Headlight restore kits

[ino uno soweno]

I'll make this as simple as possible for you ino.

These are how common plastics react to UV light: http://www.cityplastics.com.au/uv_resistance.html

Headlight lenses are polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is not UV stable and will yellow and/or oxidize in about a year. Obviously this time depends on local conditions.

Clear coats are acrylic or urethane. Urethane (or polyurethane) clear coats or paints typically contain acrylic. Acrylic is 'one of the most inherently UV resistant materials available' on top of being one of the most optically transparent plastics available.

Would you prefer to have plain polycarbonate plastic completely exposed? Or would you rather have the polycarbonate covered by a protective layer of acrylic?

[FONT=&quot]J, my apologies , I am just really flu sick, back as soon as possible,[/FONT]

 

[ino uno soweno]

my 2007 civic (bought late 2006) has plastic covers, and they're still perfectly clear

[FONT=&quot]That is 6-7 years, [/FONT][FONT=&quot], 🙂

Perhaps we can assume there might be some oxidization that is invisible to the human eye, ??.

We also could assume you take good care of your car, or whether you intentionally or not intentionally you have good under cover parking, ??. last 6-7 years,

Defiantly sounds like you do not live in the desert,

Perfectly clear, ??, perhaps you could keep them perfectly clear for another 6-7 years, and the next 6-7 years, if you could just give them a quick light polish, no sand paper , only the finest plastic buff compound, just tomake them "sparkle " and remove the invisible stuck on road grim,[/FONT]



Only take 5 mins each light, any purpose plastic head light polishing compound would do,

Thanks for your post,

 

[JCH13]

Here is some more reading while you're still 'sick with the flu:'

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forum...adlight-restoration-will-the-yellow-come-back

 

[ino uno soweno]

Here is some more reading while you're still 'sick with the flu:'

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forum...adlight-restoration-will-the-yellow-come-back

Pretty much what is written here on the previouse pages, no real solution,

Whats ya point, please,

 

[JCH13]

Pretty much what is written here on the previouse pages, no real solution,

Whats ya point, please,

My point, as I have made over and over, is that clear-coating light housings is a good long-term solution that requires little maintenance.

 

[Scarpozzi]

I read somewhere that you can use toothpaste instead of buying the $10/bottle headlight polish they sell. I'd say baking soda and water could clean it as well if you don't want to buy the pastes or gels they sell.

 

[JCH13]

I read somewhere that you can use toothpaste instead of buying the $10/bottle headlight polish they sell. I'd say baking soda and water could clean it as well if you don't want to buy the pastes or gels they sell.

Toothpaste has polishing compounds in it, does baking soda?

 

[ino uno soweno]

I read somewhere that you can use toothpaste instead of buying the $10/bottle headlight polish they sell. I'd say baking soda and water could clean it as well if you don't want to buy the pastes or gels they sell.

Toothpaste is great for glass,

But the grade of most toothpaste compounds are too course and just dulls a plastic surface,

$10 for a bottle of h/l polish, you would need 2-3 tubes of tooth to get same volume as the bottle, 3x $6 =$18,

I use about 1/5 of a bottle, 3/4 fliud oz, $2,00 for 2 head lights,

I do not know about baking soda,

 

[ino uno soweno]

Hey JCH13

U said,

What I do know is this: polishing headlight housings and not clear-coating them is analogous to sanding down and polishing rusty steel without painting it afterwards. Sure, you got rid of all of the oxidation, but it's going to start oxidizing immediately and the

""""oxidation will be completely unhindered """.


I just want to get what you said straight,
What you know is if I sand and polish, a headlight, and a bit of rusty metal, and place them outside in the car par, in the weather, they will oxidize at a analogous (similar, alike, like, comparable, akin.) rate.


Do you want me to do pictures to show what you know,,?? here, were I am, clean bar rio steel is light brown oxidization with over night rain, and dark brown fully oxidized surface in 4 days, ( with rain on 3 day, )


So you are saying plastic will oxidize at that similar, alike, like, comparable, akin rate, ?? and turn brown or frosted ??. in 3 days,

 

[JCH13]

Hey JCH13

U said,

What I do know is this: polishing headlight housings and not clear-coating them is analogous to sanding down and polishing rusty steel without painting it afterwards. Sure, you got rid of all of the oxidation, but it's going to start oxidizing immediately and the

""""oxidation will be completely unhindered """.


I just want to get what you said straight,
What you know is if I sand and polish, a headlight, and a bit of rusty metal, and place them outside in the car par, in the weather, they will oxidize at a analogous (similar, alike, like, comparable, akin.) rate.


Do you want me to do pictures to show what you know,,?? here, were I am, clean bar rio steel is light brown oxidization with over night rain, and dark brown fully oxidized surface in 4 days, ( with rain on 3 day, )


So you are saying plastic will oxidize at that similar, alike, like, comparable, akin rate, ?? and turn brown or frosted ??. in 3 days,

I am NOT saying that IN ANY WAY. You are insane to even think that's what I meant.

I never said they would oxidize at similar rates, ever.

My analogy is that both materials have no significant protection against corrosion/oxidation.

Yes, one can polish/wax bare headlights every month or two and keep them clear, just like one could polish steel every few days to keep is shiny. Wouldn't you rather cover it with a protective layer that can go years between services?

 

[ino uno soweno]

I am NOT saying that IN ANY WAY. You are insane to even think that's what I meant.

I never said they would oxidize at similar rates, ever.

My analogy is that both materials have no significant protection against corrosion/oxidation.

Yes, one can polish/wax bare headlights every month or two and keep them clear, just like one could polish steel every few days to keep is shiny. Wouldn't you rather cover it with a protective layer that can go years between services?

I looked up what you said in the dictionary,
Origin:
1640&#8211;50; < Latin analogus < Greek análogos proportionate, equivalent to ana- ana- + lóg ( os ) ratio + -os adj. suffix; see -ous
[FONT=&quot] RATIO = RATE, [/FONT]Please do not argue with me, consult a dictionary,[FONT=&quot]. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] You said.[/FONT]

I am insane,

Just another of so many anti-social narcissistic traits anyone can read and see throughout your posts, , indicating to me that the only reason you post in response to me is to force me to submit to your will, and do what you say, $10 spray can,
That is a very closed minded attitude,


Condescending, patronizingly superior attitude: 'I am just stating the facts, and thinking about the ladies that are also reading this, remember you are the one continually making these anti-social narcissistic comments, not me,
If anyone has a condescending superior attitude it is you.


If anyone else agrees that they feel I have a condescending superior attitude please except my deepest and most sincere apology,


The truth is I am getting old,


Old age and the tiny amount of wisdom I hope I do have, tells me I cannot take my 17 year secrets with me, so I am in a mad &#8220; STUMBLING &#8220; hurry to share with you all, before it is too late.
Along with my poor computer skills, total lack of formal education, lead me to here where I &#8220;do not read&#8221; about the things that I know work for me, and have worked for 17 years, with pictures,
So, please take no notice of the &#8220;way&#8221; I say my stuff, just please, take note of the information and pictures for your own consideration and benefit, and I truly hope you will find more time with your family, or playing Lego&#8217;s, not waxing and sanding down every few months,


Please consider this, my experience for the last 17 years is often when I approach where I parked my car in the shopping centre, and look to see if someone has pinched it, ( just once,1996, they did ) when I see the car is there, I am again reminded and amazed that it may be dirty, but what a shine, headlights and all,


( please note the white Caldina GTT in my pictures, new to me 07 and first application, next application 3 months as per specs, next nu-finish application 09, and 3 months later as per specs, pictures above are 2013, and the shine under the dirt is still mirror finish as all can see),


I do not have wax days ever, never ever, kill me first, after a few years I re-apply, because I imagining I am removing a microscopic &#8220; almost invisible polymer oxidization &#8221;,


And I have applied nu-finish to white, royal blue, inca gold, different white, dark blue, light blue, RED, that I owned over 17 years, and lots of others,


Apply it the correct way, and it works, God is my witness,

​

My point, as I have made over and over, is that clear-coating light housings is a good long-term solution that requires little maintenance.

Ok, ok, ok,

I HEAR YOU OVER AND OVER .
​

let&#8217;s talk about your idea.,
​

[FONT=&quot]My 1st concern with your recommendation, 400-600 sand, $10 Urethane/ Acrylic spray can, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] I know from much of my own experience, that if I sand A OR MANY headlights with varying degree and depth of oxidization, with 400-600, there is no way in the world I will be able to see if I have sanded away, all the existing oxidation on any of those headlights, my experience and my observations show me that there is always more oxidization on the drivers headlight, and can be deeper in patches, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
What I know to be fact is when I sand a headlight, I quickly buff it so I can see if all the oxidization is removed, Quick buffs 3-4 times, every headlight has different grade of oxidization, and also always has a few patches or areas where the oxidization is deeper ( a few inches square of surface area, or smaller, or bigger, ), and because it only takes a few drops of 3M med grade buffing compound on each head light, and a few minutes to buff both headlights, it is easy to see where I have to sand further, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{Please note, in proof reading this before posting it occurs to me that a new guy who is about to do his first polish, may be interested in a point, I would like to make clear, when I sand a headlight, I usually quick buff, and look for the deepest oxidization, as well as the general light oxidization &#8220; pitting &#8220; over the hole surface of the lense, I first sand those deep oxidized patches and or areas with p240 grade sanding pad or paper, then change 600 and perhaps sand another %50 of the total surface area, then to 1200 to sand to %75 area, then 1500 to sand the whole lense, then 2000 which gives the surface enough gloss or shine that I can see if I have missed a bit, then buff, which sometimes shows other bits I have missed, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The reason why I mention this is to get a clear definition for the new guy between my method as above, and some of the head light restoration kits that are available, where the instructions maintain that a layer of plastic is methodically sanded over the entire surface of the lens, for each grade of sanding paper or sponge, [/FONT]removing 5-6 layers of plastic in total.
[FONT=&quot]
My point is the method I use is &#8220; much faster &#8220;, and does not remove good clean clear plastic that does need to be removed, }}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] (We are talking sanding 1/4 thickness of a A4 paper, ) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
So, I know if I just give a headlight a good sand all over almost any oxidized head light surface with 400-600 and spray a $10 can of Urethane on it, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
There will be several patches of oxidized plastic trapped under the clear coat, that I could not possible see, causing it look faded in patches, the only way to remove those patches is to first sand off the Urethane or Acrylic I just painted on, then sand the oxidized patches, and buy another $10 can, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
I could not nor can anyone see any form of oxidizatio,n when you or anyone else sand with 400-600, ( lucky your head lights are hidden), [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
OK, I can do my method to remove all oxidization, and polish the lens crystal clear, then I can sand with 400-600 and spray a $10 can of clear, or not, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
Then, I, just like the other guys who started this thread, would be asking for help to fix 3-6 months, what you insisted on me doing,??[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
Only, I would be adding the Argument that I personally do not trust Urethane or Acrylic because I just removed a clear coat coating from the above Celica GT4, my observation was, the body, roof, rear quarters, doors, hatch lid showed light Urethane clear coat flaking caused by link coat failure, , But please note, the bonnet showed overall and complete flaking, I know that was caused by. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
1, there was no heat soak material at all between the motor and the bonnet skin, [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
2, the Celica GT4 engine is well worked, and usually run hot and hard, producing far more heat than Urethane link coat can handle, Obliviously shown in the pics, the urethane was effected by heat, please note the bonnet picture,[/FONT]

The term "urethane" is somewhat of a misnomer when used to describe a paintable protective coating. Urethane, also known as ethyl carbamte, is an organic chemical that occurs naturally in fermenting alcoholic beverages and was first produced artificially in the nineteenth century for medicinal purposes. Researchers discovered that stringing together chains of urethane molecules by a polymerization process produces a stiff, hard compound that has many industrial applications. Clear finishes for wood and metal often contain this compound, which is more properly known as polyurethane. The different types of this clear finish depend primarily on the solvent in which the polyurethane is dissolved &#8212; typically water- or oil-based substrate &#8212; and the process by which the finish cures, or hardens.

Or any other clear coat protective coating that fails after 3-6 months,

My experience in restoring many / many sets of headlights, AND ONLY USING a polymer ( nu-finish ) that I have used for 17years works, which I believe cures harder than other clear coating I have experienced,

My line of thought is a Zinc based cross linked Polymer is not adversely effected , &#8220;and in fact &#8220;, enhanced by passing light and heat , concentrated, and focused by the reflective design of the &#8220; inside&#8221; of any modern plastic headlight,

BY THE head light &#8220;bulb&#8221;,

That bulb in my situation is or has been high watt &#8220; halogen &#8220;, new guys please note, EVEN WILKI has a &#8220;danger &#8220; warning not to fit a halogen bulb in plastic headlight s that are not approved, for halogen bulbs because they get very HOT,,
[FONT=&quot]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen_lamp[/FONT]

Halogen lamps get hotter than regular incandescent lamps because the heat is concentrated on a smaller envelope surface, and because the surface is closer to the filament. This high temperature is essential to their operation. Because the halogen lamp operates at very high temperatures, it can pose fire and burn hazards

So it is hot, I think more heat cures a polymer /zinc clear coat to a very hard and strong coating, where increased heat and light photons needed for good lighting,

Incandescent photons are the low and less destructive photon / range of the Ultraviolet Radiation Spectrum,

Which basically COOKS, AND DELAMINATES Urethane or others into MORE OF a soft CRUMBLY biscuit crust, or flake , from my observations, ,
When I can get some pictures together of headlight restorations together, I will refer to your misinformed calculations as misinformed, because my experience over the last 17 years,

YOU SAID,

Wouldn't you rather cover it with a protective layer that can go years between services?
For many years I have used this method that does last for years, and this method focuses on a very quick/FAST/ SIMPLE and easy DIY SERVICE, ( NO REMOVING OLD URETHANE, ) catered for the novice through to the wrench, no compressor, no spray gun or spray tin, If I spend any longer than 4-5 mins on EACH service, the headlight owner must be a pretty female, or there is damage to repair, ?. maybe every few years or longer,

 

[JCH13]

First off, here are dictionary definitions of the word Analogy:

a·nal·o·gy
/&#601;&#712;nal&#601;j&#275;/
Noun
A comparison between two things, typically on the basis of their structure and for the purpose of explanation or clarification.
A correspondence or partial similarity.
Synonyms
similarity - resemblance - likeness - parity - parallel

a·nal·o·gy (-nl-j)
n. pl. a·nal·o·gies
1.
a. Similarity in some respects between things that are otherwise dissimilar.
b. A comparison based on such similarity. See Synonyms at likeness.

analogy [&#601;&#712;næl&#601;d&#658;&#618;]
n pl -gies
1. agreement or similarity, esp in a certain limited number of features or details
2. a comparison made to show such a similarity to draw an analogy between an atom and the solar system

I have consulted multiple dictionaries and this is what I found. I am not arguing with you, I am simply showing you the definition of the word in the English language.

You make one interesting point that I hadn't considered: sanding down with 400-600grit obfuscates any remaining oxidation. I have not had a problem with this, ever, nor have I ever read of it being a problem, ever, but I can see how it might be an issue. That is a good observation.

Nu-Finish might work very well for you, I can't argue with your personal experiences.

You make references to numerous pieces of equipment that you perceive will be needed to clear-coat headlights (compressor, spray gun, spray tin). These pieces of equipment are not needed at all. The materials list is: sandpaper in whatever grits make you happiest, water, paper or plastic, painters tape, and a shaker-can of clear-coat. Nothing a DIY'er can't buy at numerous stores for a low cost.

You make a thinly-veiled jab at the fact that my Miata's pop-up headlights can't be seen and imply that I am lucky that no one can see my (presumably oxidized) headlight lenses. Well, 1990-1997 Miatas use an all-glass sealed beam headlight, so there is no plastic surface to oxidize. The relevant parts of those pictures were my clear-coated tailights and the clear-coated paint job.

Your personal distrust of clear-coats comes from your experience with a Celica GT4. A car that is now (at least) 13-14 years old. Well, yeah, if it was not maintained meticulously of course the clear-coat would be failing after more than a decade. Your conclusion that heat is the culprit is erroneous. Why is engine heat to blame? Could it be that the hood is exposed to the most sunlight and mechanical deformation and that is why it's clear coat is failing? How would heat be causing the roof, doors, and quarter panels to have failing clear coat also? (I can't see any of the pictures to which you are referring, BTW)

By the way, my Miata has a turbocharger a few inches away from the hood, with absolutely no insulation between the turbocharger / exhaust manifold and the hood. I routinely find it to be glowing red (and a few times orange) after hard driving. No visible damage to the clear coat despite it's severe service environment. That is WAY more heat (orders of magnitude more) than any headlight bulb (halogen or otherwise) can output. Why hasn't the clear coat degraded on my hood?

You do make a few good points, but you also make some very bad assumptions and come to some very strange conclusions based on seemingly poor logic. In the future I would appreciate it if you would try to explain WHY you think my suggestions are incomplete, flawed, or just bad, before you resort to name-calling, personal insults, and derisive comments. Such things make it difficult to accept any positive advice from you. I am a reasonable guy, and I will listen to a reasoned argument; but I will not abide personal prejudices, blind-faith advice, or conclusions based on faulty logic.

 

[ino uno soweno]

First off, here are dictionary definitions of the word Analogy:

a·nal·o·gy
/&#601;&#712;nal&#601;j&#275;/
Noun
A comparison between two things, typically on the basis of their structure and for the purpose of explanation or clarification.
A correspondence or partial similarity.
Synonyms
similarity - resemblance - likeness - parity - parallel

a·nal·o·gy (-nl-j)
n. pl. a·nal·o·gies
1.
a. Similarity in some respects between things that are otherwise dissimilar.
b. A comparison based on such similarity. See Synonyms at likeness.

analogy [&#601;&#712;næl&#601;d&#658;&#618;]
n pl -gies
1. agreement or similarity, esp in a certain limited number of features or details
2. a comparison made to show such a similarity to draw an analogy between an atom and the solar system

I have consulted multiple dictionaries and this is what I found. I am not arguing with you, I am simply showing you the definition of the word in the English language.

You make one interesting point that I hadn't considered: sanding down with 400-600grit obfuscates any remaining oxidation. I have not had a problem with this, ever, nor have I ever read of it being a problem, ever, but I can see how it might be an issue. That is a good observation.

Nu-Finish might work very well for you, I can't argue with your personal experiences.

You make references to numerous pieces of equipment that you perceive will be needed to clear-coat headlights (compressor, spray gun, spray tin). These pieces of equipment are not needed at all. The materials list is: sandpaper in whatever grits make you happiest, water, paper or plastic, painters tape, and a shaker-can of clear-coat. Nothing a DIY'er can't buy at numerous stores for a low cost.

You make a thinly-veiled jab at the fact that my Miata's pop-up headlights can't be seen and imply that I am lucky that no one can see my (presumably oxidized) headlight lenses. Well, 1990-1997 Miatas use an all-glass sealed beam headlight, so there is no plastic surface to oxidize. The relevant parts of those pictures were my clear-coated tailights and the clear-coated paint job.

Your personal distrust of clear-coats comes from your experience with a Celica GT4. A car that is now (at least) 13-14 years old. Well, yeah, if it was not maintained meticulously of course the clear-coat would be failing after more than a decade. Your conclusion that heat is the culprit is erroneous. Why is engine heat to blame? Could it be that the hood is exposed to the most sunlight and mechanical deformation and that is why it's clear coat is failing? How would heat be causing the roof, doors, and quarter panels to have failing clear coat also? (I can't see any of the pictures to which you are referring, BTW)

By the way, my Miata has a turbocharger a few inches away from the hood, with absolutely no insulation between the turbocharger / exhaust manifold and the hood. I routinely find it to be glowing red (and a few times orange) after hard driving. No visible damage to the clear coat despite it's severe service environment. That is WAY more heat (orders of magnitude more) than any headlight bulb (halogen or otherwise) can output. Why hasn't the clear coat degraded on my hood?

You do make a few good points, but you also make some very bad assumptions and come to some very strange conclusions based on seemingly poor logic. In the future I would appreciate it if you would try to explain WHY you think my suggestions are incomplete, flawed, or just bad, before you resort to name-calling, personal insults, and derisive comments. Such things make it difficult to accept any positive advice from you. I am a reasonable guy, and I will listen to a reasoned argument; but I will not abide personal prejudices, blind-faith advice, or conclusions based on faulty logic.

but you also make some very bad assumptions and come to some very strange conclusions based on seemingly poor logic.


Please explain,and please be specific, " very bad assmption" and " very strange conclusions" and "based on seemingly poor logic.?????????, in complete details please,

 

[JCH13]

You find clear coat breaking down on multiple surfaces on a Celica GT4. You come to the conclusion that heat from the engine is causing it to break down and flake off. However, there is clear coat failing on multiple surfaces, most of which are not exposed to engine heat. Why did you then conclude that heat is causing the clear coat to degrade?

 

[ino uno soweno]

You find clear coat breaking down on multiple surfaces on a Celica GT4. You come to the conclusion that heat from the engine is causing it to break down and flake off. However, there is clear coat failing on multiple surfaces, most of which are not exposed to engine heat. Why did you then conclude that heat is causing the clear coat to degrade?

Is that all, ??.

but you also make some very bad assumptions and come to some very strange conclusions based on seemingly poor logic.

Do I do that on any other subjects, ??

 

[ino uno soweno]

Is that all, ??.

but you also make some very bad assumptions and come to some very strange conclusions based on seemingly poor logic.

Do I do that on any other subjects, ??

:whiste:

 

[JCH13]

I don't think there is anything else to discuss on the matter. Buffing lasts on a scale of months to a year and clear-coating works on a scale of multiple years. There are pluses and minuses to each, and one can't go into either repair willy-nilly and expect professional results. Is there anything else you'd like to add?

 

[Black2na]

:whiste:

ok seriously? your being an Asshole here. Now i'm not one to dip my tow in the damn drama pool, i usually let you folks hash it out. but this is getting retarded JCH never said your way doesn't work or that it isnt effective. it is i know because i have done it the same way you do it. then again i use professional products not retail shelf stuff. and achieve great results. im gonna make this big so i make sure you get it. YOUR WAY WORKS but that being said it has its upkeep and you've said so yourself

( please note the white Caldina GTT in my pictures, new to me 07 and first application, next application 3 months as per specs, next nu-finish application 09, and 3 months later as per specs, pictures above are 2013, and the shine under the dirt is still mirror finish as all can see)

In your thread there is even someone who proves thats it an effective method with upkeep

ino,uno,soweno....

Here's a close-up of the Camry's lights....they're okay for being 8yrs old....I do wax/polish them once a month...at least...whenever I have to "wax-off" bird droppings....They're standard halogens, and since I don't do much night driving they're okay even if they're not HIDs

Now that we have determined that you are correct and what my main issue with you is the COMPLETE lack of even acknowledging there is a BETTER less maintenance intensive way. my 11 years as a painter and auto body tech have told be much like your repeated 17 years doing what you do. have taught me that clear coating is a much better longer term solution if you are of 80% of the population that doesn't take the time very month or 2 to give a light wax to your failing headlights.

perfect example my 02 MR2 spyder had yellow headlights when i bought it. took them off and clearcoated them back in late 08. to this day still look like the day i cleared them. and this is the first year that car as had a garage to live in.
Next my mother in laws 2003 honda accord. cleared those in the fall of 09 after a failed upkeep after buffing and polishing (she didnt wax them regularly). and again clear still works and looks like the day i did it.
01 mazda MPV musican friend of mine couldnt afford to clear them so i polished them with the understanding he would have to wax his lights. failed to do so and paid me WAYYYY back in 07 to clear them. still has van lights still look great.

So your arguement of the fact that the clear wont hold up and will flake is wrong. clear is very different then it was in the waterborn days of the early and mid 90's it is much stronger now.

Only problem i have had with this whole damn pissing match is your complete and utter lack of humility. You couldn't be wrong about this in your mind when you so clearly were. its ok to be wrong. i am frequently but that's ok i learn and move on from it. this is the only post on this you will see ive said my peace and im done have a great day.

 

[7window]

ok seriously? your being an Asshole here. Now i'm not one to dip my tow in the damn drama pool, i usually let you folks hash it out. but this is getting retarded JCH never said your way doesn't work or that it isnt effective. it is i know because i have done it the same way you do it. then again i use professional products not retail shelf stuff. and achieve great results. im gonna make this big so i make sure you get it. YOUR WAY WORKS but that being said it has its upkeep and you've said so yourself In your thread there is even someone who proves thats it an effective method with upkeep


Now that we have determined that you are correct and what my main issue with you is the COMPLETE lack of even acknowledging there is a BETTER less maintenance intensive way. my 11 years as a painter and auto body tech have told be much like your repeated 17 years doing what you do. have taught me that clear coating is a much better longer term solution if you are of 80% of the population that doesn't take the time very month or 2 to give a light wax to your failing headlights.

perfect example my 02 MR2 spyder had yellow headlights when i bought it. took them off and clearcoated them back in late 08. to this day still look like the day i cleared them. and this is the first year that car as had a garage to live in.
Next my mother in laws 2003 honda accord. cleared those in the fall of 09 after a failed upkeep after buffing and polishing (she didnt wax them regularly). and again clear still works and looks like the day i did it.
01 mazda MPV musican friend of mine couldnt afford to clear them so i polished them with the understanding he would have to wax his lights. failed to do so and paid me WAYYYY back in 07 to clear them. still has van lights still look great.

So your arguement of the fact that the clear wont hold up and will flake is wrong. clear is very different then it was in the waterborn days of the early and mid 90's it is much stronger now.

Only problem i have had with this whole damn pissing match is your complete and utter lack of humility. You couldn't be wrong about this in your mind when you so clearly were. its ok to be wrong. i am frequently but that's ok i learn and move on from it. this is the only post on this you will see ive said my peace and im done have a great day.

Which clear coat do you recommend to use?

 

[Black2na]

for someone who wants it in a aerosol can
http://www.hbbody.com/prod8/prod62_large.htm
best shine of any aerosol clear can ive ever used.

If you have the tools (compressor, paint gun) really any 4:1 clear coat from a paint supply store will work great.

 

[7window]

for someone who wants it in a aerosol can
http://www.hbbody.com/prod8/prod62_large.htm
best shine of any aerosol clear can ive ever used.

If you have the tools (compressor, paint gun) really any 4:1 clear coat from a paint supply store will work great.

No option for buying it. Googled too but can't find it anywhere that sells it.

 

[Black2na]

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/upol-aerosols.aspx. the upol clear #1 is still a very good I use it on door jams then doing interior repairs

 

[ino uno soweno]

You find clear coat breaking down on multiple surfaces on a Celica GT4. You come to the conclusion that heat from the engine is causing it to break down and flake off. However, there is clear coat failing on multiple surfaces, most of which are not exposed to engine heat. Why did you then conclude that heat is causing the clear coat to degrade?

Ok, lets you if you guys "can" get " the facts straight ". one fact at a time,
1,

2,
3,

back, as soon as possible, hope u having a nice day,

 

[Black2na]

So your arguement of the fact that the clear wont hold up and will flake is wrong. clear is very different then it was in the waterborn days of the early and mid 90's it is much stronger now.

thought i covered that in my post....oh wait i did...

 

[ino uno soweno]

thought i covered that in my post....oh wait i did...

You thought wrong, you thought you covered that post yesterday, but you were wrong there, cause you got the facts wrong, you have swallowed the incorrect information JCH has feed you, hello, nock nock.

Please note, i/we will refer to the GT4 car, and pictures only untill you get the facts right, ok,


"this is the only post on this you will see ive said my peace and im done have a great day".

Looks like you wrong there too, you have been back 3 times, and the 3rd time was directly to me, so what is it, do you do what you say, or what, :whiste:

Why don't you get "your" facts straight, are you in for a factual debate, or do you have an agenda, ??,

Your eagerness to lash out in a antisocal narristic manner, leads me to believe you also have a personality " trait ", ,

You think
BIG IN MY FACE LETTERING


AND ANTISOCIAL NARRISTIC ABUSE.

ok seriously? your being an Asshole here.

Is going to make me submit, :biggrin:, wrong again.

you called me an Asshole, and you based that opionon on incorrect facts, GT4, what are you, ??. Humble enough to aploigize FOR YOUR STUPID MISTAKES., do you practice what you preach, or say one thing, and quickly change your "what you said before" to suit your self,( POST 3 )

but this is getting retarded, it is only retarded to base a solution on b/s.

You say,

I know because i have done it the same way you do it.

I say, Considering I have not had a chance to do pictures to show the way
I " do it ", I have been very sick,

Mate, with all respect, if the sun shines out of your arse the way you think it does, perhaps you can tell me how I am going to fix the "lastest stuff " up 10 dollars spray can job you are telling me do, just arrived, please give me detailed instructions on

I see alot of $10 spray can stuff ups, this guy already went ballistic when he stuffed it up, went straight out and brought new lights back and front,

It is very easy for you just to say throw a $10 can on, you have 11 years expereince, but this guy did not, yes he had seen it done,once, and through just lack of experence, Stuffed up, $10 plus replacement cost of front and back lights, OUCH, more pics coming,



This is what i am trying to warn first time $10 spray cans guys from doing,I am not saying not to do, all I am saying is do not stuff it up,

Black2na, I will be back asap to show you how wrong you have got it,

And please wait untill I can get some good pictures of the new $10 can STUFF UP, BEFORE YOU TELL ME IN DETAIL HOW i AM " GOING TO DO IT ".

BACK SOON,