- Jan 30, 2008
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I have conflicted feelings about this...
On the one hand my design and fabrication bona-fides are proven :awe:
On the other hand you broke your car's frame!
I would suggest cutting it apart if possible, and plug-welding some angle steel inside the framework to reinforce it.
On the one hand my design and fabrication bona-fides are proven :awe:
On the other hand you broke your car's frame!
I would suggest cutting it apart if possible, and plug-welding some angle steel inside the framework to reinforce it.
- Jan 30, 2008
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ya, IM thinking Ill hammer it back into place, weld it together and then weld some thick angle iron over top of it to really give it some beef.
Then I want to think of some kind of Anti-engine roll apparatus (another torque mount, but not a mount) that can be bolted onto the block.
Then I want to think of some kind of Anti-engine roll apparatus (another torque mount, but not a mount) that can be bolted onto the block.
- Jan 30, 2008
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I managed to get some ugly welds in place to temporarily fix it. But I was just struggling with lack of space to do anything of quality.
I took it to a shop yesterday and we are thinking of building a piece that looks like this.
Perspective of looking up at the bottom of the car.
We're getting a good thick piece of plate steel, possibly 1/4" - 3/8". Then bolting it directly to the frame. We'll take advantage of two bolts that are further up the car that normally hold a cross brace below the gas tank. The guy making the piece also suggested to weld the front torque mount onto the plate, since the whole thing will be removable anyways. I said, "sure why not?" since that would make the most sense if we are trying to build rigidity and strength.
So, Im sorry JCH13, but we will be contaminating your perfection a little. I told the guy that his welds dont need to be as pretty as yours, just as long as they penetrate. He just laughed and said "yeah, I noticed those."
They are also going to beef up the rear torgue mount area as well.
I just told them to paint it with gold so that I never have to worry about it again.
Taking the car in tomorrow to get it all done.
I took it to a shop yesterday and we are thinking of building a piece that looks like this.
Perspective of looking up at the bottom of the car.
We're getting a good thick piece of plate steel, possibly 1/4" - 3/8". Then bolting it directly to the frame. We'll take advantage of two bolts that are further up the car that normally hold a cross brace below the gas tank. The guy making the piece also suggested to weld the front torque mount onto the plate, since the whole thing will be removable anyways. I said, "sure why not?" since that would make the most sense if we are trying to build rigidity and strength.
So, Im sorry JCH13, but we will be contaminating your perfection a little. I told the guy that his welds dont need to be as pretty as yours, just as long as they penetrate.
He just laughed and said "yeah, I noticed those."They are also going to beef up the rear torgue mount area as well.
I just told them to paint it with gold so that I never have to worry about it again.
Taking the car in tomorrow to get it all done.
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Seems like a reasonable plan to me. Just make sure they grind/sand the clear coat off so it welds nicely.
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On first glance it appears they have done some real quality work.
Havent had a chance to thoroughly inspect it yet. But I had the car out last night and it felt solid.
They welded a cylinder inside of the rear cross beam so that these bolts could fit all the way through without pinching/buckling the crossbeam.
One last note though: Not having a Limited Slip Differential SUUUUUUUUCCKS
Havent had a chance to thoroughly inspect it yet. But I had the car out last night and it felt solid.
They welded a cylinder inside of the rear cross beam so that these bolts could fit all the way through without pinching/buckling the crossbeam.
One last note though: Not having a Limited Slip Differential SUUUUUUUUCCKS
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all the time.
Cornering feels unpredictable when its gonna break.
Straightline I can break loose when I hit boost in first or second.
Im trying to figure out what all I need to get a Kaaz or Quafe installed in one of my transmissions, but info is sparse/incorrect/varying from source to source.
The shop that I picked this tranny up from said they didnt break it open because the bearing kit alone costs $1500. But all the tranny rebuild threads I read make no mention of this 'bearing kit'. Its confusing.
you might need some more bolts through that sheet, plain sheets are not very stiff in bending, so it won't transmit loads very well to those two bolts that are relatively far away. Your original sketch had a few more holes closer to the mount, what happened to them?
- Jan 30, 2008
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Jlee: I thought it felt like my right side wheel was always breaking loose, but I just went out and laid a patch of rubber on new pavement to see what was happening. I am indeed spinning both sides simultaneously, so it's all in my head. this FX360 clutch is great! It has a nice light load but clamps without chatter and holds even on a 5k rpm launch.
JCH: not exactly sure why they didn't put them there. Do you really think they would do that much compared to the main two in the middle?
JCH: not exactly sure why they didn't put them there. Do you really think they would do that much compared to the main two in the middle?
jlee
Lifer
- Sep 12, 2001
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Time for tires :awe:
And the cycle begins.
I have wheelspin!
*buy tires*
I can't spin my tires!
*moar power*
I have wheelspin!
*buy stickier tires*
I can't spin my tires!
*moar power*
/etc
Simply put - yes. those two bolts turned this big plate into a great reinforcement to the frame rail because it was tied in on two sides. Just using the forward two doesn't really count as reinforcement to the frame rail, and they're so far away from the torque mount that I doubt they're contributing much to the mount's torsional rigidity or strength.
It might be fine in the long term, especially if the frame rail underneath was welded up well, but your original sketch made me much happier as a mechanical engineer.
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exdeath
Lifer
- Jan 29, 2004
- 13,679
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Time for tires :awe:
And the cycle begins.
I have wheelspin!
*buy tires*
I can't spin my tires!
*moar power*
I have wheelspin!
*buy stickier tires*
I can't spin my tires!
*moar power*
/etc
Ultimately ending with "it's raining, I'm stranded".
only reason i came back into the ATG was to see if the engine was back into the car. and much to my surprise i come back and find not only a broken car again but it already fixed! like Exdeath said stop breaking things like a boss!
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Ill go to the shop and see what it would take to get those two bolts put in.
And yes, I am hard on my toys.
Hehe, I think these are the biggest tires I can fit on my car. Unless you can find a wider, street legal, tire that doesnt have a larger diameter than these 245/45/16's RE11's... 24.5" wide max.
I plan on taking the car to a 1/4mile track on friday evening. Hoping to get into the mid 12's... if nothing breaks. Next year I may prep the car for a road track. That would be fun to get into. Ill try to collect info about it friday evening.
For refrence. Car without LSD. Blue arrows show the RE11s. The other is from 205 DZ101.
And yes, I am hard on my toys.
Time for tires :awe:
And the cycle begins.
I have wheelspin!
*buy tires*
I can't spin my tires!
*moar power*
I have wheelspin!
*buy stickier tires*
I can't spin my tires!
*moar power*
/etc
Hehe, I think these are the biggest tires I can fit on my car. Unless you can find a wider, street legal, tire that doesnt have a larger diameter than these 245/45/16's RE11's... 24.5" wide max.
I plan on taking the car to a 1/4mile track on friday evening. Hoping to get into the mid 12's... if nothing breaks. Next year I may prep the car for a road track. That would be fun to get into. Ill try to collect info about it friday evening.
For refrence. Car without LSD. Blue arrows show the RE11s. The other is from 205 DZ101.
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- Jan 30, 2008
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- Jan 30, 2008
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Ya, I was popping it. At the track i guess you need to let it slip more.
Live'n'learn.
I want to know what kind of axles the MK1 in Peurto Rico is using that it can do wheelies.
I may need to think about finding a way to use MK2 hubs.
Methinks so too. Looks like you're snapping them right at the end of the splines, which are just too small for the power you're putting down.
Can you get a picture of the fractured bit and the rest of the axle next to each other?
Just did a little research... the new mill in my garage should (in theory) be able to machine splines, and I know a local shop that does heat-treating. So there's the nuclear option (custom high-strength axle stubs) should it be required.
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Best image I have right now. I think they are either SW20 NA, or 90-92 Camry V6 outer CV's.
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