flirting with idea of watercooling

[garritynet]

[Mounting: Swiftech Steel MCB-120 "Radbox" Rev. 1

Rev. 2 is plastic/resin and Rev. 1 is steel. If the paint chips off the steel one it will rust. Trust me, it will. The plastic one is more expensive.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: garritynet

[Mounting: Swiftech Steel MCB-120 "Radbox" Rev. 1

Rev. 2 is plastic/resin and Rev. 1 is steel. If the paint chips off the steel one it will rust. Trust me, it will. The plastic one is more expensive.

The plastic one also cracks easily.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

"You will need the XSPC pump top if you are using 7/16" ID tubing because the standard plastic Swiftech top comes with integral 3/8" barbs and you need 1/2" barbs. These plastic 3/8" barbs are formed into the plastic top and cannot be removed nor replaced."

So after i replace the top of the stock 335 with the XSPC top FOR $20 MORE?!?!? i'll need to attach two more Fatboy G 1/4 1/2" OD Fittings? can someone explain to this noob why i need the XSPC top again?

in that case what are my other pump options for this loop?

 

[daw123]

Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
"You will need the XSPC pump top if you are using 7/16" ID tubing because the standard plastic Swiftech top comes with integral 3/8" barbs and you need 1/2" barbs. These plastic 3/8" barbs are formed into the plastic top and cannot be removed nor replaced."

So after i replace the top of the stock 335 with the XSPC top FOR $20 MORE?!?!? i'll need to attach two more Fatboy G 1/4 1/2" OD Fittings? can someone explain to this noob why i need the XSPC top again?

in that case what are my other pump options for this loop?

Here's the info on the Swiftech 355:

Summary of features and benefits taken from here. NB you will notice in the picture that the 3/8" barbs are part of the pump top and cannot be removed or replaced.

Small Footprint: 2.4" x 2.4" x 1.5"
50,000 hours MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) equivalent to 5 years lifetime.
Superior 12 Volts DC convenience: plugs into the computer power supply
The MCP355? can be used with full confidence in any MP servers, and high-end workstations.
Superior real world performance thanks to its high pressure characteristics (20ft of head). The MCP355? is particularly well adapted to the proliferation of daisy-chained liquid cooling devices in a single circuit: Multiple Processors, Chipset, Graphics, and Hard Drives.
3/8" barb fittings.
No maintenance when used with de-mineralized water, and anti-fungal additives (Our HydrX? additive is recommended)
Quick installation with adhesive neoprene pad, or permanent installation with screws and grommets.
RPM sensor plugs to 3 pin motherboard fan connectors and reports impeller rotational speed

Notice the bit in bold.

And PCTC2 also stated it as well:

Originally posted by: PCTC2
You need to pick up an XSPC top for the DDC3.2/MCP355 (they are the same) because the stock top is only 3/8 barbs. Then you'll need to pick up two addition fittings.

As for fittings, 2 for res, 2 for rad, 2 for the pump, and the CPU block comes with fittings. They will all be 1/2OD G1/4 barbs. DangerDen FatBoys and EK High-Flows are good fittings. Clamps will be 8 in number.

If you use the MCP355 with 7/16" ID tubing, the tubing will be too loose on the stock barbs (3/8" OD). You can probably squeeze the tubing on to the barb using worm clamps to make up the 1.6mm difference in diameter between the ID of the tubing and OD of the barb, but do you want to run the risk of it leaking?

Here's your choices:
Use a different pump with 1/2" barbs (such as the MCP655, which is $3 to $10 more expensive from Sidewinder than the MCP355 depending on whether you go for the speed control option)
Replace the MCP355's pump top with the XSPC top (additional $26 inc. barbs)
Take the risk that it will leak.

If I was you, I would go with a different pump (since your budget is so tight).

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
"You will need the XSPC pump top if you are using 7/16" ID tubing because the standard plastic Swiftech top comes with integral 3/8" barbs and you need 1/2" barbs. These plastic 3/8" barbs are formed into the plastic top and cannot be removed nor replaced."

So after i replace the top of the stock 335 with the XSPC top FOR $20 MORE?!?!? i'll need to attach two more Fatboy G 1/4 1/2" OD Fittings? can someone explain to this noob why i need the XSPC top again?

in that case what are my other pump options for this loop?

why not ditch the microres, and the top, and get a xspc res top and kill 2 birds with 1 stone?

 

[daw123]

Here's some options with costs:

OPTION 1
1x MCP355: $66 (From Sidewinder)
1x XSPC top: $20 (From Sidewinder)
4x G1/4 Fat Boy barbs: $10 (From Petras)
1x Swiftech Microres: $24.50 (From Sidewinder)
4x Hose clamps: $1.56 (From Sidewinder)
TOTAL: $122.06 exc. shipping

OPTION 2
1x MCP355: $66 (From Sidewinder)
1x XSPC top and res: $40 (From Sidewinder)
2x G1/4 Fat Boy barbs: $5 (From Petras)
2x Hose clamps: $0.78 (From Sidewinder)
TOTAL: $111.78 exc. shipping

OPTION 3
1x MCP655 without speed control: $70 (From Sidewinder)
2x G1/4 Fat Boy barbs: $5 (From Petras)
1x Swiftech Microres: $24.50 (From Sidewinder)
4x Hose clamps: $1.56 (From Sidewinder)
TOTAL: $101.06 exc. shipping

The MCP655 is the cheapest option, but do you have the space for it in your case?

 

[Gillbot]

You can also ditch the microres and usea T line.

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9517/1001987jz6.jpg

This is my "cheap" test loop assembled from parts acquired from classifieds. MCR220 (got it for $30 shipped with fans), MCP655-B (non adjustable, $45 shipped) and Apogee GT ($20 shipped). I got the clamps, copper plug and T at lowes for $5 and the tubing from Jab-tech for like $0.50/ft.

 

[daw123]

LOUISSSSS, have you had a look in the classifieds or FS/FT section to see how much you can get the components for second-hand? Or do you want to buy everything new?

I've kind of thrown costs around for new components, but if you are wanting to go for second-hand stuff then these costs become meaningless.

 

[aigomorla]

bitspower and fatboy are the same stuff.

so he can just grab it all at sidewinder and save shipping.

 

[PCTC2]

Originally posted by: daw123

If you use the MCP355 with 7/16" ID tubing, the tubing will be too loose on the stock barbs (3/8" OD). You can probably squeeze the tubing on to the barb using worm clamps to make up the 1.6mm difference in diameter between the ID of the tubing and OD of the barb, but do you want to run the risk of it leaking?

Doesn't work. Already tried. Massive leakage. Lots of air and water in loop.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

hmm so it looks like i'll get the mp355 + XSPC REServoir Top + MCR220 Radiator + a LGA775 Block, which is best for a Q6600? the D-Tek Fusion or Swiftech GTZ or other? (cheaper is better)

with those parts above, i guess i'll need 4x DD Fatboy G1/4 1/2"OD Fittings + 6x Worm Clamps?

 

[Gillbot]

If cheap is what you want, get a used Fuzion V1 or Apogee GT for $30 or less in the FS/FT section. There's only a few degrees between most current blocks anyway and the extra price of the GTZ doesn;t warrant the extra $ IMHO.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

i'm more aiming for best bang/buck..

and i'm always hesitant to buy used parts, unless they're easily maintained, like reservoirs, clamps, tubing, and radiators(?)

 

[Gillbot]

There isn't much to maintain on a water block, as long as there's no corrosion and they send you pics you are good to go. EVERYTHING in all of my loops was purchased used except for tubing and the DD fatboy fittings.

 

[garritynet]

I went best bang for the buck with my el-cheapo WC set-up and this is what I got.

10ft 3/8 Masterkleer tubing $6.90 http://www.petrastechshop.com/3id5odmagepu.html
2x DD HiFlow 3/8 fittings 4.40 http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenhifig1t.html
MCR320 w/3x Yates fans 67.99 http://www.petrastechshop.com/ptsulracomce.html
10x Herbie Clips 2.50 http://www.petrastechshop.com/heclnyhoclsi2.html
Swiftech SmartCoils 625 2.95 http://www.petrastechshop.com/40swsm625f5o.html
3/8 T fitting 2.48 http://www.petrastechshop.com/3odantblf3id.html
Silver KillKoil 8.75 http://www.petrastechshop.com/sikibyia.html
Steel Radbox 7.95 http://www.petrastechshop.com/swstmcrrebl.html

Apogee 350 Drive 84.99 http://www.crazypc.com/products/apogee-drive-9304.html

Total 188.92

Now that may not be the best WC setup ever but I just want to WC my PhII 940 when its at 4gigs without making a lot of racket. I got this setup on the basis of Martin's Lab's review where the 350 Drive was no more than 3 degrees hotter on a Q6600 at 3.6g when compared to a DDC355/XSPC top and a GTZ. It seemed to me that the 350 drive cost about half as much as the other combo and got pretty damn close in temps. The downside is that you will not be able to upgrade this to an I7 rig.

Anyway these other guys have so much more experience than me but I thought I would throw in my 2 cents anyway.


Edit: When I say "I went best bang for buck" I mean that was my goal. I don't have the experience to say what I actually got. ;p

 

[LOUISSSSS]

okay i think i got the 'jist of exactly what parts i want/need, now i'd like someone to come to NYC to help me build. anyone wanna have some fun and a beer on me?

and do any of you WC guys have any used parts to sell me?

 

[daw123]

Originally posted by: PCTC2

Originally posted by: daw123

If you use the MCP355 with 7/16" ID tubing, the tubing will be too loose on the stock barbs (3/8" OD). You can probably squeeze the tubing on to the barb using worm clamps to make up the 1.6mm difference in diameter between the ID of the tubing and OD of the barb, but do you want to run the risk of it leaking?

Doesn't work. Already tried. Massive leakage. Lots of air and water in loop.

@PCTC2. Did you try wrapping the barbs with this first. Its the plumbers best friend - you see it quite a lot wrapped around the copper flow and return pipes going into radiator fittings. Plumbers use it quite a bit on compression fittings (kinda like decorators use decorators cork and silicone sealant everywhere).

I'm now going to get flamed by decorators and plumbers, who visit this forum. Oh well.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

what kind of barb/fitting (are these 2 words interchangable?) do i need for a the XSPC Res Top for the MCP355 Pump?

 

[daw123]

They are called barbs but I suppose you can also call them fittings as well (I know shops sometimes call them this, for example, when they say 'fittings are not included'). I used the term fittings in my previous post with reference to the radiator that you would find in your home, not the radiator that you use in a PC liquid cooling system.

As for the barbs on the XSPC res top; if you are using 7/16" ID (such as the Masterkleer) or 1/2" ID tubing, then you need 1/2" OD G1/4 barbs (e.g. DD Fat Boys and Bitspower barbs).

Have a look at these:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishfifo.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadepofbofig.html

Both are $2.50 per barb excluding shipping.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

i've updated my OP list of parts, please comment =)

i've learned so much about what i need to complete a WC setup in the last few days, i'm so proud of myself, and thankful for your help.

just some minor questions:
Liquid: Distilled water + Pentosin G11 + ____?____. and what is the correct mixture?
What are some common problems of first time WC'ers? i'd like to be aware of them so i can try and avoid them...

 

[daw123]

Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
i've updated my OP list of parts, please comment =)

i've learned so much about what i need to complete a WC setup in the last few days, i'm so proud of myself, and thankful for your help.

just some minor questions:
Liquid: Distilled water + Pentosin G11 + ____?____. and what is the correct mixture?
What are some common problems of first time WC'ers? i'd like to be aware of them so i can try and avoid them...

LOUISSSSS, for the liquid, you need to mix distilled water with Pentosin and PT Nuke (biocide). Here's the mix; add 2 drops of PT Nuke and Pentosin at 5-10% ratio to the distilled water.

 

[Gillbot]

I use pure distilled and a kill coil. I don't put in any additives. If you need fittings, let me know. I have a few EK 1/2" around somewhere I can let go cheap. I also have a FuZion V1 waterblock if you get bored of the Apogee GT.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

are there any parts required to fill the reservoir? or is there a way i can just pour the mixture of fluid in there?

 

[Gillbot]

AFAIK, just pour in.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

so i just got the majority of my parts (minus the CPU Block).

i've just rinsed out the radiator with boiling distilled water about 5 times with one of the times letting the boiling water sit there for about 5 minutes. (is this enough cleaning?
I've also installed the XSPC Top on the MCP355, it was a cinch, lets just hope it works now. I also rinsed out the reservoir with bathwarm distilled water 2 times.
did i need to use vinegar for any of this?

my next step would be to estimate the tubing lengths for each section, then prepare my test loop outside of the case.

when mounting the radiator horizontally on the top of my case, do i NEED to have the barbs pointed downward? just FYI... can i have the barbs pointed upwards?

and how can i tell the difference between the apogee GT's bowing o-ring and the regular o-ring?