How to go about buying a new Bowling Ball?

[fustercluck]

Hope this post isn't too boring (actually i'm pretty sure it is), would appreciate any help.

I've been bowling pretty consistently for about a year 1/2 to 2 years now, just for fun basically, never really concerned with my scores. I try and go about once a week. Sort of taught myself up to this point (which might not be a good thing), and been using a $10 bowling ball i bought from a used store (which isn't half bad actually). Average is about 140, get a nice high game every once in while.

I want a nice bowling ball, one that fits perfectly. My hand/wrist/arm gets fatigued after a few games with my current bowling ball, even though it's a fairly good fit, it's not perfect, and obviously causes the fatigue that i probably wouldn't get with a ball custom made for my hand.

I don't know how to go about buying a bowling ball though, it just seems like there is no good way to do it. This is because i don't know what kind of bowling ball i want, i have no idea. I bowl a hook ball, like the pros (well, not exactly like the pros, but i try ). I don't know if i want to get a ball that hooks a lot, just because i bowl a hook does that mean i want to get a ball with a top hook rating? And there's really no way to try out bowling balls before you buy them, since they need to fit you at least somewhat. Also, most good bowling balls are quite expensive. So is there a better way of buying a bowling ball than pointing and saying "eeny, meeny, miney moe"? So many brands, so many different kinds to choose from. All i know is that i want a fingertip ball, and probably a 16 pounder.

If i buy one and end up not liking it, then i'm kinda screwed, since i already paid for the bowling ball, and the drilling (which is also kind of pricey, but is sometimes included in the price of the ball). So how the heck do i decide what bowling ball i want to get? Seems like there's no easy way to go about buying a new ball.

 

[AgaBoogaBoo]

Have you talked to a local shop that sells bowling balls?

 

[compuwiz1]

Used balls, FTW!

Garage sales are good places to start. Their balls are dirt cheap, but usually the wrong drill. No problem, filling and re-drilling a ball is cheap.

 

[fustercluck]

Talked to a local shop about what? They'll probably just point me in the direction of their most expensive ball. Also, in my experience, bowling shops always have A-holes working there. Apparently it's not a job that puts you in a happy mood

Originally posted by: compuwiz1
Used balls, FTW!

Garage sales are good places to start. Their balls are dirt cheap, but usually the wrong drill. No problem, filling and re-drilling a ball is cheap.

How cheap?

Even if it were a used ball i still wouldn't know if it would be better than my current one or not. I might be able to guess though, the ball i'm using now is like real old. It's made out of wood actually. Not really - Probably from 70s or 80s though.

 

[darkswordsman17]

Get one custom made see through with a rose in the center.

 

[fustercluck]

Originally posted by: darkswordsman17
Get one custom made see through with a rose in the center.

Or a human skull

 

[sao123]

Originally posted by: jacktackle
Hope this post isn't too boring (actually i'm pretty sure it is), would appreciate any help.

I've been bowling pretty consistently for about a year 1/2 to 2 years now, just for fun basically, never really concerned with my scores. I try and go about once a week. Sort of taught myself up to this point (which might not be a good thing), and been using a $10 bowling ball i bought from a used store (which isn't half bad actually). Average is about 140, get a nice high game every once in while.

I want a nice bowling ball, one that fits perfectly. My hand/wrist/arm gets fatigued after a few games with my current bowling ball, even though it's a fairly good fit, it's not perfect, and obviously causes the fatigue that i probably wouldn't get with a ball custom made for my hand.

I don't know how to go about buying a bowling ball though, it just seems like there is no good way to do it. This is because i don't know what kind of bowling ball i want, i have no idea. I bowl a hook ball, like the pros (well, not exactly like the pros, but i try ). I don't know if i want to get a ball that hooks a lot, just because i bowl a hook does that mean i want to get a ball with a top hook rating? And there's really no way to try out bowling balls before you buy them, since they need to fit you at least somewhat. Also, most good bowling balls are quite expensive. So is there a better way of buying a bowling ball than pointing and saying "eeny, meeny, miney moe"? So many brands, so many different kinds to choose from. All i know is that i want a fingertip ball, and probably a 16 pounder.

If i buy one and end up not liking it, then i'm kinda screwed, since i already paid for the bowling ball, and the drilling (which is also kind of pricey, but is sometimes included in the price of the ball). So how the heck do i decide what bowling ball i want to get? Seems like there's no easy way to go about buying a new ball.

Unless you're bowling 300's every other game...pretty much any poly-urethane ball will do for you.

http://www.bowlersparadise.com/shop/bal...gi-bin/smartfaq.cgi?subject=1021889678

1. Go to Bowling Alley
2. Pick Pretty ball.
3. Get Measured and Drill
4. Bowl
5. Profit

 

[VTHodge]

Originally posted by: sao123

Unless you're bowling 300's every other game...pretty much any poly-urethane ball will do for you.

Pretty much true. You want something in the $50-$100 range. The biggest difference is that the cheap balls are evenly distributed and more expensive balls have a bias (helps the hook pull through at the end).

Most larger alleys have a pro shop. Just go in and pick a middle of the road ball that looks nice. He will drill it the way you ask for (the best ones will watch you bowl with your old one and will make some drilling recommendations).

I wasted about $200 on a ball that was way more than I needed. My $50 ball is just fine.

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: sao123
Unless you're bowling 300's every other game...pretty much any poly-urethane ball will do for you.

What is this, the 70's? Get a reactive ball. Easily had for < $100. I just picked up a reactive inferno ball for $120 from bowling.com that the local proshop was selling for $249 + drilling. 140 is the range of 'getting good, time for equipment that doesn't hold me back' A poly ball is like trying to golf with a set of woods that actually are wood.

I had the particulate version but the proshop recomended (and I got) a new pin position so it was no longer pin-in. even though the particulate version had the largest HP of any other ball ever made to the time it ended up hooking < 5 baords for me. The reactive with pin-in hooks closer to 15. I wouldn't recomend the particulate version in this case, because there is little margin for error. A reactive polished with 1500 grit would likely make a huge difference.

My advide:
get a reactive resin ball in the middle range of HP (hook potential) for medium boards (not oily, not dry, it will be listed in the specs of the ball). Also, you probably want a 15 lb not a 16, as your fatigue is likely caused by the weight, not the fit.

Other than that, most brands are the same, or trend the same though there are fanboi's for every brand. I have used columbia's, hammer, ebonite, brunswick, storm and tracks usually based on someone's recomendations. the only one I ever had an issue with was a brunswick that I cracked the cover on.

somethign along the lines of this ball

 

[fustercluck]

Thanks for the help/info.

I don't doubt a poly-urethane ball could work well for me, but i'm leaning towards Evadman's recommendation. Why not use some of the newer "technology" in bowling balls that have been made in the last 5 years or so? Then again, i still don't know what all the bowling ball mumbo jumbo means. Not sure how a reactive ball is different, or what the difference between particulate and pin position is. A few google searches should bring me up to task.

Maybe a 15 lb ball would be better for me, but i am a fairly big/strong guy. Maybe the fatigue is just due to me cranking the ball too much, coupled with the non-perfect fit.

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: jacktackle
Thanks for the help/info.

I don't doubt a poly-urethane ball could work well for me, but i'm leaning towards Evadman's recommendation. Why not use some of the newer "technology" in bowling balls that have been made in the last 5 years or so? Then again, i still don't know what all the bowling ball mumbo jumbo means. Not sure how a reactive ball is different, or what the difference between particulate and pin position is. A few google searches should bring me up to task.

Maybe a 15 lb ball would be better for me, but i am a fairly big/strong guy. Maybe the fatigue is just due to me cranking the ball too much, coupled with the non-perfect fit.

Rough overview:
the outside of a ball (usually about 1" thick) is called the coverstock. There are many different types of coverstocks, but there are 3 'main' ones which are polyurethane, reactive resin (also called reactive) and particulate.

Polyurethane balls are what you see in the bowling alleys as lane balls. they are extreamly hard and last forever. However they do not get a 'grip' on the lane and require massive amounts of revolutions to turn at the break point on the lane.

The break point is about 40' from the foul line, it is where the oil usually stops. it is different based on the pattern of oil applied to the lane, and there are many different patterns, though 5 main ones plus the flat 40' oil pattern which you don't see often.

Anyway, a poly ball will continue 'skidding' after the oil stops because the oil is still stuck tot he outside of the ball, so it gets no traction.

That is where reactive and particulates come in. What they do is react in some way to the oil (and hitting the dry backend, the part of the lane after the oil) and using some nifty tricks, get more bite ont he lane, and thus more hook. A reactive ball will 'pull' the oil into the coverstock, thus lowering the amount of oil left over on the ball when it hits the break point, so it starts hooking early.

This is called the 'length' or how far after the oil stops does the ball react. longer length means the ball will react later (and thus closer to the pins) The length can be adjusted after you get the ball by changing the finish on the ball by using polish or roughing the surface. The rougher it is, the shorter the length will be. Don't plan on doing this any time soon, generally this is done when you bowl all over the place and need a bunch of balls for different lane conditions like when they are dry, oily, middle range, high carrydown (lots of oil after the 40' mark because high use moves the oil down the lane towards the pins)

A particulate ball will also suck up oil, but it has basicly an aggrage in the coverstock. Think of it like sandpaper for more bite. These are the insanely high hooking balls, you have to throw seriously hard or have low RPM (revolutions per minnute) for most of them. however they are very hard to use and unforgiving. If you are off in your speed of delivery even a little the ball will move drasticly on the other end. I would stay away from these as a beginner/intermediate.

the 'pin' that I mentioned is the little circle on the ball. this is where the weight was hung when the poured the ball. Moving the finger holes to different locations will vary how the ball reacts. a 'pin-in' is when the pin is between the thumb and fingers, so your palm actually touches it. This is where the vast majority are drilled. The ball I was very unhappy with was drilled where the pin was about 2.5 inches above and to the left of the middle finger hole.

This results in a later break (longer length) with is supposed to result in a higher angle of attack to the pocket. Hwoever I throw way too hard and the ball could not react fact enough. If I slowed way down, it would do as advertized, but I am not as acurate throwing slow, and as I said above, if youa re not perfectly consistant a parrticle ball will bite you. Well, it did. I got pissed and cracked it after I left one too many 10 pins when I threw it as hard as I could at a pin.

As for the fatigue, generally a fingertip ball should be a 15, it is just too much weight to try to manipulate and be consistant without a full grip. If your bicep, forarm, or fingers hurt, it is usually weight. If it is only your fingers, it is weight or the way you are throwing it. If it is your middle finger and middle finger only, you are putting too much force on your hand trying to rotate the ball, back off the rotations. If it is your thumb, it is the grip.

I used to throw a 16, and threw it for a long time. then a coach who was way smarter than me recomended a 15 lb ball with everything else the same. (I have a full grip, not fingertip) and my average went up almost 15 pins in less than a month. If course, everyone's different but it worked for me. I was under the impression that weight > accuracy. Well, accuracy counts more, and it was much easier for me to be consistant with a 15.

 

[imported_sling]

Originally posted by: jacktackle
Thanks for the help/info.

I don't doubt a poly-urethane ball could work well for me, but i'm leaning towards Evadman's recommendation. Why not use some of the newer "technology" in bowling balls that have been made in the last 5 years or so? Then again, i still don't know what all the bowling ball mumbo jumbo means. Not sure how a reactive ball is different, or what the difference between particulate and pin position is. A few google searches should bring me up to task.

Maybe a 15 lb ball would be better for me, but i am a fairly big/strong guy. Maybe the fatigue is just due to me cranking the ball too much, coupled with the non-perfect fit.

I just bought my wife and I our first bowling balls. We're stoked about bowling more and wanted something that would fit and something we could learn to hook a little better. We've been at this for 2 months now and we're averaging 165 for me, and 130 for her, and she bowled a 240 a few days ago.

If you're looking for something cost effective that will still perform well, look for the bottom end of the reactive resin balls. These are the Brunswick Power Groove, Tropical STORM, Tornado Warning, etc. the "mid-range" balls on bowlersparadise.com

My wife has the power groove and it hooks great on medium-dry and still gets to the pocket ok in medium-heavy. I got an older columbia hyde, which is a reactive+particle cover, and I get the same performance she gets from her ball, the difference being ball speed.

The slower the ball speed the less hook potential you will want, due to over hooking on drier conditions. With a faster ball speed you'll want something a little more aggresive so that your ball doesn't skid down the lane and never real start to hook and roll. The $50 plastic balls will do you no good, other than for shooting 10 pins if you're right handed.

I've been looking at some higher end stuff just because I'm having to slow my ball speed down to a level that's getting uncomfortable (this is due to getting stronger, as I just started bowling) you however, have been at it for a while and should have a constant ball speed, so if it's fast, get something that's gonna hook when you throw it at your normal speed, even in heavy oil. If you're slower, get something in the mid-range, because it's got plenty of time to grab and hook. It's going to also depend heavily on the normal house conditions where you bowl. We bowl in a Sunday night league, on lanes that haven't been oiled all day. If the house has been busy then there is a TON of oil carried down the lanes, onto the part of the lane that is supposed to be dry. Conditions like this favor a more aggresive ball, since it will grip and hook even in the carry-down. If you bowl at a place that gives you a clean shot, or they use lighter oil, then you're gonna get a good snap at the end of the house shot and this would favor a lower end ball, since the more aggressive ball will over hook and you'll get a brooklyn shot that can result in a lucky strike, or an unforgiving split.

I'm trying to get 4 balls to carry with me. I'm going to keep my Hyde for medium oil, since that's where it works best, then I want something that is lower end for dry lanes, like a tornado or power groove, I also am looking to get a Hammer Black Widow for the heavy stuff, or an Ebonite Big One. Then there's always a need for a plastic/urathane ball for shooting spares, or REALLY dry lanes, dry enough to resemble what houses used in the 70s when a urathane ball would really hook.

I'm hearing excellent stuff about Brunswick's Inferno series also, they have a range of balls for several conditions.

My advise is that you let a local shop guy (ask other bowlers, you can go to any house to buy stuff, and some actually have a pro that runs the shop) watch you bowl a few times, so that they can drill a ball in a way to best benefit your style (I have no idea of the science behind drilling) and they can also help you pick something versitle, if you're only planning on having one ball for a while.

This sport has been huge fun for my wife and I. I've been going 3 times a week because the house we bowl in gives league members $0.75 practice games and free shoes (we're new enough to this that we haven't bought shoes yet.) We're constantly improving but we can also see that there is no one ball for every condition. To have one ball you need one that you can adjust with, and I mean in all categories, position, target, and speed. I feel that if I'm going to be consistant on different conditions then I need different balls for different conditions, this can take the speed variable out of the adjustments and even some on the position.

It's just like a golf swing. You want to swing the same every time, and adjust length and height with club selection.

I hope this helps some, and good luck! Let us know what you decide to buy!

Also, I've found that buying a ball in the shop has advantages. I got my wife's power groove for $70 drilled and finger inserts. Online it was $54, then it was $25 to get it drilled, which would have totaled $79. Shops will also replace your ball if you buy one there and they mess it up during drilling, where if you buy it online and have it drilled you may or may not be "on your own."

 

[fustercluck]

Thanks for the help Evadman and Sling, ATOT rules!

Yeah, bowling is a lot of fun. Especially since there's not much else to do in Tucson that's indoors. I think i can figure out what to get now, at least i have an idea of what to get, which i didn't have before. I usually bowl fairly fast, depending on lane conditions. Not too fast, but a normal fast. Unless the lane is real oily, then i'll bowl at about average speed (i guess). I know what you mean about trying to slow down your bowling, it always seems to throw me off my game too. So I'll probably get a ball with a hook rating somewhere in the middle. If i get a ball with too high of a hook rating, i'll end up having to chuck the ball down the lane as hard as i can everytime, and that would leave me with a sore hand/wrist/arm again. I probably will go down to a 15 pound ball, i definitely drop my 16 lb too early sometimes due to weight/fatigue. So a 15 pounder should help out, at least some. Then again, i don't want a ball that won't hook enough either, or else i'll end up trying to crank it to get as many revs as possible on it, and that would also not be good. So something with a medium hook rating is probably what i'm looking for, maybe something a little above the middle. Will most likely get a reactive ball with a pin too (my current ball has a pin, just didn't know what it was before, heh)

Bowling is super cheap here in the summer if you have the right coupons. Me and a couple buddies go, all bowl 3 games, and total comes to like $3.30 or something like that after using the coupouns (grabbed a bunch of coupons at Mcdonalds for $3 off per person until Sept 30th). So I guess i'll stop in the pro shop next time and check things out, maybe talk to someone if they're not too grumpy - The Powergroove looks something for me to consider.

 

[imported_sling]

The power groove is a low end reactive ball, with a lower than average hook potential.

Ebonite Big Time Sanded I see alot of these, and I knew a couple people that have two or three of them in their bag. Just buy it, have it drilled, then use it a bit to see what it does for you and where it needs to go, then polish it, or rough it up to get the desired reaction.

The power groove is great though, if you need something cheaper that still bites and hooks. If you have the extra $$ get something in the $100 range, it'll hit alot harder than the powergroove, due to the nature of the powergrove's core system it doesn't hit the hardest in the world.

Maybe a Hammer Pain or something, they have some good info at www.hammerbowling.com.

Do some shopping, but something sanded with a good core will make you the happiest, due to the carry it gets on the pins due to the core, and the adjustability of the cover. If you need it to go longer and hook farther down the lane, toss it in the polishing machine. If you need it to break earlier go to the pro shop and give them 3 bucks to sand it, or, for those of us that are poor, it's easy enough to get a green scotchbrite pad to scuff the ball up with

 

[fustercluck]

I could probably get the Ebonite Big Time Sanded, I'll look around for it. Can always buy it online i guess if i decide to do that, would probably be able to find it much cheaper online anyways, like most things in life.

Looks like it hooks a whole lot based on the specs shown. I don't know if i want a ball that hooks that much, but it sounds good. Does a polishing machine really take off a lot of spin power? If i find it to hook too much i hope a polishing machine would make a noticeable difference.

 

[JM Aggie08]

Originally posted by: jacktackle

Originally posted by: darkswordsman17
Get one custom made see through with a rose in the center.

Or a human skull

Mystery Men FTW!

 

[YoYoBabyYo]

I am also shopping for a ball, but I have been bowling straight ball and want to develop a hook.

Sling mentioned a Tornado, but there are so many different kinds, which is the best one to get? Tornado

Or would a Power Groove be a better choice?

Are there better suggestions for somebody who wants to develop a hook? I am not a strong guy, and I can only handle a 12 lb ball. I am not looking to spend a lot, and am only looking to spend around $100 for the ball and drilling.

Also, any tips for drilling?

Thank for all the help!

 

[OdiN]

YoYo -

Drive up here and I'll give you free bowling lessons

Learning to hook isn't too hard with some instruction.

My average at the moment is 196.

 

[YoYoBabyYo]

Originally posted by: OdiN
YoYo -

Drive up here and I'll give you free bowling lessons

Learning to hook isn't too hard with some instruction.

My average at the moment is 196.

I have no idea where Visalia, but it sounds like it is v. far from Irvine.

 

[OdiN]

Originally posted by: YoYoBabyYo

Originally posted by: OdiN
YoYo -

Drive up here and I'll give you free bowling lessons

Learning to hook isn't too hard with some instruction.

My average at the moment is 196.

I have no idea where Visalia, but it sounds like it is v. far from Irvine.

About 3 hours.

 

[YoYoBabyYo]

Originally posted by: OdiN

Originally posted by: YoYoBabyYo

Originally posted by: OdiN
YoYo -

Drive up here and I'll give you free bowling lessons

Learning to hook isn't too hard with some instruction.

My average at the moment is 196.

I have no idea where Visalia, but it sounds like it is v. far from Irvine.

About 3 hours.

Thanks, but no thanks! Maybe one day, if I ever feel like being spontaneous and adventurous!

 

[Pacfanweb]

Some good advice from Evadman. Some not so good from others.

I have stopped bowling the last year or so, but here some advice from someone who carried a 215 average and has several 300 games and 800 series...not to mention worked in a pro shop when he was younger.....
<--------

Have the local pro shop guy watch you bowl. This is important.
Nobody can give you a decent recommendation on what ball is right FOR YOU, unless they know how you bowl. How much ball speed, how many revs, how much you like it to hook....do you want it to hook early or late?

All this can be determined by a good pro shop operator in less than a game's worth of bowling.

Next: Buy a used ball from the pro shop. Much cheaper. Most pro shop operators I know drill new balls to try all the time. Not every single new ball that comes out, but quite a few. They obviously can't use them all a lot, but this helps them make recommendations for others.
So these balls get used a bit, and end up plugged and sitting on the rack waiting for a new owner.

If you decide to get serious about bowling, you'll need at least 4 balls, plus a non-hooking spare ball if you hook it a lot.
Different ball surfaces do different things on the lanes.
It's all about the friction of the surface.

Old school urethane balls are worthless. You can't even hook one on today's lane conditions. In the past, when the PBA decided to put down a very oily pattern on the lane and the guys couldn't hook the ball enough, they'd sand them and drill them with thumb and negative side weight. And slow down their ball speed. Sometimes, almost nobody could hook the ball much it was so oily.

But if you could take one of today's shiny reactive balls and step back in time to those conditions, you probably would have trouble keeping the ball on the lane, it would hook so much.
That's why urethane is worthless now....even a heavily sanded Blue Hammer, the hookingest ball urethane ball ever made, won't hardly hook on today's oil.
Yet reactive and others will.

So get your pro shop guy to watch you bowl, then get a couple of used balls from him based on his recommendation.
Have him fit your hand.
Have the ball drilled with the fingertip grip. Forget conventional. If you're averaging 140 with some POS yard-sale ball, you're beyond that.
A good reactive ball drilled for you is going to increase your average by 20+ pins easily when you get used to how it rolls.
If you have trouble picking up corner pins, (10 for righties, 7 for lefties), you'll want a plastic spare ball. They make all sorts of cool ones. Not too expensive, either.
Weight, I'd recommend a 14 or a 15. Hardly any pros use 16's anymore. They actually hit too hard. Plus, your endurance will be much better with the lighter ones. There will be hardly any difference in hitting power between the 14 and 15.

Good luck.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: YoYoBabyYo
Are there better suggestions for somebody who wants to develop a hook? I am not a strong guy, and I can only handle a 12 lb ball. I am not looking to spend a lot, and am only looking to spend around $100 for the ball and drilling.

Also, any tips for drilling?

Thank for all the help!

Buy a used reactive ball from the pro shop. They are like new after resurfacing.
That way, you can get a top-line ball for much less....then, if you get serious later, you can buy a new one.

You can easily throw a 14-16lb ball that is fitted to your hand. Only kids need a 12lb ball.

Women used to come in the shop all the time wanting a 10lb ball. The owner would tell them "You can go to the mall, or the grocery, buy 20lbs worth of stuff, carry it and a kid out to the car, and you think you can't throw a measly 14lb ball?".

So most any guy can easily throw those weights. You'll lose a lot of hitting power if you get a 12.

 

[OdiN]

I disagree with the needing 4 balls if you're serious. I'm serious about bowling and bowl on league here. I have 2 balls. My second one is my spare ball. I have a 196 average at the moment - it was 206 earlier in the league but I've had a few bad weeks...league on monday and doing a lot of work on weekends leaving me quite tired and worn out on Mondays. Hurt my game a bit.

Though I suppose it dpends what you mean by "serious about bowling"

 

[mrchan]

If your local pro shop just tries to sell you the most expensive ball they have, go to a different shop. A good pro shop guy will talk to you about your game, maybe even watch you bowl to find out which ball works for you and which drill is best.

When I got a new bowling ball last year, the pro shop guy recommened me a Columbia Messenger (there's a pretty big chance your pro shop guy will recommend this to you as well, VERY popular ball), about $140 drilled. I asked him if I should spend more, and he told me no.

Go to a GOOD pro shop.