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Flexy Rack

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Any recommendations on what grit of sandpaper to use? Maybe 150?

Basically the only thing I need to sand at this point is the middle 1/4" section that wasn't rounded over on all the edges. I just need to remove a little bit of material from the surface to smooth out circular saw marks and get past the layer of paint on the surface.

I am not going to be painting these yet. (I'll wait until I've moved to wherever I'm going to live in a few months and hopefully do that work after I've moved everything... don't want to wreck my hard work while moving)
 
Everything looks great! Your alignment turned out fine, but I guess I should have mentioned that when I did mine, I drilled one shelf first and then clamped each additional shelf to the first one and drilled through the same holes. That helped to ensure that there wouldn't be any problem lining up the holes. That said, my design doesn't use quite as many shelves as yours.
 
Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Any recommendations on what grit of sandpaper to use? Maybe 150?
Click to expand...
Start with 80 grit, then 120, then 220. The coarser paper will take off the high spots and ridges faster, then the progressively finer papers will smooth out the marks of the coarser paper.
Think of it as "lapping" the edges of your boards.
 
Originally posted by: EvilYoda
Everything looks great! Your alignment turned out fine, but I guess I should have mentioned that when I did mine, I drilled one shelf first and then clamped each additional shelf to the first one and drilled through the same holes. That helped to ensure that there wouldn't be any problem lining up the holes. That said, my design doesn't use quite as many shelves as yours.
Click to expand...

You probably did mention it. I know I heard that advice before too.

I did think about doing that, but I couldn't think of a good way to get the three hole locations I needed by stacking boards like that. Since the boards weren't all exactly the same size, I would have had to clamp the boards together in a way that didn't interfere with the array of clamps I already had on the drill press plate keeping my scrap piece down.

I definitely thought about it though. I drilled my first one and then tried to find a simple way to use that one as a guide, but it would have meant switching the clamps holding together the board stack during the process, which could potentially mess up the alignment too.

If I had more time and space to work with, I think I would have put more effort into making that method work. There was a table saw directly behind where I was working and several people were taking turns using it to trim the ends off doors and other random stuff. I didn't feel like I had adequate room to line up a stack (even of two) boards correctly and be confident moving them around.

It certainly got repetitive though doing essentially 16 boards worth of work in a row 😉
 
Originally posted by: CallMeJoe
Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Any recommendations on what grit of sandpaper to use? Maybe 150?
Click to expand...
Start with 80 grit, then 120, then 220. The coarser paper will take off the high spots and ridges faster, then the progressively finer papers will smooth out the marks of the coarser paper.
Think of it as "lapping" the edges of your boards.
Click to expand...

I left to pick up the finished boards and go to the hardware store before I saw this post. I ended up getting the multiple grit pack they had of 100 - 150 - 220.
 
Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Originally posted by: CallMeJoe
Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Any recommendations on what grit of sandpaper to use? Maybe 150?
Click to expand...
Start with 80 grit, then 120, then 220. The coarser paper will take off the high spots and ridges faster, then the progressively finer papers will smooth out the marks of the coarser paper.
Think of it as "lapping" the edges of your boards.
Click to expand...
I left to pick up the finished boards and go to the hardware store before I saw this post. I ended up getting the multiple grit pack they had of 100 - 150 - 220.
Click to expand...
That should be great. Pop a :beer:, and get to sanding!
 
I think I'm just going to do 100 grit for now. My main concern is to clean up the edges that look pretty bad.

When it comes time to actually paint the thing, I'll decide now much I have to worry about sanding them further.

Ok, pictures for today 😛

Getting the stack of finished boards from the craftshop
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...OhowsDAjello/Stack.JPG

Here's what the edges looked like
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...wsDAjello/RawEdges.JPG

A shot of before and after what I'm doing now with 100grit sandpaper

Before
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...llo/Before_Sanding.JPG

After
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...ello/After_Sanding.JPG
 
I stopped sanding several hours ago since it was getting dark out.

I decided that before I put too much effort into sanding all the other panels that I should make sure it fit together.

The hardest part was getting it started, but that wasn't too bad.
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/Fit_Start.JPG

I thought about starting in the middle to minimize threading work, but with the complex bottom panels fitting together at very specific heights, I figured that was the safest place to start.

The holes were the perfect size and lined up just fine.
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...wsDAjello/Hole_Fit.JPG

It took about an hour to do the rough fit test. I did not measure the shelf heights, nor did I level the shelves carefully (yes, I do have a level for that once it comes to that point).

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/Fit_Done1.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/Fit_Done2.JPG

I don't think I need to spend the $20 on acorn nuts since I'm pretty satisfied with this look.
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/No_Acorns.JPG

Of course the coolest part is probably that it's adjustable.
Things aren't tightened down in this test fit, so it's really easy to change the angle of the units in relation to one another.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...owsDAjello/Adjust1.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...owsDAjello/Adjust2.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...owsDAjello/Adjust3.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...owsDAjello/Adjust4.JPG

Thanks for the help in developing this design!
 
I don't have a whole lot of daylight after work, so it's been slow going on the outdoor sanding. I have 6 shelves sanded with 5 (or 6 if I do them all) to go.

On an unrelated note, my ongoing power issues in the apartment have resulted in an appointment to get a new outlet installed from the main line to wherever I want in my apartment, so that will be going below the projector screen just behind where this rack will be going.
 
Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
I don't have a whole lot of daylight after work, so it's been slow going on the outdoor sanding. I have 6 shelves sanded with 5 (or 6 if I do them all) to go.

On an unrelated note, my ongoing power issues in the apartment have resulted in an appointment to get a new outlet installed from the main line to wherever I want in my apartment, so that will be going below the projector screen just behind where this rack will be going.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:
 
Ok, update time.

I finally found out last night that my Onkyo 876 does indeed function 😉

Yesterday was spent basically cleaning the whole livingroom and rewiring everything. Even though the electronics moved less than 10 feet, my wire routing changed completely since they are now run in a much more logical route along the outside wall of the room where the vast majority don't need to be walked over. Before, I had two huge bundles of wires running in two different routes through the room. Bundle 1 was speaker wire that went under the archway opening to the kitchen and across the doorway to the bedroom. This consisted of six 12 gauge speaker cables since only the left surround speaker was able to be wired to the amp without a doorway opening to get across. The second bundle of wires included HDMI, Component, and Power to the projector along with subwoofer cables, bass shaker cables, and computer connections.

Now, there are only two speaker wires and 1 Ethernet cable that cross openings. That's not to say I spent a lot of time doing cable management, but it's certainly neater than before. The space behind the rack is a huge mess of cables that are way too long now. I'll see how my situation is after I move to decide what I want to do.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/YOyoYOhowsDAjello/Done.JPG
(Movie pile and remote pile are there temporarily)

I had one more idea about how to make the rack pop a bit more. My goal is piano black for the shelves eventually, or at least a satin or gloss black.
For the rods, I was thinking about how I might be able to get them to match with the system.
As a test, I took a picture of some wood grain on my speakers and then my gf printed it up on her photo printer. I honestly think I might be able to get this to work as coverings for the threaded rods if I can get some protective plastic covers (or my gf suggested laminating them) and making cylinders around the rods.
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...DAjello/Rod_Covers.JPG

Rough concept
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...r_spacing_rosewood.png

Things I haven't figured out yet:
- A good system for keeping them in cylinder shape
- A good way of protecting them
- A clean way of doing the top parts on the side shelves (replacing the "acorn nut" ends)


On another note, I listed my floor model Circuit City audio component rack (Circuit City list price $180, bought it for $35) on craigslist yesterday. I just had a guy come over and buy it for $60. He came in and said "Wow, Rockets!". He'd heard the 750s when AV123 was just starting out and we chatted a little bit about the auditioning program and such. He had built a DIY rack as well with 10 shelves. He liked the design that you guys helped me develop. Anyway, the old rack is gone and my place looks a lot more spacious now.

😀
 
you could cut a C into lengths of round styrofoam and have the seam at the back. styrofoam tubes with 3/8 i.d. should be better if you can find them. slip over the rod and secure with some velcro.
 
Would 3/8" i.d. leave a large gap in order to fit around? Considering the rods I'm using have a 3/4" diameter, I thought that's what I might shoot for with a tight fitting cover... or maybe even something with a larger i.d. and just let it "float" around the structure of the rack.
 
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