this as soon as I get time, and will report back.
Thanks for the tips guys. Got the Acetone so will tackle this as soon as I get time, and will report back.
Don't breathe the fumes. Try to have some air moving in there. It will make you stupid real quick if you're in there with the windows closed.
and, don't smoke, k?
and, don't smoke, k?
Sorry but I must ask instead of taking a chance of screwing up my windshield (and the reason I didn't try this last weekend) but someone told me acetone can damage glass so tell me that's not true. You that recommended acetone, you've actually used it on glass before, correct?
Acetone only eats certain types of plastics, and it doesn't harm glass. Even if it were to react with the windshield (i.e. the plastic in the laminate) it wouldn't eat a hole through it, just smudge it up. If you are concerned, test some acetone in a small spot in a corner and see what happens.
Also, Fluorine will eat glass (and just about anything else that gets in its way). I was under the impression that Fluorine was the only substance capable of this (i.e. etching compounds contain fluorine), but I may be mistaken.
Also, Fluorine will eat glass (and just about anything else that gets in its way). I was under the impression that Fluorine was the only substance capable of this (i.e. etching compounds contain fluorine), but I may be mistaken.
Acetone will not damage the glass in any way, safety glass consists of laminate sandwiched between two pieces of glass.
Roger, Klixxer, & myusername are right about the acetone not damaging normal glass, even safety glass.
phantom309, that is a great idea to use dental floss like a saw. I will use this the next time I need to remove a mirror button from a piece of glass.
phantom309, that is a great idea to use dental floss like a saw. I will use this the next time I need to remove a mirror button from a piece of glass.
Yeah, i have used it to remove stickers and stripes from windshields on all kinds of cars, you can soak it in acetone, it won't do anything to the glass.
Acetone used to be stored in glass containers only.
There are two types of acetone, one with oil and one without, use the one without oil in it, it penetrates better and doesn't leave an oily surface, both will work but the one without oil in it will work better.
Most fingernail polish removers contain acetone (any of the ones that DON'T advertise to be nice to your hands)... I usually use that, as I believe they are diluted a bit and if that's true, then I don't need to have straight acetone anywhere near me. hahaha. Powerful stuff.
Get a soft cloth, douse it in acetone/nail polish remover, and then press it up against the glass around the mirror mount. Just keep smushing it around so that the chemicals will work their way under the metal. I imagine it will come off fairly quickly (in less than 5 mins) with little work.
Get a soft cloth, douse it in acetone/nail polish remover, and then press it up against the glass around the mirror mount. Just keep smushing it around so that the chemicals will work their way under the metal. I imagine it will come off fairly quickly (in less than 5 mins) with little work.
get some big subwoofers and play a constant 75hz through them at the highest possible volume. it should shake the mirror mount and any other fixed items such as transmissions and doors right off the car.
I've been trying to do this with acetone, but it just won't budge the glue on the mirror button. I take a small straw and get some acetone up in it, then let it out, flowing down the glue part of the button, catching it with a rag. I hold the rag on there and fill the straw up again. I've tried it 5 times in a row, over a few minutes, but the dental floss won't even budge through it the least bit. I've tried lightly twisting the button too. What am I doing wrong?
I am kinda amazed at the stubborness of that glue, it usually comes off clean with acetone.
I don't know much about epoxy remover, i thought it was basically acetone and bensene and if acetone won't do the job it won't either, i may be wrong though, i need to look into the chemicals involved before i make a fina judgement but i sincerely doubt it will hurt glass, apart from a select few very corroding chemicals i don't know of any that will hurt glass.
OrooOroo: that is my point, it is tempered glass sandwiched with a thin sticky film in the middle. If it cannot penetrate the glass it won't reach the plastic.
Rumpltzer
Diamond Member
- Jun 7, 2003
- 4,815
- 33
- 91
With as much plastic on the dash, trim, appliances in my precious car, I'd hold off on the acetone until I tried a less aggressive approach. I also do wonder how well the acetone will seep under the button.
I work with acetone and other solvents and acids. Acetone certainly doesn't etch glass, and it won't kill you too fast if you breath it. I mean, over years you'll go cancerous, but a few minutes won't kill you. I hear that even methanol is worse in that respect.
It'll burn like mad. Don't smoke while you're doing the job.
Acetone is near the paint supplies wherever you can buy paint. It might be labeled "paint thinner" or "brush cleaner". It's also some nail polish removers, but when you label it as nail polish remover its value triples for some reason.
We bond flat surfaces together a lot in my lab, and the way we release them is to slip a new razor blade along the edges. With something like a mirror button, I imagine it's going to be a tough job. If there was such a thing as a paint scraper with a very thin blade and an edge, I think it'd be perfect for you. You could give it a few whacks to get it under the edge and then it should pop off.
A heat gun might also help, but I'd be concerned (at the temperatures required) about the embedded material between the glass in your windshield.
BTW - Hydroflouric acid (HF) is what you're looking for to etch glass. You can buy very diluted versions in craft stores labeled as decorative glass etchant. HF is excellent stuff because it's able to seep through some types of lab gloves, and it doesn't leave a noticeable burn on your skin or flesh. Instead, it seeps into you and eats away at your bones. The treatment is to load you up with tons of calcium injections... and that's only after you figured out what has happened! It's suppose to hurt a lot.
Have fun, and good luck!
I work with acetone and other solvents and acids. Acetone certainly doesn't etch glass, and it won't kill you too fast if you breath it. I mean, over years you'll go cancerous, but a few minutes won't kill you. I hear that even methanol is worse in that respect.
It'll burn like mad. Don't smoke while you're doing the job.
Acetone is near the paint supplies wherever you can buy paint. It might be labeled "paint thinner" or "brush cleaner". It's also some nail polish removers, but when you label it as nail polish remover its value triples for some reason.
We bond flat surfaces together a lot in my lab, and the way we release them is to slip a new razor blade along the edges. With something like a mirror button, I imagine it's going to be a tough job. If there was such a thing as a paint scraper with a very thin blade and an edge, I think it'd be perfect for you. You could give it a few whacks to get it under the edge and then it should pop off.
A heat gun might also help, but I'd be concerned (at the temperatures required) about the embedded material between the glass in your windshield.
BTW - Hydroflouric acid (HF) is what you're looking for to etch glass. You can buy very diluted versions in craft stores labeled as decorative glass etchant. HF is excellent stuff because it's able to seep through some types of lab gloves, and it doesn't leave a noticeable burn on your skin or flesh. Instead, it seeps into you and eats away at your bones. The treatment is to load you up with tons of calcium injections... and that's only after you figured out what has happened! It's suppose to hurt a lot.
Have fun, and good luck!
Acetone will not work to remove the mirror button.
The only way that you will remove the mirror button that has a good bond to the windshield is with heat. And yes, you do stand a chance of damaging the windshield. Too much heat could melt the PVB inner layer or even cause the glass to stress crack.
Now, if you still want to take the chance, I would suggest using a small mini torch with a small concentrated flame, moving it in a circular motion directly over the button, making sure to evenly apply the heat to the whole button. Do not hold the heat in one place too long. What you are trying to do is soften the entire contact patch of the adhesive.
Use a small pair of channel lock pliers that are pre-adusted to the correct width of the button (test plier width adjustment before applying heat) to gently twist the button. If it does not twist off with medium pressure, apply more heat and try again. The problem with this process is that it is subjective how much heat and twisting pressure that is needed to remove the button without damage to the glass. It takes a little bit of a feel, for lack of a better way to explain it.
BTW, what type of vehicle is it? What type, kind, size, button are you planning to use? What type of adhesive are you planning to re-glue the button on with? If you answer these questions, I may be able to give more advise to help you along with this.
My credentials: NGA Master Technician (National Glass Association). Regional Technical Trainer, for the largest auto glass replacement company in the US. 28 years experience in the AGR industry.
The only way that you will remove the mirror button that has a good bond to the windshield is with heat. And yes, you do stand a chance of damaging the windshield. Too much heat could melt the PVB inner layer or even cause the glass to stress crack.
Now, if you still want to take the chance, I would suggest using a small mini torch with a small concentrated flame, moving it in a circular motion directly over the button, making sure to evenly apply the heat to the whole button. Do not hold the heat in one place too long. What you are trying to do is soften the entire contact patch of the adhesive.
Use a small pair of channel lock pliers that are pre-adusted to the correct width of the button (test plier width adjustment before applying heat) to gently twist the button. If it does not twist off with medium pressure, apply more heat and try again. The problem with this process is that it is subjective how much heat and twisting pressure that is needed to remove the button without damage to the glass. It takes a little bit of a feel, for lack of a better way to explain it.
BTW, what type of vehicle is it? What type, kind, size, button are you planning to use? What type of adhesive are you planning to re-glue the button on with? If you answer these questions, I may be able to give more advise to help you along with this.
My credentials: NGA Master Technician (National Glass Association). Regional Technical Trainer, for the largest auto glass replacement company in the US. 28 years experience in the AGR industry.
It's a 2000 Nissan Frontier. The button I plan to use is a wedge type from CIPA, for their 19701 auto dim mirror (made by Donnelly). I can't remember the model #, but could find it if you really need it. I can measure it too if that's what you're asking (though dont see how that helps). I was planning to use the regular permatex mirror mounting glue kit from the auto parts store that everyone uses.
Man this sucks.
Man this sucks.
The reason I asked about the size of the mirror bracket/button is because I have seen some of the larger size mirror brackets cause stress cracks when glued with the wrong adhesive. I am not familiar with the mirror you are referring to, so I am not sure what to advise on it. Sorry.
If the button is not too big, I would suggest using Loctite mirror adhesive. It's a 2 part adhesive with a primer that works as a catalyst for the adhesive. It too is available at many auto parts stores as a single application kit.
Stay away from the one part silicone type adhesive kits. They do not bond as well.
If the button is not too big, I would suggest using Loctite mirror adhesive. It's a 2 part adhesive with a primer that works as a catalyst for the adhesive. It too is available at many auto parts stores as a single application kit.
Stay away from the one part silicone type adhesive kits. They do not bond as well.
The Permatex adhesive is two part also. link
CIPA is a reseller for Donnelly, who's the largest OEM auto mirror mfg. The mirror I got is made by Donnelly and is the same as the ones sold under the Donnelly name. It's an OEM mirror in some vehicles. The mirror I'm removing is made by them as well. Actually it's a Donnelly #19701 and CIPA #36400 auto dim w/ compass and temp.
CIPA is a reseller for Donnelly, who's the largest OEM auto mirror mfg. The mirror I got is made by Donnelly and is the same as the ones sold under the Donnelly name. It's an OEM mirror in some vehicles. The mirror I'm removing is made by them as well. Actually it's a Donnelly #19701 and CIPA #36400 auto dim w/ compass and temp.
alkemyst
No Lifer
- Feb 13, 2001
- 83,769
- 19
- 81
The screwed up part is so often the whole deal just falls off in the middle of traffic, yet when you want it off good luck.
All the choices really require good protection of all the surrounding areas...regardless of whether you wipe or not, a chemical that attacks will may noticible markings on the plastic bits.
All the choices really require good protection of all the surrounding areas...regardless of whether you wipe or not, a chemical that attacks will may noticible markings on the plastic bits
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