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Formatting a new Samsung F4 HD204UI 2tb 4k sector drive Win7 x64?
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So, diskpart again?
Do you think it might be Win7 64bit that fails to format it properly? Shld I try diskpart with the 32bit version?
bankster55
Golden Member
Eh, sorry didnt see your post - was on page 2
yeah, its boot (active) - trying to do all this from memory - heh
http://www.dedoimedo.com/computers/gparted.html#mozTocId143113
Actually, it might be best to scrap that op - dont remember if Win 7 will allow install to already active partition, Win 7 can do it itself
(Update: Win 7 will not install to an active partition)
Win 32 instead of X64 is the absolute last option
If you are willing, I know this is a lot of screwing around - I really need that info about Vol 1, your drive is doing something a 512 drive doesnt - seems to be making that 1Mib aligner an actual partition
Since you used gparted you have to start again from scratch with diskpart per the commands to partition/format THEN the Vol commands with a screenie
yeah, its boot (active) - trying to do all this from memory - heh
http://www.dedoimedo.com/computers/gparted.html#mozTocId143113
Actually, it might be best to scrap that op - dont remember if Win 7 will allow install to already active partition, Win 7 can do it itself
(Update: Win 7 will not install to an active partition)
Win 32 instead of X64 is the absolute last option
If you are willing, I know this is a lot of screwing around - I really need that info about Vol 1, your drive is doing something a 512 drive doesnt - seems to be making that 1Mib aligner an actual partition
Since you used gparted you have to start again from scratch with diskpart per the commands to partition/format THEN the Vol commands with a screenie
Last edited:
bankster55
Golden Member
Ah, false alarm, that vol 2 happened because you have 2 DVD burners :biggrin:
Dont remember if I mentioned that you cant be in SATA IDE mode - has to be true SATA AHCI in bios with mobo controller drivers loaded
Seems like X64 is preferred over X86 with AFT drives according to the forums
So, its on to gparted tomorrow
Just read a post that the F4's need 2048KB offset not 1024, so 2MiB might be a winner, dunno. Anything divisible by 64 should be O.K.
Cylinders could do it too
After thinking about it, I remember now you can change offset in diskpart (never had to use it)
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc766465%28WS.10%29.aspx
Under create partition primary there is the offset switch as follows
offset=n
Specifies the byte offset at which to create the partition. If no offset is given, the partition starts at the beginning of the first free space on the disk. For master boot record (MBR) disks, the offset is cylinder snapped; that is, the offset rounds to the closest cylinder boundary. For example, if you specify an offset that is 27 MB and the cylinder size is 8 MB, the offset rounds to the 24-MB boundary.
..........
So we can set the offset to anything we want and it simultaneously snaps to the nearest cylinder, while in gparted you have those as individual options (which I think is better). I then took a 1TB HDD WDC FEAX and created a 45GB partition in it with diskpart, which defaulted to 1024KB offset. I then cleared the drive and recreated the 45GB partition with the align command at 2048 - you can see the commands here. Note you can abbreviate some words if you wish.
Snapping to cylinder makes things a bit imprecise, but may work
Would you try this for me?
>Edit: I sure hope your drive doesnt have any jumpers on?
That would crap things for sure
>Can you please check this for me?
Dont remember if I mentioned that you cant be in SATA IDE mode - has to be true SATA AHCI in bios with mobo controller drivers loaded
Seems like X64 is preferred over X86 with AFT drives according to the forums
So, its on to gparted tomorrow
Just read a post that the F4's need 2048KB offset not 1024, so 2MiB might be a winner, dunno. Anything divisible by 64 should be O.K.
Cylinders could do it too
After thinking about it, I remember now you can change offset in diskpart (never had to use it)
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc766465%28WS.10%29.aspx
Under create partition primary there is the offset switch as follows
offset=n
Specifies the byte offset at which to create the partition. If no offset is given, the partition starts at the beginning of the first free space on the disk. For master boot record (MBR) disks, the offset is cylinder snapped; that is, the offset rounds to the closest cylinder boundary. For example, if you specify an offset that is 27 MB and the cylinder size is 8 MB, the offset rounds to the 24-MB boundary.
..........
So we can set the offset to anything we want and it simultaneously snaps to the nearest cylinder, while in gparted you have those as individual options (which I think is better). I then took a 1TB HDD WDC FEAX and created a 45GB partition in it with diskpart, which defaulted to 1024KB offset. I then cleared the drive and recreated the 45GB partition with the align command at 2048 - you can see the commands here. Note you can abbreviate some words if you wish.
Snapping to cylinder makes things a bit imprecise, but may work
Would you try this for me?
>Edit: I sure hope your drive doesnt have any jumpers on?
That would crap things for sure
>Can you please check this for me?
Last edited:
Confirmed. No jumpers at all.
This might be the reason. It is IDE mode 🙁
I didn't have time today to play a lot with it, but I tried setting it in AHCI mode, but the PC wouldn't boot; error message saying bootmgr not found or something like that. I even tried setting just the boot (the SSD) drive in IDE and the new 2TB Samsung in AHCI but no success either. I'm going to try more tomorrow but this might be the reason. Any idea on how to make Windows boot from AHCI mode when the whole installation and everything so far has been in IDE mode for all the other drives?
bankster55
Golden Member
The SATA options in bios are the only place you can REset them, that requires a redo of drivers for the involved controller chip
They are global - cant set dif for each drive - except if installed to DIFFERENT CONTROLLER - like the Marvel or Jmicron on your board
Note once again that I really want to use the F4 SOLO with Win 7 EVEN THO this is a 5400RPM "data" GREEN (power saving) drive that isnt meant for heavy duty O/S use (slow boot). I always try to ISOLATE the problem - at least to the point something good happens. You keep throwing other drives back in with it - lets get the HDD working first (with X64) then we can worry about the rest later. And your F4 Win 7 is on an active system partition, so when you add it to other drives, you will ruin drive letter associations after a reboot reshuffle and the boot drive will not be able to find bootmanager on original path. Most times this can be fixed by using "startup repair" on the Win7 DVD recov console.
All you have to do is wipe drive once again, change bios to desired SATA setting (native or AHCI which is native with hot swap and AHCI prefetch stuff) and Windows should load correct drivers (if not the latest) during install. Your mobo came out in mid '09 and Win 7 came out in Oct 09 so the drivers may just be there.,
I would appreciate you put the drive on first second third or fourth (0-1-2-3) AMD southbridge port (fifth and sixth are really for opticals) it should be your bset shot. If install starts taking forever that means it cant find anything handy, and you will have to load drivers during install, like from a USB stick
FWIW - you can go from IDE emulate to true SATA easily, but you cant go back the other way unless you really jump thru some hoops.
>Let me download your manual and see what sata options you have
May take a bit.
In the meantime check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_k8hIqluIw
Some marblemouthed idiot with a shaky cam (in macro) did a compare between F3 and F4 on youtube and got some astounding numbers with the F4 - 174MB/s reads. Doesnt look like faked. I had no idea this $100 item could do so well, I am shocked
Over at newegg "comments" some guys are reporting 132-137 which is pretty damn amazing for a 5400rpm HDD. Normally, I wouldnt go near a green drive. I guess 667GB/in platters (3) makes up for a lot.
Also note in the video comments he is using Win 7 ultimate X64 with SP1. I wonder if SP1 has something to help ATF drive performance?
Coincidentally SP1 RC1 final just came out yesterday (17105)
Edit:
O.K. I got the manual
In advanced bios options:
Disable C1E support (just for now please)
Disable cool and quiet (just for now please)
In Integrated peripherals
ON CHIP (AMD) SATA controller enabled
ON CHIP SATA type AHCI (native would be plain true SATA)
To recap:
Put F4 on port 0 AMD SATA 3.0 SB710 (change SATA cable used last time)
Boot to bios, change settings
Reboot to DVD cmd
Wipe drive then partition drive again in diskpart from DVD - do not change align to 2048, leave at 1024K default
Install Win 7 X64 - keep mobo CD SATA drivers ready if needed on USB stick
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/motherboard_driver_chipset_amd_333_win7.exe
(looks like Asetup is win x64)
HDTune it
They are global - cant set dif for each drive - except if installed to DIFFERENT CONTROLLER - like the Marvel or Jmicron on your board
Note once again that I really want to use the F4 SOLO with Win 7 EVEN THO this is a 5400RPM "data" GREEN (power saving) drive that isnt meant for heavy duty O/S use (slow boot). I always try to ISOLATE the problem - at least to the point something good happens. You keep throwing other drives back in with it - lets get the HDD working first (with X64) then we can worry about the rest later. And your F4 Win 7 is on an active system partition, so when you add it to other drives, you will ruin drive letter associations after a reboot reshuffle and the boot drive will not be able to find bootmanager on original path. Most times this can be fixed by using "startup repair" on the Win7 DVD recov console.
All you have to do is wipe drive once again, change bios to desired SATA setting (native or AHCI which is native with hot swap and AHCI prefetch stuff) and Windows should load correct drivers (if not the latest) during install. Your mobo came out in mid '09 and Win 7 came out in Oct 09 so the drivers may just be there.,
I would appreciate you put the drive on first second third or fourth (0-1-2-3) AMD southbridge port (fifth and sixth are really for opticals) it should be your bset shot. If install starts taking forever that means it cant find anything handy, and you will have to load drivers during install, like from a USB stick
FWIW - you can go from IDE emulate to true SATA easily, but you cant go back the other way unless you really jump thru some hoops.
>Let me download your manual and see what sata options you have
May take a bit.
In the meantime check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_k8hIqluIw
Some marblemouthed idiot with a shaky cam (in macro) did a compare between F3 and F4 on youtube and got some astounding numbers with the F4 - 174MB/s reads. Doesnt look like faked. I had no idea this $100 item could do so well, I am shocked
Over at newegg "comments" some guys are reporting 132-137 which is pretty damn amazing for a 5400rpm HDD. Normally, I wouldnt go near a green drive. I guess 667GB/in platters (3) makes up for a lot.
Also note in the video comments he is using Win 7 ultimate X64 with SP1. I wonder if SP1 has something to help ATF drive performance?
Coincidentally SP1 RC1 final just came out yesterday (17105)
Edit:
O.K. I got the manual
In advanced bios options:
Disable C1E support (just for now please)
Disable cool and quiet (just for now please)
In Integrated peripherals
ON CHIP (AMD) SATA controller enabled
ON CHIP SATA type AHCI (native would be plain true SATA)
To recap:
Put F4 on port 0 AMD SATA 3.0 SB710 (change SATA cable used last time)
Boot to bios, change settings
Reboot to DVD cmd
Wipe drive then partition drive again in diskpart from DVD - do not change align to 2048, leave at 1024K default
Install Win 7 X64 - keep mobo CD SATA drivers ready if needed on USB stick
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/motherboard_driver_chipset_amd_333_win7.exe
(looks like Asetup is win x64)
HDTune it
Last edited:
This mobo has 3 different sata controllers i think. In BIOS it lets you choose different mode per port. Here's a "screenshot":
Let me try what you suggest now...
installing windows (64bit) now. Question: if (hopefully) this works and it was the bios setting (AHCI mode), then how can I change that setting without having to reinstall windows from scratch? When I tried changing it in the past, the system wouldn't boot (no matter what combination I tried, with different setting per SATA chipset, effectively keeping the SSD drive in IDE mode). I would rather avoid having to reinstall everything.
bankster55
Golden Member
Oh, O.K. I think I see what you did now
I downloaded a slightly dif manual- the "e" version
Sorry bout that
You cant just switch modes around at will
You have to delete all the old controller entries in dev man, reboot and load the new drivers if AHCI. Windows file protection wont allow overwriting of current drivers. If they still wont load you have to do it in safe mode when WFP service is off.
You were correct, on that mobo you CAN set the first 4 AMD SATA ports @ SATA and the last two as SATA IDE. But those separate pair SATA w/ IDE/AHCI options are implemented on mobo just for peeps that have SATA dvd burners that wont work well with true SATA (big problem in the past). So you can have 2 modes on same AMD chipset - as you said
But you DO have 2 SATA DVD
So now I have no idea where the four drives are > F4 SSD DVD DVD
Port 0-1-2-3 in your screenie is set at AHCI, port 4-5 at IDE
If you put the F4 on ANY port set to IDE, thats bad
So please fill me in just where the 2 burners are, the SSD is and where the F4 is. Look at the port locations - very important
Whatever it is, its best for you is to shut down, put the F4 on one of the Marvel ports, boot to bios, enable the marvel ON BOARD SATA 3.0 , AHCI mode (will set both), re boot and windows will detect and ask for drivers. This eliminates your mode change problems.
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3272#dl
I downloaded a slightly dif manual- the "e" version
Sorry bout that
You cant just switch modes around at will
You have to delete all the old controller entries in dev man, reboot and load the new drivers if AHCI. Windows file protection wont allow overwriting of current drivers. If they still wont load you have to do it in safe mode when WFP service is off.
You were correct, on that mobo you CAN set the first 4 AMD SATA ports @ SATA and the last two as SATA IDE. But those separate pair SATA w/ IDE/AHCI options are implemented on mobo just for peeps that have SATA dvd burners that wont work well with true SATA (big problem in the past). So you can have 2 modes on same AMD chipset - as you said
But you DO have 2 SATA DVD
So now I have no idea where the four drives are > F4 SSD DVD DVD
Port 0-1-2-3 in your screenie is set at AHCI, port 4-5 at IDE
If you put the F4 on ANY port set to IDE, thats bad
So please fill me in just where the 2 burners are, the SSD is and where the F4 is. Look at the port locations - very important
Whatever it is, its best for you is to shut down, put the F4 on one of the Marvel ports, boot to bios, enable the marvel ON BOARD SATA 3.0 , AHCI mode (will set both), re boot and windows will detect and ask for drivers. This eliminates your mode change problems.
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3272#dl
Last edited:
The drivers you point at your last screenshot are for win XP 64bit. Here's what I see for win 7.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3786160/gigabyte%20drivers.png
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3786160/gigabyte%20drivers.png
bankster55
Golden Member
You are right - I just googled it and thats the page that came up
My bad
Might mention you have your mobo CD as an option
Oh no, this looks to become how do I install hdd on marvel controller - lol
http://www.overclock.net/ssd/834816-marvell-how-install-ahci-drivers.html
My bad
Might mention you have your mobo CD as an option
Oh no, this looks to become how do I install hdd on marvel controller - lol
http://www.overclock.net/ssd/834816-marvell-how-install-ahci-drivers.html
Last edited:
I updated the driver to the AHCI one and now I get 73MB/s average speed (still lower than what I see in other people reports and still extremely volatile reading, ranging from 25 to 133 MB/s with the same spiky graph as before), but much better burst rate (186MB/s) and seek time 18.8ms (so-so, I would expect better). Not sure what to do now. Given that it's meant to be a storage drive, I could live with those speeds. But I'm not happy knowing that the drive performs WAY below potential. And it's not like I have an old system. I just recently upgraded M/B, CPU and RAM.
ran benchm again.
min 1.9 (!), max 136.6 MB/s, average 65.5
access time 19.5 ms
burst rate 188.4 MB/s
something doesn't work properly...
right now, all power saving features (C&Q etc.) are off from BIOS and Windows, it's a fresh install of Win 7 64bit on a 45GB partition created from scratch on the F4, which is the only drive in the system, connected to the SATA3 (Marvell) port, which is set to AHCI and has the latest drivers. Dunno what else to do/try. 🙁((
min 1.9 (!), max 136.6 MB/s, average 65.5
access time 19.5 ms
burst rate 188.4 MB/s
something doesn't work properly...
right now, all power saving features (C&Q etc.) are off from BIOS and Windows, it's a fresh install of Win 7 64bit on a 45GB partition created from scratch on the F4, which is the only drive in the system, connected to the SATA3 (Marvell) port, which is set to AHCI and has the latest drivers. Dunno what else to do/try. 🙁((
bankster55
Golden Member
Like I say many times, I like to eliminate possibilities
SOMETHING is causing your drive to slump then spike then slump
It seems unable to recover quickly after each read group
Feels like not enough juice or CPU thruput - like it has to digest what it did then resume, it practically stops dead
The DRIVE IS WORKING - you reach the normal 133. Then it drops off a cliff
Try the 2MB/4MB chunk in HD Tune, and drop the accuracy slider down to full, make screenie
Then again, it could be the align thing, as it tries to find next cluster
Please give screenie showing current offset
diskpart (in windows)
sel disk 0
list par
So the next up is a memory test booted from iso or floppy
http://www.memtest.org/
Just run for ~45 min - should be enough
Remember that your SSD IS memory!
Then the best sw for testing for bad sectors HDD regenerator 2011
http://download.cnet.com/HDD-Regenerator/3000-18512_4-10330123.html
Trial vers, will not fix, but will show every last bad sector
I dont even think that samsung has any drive fitness sw
On the other hand, 4096 drives may need a special sw
Edit: Please inform - are you madly overclocking your sempron?
SOMETHING is causing your drive to slump then spike then slump
It seems unable to recover quickly after each read group
Feels like not enough juice or CPU thruput - like it has to digest what it did then resume, it practically stops dead
The DRIVE IS WORKING - you reach the normal 133. Then it drops off a cliff
Try the 2MB/4MB chunk in HD Tune, and drop the accuracy slider down to full, make screenie
Then again, it could be the align thing, as it tries to find next cluster
Please give screenie showing current offset
diskpart (in windows)
sel disk 0
list par
So the next up is a memory test booted from iso or floppy
http://www.memtest.org/
Just run for ~45 min - should be enough
Remember that your SSD IS memory!
Then the best sw for testing for bad sectors HDD regenerator 2011
http://download.cnet.com/HDD-Regenerator/3000-18512_4-10330123.html
Trial vers, will not fix, but will show every last bad sector
I dont even think that samsung has any drive fitness sw
On the other hand, 4096 drives may need a special sw
Edit: Please inform - are you madly overclocking your sempron?
Last edited:
AARGGHHHH
I can't even boot with the SSD any more.
I get the message:
DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER
I tried all sata cables and all sata ports and all modes (AHCI/IDE). I absolutely need my existing windows installation on that drive, and all this messing around has screwed up something (in the BIOS???) that doesn't allow the drive to boot any more.
I can't even boot with the SSD any more.
I get the message:
DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER
I tried all sata cables and all sata ports and all modes (AHCI/IDE). I absolutely need my existing windows installation on that drive, and all this messing around has screwed up something (in the BIOS???) that doesn't allow the drive to boot any more.
bankster55
Golden Member
I told you to go to church on a regular basis - heh
First of all you gotta just boot to it, with F4 out.
Both have bootable Win 7 (dual boot)
Thats why we put the F4 on a dif controller so we could use one or the other, by unplugging data cable (not while on)
Your active partition has dif drive letter, or is not active anymore
Win 7 has to be on active, with correct path to C bootmanager
Go to DVD, go to repair your computer and click STARTUP REPAIR
You may have to do it 2 or 3 times as it shifts around
MUST reboot between ea
If that no work need to know what partition situation on that drive
Go to DVD cmd and do diskpart
sel disk 0
list par
sel par 1
detail par 1
Edit: and once again - STOP changing mode - its not a toggle
Whatever it started in leave it
First of all you gotta just boot to it, with F4 out.
Both have bootable Win 7 (dual boot)
Thats why we put the F4 on a dif controller so we could use one or the other, by unplugging data cable (not while on)
Your active partition has dif drive letter, or is not active anymore
Win 7 has to be on active, with correct path to C bootmanager
Go to DVD, go to repair your computer and click STARTUP REPAIR
You may have to do it 2 or 3 times as it shifts around
MUST reboot between ea
If that no work need to know what partition situation on that drive
Go to DVD cmd and do diskpart
sel disk 0
list par
sel par 1
detail par 1
Edit: and once again - STOP changing mode - its not a toggle
Whatever it started in leave it
Last edited:
repair computer didn't help because it wouldn't recognise the windows installation!!!! 🙁
I plugged the F4 and the SSD, booted into the F4, went into diskpart, made the SSD partition active (when did it become non-active????????), unplugged the F4, tried booting with the SSD, now it says:
BOOTMGR is missing
Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart
I plugged the F4 and the SSD, booted into the F4, went into diskpart, made the SSD partition active (when did it become non-active????????), unplugged the F4, tried booting with the SSD, now it says:
BOOTMGR is missing
Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart
Partition situation on the SSD is only one primary partition, with everything but 2MB of space. Now Active.
As for the mode changing, I want to set it to AHCI, but first I need to be able to boot into my SSD and add the drivers etc., otherwise it doesn't boot at all. That's why I reverted (temporarily) to IDE
As for the mode changing, I want to set it to AHCI, but first I need to be able to boot into my SSD and add the drivers etc., otherwise it doesn't boot at all. That's why I reverted (temporarily) to IDE
bankster55
Golden Member
Stop - relax man
this is no problemo, simple shit
DVD will see install if you make C active with bootmanager
Bootmanager is on DVD - you can just copy and paste it to C: using dos commands in cmd, or from a floppy, or a bootable USB stick
Bootmanager is generic file X64 X86 375Kb
Has to be placed in boot root
I need the diskpart info I posted above for the SSD
Dont need no install to go to cmd or repair startup
Just click on the tools radio button, top left if no O/S is found
this is no problemo, simple shit
DVD will see install if you make C active with bootmanager
Bootmanager is on DVD - you can just copy and paste it to C: using dos commands in cmd, or from a floppy, or a bootable USB stick
Bootmanager is generic file X64 X86 375Kb
Has to be placed in boot root
I need the diskpart info I posted above for the SSD
Dont need no install to go to cmd or repair startup
Just click on the tools radio button, top left if no O/S is found
Last edited:
ok, fixed it. Apparently, if it doesn't find the windows installation, you can click "install now", let it start the installation until it realizes there IS actually a new installation, you then cancel it, and it goes back to the first screen, and this time if you hit repair, it DOES show the installation! unbelievable! (google rocks btw)
bankster55
Golden Member
Whatever you do, dont join the Army, they have a way of dealing with people that have a mind of their own :biggrin:
So we are back to the previous post of mine for testing stuff - right?
Tomorrow?
Still have lots of ideas, as always
Its up to you
So we are back to the previous post of mine for testing stuff - right?
Tomorrow?
Still have lots of ideas, as always
Its up to you
Last edited:
Heheh, I've been in the army actually - two years...
anyway, yes, let's try again tomorrow.
I just ran hd tune again from the normal win installation (booting from the SSD, all drives in AHCI mode now with latest drivers) and it's WORSE than before (avg transfer rate <50) !!!
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