ino uno soweno
Senior member
My line of thought on why some headlight restoration kits work and others do not, is about so many variables in sanding methods and chemicals combinations that most in-experienced or first timers DIY are not aware of,
I suggest it only logical that the in-experienced DIY, has little knowledge of how to see exactly what and where oxidization actually looks like on a polished surface, to be able to remove it, ?.
As well as cheap poor quality clear coating products,
Variable in sanding methods,
One Sanding method instructions, which are miss leading to the in-experienced, they instruct to just rub evenly until the surface is uniformly evenly sanded with p600 and spray with a Urethane coating, but, if there is heavier small areas of oxidization then thought, (because oxidization is not visible to the human eye under a p600 scratches), you are just clear coating a crystal clear coating over un-removed oxidization, which does not look right, from a few angles, in different light sources, other angles it looks ok,
Another sanding method is to work through many grads of sand paper, working the whole surface of the lens, hoping that the oxidization is only minimal, then buffing with a liquid that is first abrasive, and a cleaner, with a scratch filler wax, ? That looks ok for different periods,
Please note, clear coating over scratches is as light and colour confusing and defusing as clear coating on top of mild oxidization , they just do not look right,
Most sanding /buffing methods do not concentrate on finding existing oxidization and removing all oxidation and pitting before applying any clear coating,
So, I suggest Option 1, remove all oxidization by sanding and buffing, before and without applying any scratch filling cleaning wax or polymer, supplied in any kit, and only use sand paper and water soluble abrasive buffing compounds to polish the lens to first make the oxidization visible,
Following pic, one, is a Subaru,
showing med surface oxidization , I was asked to clear the lenses, in a few minutes, so I just spent 60 secs heavy buffing with a regular buff compound paste, by doing this first and quickly, all oxidization on the surface is made visible, if the surface is polished first,
All pitting and scratches are quickly located, and accessed for depth, and general area where sanding will be required for removal, even marked with a pen,
Second pic shows a clear, but greasy slightly diffused visual affect in the picture, but closer inspection shows small areas of med and light oxidization pitting, not visible in the picture,
Third picture shows Ford Fiesta, this lens looks fairly clear from the front,
Fourth picture shows another angle of same lens, also appearing to be fairly clear,
Fifth picture shows lower section of the lens looking through the lens shows a frosted appearance, this is a combination of slight oxidization and unfinished sanding and no buffing, ,
I suggest these pictures show that the lens must be examined from as many angles as possible; to ensure all oxidization or over sanding is visually located, for removal by more sanding, , then rebuffing, for the best result, crystal or new clear,
back soon,
I suggest it only logical that the in-experienced DIY, has little knowledge of how to see exactly what and where oxidization actually looks like on a polished surface, to be able to remove it, ?.
As well as cheap poor quality clear coating products,
Variable in sanding methods,
One Sanding method instructions, which are miss leading to the in-experienced, they instruct to just rub evenly until the surface is uniformly evenly sanded with p600 and spray with a Urethane coating, but, if there is heavier small areas of oxidization then thought, (because oxidization is not visible to the human eye under a p600 scratches), you are just clear coating a crystal clear coating over un-removed oxidization, which does not look right, from a few angles, in different light sources, other angles it looks ok,
Another sanding method is to work through many grads of sand paper, working the whole surface of the lens, hoping that the oxidization is only minimal, then buffing with a liquid that is first abrasive, and a cleaner, with a scratch filler wax, ? That looks ok for different periods,
Please note, clear coating over scratches is as light and colour confusing and defusing as clear coating on top of mild oxidization , they just do not look right,
Most sanding /buffing methods do not concentrate on finding existing oxidization and removing all oxidation and pitting before applying any clear coating,
So, I suggest Option 1, remove all oxidization by sanding and buffing, before and without applying any scratch filling cleaning wax or polymer, supplied in any kit, and only use sand paper and water soluble abrasive buffing compounds to polish the lens to first make the oxidization visible,
Following pic, one, is a Subaru,
showing med surface oxidization , I was asked to clear the lenses, in a few minutes, so I just spent 60 secs heavy buffing with a regular buff compound paste, by doing this first and quickly, all oxidization on the surface is made visible, if the surface is polished first,
All pitting and scratches are quickly located, and accessed for depth, and general area where sanding will be required for removal, even marked with a pen,
Second pic shows a clear, but greasy slightly diffused visual affect in the picture, but closer inspection shows small areas of med and light oxidization pitting, not visible in the picture,
Third picture shows Ford Fiesta, this lens looks fairly clear from the front,
Fourth picture shows another angle of same lens, also appearing to be fairly clear,
Fifth picture shows lower section of the lens looking through the lens shows a frosted appearance, this is a combination of slight oxidization and unfinished sanding and no buffing, ,
I suggest these pictures show that the lens must be examined from as many angles as possible; to ensure all oxidization or over sanding is visually located, for removal by more sanding, , then rebuffing, for the best result, crystal or new clear,
back soon,
