I only use silicone for sealing shower doors, or in a shower that has failed and the owner needs to get another year out of it. The colored acrylic lasts 3 or 4 years, and is easy to replace.
TheSlamma
Diamond Member
- Sep 6, 2005
- 7,625
- 5
- 81
I've had conversations with Mapei technical support before on their colored acrylic caulks and even they said you cannot use it on the base of a shower pan or it will fail. I know because I had this happen to me on the first shower I ever tiled about 12 years ago, only lasted about 3 months and then it just started the crumble and break away from the joint. Dug it out, replaced it with a small bead of clear silicone and never visited it again.
From their own TDS on the Karacaulk
Do not use for exterior projects or applications subject to constant water immersion
It looks like they have finally come out with a product to finally address it Mapesil (100% silicone) http://www.mapei.com/US-EN/Tile-&-Stone-Installation-Systems/Caulks/Mapesil
Soon I'm gonna have time to figure out the layout and then I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions lol. Its kind of a bitch because I have a little bench in there and since the pan has a slope its gonna make tiling it difficult. I'll try taking a pic.
edro
Lifer
- Apr 5, 2002
- 24,326
- 68
- 91
I used sanded silicone caulk for the joint between tub and tile and tile to ceiling.
It looked good and matched the grout almost perfectly.
One problem is since it's textured, it collects mold (the pink kind), so you gotta scrub it with bleach every now and then. I don't think pure silicone would collect the mold like this textured kind would.
It looked good and matched the grout almost perfectly.
One problem is since it's textured, it collects mold (the pink kind), so you gotta scrub it with bleach every now and then. I don't think pure silicone would collect the mold like this textured kind would.
skyking
Lifer
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
- 146
same here. I wainscoated the toilet area and used it there at the vertical/horizontal transition.
Interesting, I'll have to see what I used the last time. Whatever it was, I know it worked because it's in my master shower and I see it every evening.
So, uh, how can I tile my shower if its the walls arent plumb? Here are a few pics of what I'm talking about. Shower has been kerdied (by me, i suck, i know). Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Humpy
Diamond Member
- Mar 3, 2011
- 4,463
- 596
- 126
It's pretty much the same as if everything was perfectly straight. Layout from the center so there are no tiles smaller than a half at the edges. Keep the field tiles straight and cut to fit at the edges as needed. One of the benefits of tile is the ability to make the gnarliest situation appear correct and straight to the casual observer.
Based on the pictures I might consider skim coating some of the worst areas in an attempt to flatten things out a little.
Honestly, you should hire someone to set the tile. You're going to struggle with the quarter round on that bench, and your inside corners are going to be rough. That's not the shower to start out on.
If you do take a whack at it, start one row up from the lowest point in the shower, set a straight edge to stack off of. You'll have to cut the inside corners to match the out of plumb wall.
What sort of tile saw are you using?
DougK62
Diamond Member
- Mar 28, 2001
- 8,035
- 6
- 81
To reiterate some key points:
-do not use mastic in the pre-mixed tubs to set the tiles - it's junk. only use the traditional modified thinset
-color matched 100% silicone caulk should be used at every change of plane - wall corners and where the walls meet the floor should absolutely be caulked and not grouted
And let me add a suggestion: check out the epoxy grouts. they're a bit more difficult to work with, but in every other way are better then traditional grout.
Read a lot at johnbridge.com, ask some questions, take your time, and there is no reason you can't make a professional-looking shower.
-do not use mastic in the pre-mixed tubs to set the tiles - it's junk. only use the traditional modified thinset
-color matched 100% silicone caulk should be used at every change of plane - wall corners and where the walls meet the floor should absolutely be caulked and not grouted
And let me add a suggestion: check out the epoxy grouts. they're a bit more difficult to work with, but in every other way are better then traditional grout.
Read a lot at johnbridge.com, ask some questions, take your time, and there is no reason you can't make a professional-looking shower.
I would never recommend epoxy grout as a DIY material. It's difficult to work with, and if you leave any film on the tile you have to replace it. Most tile contractors I've worked with refuse to use it, and after using it once myself, I agree with them.
skyking
Lifer
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
- 146
I had no issues with latricrete's epoxy myself. I used many sponges and put vinegar in the water as per directions.
I tried groutboost on the last shower and not too impressed with that. It was not all that durable IMO. The laticrete was just about bomb proof in comparison.
I tried groutboost on the last shower and not too impressed with that. It was not all that durable IMO. The laticrete was just about bomb proof in comparison.
Kaido
Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
- Feb 14, 2004
- 48,654
- 5,419
- 136
Check out the Kerdi Shower Book by John P. Bridge. Waterproof, mold-free ceramic tile showers:
http://www.kerdishowerbook.com/
It's based on Schluter Systems hardware. Best system I've come across to date (unfortunately, not cheap!). eBook version is available. They have a couple additional books here:
http://tileyourworld.com/catalog/
Also, really good discussion forum here: (edit: skyking beat me to it)
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
http://www.kerdishowerbook.com/
It's based on Schluter Systems hardware. Best system I've come across to date (unfortunately, not cheap!). eBook version is available. They have a couple additional books here:
http://tileyourworld.com/catalog/
Also, really good discussion forum here: (edit: skyking beat me to it)
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
Depends a lot on the tile surface and joint size, on rough surface tile with wider joints it's extremely tough to use. You end up scrubbing the joints so much that the grout line is well below the surface of the tile.
I used it and was happy with the result, but the amount of effort and risk wasn't justified by the rate I could charge for it. It's a high risk, labor intensive, low profit material, the contractors version of a leper.
Blanky
Platinum Member
- Oct 18, 2014
- 2,457
- 12
- 46
No. I know it's easy to get it wrong, but the fact you redgarded tells me you did better than some pros do (just out of their own ignorance). A co-worker had his bathroom done recently to large expense and while it was happening I could tell by what he said the guy had no idea what he was doing. he was good at cutting tile but didn't understand where water would go. I was right when a nasty leak happened shortly after--actually two leaks I think, and it's only been 6-8 months.
Best tile job I've done is I replaced a floor some idiot contractor did and it cracked to death in under two years. Four years later it's flawless. I used Ditra because I had been watching too much Mike Holmes
Best tile job I've done is I replaced a floor some idiot contractor did and it cracked to death in under two years. Four years later it's flawless. I used Ditra because I had been watching too much Mike Holmes
holy cow, I am gonna be brutally honest with you, because I've been there and done, and you are going that same path as me doing the a DIY tile job the first time, and the end result aint pretty. HIRE A PRO, your prep work looks like $HIT, and the prep work is 90% of the tile job. It shouldn't cost you more than $500 to hire a pro to tile an average size shower, it is worth it, because yours gonna come out like $hit and you wish you paid that $500, but it is too late then, and it will cost you $1500+ to rip it all out to redo everything. So you won't do it, and have to look at the ugly tile work everyday.
make sure you hire a good pro, there are lots of hacks out there.
make sure you hire a good pro, there are lots of hacks out there.
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I want to do it myself because i'm having so much trouble finding a pro. Holy crap...either they don't like the kerdi system, wont come here, arent professional at all, or wont give me a quote if they come here. They all seem like scumbags. Just one honest guy would be great.
My plan is to do what you guys told me and just modify the left/right sides of the right/left walls of the vertical corners and get them to meet. It's gonna be a pain in the ass but I dont see any other way. Is it best to cut as I go or cut and then do it?
My plan is to do what you guys told me and just modify the left/right sides of the right/left walls of the vertical corners and get them to meet. It's gonna be a pain in the ass but I dont see any other way. Is it best to cut as I go or cut and then do it?
skyking
Lifer
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
- 146
Do this. Skim coat with the same modified thinset and a square and straight edge. Make your time easier.
Then,
Do this.
Figure out that first course up, and mark a line all the way around. Everything below will be a cut tile, with few exceptions.
Note that this course might be best positioned after you measure your bench height and figure grout spacing and that quarter round. If you take your time and work smart you will save a bunch of grief.
If the layout works so that you don't have cutters across that bench edge, and the bottom row is bigger than a half tile do that.
Hey, wouldn't a corner profile pretty much solve all my vertical corner issues? That'd easily hide the unsquareness I think.
skyking
Lifer
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
- 146
LOL NO. Nothing is easy. Those built out corners never really hide, you just manage them as best you can. If the corner is fat and you slap a premade corner profile in it, then each side of that profile will be the same issue and just bringing tile into the corner.
paperfist
Diamond Member
Ha must be a NY thing cause I always have the same problem finding a contractor.
Didn't see your pics, but tile is a nightmare when everything isn't as plumb as possible. And if your working with big box store tiles you may run into other issues like each tile not being the exact same size.
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