Flexy Rack

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe
Try a Forstner Bit for your drilling. It will give you a much cleaner hole than either of the bits you have considered so far.

that thing looks kick-ass, and never heard of anyone not liking porter-cable. for a 5/8" rod, drill a 3/4" hole.

I'd try the 5/8x11 rod in a true 5/8" hole, first. When you thread a rod, it usually reduces the major diameter slightly; the nominal 5/8" rod should slide right through the holes in the MDF with no interference at all. You just need to be sure to get your holes aligned correctly.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: EvilYoda

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
The more I thought about the acorn nuts, the less it seemed to matter. I think I'll see what it looks like without them first and then decide if it's worth the cost to add them.

I haven't been following, acorn nuts for what? The top of the exposed threaded rod, I'm assuming?

Yes, that was the original plan.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I got a reply e-mail from the UW-Madison craftshop saying they have a router, drill press, and bits, etc.

I'm planning on checking it out today. It would be about $6 an hour to work there.

Assuming it's been oh... 12 years since I've used a drill press or a router, any rough estimates on how many hours it might take to get all this done?

- Practice roundover cuts on four 20"x20" shelves (32 cuts)
- Roundover cut on twelve 24"x20" shelves (96 cuts)

- Practice 3/4" hole drilling on the four 20"x20" shelves (16 holes since I'd be doing 4 corners on these)
- Drilling 3/4" holes on twelve 24"x20" shelves (36 holes)

If I go slow and careful lining everything up right, what would be a reasonable time to expect to spend on this?

 

[43st]

Going slow, handling and protecting the MDF carefully, with a plan I'd say about 1 hour. Actual cutting and drilling will not take long, it will be carefully handling everything that will add the time. I'd also recommend a router table for your sheets, and not a hand held, if you can do that. Also be very careful with your drilling, if you're using a drill press consider putting a scrap piece under the MDF, and then setting your depth so it just enters the scrap. This will prevent any blow outs of the MDF (depending on the quality of the board).

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I was expecting significantly more time than that. I guess it goes quick once you get the hang of it, eh?

The only router I've used was a table router and it seems like that's the best way to get consistent and easy results too, so I'll use it if they have it.

So having the other scrap board under the real board supports the good board's structural integrity around the hole?

Any suggestions on how to get the most consistent drilling results? My plan this morning it to mark off the center spot for hole locations in pencil. Once I'm at the drill, would it make sense to try to clamp on some scrap wood pieces to hold the boards in the correct position as I place them?

Does it make more sense to do the drilling first or the routing first?
Now that I think about it, I'm thinking drill first? That way I have nice flat corners to use for lining up the pieces in the drill press, and if any slight bumping / marring of the edges occurs when I'm moving things around in the drilling, I'd have the chance to cut it out when I roundover the edges?

Oh, one more thing about the router usage.
If I have 3/4" MDF, what type of roundover bit would be best to use?
A 3/8" radius bit would give me a complete semi-circle edge, correct?
Is that recommended, or would it be better to use a smaller radius and leave a bit of flat edge between the two rounded edges?
What about corners? Just make four straight passes and leave the corners, or continue the roundover on the corners? If I want to do the corners, how does that work?

I'm glad I made this thread

 

[CallMeJoe]

Both the Forstner and paddle-style bits have a pilot point, so your center mark for hole placement should suffice.
Clamping a couple of guide boards to the press when you position your first board for drilling will help ensure all your subsequent boards are drilled at the same point, assuming the base plate of the drill press is large enough to accommodate the guides. For the ends with two holes, flipping the board 180 degrees will get the other hole in that end in the same (symmetrical) spot.
I would just make straight passes with the roundover, leaving a square corner with rounded edges. I probably would opt for the 3/8" bit for a full round profile, but that's just my preference.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

So when I measure and mark these today, I should be marking on different sides for the two hole ends, eh?

 

[43st]

There are many ways to go about this.. I'll just mention how I would proceed.

- Holes: Mark the location and dimple all the hole locations prior to going to the shop. Dimple the center with a small nail. This is how you align the drill bit, not by the sides of the MDF (unless you make a fence on the drill press to put your pieces in). You can clamp a scrap board down first, if you wish and based on the results of a test. Let the bit do the cutting and never try to force the bit through the piece, just provide steady pressure on the drill press arm, as if you are using your arm as dead weight only. If you are clamping down the MDF makes sure you protect the MDF from the clamp, with either a rubber pad or a scrap piece of wood.

- Round over: This is vastly to taste, in my opinion. Personally I probably wouldn't want a full rounded edge, but more of an eased edge. This is something that you'll want to test a few times before cutting your final pieces. example. Basically find the style you like and run all your boards at once. Be sure to check you've done all sides both on front and back (if that's your style choice).

On second thought this may take longer.. Just be sure to give yourself enough time, so you don't hurry anything. This is usually when mistakes happen.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Thanks for the examples. I'll probably end up doing something on the smaller side (eased edge). It would match the end caps and riser stands on my speakers better at least.
Old pictures
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...DAjello/Riser_side.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Risers.JPG

If I eventually get something somewhat close to a gloss finish on these, it would be nice if the style has some consistency with the speakers.

Along these lines, if I wanted to work on the vertical edges in the four corners of the board, what's the best way to do that?

This is what I was originally thinking for a time estimate
30 minutes to get all set up with my material and to get the drill press set up how I want it using test pieces
30 minutes to do the 20"x20" shelves with 4 holes and check that a 3/4" threaded rod fits through (If I manage to get one first)
30 minutes to do the holes on the 26"x20" shelves

30 minutes to get all set up with the router and deciding what kind of roundover I want to use
30 minutes to do the 20"x20" shelves for practice
1 hour to do the 26"x20" shelves

30 minutes to double check work and clean up everything

So maybe 4 hours to do everything?

 

[43st]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Along these lines, if I wanted to work on the vertical edges in the four corners of the board, what's the best way to do that?

This is tricky.. You could do it on the router table with a larger bit (or the same smaller bit?), but this would require holding the board on end. You would need a large pusher of some sort to keep the piece firmly perpendicular to the router bit and stable as you pushed it through. I'd consider this more advanced router table usage, just knowing how to set up a proper jig to do the job, as well as clamping the work to the jig.

If you want to ghetto it, and insist on doing something to those vertical edges, then look around for an wooden wine box or milk crate. Something 18"x18"x18"-ish and very solid. You could use some quick clamps to clamp the shelf to this box and then run it vertically through the router. Of course doing this, and not being 100% sure of yourself on a shop floor will get people staring.

If they have a belt or disk sander you could do it by eye. This would probably be the safest, but also most prone to screw up. You also have the additional difficulty of running that curved edge through your other round-over operation, not something I'd do on a router table (but instead with a hand held).

I'd suggest you forget about those vertical edges. :laugh: Maybe someone else has a good idea. To me those are the hardest part of your entire endeavor, and will most likely double the time needed to manufacture these shelves.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Yeah, I was picturing how the boards would have to go through the router table to accomplish what I wanted, and I was envisioning much confusion and risk of screwing everything up.
Considering just a couple days ago I was planning on using plain MDF with no routing at all, I think the vertical edges are something I don't need to worry about now.

My tentative plan is to get all the boards rounded and drilled as planned and then if I have time / desire to do so, I'll do some test work trying to get a good finish on the 20"x20" boards. Once I'm satisfied with what I'm doing, I'll take apart the main stand and do those shelves.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Ok, I checked out the UW-Madison Craftshop.

Completely empty workshop this afternoon. There are a couple drill presses (a small desktop one and a large standalone unit).

They have two routers, both of which are handheld.

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Ok, I checked out the UW-Madison Craftshop.
Completely empty workshop this afternoon. There are a couple drill presses (a small desktop one and a large standalone unit).
They have two routers, both of which are handheld.

Do they at least have an edge guide available for the routers?

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Ok, I checked out the UW-Madison Craftshop.
Completely empty workshop this afternoon. There are a couple drill presses (a small desktop one and a large standalone unit).
They have two routers, both of which are handheld.

Do they at least have an edge guide available for the routers?

I'll ask.

 

[43st]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Ok, I checked out the UW-Madison Craftshop.
Completely empty workshop this afternoon. There are a couple drill presses (a small desktop one and a large standalone unit).
They have two routers, both of which are handheld.

Do they at least have an edge guide available for the routers?

I'll ask.

You don't really need a guide I don't think, the round over bit will have a bearing on the bottom of it. You'll just need to securely clamp the piece down before starting. And just be sure that the bit is cutting INTO the board, not away from.

If you're doing it right the router will be pulled into the work, if you're going the wrong way the router will be difficult to hold against the piece. Just glance at the bit before you start the router if you're unsure.

 

[The Boston Dangler]

you might want to consider a simple jig for the router

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler
you might want to consider a simple jig for the router

Could you elaborate?

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler
you might want to consider a simple jig for the router

Could you elaborate?

One example

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler
you might want to consider a simple jig for the router

Could you elaborate?

One example

Looks like just what I need!

Here's the latest iteration of the plan

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...2_inch_bar_spacing.png

I made a mock up of 1.5" and 2" spacing for the bars, and the 2" looked more aesthetically pleasing to me. The 2" spacing should help keep the width within my limits taking into account the angle I want to use for the shelves.

My plan now is to make a template out of paper with my measurements on it including holes where I can mark on the MDF in exactly the same spot every time.

I lined up all the MDF sheets first to check for uniformity, and they're all very very close to exactly the same size. Good job Home Depot dude

 

[The Boston Dangler]

hmmm, what do you need the router for?

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I want to use a roundover bit on the horizontal edges of all the shelves.

From the link 43st provided
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/9020/capturegrx.jpg
Either the 1/8" or 1/4" roundover look is probably what I want it to look like.

I have used my template to make small starter holes at the locations for the threaded rod holes and then circled them in pencil just so that it's obvious where they are later on when I'm drilling.

Two holes in front will be 2" from the front side and 2" from the left/right sides.

One hole in the back will be 1.5" from the back and 13" from left/right sides.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/Template1.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/Template2.JPG
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/Template3.JPG

 

[HomeBrewerDude]

this thread delivers

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Hopefully so does McMaster Carr since I ordered yesterday morning

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Well, the stuff arrived today. That sure was quick (less than 36 hours?).

Ordering 3/4" hardware it came to 28 pounds. Shipping cost was only $9.25

I took some pictures... will upload later. Everything looks to be in great shape, especially the threaded rods. Some of the threaded rods at Home Depot and Ace Hardware were a little beat up.

 

[CallMeJoe]

That was fast! How soon do you get to the shop?