How difficult is body work?

[jlee]

I might rescue this car.

I have mechanical tools and a decent air compressor. Aside from learning to weld (and buying a welder)...anybody have suggestions on how to start?

How hard can it be? /Clarkson 😀

 

[JulesMaximus]

That car needs a lot of work...and it's an automatic. :thumbsdown:

 

[SparkyJJO]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
That car needs a lot of work...and it's an automatic. :thumbsdown:

But for learning would it be a bad thing? Not like you want to do your first time practice on a nice car.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
That car needs a lot of work...and it's an automatic. :thumbsdown:

The transmission is also shot. $600 for the car..I'm thinking if I show up with $500 and a trailer, he might go for it.

A 5sp transmission from a turbo model bolts right up- no cutting, drilling or custom work required. Said transmission also bolts right up to a 3VZFE (3.0l V6), which also bolts right into the MR2 with one custom bracket.

Originally posted by: SparkyJJO

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
That car needs a lot of work...and it's an automatic. :thumbsdown:

But for learning would it be a bad thing? Not like you want to do your first time practice on a nice car.

Exactly. I wouldn't dream of trying to learn on my car (see sig)..I'm afraid that might be a bad day. 😱

I'd have no time pressure with this- and with my car, I want it on the road so I can be driving it during this all-too-short summer!

 

[Doggiedog]

I was just talking to my friends about the MR2 yesterday.

What a sweet car at the time, especially the turbo version.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: Doggiedog
I was just talking to my friends about the MR2 yesterday.

What a sweet car at the time, especially the turbo version.

Still is. 🙂

I just got the original window sticker info on my car today...it was almost $24k new.. :Q

 

[TehMac]

Good luck is all I can say. If you're planning to get a manual, maybe a six speed?

And take your time.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: TehMac
Good luck is all I can say. If you're planning to get a manual, maybe a six speed?

And take your time.

Not really an option..there aren't any that fit easily.

 

[sjwaste]

Originally posted by: JLee
I might rescue this car.

I have mechanical tools and a decent air compressor. Aside from learning to weld (and buying a welder)...anybody have suggestions on how to start?

How hard can it be? /Clarkson 😀

You must know, mechanical work on the SW20 is ridiculous at times. It's hard to get at anything in there, so if you're swapping the transmission, plan to drop the engine/trans as one piece out the bottom.

The MR2 and Supra of that era are notoriously difficult to reinstall a trans on if you took it out w/o the engine.

That said, the SW20 is a great looking car. You might as well learn body work on it, because at worst, that car gets no better than it currently is. At best, you have a great looking car that you restored yourself.

Toyota also happens to be very good with parts support. I think they guarantee parts for 10 years past the date of production, but tend to produce enough to last a lot longer. I still buy OEM parts for my Supra, for instance.

Price out the body panels that need replacement first. Give Jay Marks Toyota (I think called Champion Toyota) in Texas a call. Those guys know the Supra and MR2.

Good luck. I really want an SW22.

EDIT: You mentioned that the 3VZ bolts in fairly easily. Didn't know that, but you might want to look into the 3S-GTE (stock turbo engine) since more of your factory electronics will work. The car itself is no slouch with the 5S-FE, though.

 

[Doggiedog]

Originally posted by: JLee

Originally posted by: Doggiedog
I was just talking to my friends about the MR2 yesterday.

What a sweet car at the time, especially the turbo version.

Still is. 🙂

I just got the original window sticker info on my car today...it was almost $24k new.. :Q

You're right. I was saying that as I was driving this weekend when a red turbo MR2 passed me on the right.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: sjwaste

Originally posted by: JLee
I might rescue this car.

I have mechanical tools and a decent air compressor. Aside from learning to weld (and buying a welder)...anybody have suggestions on how to start?

How hard can it be? /Clarkson 😀

You must know, mechanical work on the SW20 is ridiculous at times. It's hard to get at anything in there, so if you're swapping the transmission, plan to drop the engine/trans as one piece out the bottom.

The MR2 and Supra of that era are notoriously difficult to reinstall a trans on if you took it out w/o the engine.

That said, the SW20 is a great looking car. You might as well learn body work on it, because at worst, that car gets no better than it currently is. At best, you have a great looking car that you restored yourself.

Toyota also happens to be very good with parts support. I think they guarantee parts for 10 years past the date of production, but tend to produce enough to last a lot longer. I still buy OEM parts for my Supra, for instance.

Price out the body panels that need replacement first. Give Jay Marks Toyota (I think called Champion Toyota) in Texas a call. Those guys know the Supra and MR2.

Good luck. I really want an SW22.

EDIT: You mentioned that the 3VZ bolts in fairly easily. Didn't know that, but you might want to look into the 3S-GTE (stock turbo engine) since more of your factory electronics will work. The car itself is no slouch with the 5S-FE, though.

I have one. JDM 3SGTE, CT20B at 15psi with an EMS Powered MBC, fuel cut defender, Apexi intake, XS Power intercooler, Berk downpipe, Berk exhaust, Centerforce clutch, Suspension Techniques sways, twosrus endlinks, Koni Yellows...I also had an '86 MR2 for about 3 years. They can be a PITA to work on..but it's worth it. 😉

I can still get T-Top seals from Toyota...love it.

The 3VZ will bolt directly to the factory turbo tranny with no modification. One adapter bracket is required for the passenger side motor mount.

 

[JulesMaximus]

I'm surprised you don't have to swap ECU's when you swap transmissions. Seems to me that would be necessary.

 

[NutBucket]

It was made during the "golden age" of modern cars; separate ECUs for both the engine and trans. Luckily, most of the time the engine ECU functions regardless of whether the other is present. This is the way it worked for Hondas of the era anyway.

Take "golden age" however you like. I'm not claiming it to be my opinion.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
I'm surprised you don't have to swap ECU's when you swap transmissions. Seems to me that would be necessary.

Auto to manual, nope. Manual to auto, I would think so - but I don't recall anyone ever doing that.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: NutBucket
It was made during the "golden age" of modern cars; separate ECUs for both the engine and trans. Luckily, most of the time the engine ECU functions regardless of whether the other is present. This is the way it worked for Hondas of the era anyway.

Take "golden age" however you like. I'm not claiming it to be my opinion.

Interesting. I didn't know that.

I've read threads about people who've swapped auto for manual in my model year Maxima but apparently it's a huge PITA. Why anyone would go through that hassle for my car is beyond me quite frankly. At least the MR-2 is a pretty cool car, the one the OP is considering is a wreck though.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: NutBucket
It was made during the "golden age" of modern cars; separate ECUs for both the engine and trans. Luckily, most of the time the engine ECU functions regardless of whether the other is present. This is the way it worked for Hondas of the era anyway.

Take "golden age" however you like. I'm not claiming it to be my opinion.

Interesting. I didn't know that.

I've read threads about people who've swapped auto for manual in my model year Maxima but apparently it's a huge PITA. Why anyone would go through that hassle for my car is beyond me quite frankly. At least the MR-2 is a pretty cool car, the one the OP is considering is a wreck though.

The auto/manual swap for these is supposed to be easy- no cutting, drilling, modifying/etc is required. Everything bolts up like it would at the factory.

With a wash/wax, it might look a lot better. I'm not yet sure if that's rust or dirt on the door sills. The seller is going to call me sometime tonight- email said there's rust on the driver's door and on the rockers.

My car needs a new driver's door skin, rust repair on the rockers, and minor rust repair on the front fenders...but with a wash, claybar and wax- and a photo on her good side..she came out ok. 😛

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: JLee

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: NutBucket
It was made during the "golden age" of modern cars; separate ECUs for both the engine and trans. Luckily, most of the time the engine ECU functions regardless of whether the other is present. This is the way it worked for Hondas of the era anyway.

Take "golden age" however you like. I'm not claiming it to be my opinion.

Interesting. I didn't know that.

I've read threads about people who've swapped auto for manual in my model year Maxima but apparently it's a huge PITA. Why anyone would go through that hassle for my car is beyond me quite frankly. At least the MR-2 is a pretty cool car, the one the OP is considering is a wreck though.

The auto/manual swap for these is supposed to be easy- no cutting, drilling, modifying/etc is required. Everything bolts up like it would at the factory.

With a wash/wax, it might look a lot better. I'm not yet sure if that's rust or dirt on the door sills. The seller is going to call me sometime tonight- email said there's rust on the driver's door and on the rockers.

My car needs a new driver's door skin, rust repair on the rockers, and minor rust repair on the front fenders...but with a wash, claybar and wax- and a photo on her good side..she came out ok. 😛

That dash looks like a mess and it is missing quite a few parts and switches. You said it needs a tranny, how's the engine? Have you done a compression check?

 

[AdamK47]

Have you worked on model cars in the past? If so, what skill level?

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
That dash looks like a mess and it is missing quite a few parts and switches. You said it needs a tranny, how's the engine? Have you done a compression check?

I haven't seen the car yet. It has a lot of miles and burns about a quart of oil between changes. Timing belt, water pump and valve seals recently serviced. The health of the engine doesn't concern me a whole lot, as I doubt I'll be keeping it for too long anyway. I'd love to do a V6 swap (the free 3VZFE I mentioned in my other thread)..or I could always find one of the multitudes of turbo motors floating around and drop that in.

The dash is a mess- there is one big trim piece that fits over all of that. The empty plugs are for the hazard switch and cigarette lighter, both of which are still attached to the trim panel and are visible in photo #3, along with the center heater vents.

Other than the dash, the interior looks to be in better shape than mine..there aren't many pics of it, though..so who knows. I'll probably go look at it this weekend.

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: AdamK47
Have you worked on model cars in the past? If so, what skill level?

Model cars? No.

MR2s? Yes- my uncle and I did a head gasket in my old '86 MR2..I did a turbo gasket (entails basically pulling the whole back end off of the engine)and redid the suspension (that's still in progress) on mine ('91 Turbo).

 

[sjwaste]

Originally posted by: JLee

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
I'm surprised you don't have to swap ECU's when you swap transmissions. Seems to me that would be necessary.

Auto to manual, nope. Manual to auto, I would think so - but I don't recall anyone ever doing that.

Correct. Toyota used a separate Transmission ECU for its autos in those days. When you bought the AT, you generally picked up that piece too.

The real reason you have to switch ECUs for MT to AT, though, at least for that era, is that the Toyota ECU for the Auto retards timing when the AT ECU signals a shift. I don't know anyone swapping MT to AT on those cars, though, so who knows if its really needed.

I do know that in the Supra and MR2 of that time, you didn't need to swap the ECU if you went from the A340E AT to the W58 or R154 trans. I think the MR2-T used the W58, not sure what the NAs used.

The nice part is, you can swap to an R154 with a bellhousing swap. Many folks did it on the Supra when converting NA-T. That transmission is good to about 450 RWHP with a moderate clutch.

My Supra is an auto, and for some of the disadvantages, I do love that I don't lose boost between gears. The timing retard helps with that.

 

[sjwaste]

Originally posted by: JLee

I have one. JDM 3SGTE, CT20B at 15psi with an EMS Powered MBC, fuel cut defender, Apexi intake, XS Power intercooler, Berk downpipe, Berk exhaust, Centerforce clutch, Suspension Techniques sways, twosrus endlinks, Koni Yellows...I also had an '86 MR2 for about 3 years. They can be a PITA to work on..but it's worth it. 😉

I can still get T-Top seals from Toyota...love it.

The 3VZ will bolt directly to the factory turbo tranny with no modification. One adapter bracket is required for the passenger side motor mount.

Well shit, you know the car a whole lot better than I do 🙂

Look at it this way, then, if you pick up the NA, it can be a parts car for some items if you royally hose it.

Is the EMS MBC a 2 stage (bleeder and ball/spring)? Those work really well on the CT-26s that we run. Mine is stock, except with 3" pipes and high flow cats from the turbo back, which gives me ~9 PSI from the factory 6.

Are those Koni Yellows as hard to adjust as they say? You have to lift the car to adjust the valve, right? The ST sways are probably the best bang for the buck suspension upgrade there is, if you can keep the plastic endlinks in one piece. Better than switching to metal and ripping the tabs off the A-Arms though...

 

[jlee]

Originally posted by: sjwaste

Originally posted by: JLee

I have one. JDM 3SGTE, CT20B at 15psi with an EMS Powered MBC, fuel cut defender, Apexi intake, XS Power intercooler, Berk downpipe, Berk exhaust, Centerforce clutch, Suspension Techniques sways, twosrus endlinks, Koni Yellows...I also had an '86 MR2 for about 3 years. They can be a PITA to work on..but it's worth it. 😉

I can still get T-Top seals from Toyota...love it.

The 3VZ will bolt directly to the factory turbo tranny with no modification. One adapter bracket is required for the passenger side motor mount.

Well shit, you know the car a whole lot better than I do 🙂

Look at it this way, then, if you pick up the NA, it can be a parts car for some items if you royally hose it.

Is the EMS MBC a 2 stage (bleeder and ball/spring)? Those work really well on the CT-26s that we run. Mine is stock, except with 3" pipes and high flow cats from the turbo back, which gives me ~9 PSI from the factory 6.

Are those Koni Yellows as hard to adjust as they say? You have to lift the car to adjust the valve, right? The ST sways are probably the best bang for the buck suspension upgrade there is, if you can keep the plastic endlinks in one piece. Better than switching to metal and ripping the tabs off the A-Arms though...

The driver's side tab was torn and the endlink was snapped right off. Twosrus endlinks and some welded reinforcement should fix that. I'm waiting on reinforcement plates for the chassis mount- some people end up ripping the sways right out of the frame..I want to avoid that if at all possible!

I'm still waiting on new axle cages (lifetime warranty, good for 700hp+), so I haven't even driven on the Koni's yet..(I have two spring/strut assemblies ready to go back in, and two more awaiting reassembly- weather has sucked these past couple of days). I haven't heard that they're difficult to adjust, but I haven't tried either!

This is the MBC I have.

IIRC the NA manual trans is the S54 and the turbo manual trans is the E153. I could be wrong, though.

 

[exdeath]

Any monkey with a repair manual can use an ohm meter and a wrench to do engine or electrical work.

Body work is more an artwork that takes years and years of practice and a special eye/touch to perfect it.

I guess if you are replacing a body panel and having someone else repaint it, it's just simple wrenching, but if you're talking about sanding and working bare metal with a hammer and dolly, it takes years of practice.

 

[sjwaste]

Originally posted by: JLee

Originally posted by: sjwaste

Originally posted by: JLee

I have one. JDM 3SGTE, CT20B at 15psi with an EMS Powered MBC, fuel cut defender, Apexi intake, XS Power intercooler, Berk downpipe, Berk exhaust, Centerforce clutch, Suspension Techniques sways, twosrus endlinks, Koni Yellows...I also had an '86 MR2 for about 3 years. They can be a PITA to work on..but it's worth it. 😉

I can still get T-Top seals from Toyota...love it.

The 3VZ will bolt directly to the factory turbo tranny with no modification. One adapter bracket is required for the passenger side motor mount.

Well shit, you know the car a whole lot better than I do 🙂

Look at it this way, then, if you pick up the NA, it can be a parts car for some items if you royally hose it.

Is the EMS MBC a 2 stage (bleeder and ball/spring)? Those work really well on the CT-26s that we run. Mine is stock, except with 3" pipes and high flow cats from the turbo back, which gives me ~9 PSI from the factory 6.

Are those Koni Yellows as hard to adjust as they say? You have to lift the car to adjust the valve, right? The ST sways are probably the best bang for the buck suspension upgrade there is, if you can keep the plastic endlinks in one piece. Better than switching to metal and ripping the tabs off the A-Arms though...

The driver's side tab was torn and the endlink was snapped right off. Twosrus endlinks and some welded reinforcement should fix that. I'm waiting on reinforcement plates for the chassis mount- some people end up ripping the sways right out of the frame..I want to avoid that if at all possible!

I'm still waiting on new axle cages (lifetime warranty, good for 700hp+), so I haven't even driven on the Koni's yet..(I have two spring/strut assemblies ready to go back in, and two more awaiting reassembly- weather has sucked these past couple of days). I haven't heard that they're difficult to adjust, but I haven't tried either!

This is the MBC I have.

IIRC the NA manual trans is the S54 and the turbo manual trans is the E153. I could be wrong, though.

That's a pretty nice MBC. How well does it work, any spiking?

You're correct on the transmissions. For some reason, I thought the W58 was common to the NA Supra and Turbo MR2. I must be thinking of a different car.

The endlink mounts have always been a problem, so Toyota just designed the endlink itself to be the weak point. I know a lot of folks that ripped the tabs right off after they switched to metal. However, if you can weld, its not a big deal, as you can reinforce it.

Man, I'm starting to get the urge to get an MR2-T again.