Flexy Rack

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

What would be the purpose of additional holes in the wings?

 

[The Boston Dangler]

you could use them for another step in angle. i don't think this approach would yield a large degree of deflection (a.k.a. not bendy enough). the greatest freedom would come from 3 4-post columns, sharing the 2 front-center posts. this would be totally adjustable with components installed.

second thought:
the same could be achieved with 3 3-post columns

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Yeah, this would be the easiest way to do it, right?

http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y..._up_cropped_Top_v4.png

I think I'd have to make the shelves a bit deeper though considering three of my components are 18" deep + the depth of connectors

 

[The Boston Dangler]

do you have a cost comparison between that and the original?

 

[43st]

Seems like a cool idea. Maybe consider notching the boards, so you could loosen the nuts and reconfigure without un-threading the entire system. You could even make some notches for dressing in your cables.

I'd also look into a birch ply. or similar, but that may be over the budget.

EDIT: quick sketch

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler
do you have a cost comparison between that and the original?

I haven't even done a full cost estimate of items to do the original, but I would assume maybe a $20-$25 difference to buy another rod and buy more MDF needed to make the shelves deeper?

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: 43st
Seems like a cool idea. Maybe consider notching the boards, so you could loosen the nuts and reconfigure without un-threading the entire system. You could even make some notches for dressing in your cables.

I'd also look into a birch ply. or similar, but that may be over the budget.

EDIT: quick sketch

Based on what I've read about the structural integrity of the system, I'd predict that notches would greatly increase the "flexy factor" to the point where it would be in danger of swaying a lot... and maybe even collapsing over time if there's a real way for the rods to pop out in this case.

What do you guys who have built one before think?

Also, that rod configuration you showed was what my gf suggested first but I told her that I thought the middle shelves would be seriously compromised with only two rods supporting them.

 

[43st]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Originally posted by: 43st
Seems like a cool idea. Maybe consider notching the boards, so you could loosen the nuts and reconfigure without un-threading the entire system. You could even make some notches for dressing in your cables.

I'd also look into a birch ply. or similar, but that may be over the budget.

EDIT: quick sketch

Based on what I've read about the structural integrity of the system, I'd predict that notches would greatly increase the "flexy factor" to the point where it would be in danger of swaying a lot... and maybe even collapsing over time if there's a real way for the rods to pop out in this case.

What do you guys who have built one before think?

Also, that rod configuration you showed was what my gf suggested first but I told her that I thought the middle shelves would be seriously compromised with only two rods supporting them.

Indeed.. one would need to carefully torque and double nut both sides with a slot design. Not for most people.

As for the center rods.. I think that would really depend on your rod thickness and MDF thickness. If you're using 3/4" threaded rod and 1" or 1-1/4" MDF then it would be most likely be fine. Three or more points would certainly be better though.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I've been planning on 5/8" for both rod thickness and MDF thickness, so I think I'd have to be worried

3/4" rod and 1"-1-1/4" MDF would probably double my cost and also would exacerbate the height problem for ventilation.

 

[Thraxen]

I'm interested in this project as well and would like to see a listing of all the parts you used when done. I'm looking to upgrade my speakers before the end of the year and have run into a problem. The center speaker I'm looking at is just short of 9.5 inches tall and it's surprisingly difficult to find a TV stand where the first shelf (the 2nd down if you count the top) has enough room for a speaker of that size. I currently have a DLP TV so mounting the TV on the wall or getting one of those stands that has the VESA mounts for flat panels is not an option. I looked at those Salamander racks and they would work, but they are outrageously expensive and not even close to being worth the price.

So maybe building my own is the best option? If anyone has any suggestions let me know.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Hi Thraxen. Hopefully this week I'll get a chance to go to Home Depot / Menards again and look for parts.
First I have to find out what design I'll use (I'm leaning toward the last one I posted with 3 x 3 post) to determine how much MDF I'll need and how it will need to be cut as well as how many of each piece of hardware I'll need.

If I can't find what I'm looking for (besides the MDF) locally or for a good price, I'll probably be buying from McMaster-Carr.
This Flexy guide has part numbers for a standard 36" rack
http://www.jetcom.org/~jsb/flexirack.php

I too would have a hard time fitting my center channel into a standard stand of some sort
http://www.av123.com//index.ph...m_virtuemart&Itemid=37
Dimensions: 12" H x 10.5" D x 25 7/16" W

Considering the current price on that and RS850
http://www.av123.com//index.ph...m_virtuemart&Itemid=37
I'd certainly buy it over again if I had to replace them now


EDIT: I'm trying to calculate my costs now. Turns out I need more than 50 of several of these items so it's going to cost more than I expected (isn't that always the case?)

The Washers listed above are stainless steet "Aeronautics Specification (AN), Federal Specifications (FED), National Aerospace Standards (NAS)" grade and cost $12.43 per pack of 25. I'm assuming I can use standard steel regular grade ones, eh?

I can get part #90126A035 for $2.85 per pack of 36. Does that look like it would work?
http://www.mcmaster.com/# (put in part 90126A035)

Is there some reason the washers should be stainless steel?

This would save me $31.59

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Proposed hardware cost

Rods - 7 of part 90034A035
= $30.66

Hex Nuts - 2 of part 90473A233
= $20.24

Acorn Nuts - 1 of part 90532A300
= $7.47

Neoprene Washer - 2 of part 90133A056
= $27.54

Flat Washer - 2 of part 90126A035
= $5.70 (would be $37.29 with the washers from the linked guide)

Chair Feet - 1 of part 2517T72
= $5.19

The total is $96.80 + whatever shipping costs (I'm not seeing a shipping estimate?)

Note that this does not include MDF cost nor any sort of MDF finishing / painting items.

 

[AirAlex]

How about these end caps? 9753K47 Pliable Vinyl

 

[spidey07]

I did one many years ago (as in a decade or two). Do yourself a favor and get birch plywood and good stain and learn how to stain properly. I also added some interesting trim around all the plywood with finish nails (nail tap then fill with wood putty before staining). The birch is more expensive but it looks really good and is very strong. I also did 4 corners for the rods for support, you don't want to have the rods too close to the corners. I'm sure there are guides for that.

Don't forget to match the threads on the nuts to whatever bolt/rod you're using and don't get nylon locking nuts, just regular ones.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: AirAlex
How about these end caps? 9753K47 Pliable Vinyl

As an alternative to the Chair Feet?

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: spidey07
I did one many years ago (as in a decade or two). Do yourself a favor and get birch plywood and good stain and learn how to stain properly. I also added some interesting trim around all the plywood with finish nails (nail tap then fill with wood putty before staining). The birch is more expensive but it looks really good and is very strong. I also did 4 corners for the rods for support, you don't want to have the rods too close to the corners. I'm sure there are guides for that.

Don't forget to match the threads on the nuts to whatever bolt/rod you're using and don't get nylon locking nuts, just regular ones.

Unless I can get something close enough to reasonably match the red-tinted rosewood in my speakers, I'd rather not add another wood style in the mix.
Would birch plywood be worth it over MDF if I just wanted to make the stand black? In my dreams I'd learn how to do a piano finish and take the time to do that, but I think that looks pretty advanced for a first attempt

I'm using "11" thread for all the parts.

 

[AirAlex]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Originally posted by: AirAlex
How about these end caps? 9753K47 Pliable Vinyl

As an alternative to the Chair Feet?

Oops. Yeah as an alternative to chair feet. That's what I was originally looking at when I was looking at parts for my potential flexy build.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: AirAlex

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Originally posted by: AirAlex
How about these end caps? 9753K47 Pliable Vinyl

As an alternative to the Chair Feet?

Oops. Yeah as an alternative to chair feet. That's what I was originally looking at when I was looking at parts for my potential flexy build.

Too bad they come in 100 packs

 

[spidey07]

If you're just doing black then the wood won't matter. On the threads there are metric and imperial - just make sure they match.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I'm almost positive I have it right.

The items are all listed as 5/8" - 11

 

[The Boston Dangler]

i'd like to pre-order the dug777 a/v rack in orange, plz.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

I might have to break the original out
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Y...sDAjello/dugframe1.jpg

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

from chi.sales@mcmaster.com
date Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 7:11 AM
subject RE: Shipping estimate
mailed-by mcmaster.com

hide details 7:11 AM (2 hours ago)

Sean,

The estimated shipping charge for these items to your address is $6.50.
Customers are invoiced actual shipping charges from our carriers,
therefore charges aren't listed online until an order actually processes.

Elizabeth

:Q wow that's cheap

 

[The Boston Dangler]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

from chi.sales@mcmaster.com
date Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 7:11 AM
subject RE: Shipping estimate
mailed-by mcmaster.com

hide details 7:11 AM (2 hours ago)

Sean,

The estimated shipping charge for these items to your address is $6.50.
Customers are invoiced actual shipping charges from our carriers,
therefore charges aren't listed online until an order actually processes.

Elizabeth

:Q wow that's cheap

shockingly, infuriatingly cheap

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Originally posted by: The Boston Dangler

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello

from chi.sales@mcmaster.com
date Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 7:11 AM
subject RE: Shipping estimate
mailed-by mcmaster.com

hide details 7:11 AM (2 hours ago)

Sean,

The estimated shipping charge for these items to your address is $6.50.
Customers are invoiced actual shipping charges from our carriers,
therefore charges aren't listed online until an order actually processes.

Elizabeth

:Q wow that's cheap

shockingly, infuriatingly cheap

I was expecting like $25 minimum for shipping. I haven't priced out what the hardware would cost locally, but taking the time and effort to find all the right parts seems like it's not worth it. I'll probably end up ordering the hardware tomorrow. I think the thing I'm still trying to figure out is what kind of MDF / Wood to get.

I'll probably end up with 5/8" or 3/4" MDF. I need to figure out how much of that I need too, but that won't prevent me from ordering all the other stuff online first.