Has anyone here ever tiled a shower before?

[ManBearPig]

I'm remodeling a shower for my grandparents and I've waterproofed it (redgard, concrete board, etc) and now I'm all ready to tile. I've never tiled before and am a little nervous so I wanted to get some advice before I start. I guess I am most concerned about the layout (where to start?), corners (floor to wall and wall to wall transitions) and the actual application of the thinset (should I trowel it on the wall and then backbutter the tile?). I'm using 12x12 (wall) and 1x2 (floor) ceramic tile. So yeah, any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

 

[Greenman]

Walls first. Lay it out from the center of the wall, that point can be a grout joint or the center of a tile, depending on how it works out in the corners. You don't want to end up with a little piece in the corner. For height, I always start at the lowest point of the pan and start setting one tile up off the pan so I can set on a straight edge. I fill in the bottom tile after the wall has dried.

I prefer spreading thinset and placing the tile in it, but back buttering works just as well. If you're going over backer board dampen it with a sponge before spreading thinset, you'll get a better bond.

 

[Zivic]

I'm remodeling a shower for my grandparents and I've waterproofed it (redgard, concrete board, etc) and now I'm all ready to tile. I've never tiled before and am a little nervous so I wanted to get some advice before I start. I guess I am most concerned about the layout (where to start?), corners (floor to wall and wall to wall transitions) and the actual application of the thinset (should I trowel it on the wall and then backbutter the tile?). I'm using 12x12 (wall) and 1x2 (floor) ceramic tile. So yeah, any advice would be appreciated, thanks!




Moved from OT.

Anandtech Administrator
KeithTalent

I've done some wall tiling....it's hard for all the reasons you have concerns about.

The hardest thing is starting. You need to have a level base to go from. start from the floor and get a level first row and build from there. I am guessing you are doing 3 walls of a shower? if so, figure out the areas you see first/most and make sure you keep those areas with the fullest tiles. I am sure others will have more input.

You want to spread the mastick on the wall for the bigger areas, and butter the backs on smaller pieces.

 

[richardycc]

I've done some tiling work and did 2 bathroom remodeling few years ago, I did the first shower and hired someone to do the 2nd bathroom. Tiling work is an art, it looks easy, but most DIYer tiling jobs are just that DIY hack jobs, it won't look professional. The guy I hired did it all, the floor and all, he used ditra waterproofing, hung the durock for around $900, and it came out nicer than I could've done myself. For your shower only, it shouldn't be more than $400. just hire someone, trust me, it's worth it. That $400 you saved would be long gone few years down the road, but your hack tile work will still be around. I wish I hired the guy to do the first bathroom, but it would be too expensive to rid everything out to redo them again now.

There are lot of hacks out there, so the person you hired might not do better than you can.

 

[Squeetard]

Thinset is dinosaur aged crap. I did a shower and a ledgestone fireplace using Acrylic Tile adhesive, and it is still looking great 5 years later. Too easy to work with that stuff. I also did a bithroom floor and my foyer, straight over the linoleum using that adhesive and they are still rock solid.

 

[edro]

Thinset is dinosaur aged crap. I did a shower and a ledgestone fireplace using Acrylic Tile adhesive, and it is still looking great 5 years later. Too easy to work with that stuff. I also did a bithroom floor and my foyer, straight over the linoleum using that adhesive and they are still rock solid.

Pure acrylic thinset (mastic) shouldn't be used in wet areas because it takes too long to cure and will never fully cure if damp.
I think Acrylic modified thinset is ok though, better check the MFG's website.
Regular thinset is tried and true.

 

[skyking]

Walls first. Lay it out from the center of the wall, that point can be a grout joint or the center of a tile, depending on how it works out in the corners. You don't want to end up with a little piece in the corner. For height, I always start at the lowest point of the pan and start setting one tile up off the pan so I can set on a straight edge. I fill in the bottom tile after the wall has dried.

I prefer spreading thinset and placing the tile in it, but back buttering works just as well. If you're going over backer board dampen it with a sponge before spreading thinset, you'll get a better bond.

All this.:thumbsup:
Use the longest level that will work or a good straightedge and level, and survey the whole pan/wall to determine the low spot to start with.
Do not grout the wall/floor tile joint, use the color matched sanded caulk. Grout invariably cracks at that 90 degree joint due to differential heating/cooling, etc.
Then you end up digging it out and caulking it anyway.

 

[Arcades]

Make sure you have enough tiles to still do the job after you break a few. If you never cut a tile before, I'm sure you will damage several while trying to do it right. Also, it's not that hard, just be patient

It's pretty foolproof, just follow the instructions and make sure you leave enough time between application and finishing it off.

When you use caulk as part of the finishing process, make sure to use a finishing tool. It gives it that professional look.

 

[boomerang]

When you use caulk as part of the finishing process, make sure to use a finishing tool. It gives it that professional look.

Caulk? Please, don't give advice when you don't know what you're talking about. People here asking question deserve good answers.

 

[MrPickins]

When you use caulk as part of the finishing process, make sure to use a finishing tool. It gives it that professional look.

A wet finger does just as good or better. Just keep in mind that you should be smoothing the caulk, not dragging it.

 

[Greenman]

Caulk? Please, don't give advice when you don't know what you're talking about. People here asking question deserve good answers.

Actually, he was entirely correct. There is always some differential movement between the tub/pan and the walls. Using color matched caulking at that seam is a good idea, I've done it often, and I've tiled a lot of showers.

 

[Greenman]

Thinset is dinosaur aged crap. I did a shower and a ledgestone fireplace using Acrylic Tile adhesive, and it is still looking great 5 years later. Too easy to work with that stuff. I also did a bithroom floor and my foyer, straight over the linoleum using that adhesive and they are still rock solid.

Thinset is the correct material to use over masonry, hardibacker, or wonderboard. Acrylic is used over greenboard, wood, or if you're lazy, vinyl flooring. Though I would note that if you're doing a shower with tile over green board, just don't bother. Get the cheap plastic panels from Home Depot and stick them up with duct tape, you'll end up with a better job.

 

[ManBearPig]

So when I'm doing corners, for example the corners between the back and side walls, how should I do 'em? Go all the way to the side wall and then have the side wall go almost all the way up to that? Or both just shy of the corner? It may be that I'll just hire someone to do it, but then maybe they'll do a crappy job, so who knows. I imagine that I'm overthinking this all; maybe it wont be that bad. Thanks for all the great replies!

 

[Greenman]

So when I'm doing corners, for example the corners between the back and side walls, how should I do 'em? Go all the way to the side wall and then have the side wall go almost all the way up to that? Or both just shy of the corner? It may be that I'll just hire someone to do it, but then maybe they'll do a crappy job, so who knows. I imagine that I'm overthinking this all; maybe it wont be that bad. Thanks for all the great replies!

I always run the back wall first, and do the corner cuts with a snap cutter, it's fast and ragged. Then I do the side walls and make my inside corner cuts neat with a wet saw.

Tile is easy to do, and very easy to screw up. If you're doubting your ability you should probably hire someone to do it.

 

[skyking]

It's a good thing to do once with somebody who knows it.

 

[boomerang]

Actually, he was entirely correct. There is always some differential movement between the tub/pan and the walls. Using color matched caulking at that seam is a good idea, I've done it often, and I've tiled a lot of showers.

I've watched a number of tile setters through the years all of whom have turned their nose up at using caulk at any finish stage. I caulked at the base of my own shower where the wall tile meets the floor tile instead of doing it the right way by re-grouting, with bad results. In this case the OP is tiling both walls and floor. That's what my post was based on. A tub pan with tiled walls, I get that. Different materials with one material better sealed with caulk than grout and a seam that is above the water line. A shower with tiled floors and walls will be too wet while the shower is in use for caulk at the seam between floor and wall to be long lasting.

 

[skyking]

OP, go here for the best tile advice. These are tile professionals and are very nice to talk to, very helpful.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/

 

[echo4747]

If you are tiling the ceiling of the shower area. It looks much better if the tiles overhead are installed at a 45 deg angle

 

[ManBearPig]

I always run the back wall first, and do the corner cuts with a snap cutter, it's fast and ragged. Then I do the side walls and make my inside corner cuts neat with a wet saw.

Tile is easy to do, and very easy to screw up. If you're doubting your ability you should probably hire someone to do it.

So do go all the way to the edge for the back wall or not?

 

[stormkroe]

The list:
Membrane
Durock
Screws. And more screws. And more screws.
Angle grinder with diamond blade (make any shaped cuts for taps, knobs, drains, etc., scoring break for straight lines.
Do NOT use metal schluetter.
There will be moisture penetration at some point, grout is porous and you'll fail to be on top of resealing it at some point. With membrane (usually bumpy, thick, and orange) it won't matter.

 

[Greenman]

So do go all the way to the edge for the back wall or not?

Go all the way into the corner, or far enough that the perpendicular piece will cover the edge.

 

[Muse]

I did it once. Interesting experience. At the time my landlord was pressuring me to move out. I wanted to renovate the bathroom before I left, it had suffered some dry rot, including the floor. I got that job done before I moved. We had a weird relationship.

 

[TheSlamma]

I've watched a number of tile setters through the years all of whom have turned their nose up at using caulk at any finish stage. I caulked at the base of my own shower where the wall tile meets the floor tile instead of doing it the right way by re-grouting, with bad results. In this case the OP is tiling both walls and floor. That's what my post was based on. A tub pan with tiled walls, I get that. Different materials with one material better sealed with caulk than grout and a seam that is above the water line. A shower with tiled floors and walls will be too wet while the shower is in use for caulk at the seam between floor and wall to be long lasting.

What caulk are you using though? if you are using anything but 100% silicone then yes all those latex and hybrid ones will ALL fail.

I don't like to grout the joints personally, 100% of houses on this planet suffer from movement and I always see the grout crumble out of the joints or form hairlines cracks that just become a dirt/mold trap.

BTW Greenman rocked it in post #2 in this thread. I hate when jobs come out with a thin cut tile on the edges.

Still shocked to hear people using mastic anywhere, modified thinset is tried and true. I've also used the Mapei Karalastic dry mortar epoxy in a fountain tile job before, the ONLY way that stuff is coming out is with a jackhammer.

 

[boomerang]

What caulk are you using though? if you are using anything but 100% silicone then yes all those latex and hybrid ones will ALL fail.

I have no recollection. Times change and maybe I'm not changing with them. I have general knowledge about a lot of things and have been able to watch as a number of construction jobs have been accomplished. My knowledge is more from watching than doing at least in anything construction related.

Cars are different. Lot's of hands-on with those but not in the last 10 or 15 years. I've reached a point in my life where I get more enjoyment paying others to do things for me than in doing them myself.

I came on a little strong in post #9 too. It's one of my various flaws.

 

[TheSlamma]

I have no recollection. Times change and maybe I'm not changing with them. I have general knowledge about a lot of things and have been able to watch as a number of construction jobs have been accomplished. My knowledge is more from watching than doing at least in anything construction related.

Cars are different. Lot's of hands-on with those but not in the last 10 or 15 years. I've reached a point in my life where I get more enjoyment paying others to do things for me than in doing them myself.

I came on a little strong in post #9 too. It's one of my various flaws.

Understandable

One thing that drives me crazy is in the tile section at both lowes and home depot they have caulk in those isles that matches the grout but they are "siliconized acrylic" which is fine for areas that have little to no water but of course since they are sold next to the grout I think it leads most people to buy it and use it in wet areas and it only takes about 2 weeks and that stuff begins to fail. They don't even carry silicone in that isle at all, you have to go to the painters area.