For all you Audiophiles, I have a speaker wireing question.

[divinemartyr]

<< I still believe a good wiring is always necessary. As for the interconnect, do not cut yourself short. >>



If you still believe that you should read this post by Ornery, which should dispell any beliefs you may have regarding good cables. It includes test data and tons of articles, a GREAT read and one that will save you lots of money. 🙂

Also, something I remember reading in recent past, was a test where a guy used a COAT HANGER, to send a Dolby Digital signal to prove just how useless it is to use supposed 'good' cable and his decoder returned 0 (zero) errors while using the hanger. Just thought you'd like to know 😉

dm

 

[Workin']

<< high freqs. like to travel on the outer edge of the strands >>

Yeah high frequencies like in the gigahertz range. and the &quot;skin effect&quot; is minor, even at those frequencies. 25KHz is the highest you'll need to worry about in an audio system, that's hardly high frequency.

Get some nice sturdy 16 gauge or heavier zip cord. Forget bi-wiring, period. Use the pile of money you saved to get some new CDs or DVDs. Elaborate cables are a giant hoax and rip off based on psuedo-science and consumer gullibility. Just because something sounds plausible doesn't make it true.

 

[Viperoni]

<< Also, something I remember reading in recent past, was a test where a guy used a COAT HANGER, to send a Dolby Digital signal to prove just how useless it is to use supposed 'good' cable and his decoder returned 0 (zero) errors while using the hanger >>



but don't forget that digital signals, either coax or optical, are just pulses.
Not waves like in line level devices like standard CD players.

That's why even the crappiest optical cable that still transmits a signal will always be just as good as a $100 1m monster cable (makes me sick to see them that expensive!)

 

[jamarno]

Sometimes there is a legimitate reason to not buy the very cheapest speaker wire: You want Teflon coated wire for its abrasion and puncture resistance (dogs &amp; kids chewing on it) and for its fire resistance.

Bi-amping is one of the few frills that I think is worthwhile, not because it allows less power to be used for the same perceived volume but because it seems to give cleaner low frequencies because the bass crossover cut-off is sharper. Crossovers in conventional speakers are usually not as sharp, and sometimes this causes a funny effect where sound at the crossover frequency isn't produced by either the woofer or tweeter. It was explained to me (without me understanding it) that the sharpness itself doesn't causes this effect but what does is cutting the highs or lows at a multiple of 12dB/octave (as many conventional crossovers do) rather than an odd multiple of 6dB.

 

[LordEdmond]

Hi
speaker cable use NAIM directional look like large fm ant. cable
or use single ( not solid core ) cable in the UK we know it as 4mm and twist it in pairs with 4 twists per metre this gives the correct capactance this is important for the amps sake

note
most speaker will at some point in the frequecy range will go down to 0.1 ohms or less
therfore assume 100 watt output( from amp) using P(watts) = I squared R(ohms) tranposing gives
31.62Amps thats why speaker cable needs to big

the above posts have covered BI Wiring in detail but good cable will perform nearly as good ( less trouble)

IMHO I prefer active amp system
pre amp -> active cross over -> as many amps as speaker cones . no pasive crossovers
this gives the best dynamic range and prevents the undriven speaker cone vibrating thus generating a voltage which is then applied to the output stage of the amp this is then rectified to dc and then drives the speaker out of phase to the others causing distortion .

hence you should not have any other speakers in the same room as the ones in use

have fun and ENJOY your system thats what you got it for !!