Flexy Rack

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Ok, for people keeping track, here's what I ordered for my 3/4" version (I'll try to link to McMaster-Carr using part numbers, I'm not sure if this will work)

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Parts1.JPG

Six 3/4" rods (I now have seven total)... I bought the 7th earlier this weekend in case I got a chance to start the construction process earlier. I wanted to be able to make sure the holes I was drilling were the correct size. Had I known that the extremely cheap shipping was going to be next day, I certainly would have bought all the rods from McMaster Carr.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Parts2.JPG
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/en...90034A036&pagenum=3133
Part # 90034A036

Four 21 packs of 3/4" steel washers
I was a bit worried about this item since they were only $2.85 per pack of 21 compared to $12.43 per 25 pack of the 5/8" stainless steel washers suggested in this build
If my calculations are correct, I only need 62 of these, but I figured I'd go ahead and order 4 packs (84) instead of 3 (63) in case they were of inconsistent quality due to the low price. Based on inspecting a few of them, they seem absolutely fine. I don't know why these are so cheap, but I'm not complaining.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Parts3.JPG
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/en...90126A036&pagenum=3179
Part # 98017A215

Two 50 packs of 3/4" nuts
I decided to get the reduced height versions since they were cheaper and because the full height versions are pretty tall in 3/4" variety. They are available in 27/64", 41/64", and 47/64" from Master Carr. I got the 27/64" versions.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Parts4.JPG
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/en...91078A238&pagenum=3153
Part # 91078A238

Three 25 packs of 3/4" neoprene washers
Not much to say here... other than that the local places I sent to had VERY expensive pricing on washers this size.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Parts6.JPG
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/en...90133A435&pagenum=3196
Part # 90133A435

One 100 pack of 1/2" inside height 3/4" diameter end caps
I decided to go with AirAlex's suggestion and get end caps rather than the chair feet. I went back and forth a bit on which height to use but I think I made a good choice on the 1/2" inside height. As a possible replacement to acorn nuts (yes, I skipped those), they seem to look pretty decent as threaded rod caps (as well as feet).

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Parts5.JPG
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/en...m=9753K52&pagenum=3689
Part # 9753K52




As for when I'm planning on starting the actual work, my grand plan of how to easily transport all these boards has hit a bit of a snag
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...howsDAjello/Parts7.JPG
If the cart was just a few inches wider, I'd be able to fit the whole project.

Too bad the UW craftshop is on the 4th floor of the Union. If I can't use the elevator, I'm in for some huffing and puffing. I may be able to get my hands on a different kind of cart or maybe a dolly that would allow me to load up the whole project at once making things a lot easier to transport.

I may be having a late night at work tomorrow, but there's still a chance I might be able to start this tomorrow. I hope that I'll have everything ready for assembly by this weekend at the latest.

EDIT: Ok, if I can't get another cart to transport this stuff, I've figured out that I could just cut away the front thin metal bar crosswork on that cart and lay the boards sideways in it and they should all fit. I'll ask my gf about using her cart first though

 

[AirAlex]

You ended up getting those vinyl caps huh? I think it gives a cleaner/simpler look than chair feet.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Yeah, and I saw a flexy on AV123 with caps on the top too
http://www.av123forum.com/phot...owphoto.php?photo=2257

Those looks slightly awkward to me though, and I think it would look a little better with a shorter end cap.

EDIT: Oh, and I don't know if this would be worth the trouble for other people, but if you want some of these caps for your own project, send a self-addressed stamped uhhh... envelope I guess... to me and I'll send you some back (since I'll have 86 extra).

Through summer, this should be the address
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...an+anyone+explain+this

 

[The Boston Dangler]

i was just re-reading the thread. am i always this incoherent?

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler
hmmm, what do you need the router for?

nevermind that this was answered a couple posts above, but what a stupid question! go back to where you came from, noob!

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler
i was just re-reading the thread. am i always this incoherent?

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler
hmmm, what do you need the router for?

nevermind that this was answered a couple posts above, but what a stupid question! go back to where you came from, noob!

:laugh:

 

[Squisher]

Just how much experience do you have using a router? Nevertheless, you are going to want to pick up some practice wood back at the hardware store. Your biggest issues will be breakout at the end of your cuts. This actually this is most easily gotten around by something you didn't want to do, rounding the corners, so you will have one continuous cut going around. You can round the corners with nothing more than electric sander with some 60 grit. Finish sanders are really cheap and I've abused mine for 35 years. Don't worry if you have some chipping because you are going with a painted finish and can always fix your mistakes with some high performance wood filler. The high performance stuff is more like bondo.

Your speaker bases look like Black Lacquer. Since you want to replicate their finish, one way to do it is to use automotive paint in spray cans. I would use a sandable primer (note: the sandable primer needs to be recommended for use on wood).

I also recommend a forstner bit for your drilling. The best way keep everything aligned would be to stack up the boards and clamp them together for drilling, but with the drill presses you have access to this might not be easily done (big heavy cumbersome assemblies with clamps sticking out). So, what I would do is to get a circle template and draw the circle you going drill or maybe a little bigger on the wood, this way you'll be able to see if you're spot on with your drilling. You can force the bit sideways a little while you are drilling with the pilot point. Once you start cutting the full diameter there is no way to move sideways.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I have about 1 minute of experience from middle school, and that was a table mounted router
I've watched some youtube videos...

I do have those four extra MDF pieces that I have no real plans for. I could totally wreck all of them and not care at all. That gives me 32 sides to practice on with the exact same material the real shelves will be made out of. I also have one extra "real" shelf that I could totally screw up on.

Yes, those are black lacquer. Replicating the finish would be awesome, but that's not quite something I'm worried about yet. I'm sure I'll use this thread again for advice once I get that far
I definitely don't have the space to do any serious painting here.

As for the drilling, I might check in there tomorrow again just to see what they have available for drill bits and router bits. I found out that transporting the stuff might be Friday at the earliest now. If they have a standard 3/4" wood drill bit and a router bit with a bearing on it, would it be a bad move to just try to use those? I don't want to be too cheap with this, but there's the potential that I could get away without buying bits for either tool. If I had a router or drill of my own, I'd feel better about buying the bits, but as it is now, these would be used for this one project and then I'd have no way to use them in the future. I get that it's important to have the right tool for the job, but if I have basic bits available that are adequate for the job, would it make that much of a difference to buy new ones?
If I do go in there, it there any easy way to check what kind of shape the bits are in, taking into account my lack of experience?

 

[Squisher]

What do mean by standard wood drill bit? A spade bit?

If so, you'll have to go very slow to get your locations right.

I'm not so worried about chipping (if you use a scrap piece to backup your work) because you'll be covering the hole with a washer.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I'd assume something like this
http://www.homedepot.com/webap...53&productId=100492457

Yeah, I'm not too worried about the actual appearance of the holes since they'll be out of sight. My main concern is lining things up correctly.

Let's say that I'm off by a bit on some of these, would it be feasible to use my dremel tool with a sanding attachment to expand the hole / adjust the hole location?

 

[43st]

I would not use any bits from a shop such as this.. only if you know they regularly have them professionally sharpened. Do NOT use a spade bit on any project where you're concerned about the final finish of the hole... you'd get better results from a hungry rat than a spade bit.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I dunno... I've had pretty abysmal results with rats before...

http://forums.anandtech.com/me...=y&keyword1=rat+bit+me
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...=y&keyword1=rat+bit+me
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...=y&keyword1=rat+bit+me

 

[DisgruntledVirus]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
I'd assume something like this
http://www.homedepot.com/webap...53&productId=100492457

Yeah, I'm not too worried about the actual appearance of the holes since they'll be out of sight. My main concern is lining things up correctly.

Let's say that I'm off by a bit on some of these, would it be feasible to use my dremel tool with a sanding attachment to expand the hole / adjust the hole location?

I'd use these over spades any day

Forstner>bits I linked to> previous ones I linked to (the circular saw blade type one)>spade IMO

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: DisgruntledVirus

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
I'd assume something like this
http://www.homedepot.com/webap...53&productId=100492457

Yeah, I'm not too worried about the actual appearance of the holes since they'll be out of sight. My main concern is lining things up correctly.

Let's say that I'm off by a bit on some of these, would it be feasible to use my dremel tool with a sanding attachment to expand the hole / adjust the hole location?

I'd use these over spades any day

Forstner>bits I linked to> previous ones I linked to (the circular saw blade type one)>spade IMO

Alright... I'll get a good bit. I'm thinking it might be tough to gind a regular drill bit of that type in 3/4" size though?

Thanks for making me spend more money, AT :laugh:

Ok, so woodworking is postpones until Saturday probably so I can get the proper tools.

I'll try to get a Forstner bit. I saw some around, so I do know they're available locally.

Now, I guess I'll get a router bit as well.

Since this is my first bit purchasing, are these universally sized for use with any tools, or do I have to find out specifics on the tools to find the appropriately compatible bits?

I know router bits come with different shank sizes at least. Do I need to ask if the routers will accept either shank size, or is that generally universal?

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Let's say that I'm off by a bit on some of these, would it be feasible to use my dremel tool with a sanding attachment to expand the hole / adjust the hole location?

It is feasible to elongate a hole but not with a sanding cartridge roll. What you'll want to get is a rotary rasp.

Text

I hope you understand it is projects such as this that allows us men to have an excuse to buy new tools.

Even with that rasp, stock removal will be slow so getting the holes where you want will make your life a lot easier. Going oversize with the holes might be easier, but you risk the chance that you'll expose a hole if you are too far off.

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
I know router bits come with different shank sizes at least. Do I need to ask if the routers will accept either shank size, or is that generally universal?

Routers and drills both come with various chuck sizes. Drills use a variable chuck, so almost any bit smaller than the maximum should do (there is a limit to how small a bit most drill chucks can hold). Routers IIRC, typically have collets, which are much more restricted in what size shaft they can grip. Many routers do have more than one size of collet available, so you need to check with the shop before buying.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Thanks guys

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Thanks guys

It's good to be able to pay back someone who has dispensed so much good advice.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Thanks guys

It's good to be able to pay back someone who has dispensed so much good advice.

Well thanks

I went to check out the craftshop again on my way home from work. They have spade bits for wood drilling, but I didn't see any other options in 3/4" diameter.

For router bits, they had a lot of options. More than one in the sizes I was considering even... so I think maybe I'll skip getting a router bit (at least until I'm sure what size I want to use, and then I'd consider it if there aren't any that are cutting well at the shop).

They didn't have any blank safety tests for me to take though
No study guides or lists of topics either.
The dude at the desk said that he could read the questions to me and I could take it that way heh.

I'm kind of worried about this test now.

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
...They didn't have any blank safety tests for me to take though
No study guides or lists of topics either.
The dude at the desk said that he could read the questions to me and I could take it that way heh.
I'm kind of worried about this test now.

Try to find a student who has a class in the shop; perhaps you can get an idea of the test material from him.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
...They didn't have any blank safety tests for me to take though
No study guides or lists of topics either.
The dude at the desk said that he could read the questions to me and I could take it that way heh.
I'm kind of worried about this test now.

Try to find a student who has a class in the shop; perhaps you can get an idea of the test material from him.

Well apparently I can take it several times if I don't pass the first time. I might just go in tonight and take the test orally to see what's on it

1. Take it once and fail
2. Study
3. Take it again
...
4. Profit

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
I know router bits come with different shank sizes at least. Do I need to ask if the routers will accept either shank size, or is that generally universal?

Routers and drills both come with various chuck sizes. Drills use a variable chuck, so almost any bit smaller than the maximum should do (there is a limit to how small a bit most drill chucks can hold). Routers IIRC, typically have collets, which are much more restricted in what size shaft they can grip. Many routers do have more than one size of collet available, so you need to check with the shop before buying.

Yeah, router bits usually come with 1/4" or 1/2" shanks with 1/4" comprising probably 95% of bits.

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
...They didn't have any blank safety tests for me to take though
No study guides or lists of topics either.
The dude at the desk said that he could read the questions to me and I could take it that way heh.
I'm kind of worried about this test now.

Try to find a student who has a class in the shop; perhaps you can get an idea of the test material from him.

Well apparently I can take it several times if I don't pass the first time. I might just go in tonight and take the test orally to see what's on it

1. Take it once and fail
2. Study
3. Take it again
...
4. Profit

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Sounds like a plan...

 

[CallMeJoe]

Originally posted by: Squisher

Originally posted by: CallMeJoe
...

Yeah, router bits usually come with 1/4" or 1/2" shanks with 1/4" comprising probably 95% of bits.

Thanks. I should have thought to mention collet sizes.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Ok, woodworking is mostly done and I have all my fingers left.

First gf and I went to Home Depot again and I got a Forstner Bit.
I walked to a local place yesterday hoping to get one easily from there, but the guy had no idea what a Forstner Bit was and recommended a spade bit.

So anyway, I got a 3/4" size and after I drilled the first hole, I made sure that the threaded rod made it through ok. It fits through just fine, so as long as I have my holes lined up closely enough, I should be in good shape.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/YOyoYOhowsDAjello/Bit1.jpg
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/YOyoYOhowsDAjello/Bit2.jpg

I was there about 6 and a half hours... yes, I took it slow

The drill press was first. The underside of the base plate made clamping difficult. I wish there had been more decent sized scrap material to allow me to make a better setup. A guy there was nice enough to let me use some of his personal scrap material to make a decent clamping setup. I didn't take a picture of it, but it was basically just a decent sized piece of plywood clamped to the metal plate. I was able to easily clamp the MDF to the plywood then.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...DAjello/DrillPress.jpg

The Forstner worked well. There were a few cases where at the end I had some thin scrap layers that didn't cut cleanly, but overall it worked quite well.

Holes were drilled in the 4 trial shelves first and then the 12 main shelves.

That took about 2 hours. The hardest part was lining up the drill bit each time. The laser indicator on the drill was broken, so unfortunately that was not an option. I considered making a guide / jig for myself to line up the boards, but I know the boards are not all identical in size. Had I done the drilling in relation to the outside edges, the holes would not line up. When I used my paper template to make the original marks, I tried to center the template in the left/right direction and lined the template up with the front edge of each shelf.

I wasn't able to do any test fitting yet since I only had one threaded rod with me, but just stacking them up roughly made it seem like everything was pretty close at first inspection. I'll know more tomorrow if I can get the assembly started.

For the edges, I managed to rig up a router for table usage. I probably mounted it wrong, but it worked just fine. All that was going to be keeping it in place was a twist tightening ring below the table, so I stacked up some scrap wood and clamped it onto a stand underneath it so it wouldn't go anywhere even if the tightening ring failed.
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...owsDAjello/Router1.jpg
The router motor I used did not seem to have any holes / attachment options on it to secure it in any other way.

I was able to clamp on a couple of my 20"x20" shelves to the table and use that to support my work at the correct height.
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...owsDAjello/Router2.jpg

I'm very glad I decided to table mount it and do it that way vs. a handheld router. I felt like I had a lot of control over what I was doing and even managed to do some pretty decent work on the corners.

I decided not to buy my own router bit since the craftshop had a number of carbide tipped bits in the sizes I wanted. I tried a few sizes on a piece of scrap plywood and decided on a 1/4" roundover.

Getting the height right on the table was the toughest part. I probably messed around with different bits and mounting options for an hour before I was satisfied at the results I was getting. I sacrificed 1 edge of a 20"x20" test shelf for the final testing of heights. Overall I don't think I "screwed up" any of the shelves during the drilling or routing process.

That means I should have an extra full sized shelf that can potentially be eliminated due to poor hole alignment.

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...OhowsDAjello/Done1.jpg

I only took one picture of the finished stack, so here's a semi-closeup of the corners.
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...OhowsDAjello/Done2.jpg

I still need to do a little sanding on the edges to get them smoother from the original cutting to size from Home Depot. Also, a couple of the edges have some paint on them from the original labeling of the MDF stack at Home Depot.

My plan is to get a little sandpaper for tomorrow and just do that by hand, since I don't want to spend $6 an hour to do it at the craftshop. Plus, I imagine that it's easier to mess up quickly on a disc or belt sander

So yes, I paid $38.75 to spend the day at the craftshop and use their tools, but that meant that I didn't have to buy a router bit, safety goggles, or ear protection. I got to use the proper tools (for the most part), and although I did my best to clean up with a broom and dustpan afterwards, I didn't really have to worry about cleaning up all that mess as I would have had I done it in my apartment

 

[CallMeJoe]

Looks good!

Now to wear yourself out, hand sanding all those edges...