FuzzyDunlops Toyota MR2 MK1.5 build thread.

[jlee]

November through April would be good, then.

 

[alkalinetaupehat]

I might be able to make a stop on the way home a week before Christmas. Or right around New Year's.

Also since the Silver car was your first go at working on cars, it deserves a V6. >.>

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

things is I probably wouldnt be able to drive this car down during those months. No matter which direction I travel to get down there (either thru montana, or over thru Vancouver) its about 1500km of snow/ice. Would be sketchy! but not impossible.

I might be able to make a stop on the way home a week before Christmas. Or right around New Year's.

Also since the Silver car was your first go at working on cars, it deserves a V6. >.>

The silver car isnt structurally sound enough to carry that sort of power - thats why I didnt put the 3SGTE into it. A 2gr-fe would be crazy though!

 

[JCH13]

I'm sure there's nothing on the silver car that you couldn't reinforce to handle a V6... :awe:

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

i mighta just buggered the engine. Was driving pretty hard today and noticed that the radiator fan was not turning on. Might have cooked it.
The car idles, and drives fine under normal driving, but when I push it into boost it feels bogged down. The guage is still reading 15PSI but not accellerating as normal. Little worried - I was just getting a feel for this car. Gotta run some tests on it some time here to see exactly whats happening. fingers are crossed hoping its something simple.

 

[jlee]

Did the temp spike? Check plugs, check for boost leaks, etc.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Well, problem is I still havent fixed the temp sensor that works on that dash, so till then I was going by what it felt like in the bay when I stuck my hand in there, haha!

This afternoon I hardwired the radiator fan to the same switch in my cab that operates the engine bay fans. Didnt see any blown fuses and the only reason I could see why is that maybe it runs off the same sensor that operates the dash indicator - I just assumed it would run off of the sensor that sends temp signals to the ECU. Need to look into that further.

I also flushed and burped the coolant again, just to be certain that its good.

Tomorrow (if I get a chance) Ill pull the plugs and check their condition, I have brand new ones I can put in place. I may also do compression test but last time I used my tester it wasnt functioning properly.

Anyways. heres the videos of dry weather driving. 3rd gear seemed to be taking longer than normal.
Controlled Launch from 3000rpm
Allowing a little wheel slip from 4000rpm
And 17PSI but felt bucking/hesitations at around 5500-6500 rpm so I backed it off a little and thats when I noticed "hey... the radiator fan isnt going! shiiiii"

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

ok so.
Made sure oil was topped up. Good.
Check all cylinders for spark. No problems.
Then I dialed down boost a little and went for a drive. Problem is persisting today. It seems to be boosting fine, but power is lacking.

Then I pulled the all the spark plugs: all of them looked ok still, no build up, fairly clean and gapped to spec. but i replaced them anyways.
Major issue though - the plug holes had oil in them?? how would that get in there?
I cleaned out the valleys and did a dry compression test. 120-115-120-120 ok, everying consistent.

Then I went for another drive. Nope. same result. Heres a video.

This is flooring it in second gear. you can here the Burrr burrr burrr after 4500rpm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNqaK541WMw

Im gonna go check for boost leak now

 

[Black2na]

your numbers seem low for a 3sgte...most people seem to be getting 140-150 range your not bad range wise. but numbers just seem low. i would check for a boost leak like you plan on it. and your correct even from videos the car is lacking. currently

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

boost leak test. Everything between air filter and throttle body is leak free.

The one place I am leaking - Valve cover gasket
Think it could be the problem?

 

[Black2na]

doubtfull the PCV system vents the VC anyway a leaking gasket will just lead to oil all over the place.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

hey... thought. could it be wastegate stuck open?

 

[Black2na]

you would build 0 boost if it was stuck open you made 15 and from the looks of the video 8psi which is stock wastegate pressure your building boost.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

you would build 0 boost if it was stuck open you made 15 and from the looks of the video 8psi which is stock wastegate pressure your building boost.

ya, I definitely have boost. I just went out and cranked my tester up to 25-30PSI. It revealed a small leak that I had missed, so I plugged it up good and went for a drive. Nope. Same issue.

Hit the gas in second gear and get 15PSI but almost no accelleration. grrr.


EDIT: Reading a bunch at mr2oc.com and it sounds like my knock sensor might be done for. Ordering a new on from ATSracing.net
EDIT EDIT: before doing so I just unhooked my positive battery cable to reset the ECU of any error codes. I had done this already before for about a minute. THis time I did it for 20 minutes. Fixed it. Cars back to normal. Turns out these engines have a "Limp Mode" whenever knock is detected by the knock sensor. Its a fail safe so that you dont damage your engine. Guess I just didnt unplug my ECU for long enough last time!
So ya. Good stuff. It wasnt throwing any codes though, which I assume is a symptom of the MK1.5 wiring.

 

[JCH13]

What I've always heard suggested is disconnecting the battery, then stepping on the brakes for a little bit. This should discharge everything quite quickly.

Oil in the spark plug holes typically is a little leakage past the valve cover gasket. It's a non-pressurized area in the oiling system, so only a little would get out, if any, because of the PCV. Unless some part of it isn't seated properly.

Your compression test results are pretty even, as you say, but seem quite low. I would double-check the spec for that and see if you're close. Did you do the compression test with the throttle wide open, a good battery, and crank it until the compression tester gauge stopped moving? Otherwise your engine might be a bit tired.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

What I've always heard suggested is disconnecting the battery, then stepping on the brakes for a little bit. This should discharge everything quite quickly.

Oil in the spark plug holes typically is a little leakage past the valve cover gasket. It's a non-pressurized area in the oiling system, so only a little would get out, if any, because of the PCV. Unless some part of it isn't seated properly.

Your compression test results are pretty even, as you say, but seem quite low. I would double-check the spec for that and see if you're close. Did you do the compression test with the throttle wide open, a good battery, and crank it until the compression tester gauge stopped moving? Otherwise your engine might be a bit tired.

I have a new valve cover seal coming from Jody at kbox.ca
doh!, forgot the throttle wide open. That'd def make a difference.

 

[JCH13]

Yar, open vs. closed made about a 30psi difference on my Miata.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

efff. this is frustrating.
went out to test it again tonight. It pulls good a couple of times then it bogs down like it was in my video in post #258. IM only running at 12PSI right now to keep things at stock levels.
it seems worst when the car is hot. It boosts ok when its cool. I dont believe its heat soak because Ive driven the car harder than this and lasted longer on hotter days.

Checked the timing tonight and its spot on at 10* advanced while the diagnostics port is jumpered.
Also crawled underneath to inspect everything and everything is good except for a light coat of oil.
grrr.

 

[jlee]

efff. this is frustrating.
went out to test it again tonight. It pulls good a couple of times then it bogs down like it was in my video in post #258. IM only running at 12PSI right now to keep things at stock levels.
it seems worst when the car is hot. It boosts ok when its cool. I dont believe its heat soak because Ive driven the car harder than this and lasted longer on hotter days.

Checked the timing tonight and its spot on at 10* advanced while the diagnostics port is jumpered.
Also crawled underneath to inspect everything and everything is good except for a light coat of oil.
grrr.

I had an intermittent/random stutter - after replacing cap, rotor, plugs, coil and igniter, turns out it was plug wires. New OEM wires fixed the stutter, then I had horrific intermittent bogging issues and FINALLY got a check engine light for the AFM. Got rid of that with the MSPNP and all is well now. No idea if that's your issue or not..but if you can find a local guy with an AFM you can try, it may be worth a shot.

 

[Black2na]

you could have cooked the knock sensor completely...id try and replacement on that

 

[jlee]

you could have cooked the knock sensor completely...id try and replacement on that

Definitely a possibility - mine died on the dyno at ATS.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Well am getting angry at it. Last time I got angry at an engine it led to a full rebuild.
Tonight Im no longer playing defence and am attacking with a full frontal assault with laser's firing set to kill.
Photobucket is down for maintenance, so no photos for the time being.

I went to the Big Green Book and started working down the list of things to look at for hesitation problems.
1. Brand new spark plugs - CHECK
2. Check continuity of high tension cords - All were within spec CHECK (but maybe i should buy new OEM wires anyways, same as you jlee?)
3. Vacuum leaks - couldnt find anything with boost leak tester. Tore everything apart inspected each piece individually. No cracks, no holes, all was tight, no leaks. CHECK
4. Ignition timing incorrect - its spot on CHECK
5. Incorrect valve clearances - here it gets good. I tore down the throttle body and removed the valve cover to check clearances. Everything is good. and very pretty. Check
6. Fuel system clogged - wouldnt make sense to be intermittent and I have a brand new filter on. Check
7. Air Filter Clogged - nope Check
8. Electric Fuel Injection systems problems - oh wow. do I wanna go there Not Checked
9. Exaust Gas Recirculation system always on - I dont have and EGR Check
10. Engine Overheats - Just drained, flush, refilled, and burped system. But this could still be a problem related to the Thermostat! Looking into, see below
11. Low Compression - check yesterday, all looked good Check

So, this leaves me with a few things to do yet.
1. I ordered a brand new Thermostat and a brand new Knock Sensor from ATS racing.
2. I bought a brand new valve cover gasket from kbox.ca but might not have anything do with any of this, just want to stop some oil leaks.
3. New Temperature sensor and radiator drain peakcock from rockauto.com (both likely unrelated)
4. I wanted this to be a suprise, but Ill let the cat out of the bag now - There is a brand new Air to Water intercooler, pump, heat exchanger, and fans coming from www.frozenboost.com The system is supposed to be good up to 350hp. yup. It also comes with 2.5" intake piped all the ways thru.
5. I am SERIOUSLY SO SO SO tempted to copy Jlee. I am getting more jealous every read of his thread. Megasquirt Plug'n'Play is calling me. oh so tempting.

BUT
Im going to first wait for all these new parts, get the car up and running, see if the problem is fixed. If its not, Ill get angrier and set lazors to vapourize

EDIT: durr, just remembered Ill need a new Thermostat Housing Gasket. gah.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

photo time

The BGB list

Things are torn apart

Clearances all good

Put to sleep for a couple weeks. Should probably stuff a rag in the turbo too.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

So heres a major source of oil leak. Gasket around the valve cover cracked and hard as a rock. It was cracked in five places.

As i wait on parts I figured I'd work on prettying things up a bit. A few hours of sanding and voila! Not perfect but nothing is with this car.

EDIT: and how bout this new Camera eh? big difference in photo quality.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

This ones for you JCH13
Feeding off of you post #154 I decided to go with your suggestion.

To clean up the bay a little I took out the aluminium heat shield and decided to give ‘er a good polishing.
BUT before doing that, lets ENGINE TURN IT! Yea!

First off, here is the heat shield. A little scratched up, but no big deal!

I took a ruler and placed a dot every half inch in a grid. Just used a sharpie as the brush will take it right off. These acted as a guide for placing the brush.

Then I took a one inch wide course wire brush attachment for a drill and taped it so the wires didn’t spread, and plugged it up into a drill press.

About an hour later and voila! I made a few mistakes along the way, but still came out with my usual standard of quality.

Here it is in the car.