Help! - diagnosing a refridgerator problem

[GasX]

I have a refridgerator that doesn't get particularly cold. More important though, is the fact that the freezer doesn't quite freeze things. It has been slowly getting worse. Over time, ice cream in the freezer has b een getting softer and softer. Today, my girlfriend pulled out some Ben & Jerrys and it was almost liquid.

Is the Fridge dying or is it possible that a simple repair would sove the problem.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

 

[PsychoAndy]

Sounds like a good 'ol refrigerant leak. R-22 isnt too expensive so I'm told.

-PAB

 

[rpc64]

I don't know a whole lot about refrigerators, but I think there's something in the back that can get clogged or dirty or whatever. We did this to our fridge: Take everything out of it and take it outside and unplug it so it can defrost. Then look at the back and there's some thing(can't remember what it is, my parents did it)and you pour some hot water down it to clean it out. Then plug it back in and it should work better(unless the problem is something else).

 

[olds]

If it isn't frost free, defrost it. If it is frost free, clean the coils or the defroster may be stuck/staying on too long. Could be a timer. You can advance it manually to check. Or it could be low on the freon as the psycho said.

 

[GasX]

Any idea how much it would cost to find and seal the leak and recharge the refridgerant?

And I will try cleaning the back too...

Good thing my GF and I just spent $200 on groceries... :|

 

[PsychoAndy]

Originally posted by: rpc64
I don't know a whole lot about refrigerators, but I think there's something in the back that can get clogged or dirty or whatever. We did this to our fridge: Take everything out of it and take it outside and unplug it so it can defrost. Then look at the back and there's some thing(can't remember what it is, my parents did it)and you pour some hot water down it to clean it out. Then plug it back in and it should work better(unless the problem is something else).

Something that can become "get clogged or dirty or whatever"? Dosent that effecively describe 99% of the durable goods in the U.S?

What he is referring to is the condensate drainage tube. Since the cooling coils get cold, they generate moisture due to the concept of humidity. I dont think a clogged condensate tube will hurt the compressor more than the condensation starting an electrical fire would.

-PAB

 

[olds]

Originally posted by: Mwilding
Any idea how much it would cost to find and seal the leak and recharge the refridgerant?

And I will try cleaning the back too...

Good thing my GF and I just spent $200 on groceries... :|

If that's it, your looking a $100 +

 

[PsychoAndy]

Originally posted by: Mwilding
Any idea how much it would cost to find and seal the leak and recharge the refridgerant?

And I will try cleaning the back too...

Good thing my GF and I just spent $200 on groceries... :|

It may not be tubing, it may be a leak in the compressor/accumulator. Thats gonna cost you, parts and labor wise.

-PAB

 

[Thegonagle]

Leaks are rare in a sealed system like this, unless you puncture a line somehow. The compressor could be on its way out though. That's major and generally not worth having fixed, unless it's under warranty. The thermostat could also be bad. This would fall into the minor category. How old is this thing anyway?

Pull it out and vacuum the coils on the back. Like others have said, this can make a big difference.

Is it frost-free or not? I second the other suggestions that it's time to defrost if the ice is more than an inch thick, or that the defrost cycle timer might be going if it's frost-free. These are minor issues that are worth fixing. Obviously, you can defrost the non-frost-free freezer yourself.

 

[GasX]

Hmmmm, my GF just told me that the fridge isn't really a problem (things are kept cool) but the freezer is definitely FUBAR. This further evidence of a refridgerant leak (i.e. not enough collant to get to freezing) or is it something else?

 

[Ornery]

Go ahead and try vacuuming the coils. That's standard maintenance. You don't have to unplug or defrost it for that. Speaking of defrosting, if the thing is that old, BUY A NEW ONE! It could pay for itself in energy savings in just a few years. The new ones are MUCH MORE efficient than they used to be.

 

[JC]

The problem with recharging the refrigerant (If indeed that is the problem) is that older fridges use R-12, not R-22. R-12 has been out of production and is expensive when you can find it.

I'd check/clean the condenser coils, another problem it could be is the defrost timer. If it's in defrost mode due to a bad timer, it would be warm. That's not too expensive a fix.

Failing all this, a new refer is prolly your best bet....at least the new ones use quite a bit less electricity, will save you quite a bit of money over time.

JC

 

[Ornery]

Energy Efficient Refrigerators

• "The energy bill for a typical new refrigerator with automatic defrost and top-mounted freezer will be about $55/year, whereas a typical model sold in 1973 will cost nearly $160/year. Most of the energy used by a refrigerator is used to pump heat out of the cabinet. A small amount is used to keep the cabinet from sweating, to defrost the refrigerator, and to illuminate the interior.
  
  Although many energy-efficient products may be more expensive to purchase, they will cost less to operate over the lifetime of the appliance. For example, a more expensive model could pay for itself in a little over three years. Over the 15-year lifetime, the more expensive refrigerator might save $750!"

Edit: Sears Kenmore White, 18.2 cu. ft. Top Freezer with Factory Installed Ice Maker is:

• $499.99
  Regular: $599.99
  You Save: $100.00
  Sale Ends 09/07/02
  Sears Item #04671882000

Just in case you can't get that puppy going 😉

 

[olds]

Originally posted by: Mwilding
Hmmmm, my GF just told me that the fridge isn't really a problem (things are kept cool) but the freezer is definitely FUBAR. This further evidence of a refridgerant leak (i.e. not enough collant to get to freezing) or is it something else?

That sounds like the defrost heater. My bet is that the timer is bad.

 

[GasX]

:Q

OMG - the dust bunnies under that thing are bigger than some dumps I've taken...

Hopefully the vacuum job will help A LOT!!!

 

[Evadman]

Make sure the condencer coins are clear. Those are the cols on the back or bottom of the fridge.

Then, I would defrost the fridge when you run out of food. Just turn it off overnight and leave the doors open.

If it is still bad then it could be either the pump ( very unlikely, they last like 40 years ) or low refigerant. r-22 is cheaper than dirt but having someone put it in is not. If the defrosting and cleaning do not work, have the system recharged.

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: oldsmoboat

Originally posted by: Mwilding
Hmmmm, my GF just told me that the fridge isn't really a problem (things are kept cool) but the freezer is definitely FUBAR. This further evidence of a refridgerant leak (i.e. not enough collant to get to freezing) or is it something else?

That sounds like the defrost heater. My bet is that the timer is bad.

I have to go with that too. Defrost the sucker if it is just the freezer.

 

[GasX]

Why should I defrost? It's a frost free machine...

 

[PsychoAndy]

Originally posted by: Mwilding
Why should I defrost? It's a frost free machine...

Ok, I think we have reached a breakthrough now.

-PAB

EDIT: Wait. If its frost free I think that means theres still a defrost heater. My bad.

 

[Thegonagle]

How's the air flow in the freezer? Maybe it's not self-defrosting and the air flow is being blocked by accumulated frost. I'm kind of reaching, I've never taken a frost free apart, but it seems plausible.

 

[GasX]

Why does everyone think there is frost? There is NO frost!!!!

The ice trays have made ice, but the meat we put in their last night is still soft...

 

The problem with recharging the refrigerant (If indeed that is the problem) is that older fridges use R-12, not R-22. R-12 has been out of production and is expensive when you can find it.

Incorrect sir,all household refrigeration systems contain R22.
Only older vehicles contain R12.
Why ?
R12 is more efficient at cooling a space rapidly than keeping it cool over a period of time.
R22 is more efficient at keeping a space cool than it is cooling it quickly.

It is unlikely that you have a loss of refrigerant,it is more likely that your thermostat is malfunctioning.

Read this,It might help you to understand what is wrong.

Good Luck

 

[Ornery]

I'm not sure, but I think these things "regulate" temperature between the freezer and refrigerator compartments using adjustable ports. When you twist the port open, it allows more cold air to drop in to the refrigerator compartment from the freezer. You might want to try turning both dials back to default, or centered positions and see where the temperature levels out over night.

 

[olds]

There could be frost that you are not seeing. If the defrost heater is not working, the coils are covered in ice and are not working correctly. The defrost heater is most likely behind a removable panel inside the rear of the freezer. If the timer is bad it could be stuck in defrost mode and the heater in the freezer is staying on. It could also be stuck in the normal mode, not allowing the the heater to come on and causing ice to form on the coils. The defrost heater itself may also be bad.
Ornery is also correct about the port. It is usually located low in the refrigerator section.

 

[PsychoAndy]

Originally posted by: Roger

The problem with recharging the refrigerant (If indeed that is the problem) is that older fridges use R-12, not R-22. R-12 has been out of production and is expensive when you can find it.

Incorrect sir,all household refrigeration systems contain R22.
Only older vehicles contain R12.
Why ?
R12 is more efficient at cooling a space rapidly than keeping it cool over a period of time.
R22 is more efficient at keeping a space cool than it is cooling it quickly.

It is unlikely that you have a loss of refrigerant,it is more likely that your thermostat is malfunctioning.

Read this,It might help you to understand what is wrong.

Good Luck

IIRC, R-22 is used in residential and commercial air conditioning as well.

-PAB